CROCHETED WOOL BOOTS WITH RUBBER SOLES

I crocheted boots before, but never a pair with rubber soles. And let me tell you, this was a challenge. I had to pull a thick yarn through a very tight cotton string base on the rubber soles. 

I started first with a yarn needle. That didn't work, so II switched to a 1.65 mm stainless steel hook. That worked, but I destroyed it after working on my first boot. I tossed it and went rummaging into my hook box. I found another stainless steel hook, this time a 2 mm one. This hook worked out fine, but it was harder to push it through and then pull it out with the yarn. I worked slowly to distribute all slip stitches (my base) evenly. I pulled 51 slip stitches on my first boot but 52 on my second. I solved my problem by crocheting two single crochet stitches together in the second row in order to have both my boots sized identically.

When I was attaching the top part (instep), I made sure I achieved the same number of stitches for both ankles. Each boot took me one day to finish. I think these boots would make a great gift. 

You may not be able to find the same yarn (I bought it a while ago) - I pulled it out of my considerable stash. I would suggest using any ribbon type of yarn because my yarn is in a shape of a ribbon.

ALSO:

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Material:

• 7+ balls (depending on the size of the shoe) of ARTFUL YARNS, Palace, Super Bulky Weight; 48% wool,45% acrylic, 7% nylon; 50g; approx. 27 yards. OR any ribbon-like yarn.
• Hooks: 2 mm stainless steel (for the foundation around the rubber sole's perimeter) and 6 mm to crochet the boot
• Rubber soles (I bought mine from Etsy, which was shipped to me from Spain)
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:
Women's shoe EU 35 (US size 5; 22 cm foot length)

Height of the boot - 7"

Circumference at the top of the boot 11"

However, you can adjust your rows to different sizes and heights of your boots.

Gouge:
2" = 8 sts
1.5" = 3 double crochet rows

Abbreviations:
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
2 sctog - two single crochet together
st, sts - stitch, stitches
prev - previous

Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2 of each: Sole Inserts, Instep Pieces, and Boots.

SOLE INSERTS - Make 2 identical, but use one on the right side and the other on wrong side. 

I used my sole as a template for my increases and decreases

I made my sole inserts a little bigger than the rubber soles so I could connect them together with the first row while crocheting the boot.
I used my rubber soles as my template in order to crochet the shape of the sole, which means I increased or decreased according to the shape, checking in each row. In order to make an identical sole I penned down all my rows - this is how I proceeded:

Foundation - ch5

Row 1                 (RS) insert hook into 2nd ch from hook - make 1 sc, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (total 4 sc), turn
Row 2                 (WS) 2 sc in first st, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (5 sc), turn
Row 3                 2 sc in first st, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (6 sc), turn
Row 4                 1 sc in each of 3 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 2 stitches, turn
Row 5                 1 sc in each of 3 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches  (8 sc), turn
Row 6                 1 sc in each of 4 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches  (9 sc), turn
Row 7-9              1 sc in each of 9 stitches (9 sc), turn
Row 10               1 sc in each of 4 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (8 sc), turn
Row 11               1 sc in each of 8 stitches (8 sc), turn
Row 12               1 sc in each of 3 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (7 sc), turn
Row 13-19          1 sc in each of 7 stitches (7 sc), turn
Row 20               1 sc in each of 2 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (6 sc), turn
Row 21-22          1 sc in each of 6 stitches (6 sc), turn
Row 23               *[1 sc, next 2 sctog]* - 2x,  (4 sc),  fasten off

INSTEP - TOP OF THE BOOT

The bottom piece is my INSTEP piece (top of the boot)

Foundation - ch5

Row 1                1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch st to end, turn (total 4 sts)
Row 2                2 sc into 1st st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into last st to, turn (6 sts)
Row 3                1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, turn (6 sts)
Row 4                2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn (8 sts)
Row 5-8            1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, turn (8 sts)
Row 9                1 sc into in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, turn (9 sts)
Row 10              1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, turn (9 sts)
Row 11              1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, turn (10 sts)
Row 12              1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, turn (10 sts)

Fasten off your yarn

BOOT

Note: My starting point was at the back (heel) of the rubber sole.

