If you know how to knit in the round then these socks will be easy knit, because they are knitted in a very simple no-frills way. The color variation in the skein makes them look more "advanced" than they actually are. They are knitted with a "short rows technique", and they knit FAST. I had them done in about 4 hours, but for slower knitters, they can be done in a day (if you do not get distracted.)
I used super bulky yarn in acrylic/wool blend, and one size smaller knitting needles to make these socks slightly denser, thus warmer.
The socks are perfect for anyone that has a US shoe size 7.5 to 8, but if you are skilled, you can make them a little bigger or smaller with adjustments of plus-minus 2 to 6 stitches, and plus-minus several rows. For example, I will be knitting these socks for a man whose feet are narrow - so I will keep the number of 24 stitches, but I will knit several more rows between the heel and the toes - instead of 22 rows I will knit 30 rows.
In order to make them wider, you need to adjust your short rows and decreases. For each 2 extra stitches, you would make an extra short row (= on both sides of your knitting needle) while forming your heel, and 4 extra decreases in each row for your toes.
If you will make cuffs longer, or socks longer/bigger than this pattern, you will need more than 1 skein of yarn.
They are perfect for keeping toes warm while sitting by the fireplace, lounging around with friends, reading a book, knitting, crocheting or just relaxing when it is cold outside.
You can watch my video how I knit these socks, too:
Video for RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS
Video for LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS
If you watch my video, share your experience by writing a comment on my Facebook, or YouTube. Enjoy and keep your toes cozy inside these handmade thick socks. I'm already enjoying two pairs of socks similar to these.
Material:
- Yarn - 1 ball of Super Bulky #6; I used Lion Brand, Wool-Ease, Thick & Quick; 80% acrylic/20% wool; 106 yrd/97 m; 6 oz/170 g; color "Sequoia" - one ball for a US shoe size 7 or 8, a little more for a US shoe size 8+
- Long Knitting Needles - size #11 (8 mm)
- Double pointed needles (or circular needles) - size #11 (8 mm)
- Scissors
- Hook or Yarn needle for weaving in the ends
on knitting needles #11 (8 mm) - 2"x2" = 5 sts x 8 rows
US shoe size 7.5 to 8
Abbreviation:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
K2tog - knit two stitches together
SSK - slip slip and then knit them together through the back loop
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
Step-by-Step Directions:
Make 2.
Foundation:
cast on 24 stitches on long knitting needle (or circular needles)
The Cuff
Row 1 K24 - then move your stitches onto 3 double pointed knitting needles and distribute the stitches evenly
Row 2 without twisting your knit connect them into a circle; K24
Row 3 K24
Row 4-13 *[K1, P1]* - 12x
Row 14-15 K24
Forming The Heel
Before you start knitting your heel distribute stitches as such:
- on the needle #1(your next needle you will be knitting on) place 12 stitches
- on the needle #2 place 6 sts
- on the needle #3 place 6 sts.
If you are knitting on circular needles - place a marker between 12th and 13th sts - work with first 12 stitches only, ignor the rest of your stitches.
Row 16 (RS) K11; leave 12th stitch on your left needle and turn your work to knit on wrong side
Row 17 (WS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front slip 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P9 (to 1 st before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 18 (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K8 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 19 (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P7 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 20 (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K6 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 21 (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P5 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 22 (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K4 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 23 (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 8 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P3 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Now we will start adding stitches on both, the right and wrong, sides back again
Row 24 (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 8 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K3 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 8th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 9th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 9th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 25 (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P4 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 8th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 9th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 9th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 26 (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K5 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 9th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 10th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 10th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 27 (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P6 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 9th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 10th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 10th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 28 (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K7 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 10th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 11st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 11st st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 29 (WS - now you have 1 sts on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P8 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 10th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 11st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 11st st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 30 (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K9 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 11st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 12th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 12th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 31 (WS - now you have all sts on one needle only) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P10 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 11st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 12th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 12th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
The Foot Area
From now on you will work on the right side in the round again
Row 32 sl st first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, K11; now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your 12th and 13th stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 13th st together; K11
Row 33 now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your last knitted and your 1st stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 1st st together, K23
Row 34-55 K24
Toe Area
Row 56 *[K2tog, K8, SSK]* - 2x
Row 57 K20
Row 58 *[K2tog, K6, SSK]* - 2x
Row 59 K16
Row 60 *[K2tog, K4, SSK]* - 2x
Row 61 (optional) - K12
Finishing:
Move stitches from needle #2 onto needle #3. Use Kitchener stitch to seam two sets of live stitches (6 sts & 6 sts) invisibly. See my sock video how to do the Kitchener stitch.
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