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Socks With Pocket - Women US Shoe Size 6-7

Many moons ago I knitted a "Mousie" - finger puppet for my daughter. After she grew up Mousie was just laying around and no one played with it anymore. 

Then I remembered that not too long ago I saw an image of socks with a pocket. The pocket was for a tiny toy. I thought that would be a great idea to make these socks, insert Mousie inside the pocket for my (now adult) daughter and send it to her. She is a kid at heart and I thought it would make a great gift for her birthday. 

I thought that a slightly thicker yarn would be the best too - the socks would be for lounging in the bed when it is cold outside and she'd feel just relaxing, and reading books. Make a great gift for the winter holidays. If you are an experienced knitter you could make socks of any size with any yarn and adjust the pocket accordingly.

I have a big stash of KnitPicks "Bare" yarn, so that's the yarn that I chose to work with on these socks. 


Material: 


Size:
  • Length of the sole (heel to toe): ~8” (you can make it longer if you chose so)
  • Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is ~9" (stretched)
  • Sole width: 4.5” flat;

Gouge:

On knitting needles #5 (3.75mm) - 1” x 1” = 6 sts x 8 rows (in stockinette stitch)


Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively


Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2.

Foundation: cast on 54 stitches

  • The Cuff
Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, join stitches into a circle

Rnd 2-16      *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Note: you can make your cuff longer if you want. 
Rnd 17-22    K54

  • Pocket #1
Start knitting back and forth, count rows starting at 1

LINING:
Row 1           K52 (2 sts left), turn
Row 2           P12, turn
Row 3           K12, turn
Row 4           P12, turn

Repeat Rows 3 and 4  four more times (Rows 5-12), do not BO these stitches - leave the stitches on DPN needle, fasten off yarn, leave a 1-foot long tail

POCKET & SOCK CONTINUED: rows correspond with the pocket rows, start knitting in the round
Rnd 1           with about a foot long tail (later on the tail will be needed for sewing up the side) CO 12 sts (outside pocket part); join unfinished Row 1 by K2
Rnd 2           K40, join stitches into the circle, (outside pocket part) - *[K1, P1]* - 6x, K2
Rnd 3-5        K40, *[K1, P1]* - 6x, K2
Rnd 6-13      K54, Note - outside pocket part has one extra row

Connect the lining part with the outside pocket part

Rnd 14         K40, K2tog from both needles - 12x line up 12 stitches from both needles (lining and outside pocket) to combine them as such - insert working knitting needle into first st from the outside part, then insert the same working needle into first st from the lining part and knit these two stitches together - repeat 11 more times, K2
Rnd 15-24    K54

  • Pocket #2 (on the opposite side)
Start knitting back and forth, count rows starting at 1

LINING:
Row 1           K28 (26 sts left), turn
Row 2           P12, turn
Row 3           K12, turn
Row 4           P12, turn

Repeat Rows 3 and 4  four more times (Rows 5-12), do not BO these stitches - leave the stitches on DPN needle, fasten off yarn, leave a 1-foot long tail for sewing one side

POCKET & SOCK CONTINUED: rows correspond with the pocket rows, start knitting in the round
Rnd 1           with about a foot long tail (later on the tail will be needed for sewing up the side) CO 12 sts (outside pocket part); join unfinished Row 1 by K14 (Note: watch my video for a little trick how to make sure there is not a big gap when you are joining the row into a circle)
Rnd 2           K28, join stitches into the circle, (outside pocket part) - *[K1, P1]* - 6x, K14
Rnd 3-5        K28, *[K1, P1]* - 6x, K14
Rnd 6-13      K54, Note - outside pocket part has one extra row

Connect the lining part with the outside pocket part

Rnd 14         K28, line up 12 stitches from both needles (lining and outside pocket) to combine them as such - insert working knitting needle into first st from the outside part, then insert the same working needle into first st from the lining part and knit these two stitches together - repeat 11 more times), K14
Rnd 15-24    K54
  • The Heel Flap
If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needles #1 and #2 - 10 sts each, needle #3 - 8 sts. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided to 14 + 14 between your magic loops.

Row 21-26      Work on your first 14 sts only back and forth (NOT in the round) - *[K1, P1]* - 7x

  • Turning The Heel (row by row)
Keep working your sock back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.

Row 1     (RS) sl. 1st st, K7, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2     (WS) sl. 1st st, P3, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 3     (RS) sl. 1st st, K4, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4     (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5     (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, (0 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6     (WS) sl. 1st st, P6, P2tog, (0 sts left on the needle), turn

  • The Gusset (knit in the round)
Note: you will work from now on RS only in the round.

You should finish with 8 sts on your working needle, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. You will proceed as such (starting with Rnd 1 again):

Rnd 1             K8, PU 5, K14, PU 5
Rnd 2             K11, K2tog, K14, SSK, K3
Rnd 3             K30
Rnd 4             K10, K2tog, K14, SSK, K2
Rnd 5             K28
Rnd 6             K9, K2tog, K14,  Note: This is the end of your row. We will start a new row after this point. If you are knitting on DPNs reshuffle your stitches to N1 (first 10 stitches), then split your 14 sts between N2 and N3

  • The Foot Part
Rnd 7             SSK, K1 (Note: add these two stitches to N1), K24 (total 26 sts)
Rnd 8-12        K26
Rnd 13           (N1) K12; (N2) K2tog, K5; (N3) K5, SSK; (total 24 sts)
Rnd 14-15      K24
Note: To make your socks a little longer add 1+ more rows.
 
  • The Toe Part
Let's start with Rnd 1 again.

Rnd 1           *[K2tog, K8, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 2          K20
Rnd 3           *[K2tog, K6, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 4          K16
Rnd 5           *[K2tog, K4, SSK]* - 2x (total 12 sts)

  • To Finish Each Sock:
In order to close your toe gap with Kitchener stitch, you need 6 stitches lined up with the other 6 stitches. If knitting with DPNs you may have first 6 sts on the first needle already, but you need to place the next 6 sts (from needles #2 and #3) on another needle. Cut off about 1/2 a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. 


Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.
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Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.