Prep your rubber sole by crocheting slip stitches around the entire perimeter of the sole. For this hard job I used a 1.65 mm hook, which I inserted under each thread (on the side of the rubber sole) and pulled a loop big enough to make a slip stitch, I skipped the next thread, and then I made another slip stitch. I continued this way around, which means each time I skipped one thread and made a slip stitch in the next one.

I was able to make 51 stitches slip stitches around. Place your SOLE INSERT inside the rubber sole - you will crochet both together. Make sure the SOLE INSERT is placed correctly

    The Foot Area

Rnd 1                1 hdc into each slip st and to the side of the crocheted SOLE INSERT (to end)
                          Note: don't use slip st, just continue crocheting in a spiral pattern

This is how finished Rnd 1 looks like

Rnd 2                1 sc into each hdc (to end)
Rnd 3                1 sc into each sc from prev row (to end)

Place the INSTEP (see above) over the front part of the shoe and pin it so it doesn't shift. Make sure it is not crooked. Make sure that you will place the second INSTEP on the other boot exactly the same way.

Instep before & after crocheted together with the boot

Rnd 4                1 sc into each sc from prev row until you reach the INSTEP part, then crochet around 1 sc into sc and the side of the crocheted INSTEP, then continue with 1 sc into each sc from prev row to last st before the row ends

    The Ankle Area

Rnd 5                Decrease by crocheting the last sc and 1st sc stitches together (= 2 sctog), then 1 sc into each stitch until you have one stitch before the INSTEP part (corner),  decrease again by crocheting last sc st on the side and the first sc Instep stitch together, then crochet across to last Instep sc st and decrease in that corner again with 2 sctog, finish the row with 1 sc into each sc from prev row (to end)

The green arrows represent the ankle ("tube") part,
the yellow arrows point to the 2 sctog in Rnd 5

Rnd 6-11           1 sc into each sc from prev row (I ended up with 26 ankle stitches)
Rnd 12              2 sc in first st, then 1 sc into each sc from prev row (27 sts)
Rnd 13              1 sc into each sc from prev row  (27 sts)
Rnd 14              2 sc in first st, then 1 sc into each sc from prev row (28 sts)
Rnd 15-17        1 sc into each sc from prev row (28 sts)
Rnd 18             1 sc into each sc from prev row until 5 sts from end, then do 1 sl st into each sc from prev row, fasten off (23 sts + 5 sl sts), weave in all tails

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

SOCKS FOR 10 PLUS INCH FOOT - WITH CAST ON 64 STITCHES

My daughter asked me for another pair of socks for a friend. I decided to use my leftover sock yarn - all in all, the leftovers came up to about a little less than 2 balls (2 different kinds of yarn).
My daughter told me that the shoe size of this young lady is 11. Since they are living very far from me and didn't have measurements of my daughter's friend's feet, I had to do some research on how approximately long these socks need to be. And I just second-guessed how wide the socks could most likely be. After much of thinking and poking around the internet, I decided to start socks on 64 sts. The socks are knitted like the "Simple Socks For Gentlemen - Shoe Size 13" - however, I tweaked the number of rows and decreases a bit, and changed the decreases in the toe area a little (made it more round instead of angular.)
Oh yes and don't forget to check my YouTube Channel also - plenty of other detailed videos there.

In the meantime knit some socks for your daughters, sons, other family members, friends... If you need help, see the video for reference. More videos will be posted on my Youtube channel in the future.
(If you see any error on this page - contact me via social media on the left - txs)

SOME HELPFUL VIDEOS:

• RIGHT HANDED-KNITTERS HERE

• LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS HERE 

Material:

• MC - 1 & 1/4 leftover ball of Patons, KROY Socks; 75% Washable Wool - 25% Nylon; 166 yds (152 m); 1.75 oz (50 gr), color: Blue Striped Rag - total yarn usage approx 200 m
• CC - A leftover ball of Drops Design, FABEL Uni Colour, Superwash Treated Sock Wool; 75% Wool - 25% Polyamide; 224 yds (205 m); 1.8 oz (50 gr), color: medium blue #103
• DPNs, or long Circulars Knitting Needles #2 (2.75 mm) - if you knit loosely then 2.5mm needles
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for Kitchener Stitch & for weaving in the tails)

Size:

• Shoe size: ~ US size 10-11
• Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is ~4.5"(unstretched) to ~10" (stretched)
• Ribbing (Cuff) Height: 5.5”
• Heel Flap: ~2.25"
• Sole width: 4” flat; (circumference is ~ 8”)
• Length of the sole heel to toe: ~10” (you can make it longer if you chose so)

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

• on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 8 sts x 11 rows

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively


Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2.

Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 64 stitches


The Cuff

I knitted the initial 7 rows with CC yarn, then I switched to MC yarn.

Rnd 1-7          (CC) *[K1, P1]* - to the end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle

Rnd 8-50      (MC) *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff about 5.5" long.
Note: Do not cut off your MC yarn, you will continue with it after you are finished with your heel flap and turning heel.


The Heel Flap

For the heel flap, I used CC yarn.
If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needle #1 -32 sts, needles #2 and #3 - 16 sts each. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided into 32 + 32 between your magic loops. Use markers if needed.

Row 1-20      Work on your first 32 sts only back and forth (NOT in the round) - *[K1, P1]* - to the end (of each row)

Note: This heel is not reinforced with slip stitches thus only 20 rows.


Turning The Heel (row by row)

Keep working your sock back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.

Row 1     (RS) sl. 1st st, K17, SSK, K1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2     (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn

Row 3     (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4     (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5     (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6     (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7     (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8     (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9     (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10   (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11   (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12   (WS) sl. 1st st, P15, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn

Row 13   (RS) sl. 1st st, K16, SSK, turn
Row 14   (WS) sl. 1st st, P16 to last 2 sts , P2tog, (total 18 sts on the needle)


The Gusset (round by round)

Note: you will work from now on RS only in the round. Use MC from now on until the toe area.

You should finish with 18 sts on your needle, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. You will proceed as such:

• turn your sock sideways and pick up 13 stitches along the first side using a knitting needle and your MC color yarn; 
• then K18 (the "turning the heel stitches")
• pick up another 13 sts along the other side of the flap
• then K32 sts - you should have now 76 stitches on your needles, distributed as such: N1(this will be the BEGINNING of the row) - 13 sts (= first side of the flap); N2 - 18 sts (from turning the heel); N3 - 13 sts (= second side of the flap); N4 - 36 sts (top of the foot) 

Note: If you are knitting on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you are using circular needles insert markers between the 13-18-13-36 sts to keep track of your work.

Now we have to decrease some stitches on both sides of your flap to get back to 64 sts total on our needles - we will do that by decreasing while working on our gusset.

Let's start with Rnd 1 on the side using MC (from the cuff)

Rnd 1        (N1) SSK, K11; (N2) K18; (N3) K11, K2tog; (N4) K32 (74)
Rnd 2        K74
Rnd 3        (N1) SSK, K10; (N2) K18; (N3) K10, K2tog; (N4) K32 (72)
Rnd 4        K72
Rnd 5        (N1) SSK, K9; (N2) K18; (N3) K9, K2tog; (N4) K32 (70)
Rnd 6        K70
Rnd 7        (N1) SSK, K8; (N2) K18; (N3) K8, K2tog; (N4) K32 (68)
Rnd 8        K68
Rnd 9        (N1) SSK, K7; (N2) K18; (N3) K7, K2tog; (N4) K32 (66)
Rnd 10       K66
Rnd 11       (N1) SSK, K6; (N2) K18; (N3) K6, K2tog; (N4) K32 (64)

The Foot Part

Let's start with Rnd 1 again for ease of counting.

Rnd 1-60     K64


The Toe Part

Switch yarn color to CC. Let's start with Rnd 1

Rnd 1       *[K2tog, K28, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 2       K60
Rnd 3       *[K2tog, K26, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 4       K56
Rnd 5       *[K2tog, K24, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 6       K52
Rnd 7       *[K2tog, K22, SSK]* - 2x; (48 sts)
Rnd 8       *[K2tog, K20, SSK]* - 2x; (44 sts)
Rnd 9       *[K2tog, K18, SSK]* - 2x; (40 sts)
Rnd 10     *[K2tog, K16, SSK]* - 2x; (36 sts)
Rnd 11     *[K2tog, K14, SSK]* - 2x; (32 sts)
Rnd 12     *[K2tog, K12, SSK]* - 2x; (28 sts)
Rnd 13     *[K2tog, K10, SSK]* - 2x; (24 sts)


To Finish Each Sock:

Combine the first 12 sts on one needle, then combine the last 12 sts on another needle, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. Then wear it or gift it.



