BEEHIVE SWEATER

I knew this project would take a long time to finish when I started it at the end of Spring. Not only because knitting cables is more time-consuming than just simple knitting, but I tend to start other projects as well. So, if you want to knit this "Beehive Sweater," give yourself ample time to finish it on time. If you want to knit the sweater, you need to know how to cast on, how to knit "knit" and "purl" stitches, C4F and C4B stitches, and how to bind off. 

If you are attempting to knit cables for the first time, do not despair. I have several videos grouped into a playlist for this project. Yes, my videos can be lengthy at times. But if you feel you understand what I am demonstrating, skip those parts. And if you don't understand, what is happening, play the video again. I hope you will find these videos helpful.

I knitted this sweater in a rectangle way.  (See the diagram below). Sleeves can be knitted as rectangles or tapered. You decide if you want them wide, or more narrow around the wrist area.

I also would like to talk about how you can size this sweater. It seems that 12 rows and 16 stitches both measure three inches (3"). So, from this knowledge, draw a plan of how wide and long your sweater should be. Don't forget to consider that if you wash your finished sweater, it may stretch - my small size turned into nearly a medium size. However, my daughter loves this oversized and cozy gift. The sleeves are longer than I anticipated. I suggested to my daughter that I would shorten them - it would be no problem since they are knitted from the shoulder down toward the wrist. However, she refused me to fix "the problem." So with this knowledge, you can decide how many repeat cables in rows and stitches you prefer. Also, consider having the sweater dry cleaned.

Now, let me talk a little about the head opening. In the video, I am demonstrating the binding off 44 stitches. You can also see that I had to rip it because the head opening was too big (it would, most likely, work better for a larger person). Instead, the second time around, I bound off 36 stitches. (See the image above of how it looks after I washed the sweater). I feel it would be even better if I bound off 28 stitches, but my daughter loves it as it is. The binding off 28 stitches, few shoulder rows, and casting on 28 stitches would make the head opening hug the neck area, yet it would have enough space to pull the sweater over the head. So again, using this information, you can tailor your project to any person's body and what the person prefers.

I doubled the strands because I didn't have any chunky yarn at hand. However, I had nearly 2 kilos of Knit Picks DK Merino. You may replace it with chunky yarn if you wish. Perhaps you would love to use light and fluffy (chunky) yarn instead of merino. Then all you have to do is a swatch to make sure you will size your work correctly. 

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"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS

"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS

STAY TUNED for the "Half-Balls" pattern (you can see them on the model in the design above). The remaining videos will be added as I finish editing them. ENJOY and share your work 😉🙂🌸

Size: Small (oversized), or Medium (more fitting)

Material:

• Yarn - 16 skeins of KNIT PICKS, Bare - DOUBLED; Colors: Natural; DK (#3); 100% Merino; 246 yds/100g; (12 skeins for a sweater, and 4 skeins for 1/2 balls)
• Knitting needles (straights, circulars, DPNs) #11 (8 mm)
• Markers
  
• Hook 6 mm
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

st, sts - stitch, stitches 
M - marker

C4F - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in front of your knitting

C4B - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in the back of your knitting

CCO - cable cast-on

BO - bind off

Cable Stitch Pattern Repeat

Gauge (cable):

3"x 3" = 16 sts x 12 rows

Step-by-Step Directions:

FRONT PART

CO 108 sts

Row 1            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 2            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn

Repeat Row 1 & 2 two more times (Row 3-6)

Note: From now on use knit sts only for the cables (knit sts on the right side, purl sts on the wrong side)

Row 7            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #1)
Row 8            P108
Row 9            K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11          K108
Row 12          P108

Row 13          K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #2)
Row 14          P108
Row 15          K108
Row 16          P108
Row 17          K108
Row 18          P108

Repeat Rows 7-18 as many times as needed. I repeated these twelve rows 7x in total before starting my shoulder area. If you would like your sweater longer repeat Rows 7-18  one or more extra times.

Then repeat rows 7-13 again as such:

Row 7            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 8            P108
Row 9            K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11          K108
Row 12          P108

Row 13          K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2

Then continue your front as such (NECK AREA RIBBING):

Row 14          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 15          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn
Row 16          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 17          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn
Row 18          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 19          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn

Work on the head opening = BO stitches in the middle as such:

Row 1            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, next C4F - BUT knit only the 2 back (purl) sts !! and BO 2 knit sts; then BO 32 sts, THEN start your C4B - but BO 2 knit sts, then BO 1 purl st and knit 1 back (purl) sts (these two sts will be part of your shoulder, 36 sts);  finish the row with *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, and K2, turn 

At this point, you will turn your work around and work on the first shoulder part. 

