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Pink Simple Ankle Length Socks For Narrow Foot - Size US 6


Knitted simple socks with short row heel
Not too long ago I made a video and a free pattern for simple socks (= Emerald Isle Socks, for which you can click HERE for reference, including links for videos for left-handed and right-handed knitters). The "Emerald Socks" are for foot US size 7-8, and an average foot width. The yarn (Wildfoote, Luxury Sock Yarn) is a little thicker than the yarn I used for my pink variegated socks (self striping yarn), so I had to use one size bigger needles to knit them.

Today's post will be similar, but for a smaller foot (size US 6) and narrow foot. The socks are knitted with a short row heel and a tapered toe area, just like the "Emerald Socks." I worked with only one set of double pointed needles - 2.25mm, and slightly thinner yarn - Paton's Kroy Socks Yarn. If you do not like knitting with DPNs, you can use circular needles - but make sure you use markers.

I used only one ball of yarn, and I still have a leftover yarn. I am wondering if I could make one more pair for a newborn baby.
Since there is a little yarn left, I believe you could make your socks either wider, or slightly longer, or knit a bit longer ribbing for your socks. Enjoy.

FYI
Righties can learn how to do a short row heel in THIS VIDEO and a toe part in THIS VIDEO

Lefties can learn how to do a short row heel in THIS VIDEO and a toe part in THIS VIDEO

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you finds a mistake in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Let me know by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Materials:
  • 1 ball of Paton's Kroy Socks Yarn 75% Washable Wool/25% Nylon; 166 yds (152 m); 1.75 oz (50 gr), color "Brown Rose Marl"
  • Knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm) - pattern calls for double pointed, but you can use circular needles instead
  • Scissors
  • yarn needle (for thin yarn) to perform Kitchener stitch 

Gouge (stockinette stitch):
  • on knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm) - 1"x1" = 7 sts x 10 rows

Size:

These socks are approximately for ankles about 6" around and will stretch up to 6.5" around. Add 4 extra stitches to make socks about 0.75" wider. The length of these socks is 8.75", and can stretch a little too.
Note: For shorter socks knit lower number of rows between your finished heel and before you start knitting your toe area.
    Measurements of this sock



    Abbreviation:

    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    K2tog - knit two stitches together

    SSK - slip slip and then knit them together through the back loop

    RS - right side

    WS - wrong side
    
st(s) - stitch(es)

    Short row heels & a tapered toe area


    Step-by-Step Directions:

    Make 2.

    Foundation: CO loosely 48 stitches; or use 1 size bigger needles just to CO - that is 2.75 mm knitting needles

    The Cuff

    Row 1          *[K2, P2]* - then distribute the stitches evenly, among all 3-4 DPNs, without twisting your knitt join into a circle

    Row 2-20      *[K2, P2]* (or as many rows as you want)
    Row 21-28      K48

    Forming The Heel

    Before you start knitting 23th row move 24 stitches on the needle #1, 12 stitches on the needle #2 and 12 stitches on the needle #3. To form your heel you will work with 24 stitches (back and forth) on the needle #1 and you will use also a knitting needle #4, therefore you will work with two knitting needles, leaving needles #2 and #3 alone. You can also double your yarn for a stronger/thicker heel (= use a yarn from another skein)


    Row 29           (RS) keep knitting with single string yarn (OR double your yarn for thicker heel) , K8, pm, K8, pm, K7 (you knitted 23 sts), leave 24th stitch on your left needle and  turn your work to knit on WS
    (Note - your placed markers are there just to let you know when you will stop decreasing and start increasing, you just need to move them from needle to needle. If the markers would be in your way you don't have to use them)

    Row 30           (WS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front - sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P21 (to 1 st before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 31           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K20 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 32           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P19 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 33           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K18 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 34           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P17 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 35           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K16 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 36           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P15 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 37           (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K14 (to 5 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 38           (WS - now you have 5 sts on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P13 (to 5 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 39           (RS - now you have 5 st on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K12 (to 6 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 40           (WS - now you have 6 sts on the right needle and 18 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P11 (to 6 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 41           (RS - now you have 6 st on the right needle and 18 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K10 (to 7 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 42           (WS - now you have 7 sts on the right needle and 17 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P9 (to 7 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 43           (RS - now you have 7 st on the right needle and 16 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K8 (to 8 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 44           (WS - now you have 8 sts on the right needle and 16 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P7 (to 8 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side

    Now we will start adding stitches on both,  the right and wrong, sides back again

    Row 1           (RS - now you have 8 st on the right needle and 16 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K7 (to 8 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 16th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 17th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 17th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 2           (WS - now you have 7 sts on the right needle and 17 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P8 (to 8 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 16th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 17th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 17th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 3           (RS - now you have 7 st on the right needle and 17 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K9 (to 7 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 17th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 18th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 18th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 4           (WS - now you have 6 sts on the right needle and 18 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P10 (to 7 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 17th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 18th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 18th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 5           (RS - now you have 6 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K11 (to 6 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 18th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 19th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 19th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 6           (WS - now you have 5 sts on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P12 (to 6 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 18th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 19th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 19th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 7           (RS - now you have 5 st on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K13 (to 5 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 19th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 20th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 20th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 8           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P14 (to 5 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 19 stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 20th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 20th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 9           (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K15 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 20th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 21st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 21st st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 10           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P16 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 20th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 21st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 21st st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 11           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K17 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 21st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 22nd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 22nd st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 12           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P18 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 21st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 22nd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 22nd st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 13           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K19 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 22nd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 23rd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 23rd st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 14           (WS - now you have 1 sts on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P20 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 22nd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 23rd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 23rd st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 15           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K21 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 23rd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 24th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 24th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 16           (WS - now you have all 24 sts on one needle only) With yarn in front sl st first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P22 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch  - pick a horizontal strand between your 23rd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 24th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 24th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side

    The Foot Area

    From now on you will work on the right side in the round again

    Row 1            sl first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, K23; now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your 24th and 25th stitches front to back and knit the "added stitch" with 25th st together; K23

    Row 2           now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch (front to back) between your last knitted  and your 1st stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 1st st together, K47

    Row 3-60    K48

    Toe Area

    Row 1       *[K2tog, K20, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 2       K44
    Row 3       *[K2tog, K18, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 4       K40
    Row 5       *[K2tog, K16, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 6       K36
    Row 7       *[K2tog, K14, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 8       K32
    Row 9       *[K2tog, K12, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 10       K28
    Row 11       *[K2tog, K10, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 12       K24
    Row 13       *[K2tog, K8, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 14       K20

    Move stitches from a needle #2 onto needle #1 and stitches from a needle #3 onto needle #4. Use Kitchener stitches to seam two sets of live stitches (10 sts & 10 sts) invisibly. See my detailed video how to do the Kitchener stitch in my Emerald sock video 3/3. The link is at the top of this page, when you open the "Emerald Socks" post, click on Playlist for videos.

    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    *********************************************************

    See my many videos on my YouTube Channel HERE (you can load more videos at the bottom of my channel page)

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