My Other Project:

TINY HAT AND SOCKS FOR NEWBORN TWINS

Tiny Hat and Socks For Newborn Twins - HandMadeRukodelky ©2020

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Unisex Baby Hat On Straight Needles

A few weeks ago I had a request to make a video of a hat knitted on straight knitting needles. This hat is simple enough for any beginner that mastered cast on, bind off, knit and purl stitches, and can follow a tutorial on how to do decreases (in my video). Below you will find links to the videos (for right-handed and left-handed knitters) and also my written pattern.

The written pattern is for 6 months old baby (M size), but if you would like to knit the hat for a small (S size) baby, then cast on 8 stitches less (70 sts) and knit a lower number of rows to accommodate for the height of the smaller head (6 - 10 fewer rows). If you would like to knit the hat for a bigger baby (L size) then you can add 8 stitches (86 sts), and if needed knit more rows in the middle part. You would also adjust the number of stitches between decreases.

I decided to calculate stitches for Small and Large sizes for you - just in case, you would like to make a smaller or bigger hat.

Please let me know of any mathematical errors in my pattern.

Enjoy.

Videos:

FOR RIGHT HANDED KNITTERS

FOR LEFT HANDED KNITTERS - COMING SOON

Size:

Small and Large sizes are calculated mathematically, therefore the measurements are approximate. The Medium size is more accurate (my measured hat)

• head circumference - approx. S-12.5", M-14", L-15.5" (unstretched), up to 14"-18"-20" (stretched) 
• hat height - approx. 6"-7"-7.5"
• ribbing height  - 1"

Gauge:

10 sts & 20 rows = 2” (garter stitch)

Material:

• Yarn: 1 skein of KnitPicks, Bare, DK weight; 100% Merino wool; Color: hand-colored; 100 g; 246 yds; Note: you could also use either 1 ball of SWISH DK (100% Fine Superwash Merino), or 1 ball of CAPRA DK YARN (85%merino and 15% cashmere - these links are affiliated links.
• Straight knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm)
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle

Abbreviations:

S - small size (0-3 months)
M - medium size (6 months)

L - large size (9-12 months)

CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
sl last st wyf - slip first stitch purl-wise with yarn in front

CDD - Center Double Decrease - first insert your working needle knit-wise through the first two stitches on your main needle, then slip them off together (DO NOT knit them together, just slip them), knit the next stitch, and then pass both slipped stitches together over the stitch you just knitted 

st(s) - stitch(es)

Step-by-Step Directions:

Foundation - cast on 70-78-86 stitches

RIBBING:

Row 1-6            *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, turn

MIDDLE PART:

Let's start row count from 1

Rnd 1-43                K1tbl, K68-76-84, sl last st wyf

Knit until your middle part measures approximately 3.75"- 4.25"- 4.75". My middle part measured 4.25"

VERSION #1

DECREASING FOR THE TOP OF THE HAT:

This seam is one stitch off-center

This decrease part is written according to my video (see above), which I was making without any pattern. It was more or less free knitting - I was designing the hat as I was videotaping. However, the seam is one stitch off-center. 

If you want perfectly centered seam, see VERSION #2 with the CENTERED DECREASE  below.

Let's start row count from 1

Rnd 1                K1tbl, K8-9-10, CDD, *[K14-16-18, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K6-7-8, sl last st wyf

Rnd 2                K1tbl, K6-7-8, P1, *[K14-16-18, P1]* - repeat 3x, K8-9-10, sl last st wyf

Rnd 3                K1tbl, K7-8-9, CDD, *[K12-14-16, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K5-6-7, sl last st wyf

Rnd 4                K1tbl, KK5-6-7, P1, *[K12-14-16, P1]* - repeat 3x, K7-8-9, sl last st wyf

Rnd 5                K1tbl, K6-7-8, CDD, *[K10-12-14, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K4-5-6, sl last st wyf

Rnd 6                K1tbl, K4-5-6, P1, *[K10-12-14, P1]* - repeat 3x, K6-7-8, sl last st wyf

Rnd 7                K1tbl, K5-6-7, CDD, *[K8-10-12, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K3-4-5, sl last st wyf

Rnd 8                K1tbl, K3-4-5, P1, *[K8-10-12, P1]* - repeat 3x, K5-6-7, sl last st wyf

