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Unicorn Legwarmers

Legwarmers or Armwarmers
I designed these "Sweet Taffy Legwarmers" with ballerinas on my mind. I pictured them wearing crocheted legwarmers as they practice their tendu, plie or pirouette. But let's not limit ourselves to who can wear these legwarmers and how. People that feel cold in the fall, winter, and spring (such as myself) can enjoy crocheted "legwarmers", or wear these as "armwarmers 😊 ".

This pattern is not for utter beginners. However, if you are a little skilled and adventurous crocheter and if you watch my video, you may be able to work on this project even if you don't have a whole lot of experience. The video is so detailed that a few less experienced crocheters may find it helpful and embrace it as a push forward to try something new.

Below you will find two patterns - one for very slim legs (mine, LOL) and one for a newborn baby. However, you can make these for anyone. If it comes to a width, first, you should crochet enough chain stitches to wrap around the widest area of your leg (upper part, or a calf). Then count them and make sure the total number is a multiple of 4 (such as 24, 36, 48, 56, 60, etc.) For example, if you make a chain of 62 sts than your nearest number to work with would be 60 sts. It is better to make it one or two stitches smaller because the legwarmers will stretch. I started legwarmers for myself with 50 stitches, but it would have been better to make 48 chain stitches to start with. It would eliminate the extra 2 stitches I had to "get rid of" when I started the design after the ribbing. I started the legwarmers for a newborn baby with 30 sts. However, to make it easier for myself I should have started it with 28 sts (for slimmer legs), or with 32 sts (for chubbier legs). Here too, I had to eliminate 2 sts when I started to crochet the design part. I will write the Newborn pattern with 28 stitches, to make it easier on you. If you want to make it for an older child, then just add one or more extra 4-chain repeats.

For the length do this: measure a distance between the upper part and the ankle area, and crochet until you reach the desired length. If you would like your legwarmers to have a gathered look, then I would make few extra rows. Good luck and enjoy.

CLICK  HERE  4  VIDEO  4  RIGHTIES
CLICK  HERE  4  VIDEO  4  LEFTIES


If you'd shop yarn on-line via my affiliate links below, I'd get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
Michaels online store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

Size:
Adult
Upper leg measurement: 14" (stretches to 16", and holds OK on tights)
Length: approx. 26"
Newborn
Upper leg measurement: 7" (stretches to 8", and holds OK on tights)
Length: 6"

Materials:
1 ball of yarn that is lightweight #3; I used Lion Brand Yarns, Mandala, Unicorn color; 100% acrylic; 5.3 oz/150 g; 590 yds/540m (if you want to match up variegated colors, you will need 2 balls)
Hook size 5mm
Yarn needle
Scissors


Size:
Varies

Gauge:
4"x4" = 12 dc sts x 7 dc rows

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet
sc - single crochet
fpdc - crochet dc through front post of dc from prev. row
bpdc - crochet dc through back post of dc from prev. row
join - join with a slip stitch

Step-by-Step

Make 2

Foundation (according to video) - ch50, join

Work on your "ribbing":
Rnd 1           ch3 (counts as dc), then 1 dc into next 49 consecutive ch sts, join (total 50 sts)
Rnd 2-10      ch2 (counts as dc), then *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - 24x; then 1 fpdc, join to ch2  (total 50 sts)

Work on your pattern:
Rnd 11         ch3, then 3 dc in the same base as ch3 (4dc-cluster), skip 4 sts, 4 dc in 5th ch st, *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - repeat 10x = until last 4 sts, skip these 4 sts, join into ch3 (total 12 "4dc-clusters")
(Note: if you will make foundation with multiples of 4, then you will always skip only 3 sts and make 4 dc in 4th st)
Rnd 12        ch2, *[skip 3 sts, 1 dc in 4th st, ch2, 1 dc in first skipped st]* - repeat 11x OR until you have 3 sts left - skip these 3 sts, make 1 dc into the base of ch2 in the beginning of the row, ch2, then 1 dc into first skipped st and join into 2 chain sts (in the spot where first dc and ch2 meet)

Note: from now on you will repeat Rnd 13 & 14 until your desired length
Rnd 13       slip stitch into ch2 space; then start your first cluster with ch3, then 3 dc in the same base as ch3 (4dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - 11x; join (total 12 "4dc-clusters")
Rnd 14        ch2, *[skip 3 sts, 1 dc in 4th st, ch2, 1 dc in first skipped st]* - repeat 11x OR until you have 3 sts left - skip these 3 sts, make 1 dc into the base of ch2 in the beginning of the row, ch2, then 1 dc into first skipped st and join into 2 chain sts (in the spot where first dc and ch2 meet)

Repeat Rnd 13 & 15 as many times as needed.


Finishing:
After you finish your desired length, your last row should be the "criss-cross" row. To make the bottom flare out a little, first you will work your dc-cluster differently then finish with a tiny scalloped edge created by slip stitches, single crochet stitches and half double crochet stitches this way:

Rnd 1       slip stitch into ch2 space; then start your first cluster with ch3, then 4 dc in the same base as ch3 (5dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st, skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - alternate these 4- and 5-dc clusters to end; join (total 12 "dc-clusters")
Rnd 2       In 5-dc clusters make *[1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st]*; and in 4-dc clusters make *[1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, sl st]* - alternate to end         


LEGWARMERS FOR A NEWBORN

Make 2

Foundation (according to video) - ch28, join

Work on your "ribbing":
Rnd 1           ch3 (counts as dc), then 1 dc into next 27 consecutive ch sts, join (total 28 sts)
Rnd 2-5      ch2 (counts as dc), then *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - 13x; then 1 fpdc, join to ch2  (total 28 sts)

Work on your pattern:
Rnd 6         ch3, then 3 dc in the same base as ch3 (4dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - repeat 6x = until last 3 sts, skip these 3 sts, join into ch3 (total 7 "4dc-clusters")
(Note: if you will make foundation with multiples of 4, then you will always skip only 3 sts and make 4 dc in 4th st)
Rnd 7        ch2, *[skip 3 sts, 1 dc in 4th st, ch2, 1 dc in first skipped st]* - repeat 6x OR until you have 3 sts left - skip these 3 sts, make 1 dc into the base of ch2 in the beginning of the row, ch2, then 1 dc in first skipped st and join into 2 chain sts (in the spot where first dc and ch2 meet)

Note: from now on you will repeat Rnd 13 & 14 until your desired length
Rnd 8       slip stitch into ch2 space; then start your first cluster with ch3, then 3 dc in the same base as ch3 (4dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - 6x; join (total 7 "4dc-clusters")
Rnd 9        ch2, *[skip 3 sts, 1 dc in 4th st, ch2, 1 dc in first skipped st]* - repeat 6x OR until you have 3 sts left - skip these 3 sts, make 1 dc into the base of ch2 in the beginning of the row, ch2, then 1 dc in first skipped st and join into 2 chain sts (in the spot where first dc and ch2 meet)

Repeat Rnd 8 & 9 as 2x (or as many times as needed).

Finishing:
After you finish your desired length, your last row should be the "criss-cross" row. To make the bottom flare out a little, first you will work your dc-cluster differently then finish with a tiny scalloped edge created by slip stitches, single crochet stitches and half double crochet stitches this way:

Rnd 1       slip stitch into ch2 space; then start your first cluster with ch3, then 4 dc in the same base as ch3 (5dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st, skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - alternate these 4- and 5-dc clusters to end (you will finish with 5-dc cluster); join (total 7 "dc-clusters") - weave in all ends.   





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Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.