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SOCKS FOR 10 PLUS INCH FOOT - WITH CAST ON 64 STITCHES

My daughter asked me for another pair of socks for a friend. I decided to use my leftover sock yarn - all in all, the leftovers came up to about a little less than 2 balls (2 different kinds of yarn).
My daughter told me that the shoe size of this young lady is 11. Since they are living very far from me and didn't have measurements of my daughter's friend's feet, I had to do some research on how approximately long these socks need to be. And I just second-guessed how wide the socks could most likely be. After much of thinking and poking around the internet, I decided to start socks on 64 sts. The socks are knitted like the "Simple Socks For Gentlemen - Shoe Size 13" - however, I tweaked the number of rows and decreases a bit, and changed the decreases in the toe area a little (made it more round instead of angular.)
Oh yes and don't forget to check my YouTube Channel also - plenty of other detailed videos there.

In the meantime knit some socks for your daughters, sons, other family members, friends... If you need help, see the video for reference. More videos will be posted on my Youtube channel in the future.
(If you see any error on this page - contact me via social media on the left - txs)

SOME HELPFUL VIDEOS:

Material:
  • MC - 1 & 1/4 leftover ball of Patons, KROY Socks; 75% Washable Wool - 25% Nylon; 166 yds (152 m); 1.75 oz (50 gr), color: Blue Striped Rag - total yarn usage approx 200 m
  • CC - A leftover ball of Drops Design, FABEL Uni Colour, Superwash Treated Sock Wool; 75% Wool - 25% Polyamide; 224 yds (205 m); 1.8 oz (50 gr), color: medium blue #103
  • DPNs, or long Circulars Knitting Needles #2 (2.75 mm) - if you knit loosely then 2.5mm needles
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle (for Kitchener Stitch & for weaving in the tails)

Size:
  • Shoe size: ~ US size 10-11
  • Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is ~4.5"(unstretched) to ~10" (stretched)
  • Ribbing (Cuff) Height: 5.5”
  • Heel Flap: ~2.25"
  • Sole width: 4” flat; (circumference is ~ 8”)
  • Length of the sole heel to toe: ~10” (you can make it longer if you chose so)

Gouge (stockinette stitch):
  • on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 8 sts x 11 rows

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively


Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2.

Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 64 stitches


The Cuff

I knitted the initial 7 rows with CC yarn, then I switched to MC yarn.

Rnd 1-7          (CC) *[K1, P1]* - to the end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle

Rnd 8-50      (MC) *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff about 5.5" long.
Note: Do not cut off your MC yarn, you will continue with it after you are finished with your heel flap and turning heel.


The Heel Flap

For the heel flap, I used CC yarn.
If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needle #1 -32 sts, needles #2 and #3 - 16 sts each. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided into 32 + 32 between your magic loops. Use markers if needed.

Row 1-20      Work on your first 32 sts only back and forth (NOT in the round) - *[K1, P1]* - to the end (of each row)
Note: This heel is not reinforced with slip stitches thus only 20 rows.


Turning The Heel (row by row)

Keep working your sock back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.

Row 1     (RS) sl. 1st st, K17, SSK, K1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2     (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 3     (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4     (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5     (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6     (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7     (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8     (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9     (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10   (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11   (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12   (WS) sl. 1st st, P15, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 13   (RS) sl. 1st st, K16, SSK, turn
Row 14   (WS) sl. 1st st, P16 to last 2 sts , P2tog, (total 18 sts on the needle)


The Gusset
 (round by round)

Note: you will work from now on RS only in the round. Use MC from now on until the toe area.

You should finish with 18 sts on your needle, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. You will proceed as such:
  • turn your sock sideways and pick up 13 stitches along the first side using a knitting needle and your MC color yarn; 
  • then K18 (the "turning the heel stitches")
  • pick up another 13 sts along the other side of the flap
  • then K32 sts - you should have now 76 stitches on your needles, distributed as such: N1(this will be the BEGINNING of the row) - 13 sts (= first side of the flap); N2 - 18 sts (from turning the heel); N3 - 13 sts (= second side of the flap); N4 - 36 sts (top of the foot
Note: If you are knitting on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you are using circular needles insert markers between the 13-18-13-36 sts to keep track of your work.
Now we have to decrease some stitches on both sides of your flap to get back to 64 sts total on our needles - we will do that by decreasing while working on our gusset.

Let's start with Rnd 1 on the side using MC (from the cuff)

Rnd 1        (N1) SSK, K11; (N2) K18; (N3) K11, K2tog; (N4) K32 (74)
Rnd 2        K74
Rnd 3        (N1) SSK, K10; (N2) K18; (N3) K10, K2tog; (N4) K32 (72)
Rnd 4        K72
Rnd 5        (N1) SSK, K9; (N2) K18; (N3) K9, K2tog; (N4) K32 (70)
Rnd 6        K70
Rnd 7        (N1) SSK, K8; (N2) K18; (N3) K8, K2tog; (N4) K32 (68)
Rnd 8        K68
Rnd 9        (N1) SSK, K7; (N2) K18; (N3) K7, K2tog; (N4) K32 (66)
Rnd 10       K66
Rnd 11       (N1) SSK, K6; (N2) K18; (N3) K6, K2tog; (N4) K32 (64)



The Foot Part

Let's start with Rnd 1 again for ease of counting.

Rnd 1-60     K64


The Toe Part

Switch yarn color to CC. Let's start with Rnd 1

Rnd 1       *[K2tog, K28, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 2       K60
Rnd 3       *[K2tog, K26, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 4       K56
Rnd 5       *[K2tog, K24, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 6       K52
Rnd 7       *[K2tog, K22, SSK]* - 2x; (48 sts)
Rnd 8       *[K2tog, K20, SSK]* - 2x; (44 sts)
Rnd 9       *[K2tog, K18, SSK]* - 2x; (40 sts)
Rnd 10     *[K2tog, K16, SSK]* - 2x; (36 sts)
Rnd 11     *[K2tog, K14, SSK]* - 2x; (32 sts)
Rnd 12     *[K2tog, K12, SSK]* - 2x; (28 sts)
Rnd 13     *[K2tog, K10, SSK]* - 2x; (24 sts)


To Finish Each Sock:

Combine the first 12 sts on one needle, then combine the last 12 sts on another needle, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. Then wear it or gift it.



My Other Project:

TINY HAT AND SOCKS FOR NEWBORN TWINS
Tiny Hat and Socks For Newborn Twins - HandMadeRukodelky ©2020



Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.
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