Rnd 9                K1tbl, K4-5-6, CDD, *[6-8-10, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K2-3-4, sl last st wyf

Rnd 10              K1tbl, K2-3-4, P1, *[K6-8-10, P1]* - repeat 3x, K4-5-6, sl last st wyf

Rnd 11              K1tbl, K3-4-5, CDD, *[K4-6-8, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K1-2-3, sl last st wyf

Rnd 12              K1tbl, K1-2-3, P1, *[K4-6-8, P1]* - repeat 3x, K3-4-5, sl last st wyf

Rnd 13              K1tbl, K2-3-4, CDD, *[K2-4-6, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K0-1-2, sl last st wyf

Rnd 14              K1tbl, K0-1-2, P1, *[K2-4-6, P1]* - repeat 3x, K2-3-4, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE SMALL HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Rnd 13              K1tbl, K2-3, CDD, *[K2-4, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K0-1, sl last st wyf

Rnd 14              K1tbl, K0-1, P1, *[K2-4, P1]* - repeat 3x, K2-3, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE MEDIUM HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Rnd 15              K1tbl, K2, CDD, *[K2, CDD]* - repeat 3x, sl last st wyf

Rnd 16              K1tbl, P1, *[K2, P1]* - repeat 3x, K2, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE LARGE HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

VERSION #2

PERFECTLY CENTERED DECREASE FOR THE TOP OF THE HAT AND CENTERED SEAM

Here you can see a perfectly centered seam

Let's start row count from 1

Rnd 1                K1tbl, K7-8-9, CDD, *[K14-16-18, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K7-8-9, sl last st wyf

Rnd 2                K1tbl, K7-8-9, P1, *[K14-16-18, P1]* - repeat 3x, K7-8-9, sl last st wyf

Rnd 3                K1tbl, K6-7-8, CDD, *[K12-14-16, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K6-7-8, sl last st wyf

Rnd 4                K1tbl, K6-7-8, P1, *[K12-14-16, P1]* - repeat 3x, K6-7-8, sl last st wyf

Rnd 5                K1tbl, K5-6-7, CDD, *[K10-12-14, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K5-6-7, sl last st wyf

Rnd 6                K1tbl, K5-6-7, P1, *[K10-12-14, P1]* - repeat 3x, K5-6-7, sl last st wyf

Rnd 7                K1tbl, K4-5-6, CDD, *[K8-10-12, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K4-5-6, sl last st wyf

Rnd 8                K1tbl, K4-5-6, P1, *[K8-10-12, P1]* - repeat 3x, K4-5-6, sl last st wyf

Rnd 9                K1tbl, K3-4-5, CDD, *[K6-8-10, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K3-4-5, sl last st wyf

Rnd 10              K1tbl, K3-4-5, P1, *[K6-8-10, P1]* - repeat 3x, K3-4-5, sl last st wyf

Rnd 11              K1tbl, K2-3-4, CDD, *[K4-6-8, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K2-3-4, sl last st wyf

Rnd 12              K1tbl, K2-3-4, P1, *[K4-6-8, P1]* - repeat 3x, K2-3-4, sl last st wyf

Rnd 13              K1tbl, K1-2-3, CDD, *[K2-4-6, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K1-2-3, sl last st wyf

Rnd 14              K1tbl, K1-2-3, P1, *[K2-4-6, P1]* - repeat 3x, K1-2-3, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE SMALL HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Rnd 13              K1tbl, K1-2, CDD, *[K2-4, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K1-2, sl last st wyf

Rnd 14              K1tbl, K1-2, P1, *[K2-4, P1]* - repeat 3x, K1-2, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE MEDIUM HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Rnd 15              K1tbl, K1, CDD, *[K2, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K1, sl last st wyf

Rnd 16              K1tbl, K1, P1, *[K2, P1]* - repeat 3x, K1, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE LARGE HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (a hat) made by you. Don't forget to credit me.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Tiny Baby Socks

I have written several simple sock patterns that I published on my blog.

Today, I would like to introduce you to my newest simple sock pattern for tiny babies. I knitted these socks with DK weight yarn, which is not too thin but not too thick to work with either. So if you are a seasoned knitter that would like to learn how to knit socks, you could start with socks for babies using semi-thin yarn. When you learn these basics you can move onto larger socks and then with more experience onto complex ones. 