SHOULDER #1

Row 2            P36
Row 3            K36
Row 4            P36
Row 5            K36
Row 6            P36
Row 7            K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8            P36
Row 9            K36

DO NOT FASTEN OFF (don't cut off your yarn). 

With a different skein work on the second shoulder.

SHOULDER #2

Row 2            start working on the wrong side - attach a different skein; P36
Row 3            K36
Row 4            P36
Row 5            K36
Row 6            P36
Row 7            K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8            P36
Row 9            K36

BACK PART

Continue working on your back part starting with the yarn on Shoulder #1:

Row 10            P36, CCO 36 sts, P36 sts from Shoulder #2  (Note: put a marker in this row on each side - this will be the middle mark for your future sleeves.)
Row 11            K108
Row 12            P108

Starting with Row 13 - repeat Cable Rows 7-18 (= "12-Row Repeat") from FRONT PART eight times (8x) in total. 
(If you knitted your front longer than the written pattern for the front, knit as many EXTRA "row repeats" as you did for the front part.)

After you knit your last "12-Row Repeat" finish your BACK PART with the last cable row and then 4/4 ribbing as such:

Row 1            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 2            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 3            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn
Row 4            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 5            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn
Row 6            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 7            BO all sts, fasten off

SLEEVES - make 2 (one on each side of the sweater)

There are 4 ways to make your sleeves.

1. Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them in the round (use either DPNs or circulars)
2. Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them back and forth
3. Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a knitting needle and knit them back and forth
4. Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a circular needle (or DPN) and knit them in the round

If you choose to work back and forth (as in #2 & #3 ways), you will follow all odd rows (1, 3, 5.... etc) as written below. All your even rows (2, 4, 6... etc.) will be worked on the wrong side, which means you will purl every even row, except the 4/4 ribbing.

Cast on 78 stitches along the side of your front/back part. The middle of the sleeve width should correspond with the row where you casted-on for the back part and where you put your marker. You should CO 39 sts from the front and 39 sts from the back into EVERY row. (The tightness of the cable pattern makes the cast on nicely even and flat. There is no need to skip or add stitches. The seam should not be warped or pulling.) 

This sleeve pattern is for knitting in the round. Sleeves come out long. If you want them shorter you may adjust your rows.

After you CO your 78 sts, start knitting in the round (on DPNs or Circular needles) as such:

Rnd 1-3             K78

Rnd 4                   K3, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 5-9                K78
Rnd 10                 K3, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 11-14            K78
Rnd 15                 (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K72, SSK, K1 (76 sts)

Rnd 16                 K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 17-21            K76
Rnd 22                 K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 23-26            K76
Rnd 27                 (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K70, SSK, K1 (74 sts)

Rnd 28                  K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 29-33             K74
Rnd 34                  K1, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 35-39             K74
Rnd 40                  K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 41-44             K74
Rnd 45                   (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K68, SSK, K1(72 sts)

Rnd 46                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 47-51              K72

Rnd 52                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 53-57               K72
Rnd 58                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 59-63              K72

Rnd 64                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 65-69              K72
Rnd 70                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 71-75              K72

Rnd 76                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 77-83              *[K2, P4, K2]* - 9x

Rnd 84                    BO

Finishing:

Sew/crochet sides (= back to front) together, and weave in all the ends. If you desire, you could crochet half-balls (video coming soon), or buy acrylic pom-poms, and sew/tie them into the "dimples" between the cables.

CROCHETED HALF BALLS

Double the yarn.

To start: leave about 1 foot long tail, then wrap yarn around your index and middle finger (make magic loop) and croche into the loop as such: ch2, then make 7 (or eight) unfinished dc (only half way through) - you shoud have 8 (or nine) loops on your hook; then pull yarn through all 8 (9) loops, and make last chain (or rather knot). Pull on the yarn tight. Leaving second tail about 1 foot.

To finish - either color the "half balls" while still flat, OR pull on the first tail (the magic loop tail) to form the half ball and color then. 

As soon as I have this video edited you will be able to see it in the playlist above.

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Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.