Is this written pattern giving you a hard time? Do you prefer knitting along with videos? I have two of them - one for righties and one for lefties. Simply click on my video and knit with me. 

Should you want to knit baby shorts from the same yarn - CLICK HERE.

Enjoy. Good Luck.

VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR RIGHTIES CLICK HERE.

VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR LEFTIES CLICK HERE.

Material:

• Yarn: leftover yarn of KnitPicks, Bare, DK weight; 100% Merino wool; Color: linen; 100 g; 246 yds; Note: if you want to add color to your project you could use either SWISH DK (100% Fine Superwash Merino), or CAPRA DK YARN (85%merino and 15% cashmere - these links are affiliated links.
• Knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm) - either DPNs (I used 5” long DPNs) or Circular - whichever ones you prefer
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle

Size:

• Length of the sole (heel to toe): ~3.25” (you can make it longer if you chose so)
• Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is 4"(unstretched) to ~5.5" (stretched)
• Ribbing (Cuff) Height: 2.25”
• Heel Flap: 0.75"
• Sole width: 2” flat; (circumference is ~ 4+”)

Gouge:

On knitting needles #5 (3.75mm) - 1” x 1” = 6 sts x 8 rows (in stockinette stitch)

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively

Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2.

Foundation: cast on 28 stitches

• The Cuff

Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, join stitches into a circle

Rnd 2-20      *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted my cuff about 2.25" long.

• The Heel Flap

If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needles #1 and #2 - 10 sts each, needle #3 - 8 sts. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided to 14 + 14 between your magic loops.

Row 21-26      Work on your first 14 sts only back and forth (NOT in the round) - *[K1, P1]* - 7x

• Turning The Heel (row by row)

Keep working your sock back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.

Row 1     (RS) sl. 1st st, K7, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2     (WS) sl. 1st st, P3, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn

Row 3     (RS) sl. 1st st, K4, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4     (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5     (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, (0 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6     (WS) sl. 1st st, P6, P2tog, (0 sts left on the needle), turn

• The Gusset (knit in the round)

Note: you will work from now on RS only in the round.

You should finish with 8 sts on your working needle, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. You will proceed as such (starting with Rnd 1 again):

Rnd 1             K8, PU 5, K14, PU 5

Rnd 2             K11, K2tog, K14, SSK, K3
Rnd 3             K30
Rnd 4             K10, K2tog, K14, SSK, K2
Rnd 5             K28
Rnd 6             K9, K2tog, K14,  Note: This is the end of your row. We will start a new row after this point. If you are knitting on DPNs reshuffle your stitches to N1 (first 10 stitches), then split your 14 sts between N2 and N3

• The Foot Part

Rnd 7             SSK, K1 (Note: add these two stitches to N1), K24 (total 26 sts)

Rnd 8-12        K26

Rnd 13           (N1) K12; (N2) K2tog, K5; (N3) K5, SSK; (total 24 sts)
Rnd 14-15      K24

Note: To make your socks a little longer add as many rows as needed.

 

• The Toe Part

Let's start with Rnd 1 again.

Rnd 1           *[K2tog, K8, SSK]* - 2x

Rnd 2          K20
Rnd 3           *[K2tog, K6, SSK]* - 2x

Rnd 4          K16

Rnd 5           *[K2tog, K4, SSK]* - 2x

• To Finish Each Sock:

In order to close your toe gap with Kitchener stitch, you need 6 stitches lined up with the other 6 stitches. You have first 6 sts on the first needle already, but you need to place the next 6 sts (from needles #2 and #3) on another needle. Cut off about 1/2 a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. 

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Knitted "Breezy Day Shorts" Pattern

Who doesn't love to knit for babies? It is so much fun. And when my friends tell me someone in their family is expecting, I start thinking about a new design. I love to make them something special. Something no one has yet.
My friend will have a baby closer to the fall - when the weather is changing all the time. When hot days replace cool days or nights. When babies may need something warmer, but still semi-summery. With all that on my mind, I designed these tiny shorts (and then knitted socks to go with them).

As I was working on my design, I recorded my progress not only on the paper but I videotaped the knitting tutorial as well. And here I am sharing my project with you.

You will need 1 skein of DK yarn. If you would like to knit socks also then you will need a few more yards of the second skein.

The shorts may be slightly big for a newborn, but perfectly fine on a 3 months old baby. However, some babies are born bigger than others, so keep that in mind.

There is a FREE PATTERN for baby socks on THIS PAGE

• CLICK HERE for a video playlist for these shorts  (4 RIGHTIES) - more videos will be added soon
• CLICK HERE for a video playlist for these shorts (4 LEFTIES) - more videos will be added

"BREEZY DAY SHORTS" PATTERN ( on RAVELRY)   

 

Materials:

• Yarn: 1 skein of KnitPicks, Bare, DK weight; 100% Merino wool; Color: linen; 100 g; 246 yds; Note: if you want to add color to your project you could use either 2 balls of SWISH DK (100% Fine Superwash Merino), or 2 balls CAPRA DK YARN (85%merino and 15% cashmere - these links are affiliated links.
• Knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm) - either DPNs (I used two sizes: 10” & 5”) or Circular - whichever ones you prefer
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle

Size:

0-3 months;
Waist - up to 18”
Hip circumference - 20+”
Leg circumference - up to 11”
Rise - 14” (waist to crotch - 6.75”)


Gouge (stockinette stitch):

On knitting needles #5 (3.75mm) - 1” x 1” = 6 sts x 8 rows

 

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Knitted Confetti Socks

I bought this yarn and made these socks over a year ago. I just didn't have time to finish editing my video and writing the pattern. But here I am a year later to make a little write up before I will publish all - the video and the pattern.

The yarn's colors were appealing to me so strongly that I just had to have it. I am sure you all know the feeling. I feel like a child in a candy store when I see yarn around me. Gold, turquoise and magenta colors intertwine in such ways that they look like confetti fell on the uncolored yarn. This yarn is hand-painted and reflects one of ancient South American color combinations, and it just may brighten anyone 's day.

However, you may replace this yarn with another fingering sock yarn of your choice, the one that appeals to you. Sock yarns are so beautiful these days, and there are a lot of talented yarn "painters". I may try to paint my sock yarn (or any other type of yarn) one day myself. I will keep you posted.


FOR THIS PROJECT YOU WILL NEED:

Yarn:

• 1 ball of Araucania Yarn - Huasco Sock; Color: Guacamayo; 75% Superwash Wool; 25 % Polyamide; 3.52 oz/100 g; 433 yd/396 m 
• Knitting Needles - 2.75mm - DPN or Circular (long ones to knit using a magic circle)
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tail)
• Scissors 

Size:

• Shoe size: ~ US size 6
• Ankle Area: ~ 6.5-7” circumference
• Ribbing Height: 2”
• Sole width: 3.25” (circumference is ~ 6.5”)
• Length of the sole: ~7.5” (you can make it longer if you choose so)
• 
  

VIDEOS:

• CAST ON VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES
• CAST ON VIDEO FOR LEFTIES
• HOW TO KNIT SOCKS FOR RIGHTIES
• HOW TO KNIT SOCKS FOR LEFTIES

And just in case: if you would like to purchase a written pattern and support my video teachings here is the link:



Copyright:
You may not sell/share my written pdf pattern to/with anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

My Mom's Old Fashioned Scarf

When I was a child, my mom used to make scarves for my siblings and me. These scarves' one end would go through an opening on the other end that my mom made while knitting our scarves. That way we would not lose them.
Today I would like to share with you my mom's design (which was very popular then) for such a scarf. I also made videos for knitters (for lefties and righties - see below) who prefer to knit along. The pattern can be adjusted by simply changing stitches to lower or higher number when increasing or decreasing, and knitting the middle part shorter or longer than I described it below and in my videos. I used worsted (#4) yarn, but you may knit this scarf from thinner or thicker yarn as well - then you will have to adjust a number of increases and decreases, and a number of rows in the middle as well.
To knit this scarf, you need to know: how to cast on, knit, purl, knit two together, increase, transfer stitches from one needle onto two needles and then back, and how to bind off.

VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR RIGHTIES

VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR LEFTIES

Materials:
Yarn - any yarn of medium weight (#4, worsted) - your choice;
In the video I am using: Cascade Yarns, Cascade 220, worsted weight #4, 100g/3.5 oz; 220 yds/200 m; Colors: #1 - 9559 (light gray), #2 - 8505 (white)
Knitting Needles - US #8 (5.00 mm): 3 long DPNs (minimum 8" or longer; three 10" would be better) OR 2-3 circular needles (EITHER one 30"+ long, plus one 16"long, OR three 9" to 16" circulars)
Scissors

The scarf weighs 85g in total.

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
st, sts - stitch, stitches
WS - wrong side
RS - right side
incr - increase; insert your needle purlwise through the back loop, knit it, don't take the stitch off the needle yet, knit the same stitch regular way, only then take the stitch off the needle - you increased by 1 stitch
K1-ptbl - knit one stitch purlwise through the back loop
K2tog - knit two stitches together
BO - bind off

Gauge:
My gauge corresponds to a manufacturer's gauge on the yarn label

Size:
Length: 33"
Width: 7"

Step-by-Step:

• HEART/LEAF SHAPED END #1

Yarn color #1 (gray)

Working with two long DPNs, OR one long 30" circular (knitting back and forth with each end), OR two shorter circular (using them the same way as DPNs)  CO 4 sts

Row 1          (WS) K4

Row 2          (RS) incr, K to end
Row 3          (WS) incr, K to end

repeat Rows 2 & 3 as many times as you need, I increased my stitches in each row until I had total 32 stitches on my needles

Row 30       (RS) K32
Row 31       (WS) K32

Repeat Rows 30 & 31 as many times as you need. For my width of 32 stitches, I knitted total 16 rows (half of 32 sts), which means I finished with Row 45.

• OPENING #1

Before you will continue knitting do this first:
While you have your 32 (or your desired even number of stitches, that can be divided by two into another even number) stitches on your needle take either two DPNs, OR two shorter circulars, OR the other end of your long circular and one short circular and transfer stitches from the one needle onto two needles in alternating fashion - first transfer one stitch onto needle #1, then transfer the second stitch onto needle #2 and repeat to end. You should end up with 16 sts on needle #1 and 16 sts on needle #2

Knit stitches on needle #1, the one closer to your body, first:
Row 46     (RS) *[K1, P1]* - to end
Row 47     (WS) *[K1, P1]* - to end

Repeat Rows 46 & 47 nine more times, until you are finished with Row 65, then fasten off the yarn while keeping a tail long about 8"-10"

Fold the first knitted piece forward toward your body, then knit stitches on needle #2, the one further away from your body, starting on the same side as you started when you were working with needle #1, second:
Row 46     (RS) *[K1, P1]* - to end
Row 47     (WS) *[K1, P1]* - to end

Repeat Rows 46 & 47 seven more times, until you are finished with Row 65, DO NOT fasten off the yarn

Transfer stitches in the alternating fashion from two needles onto just one needle as such: starting with the back needle #2 move your first stitch onto the single knitting needle, then take the first stitch from needle #1 and move it onto the same single knitting needle - repeat until you have all 32 stitches back on one knitting needle only.

• MIDDLE PANEL

Note: if you knit this scarf with only one color yarn, knit as many rows as needed to wrap around your neck. My middle part measures 14.5".

This is how I knitted my middle panel:

Row 66              combine tail from the knitting needle #1 and the yarn from the knitting needle #2 and K all stitches to end (with combo tail/yarn you will knit only a few stitches, then continue with yarn only - this will eliminate weaving in the ends)
Row 67-105       K32

Color #2 (white)
Row 106-113    K32

Yarn color #1 (gray)
Row 114-121    K32

Color #2 (white)
Row 122-125    K32

Yarn color #1 (gray)
Row 126-129    K32

Color #2 (white)
Row 130-137    K32

Yarn color #1 (gray)
Row 138-145    K32

Color #2 (white, from now on till end)
Row 146-185    K32

• OPENING #2

In Rows 186 through 205 repeat knitting this opening same way as in Opening #1 - separation of your stitches onto 2 knitting needles, then knit side #1, then side #2, then put these two sides back together onto one knitting needle only.

• HEART/LEAF SHAPED END #2

Continue working as such:

Row 206-221   K32

Row 222          (RS) K1-ptbl, K2tog, K to end
Row 223          (WS) K1-ptbl, K2tog, K to end

Repeat Rows 222 and 223 until you have 4 sts on your needle.

In your last row BO all your stitches. Then weave in all the tails/ends.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.