Crocheted Scarf With Heart 💛 Shaped Ends

Occasionally I get requests to make a specific video. I usually prefer projects that don't take weeks to finish. After all, I am just a "one-man" show. So when it is something that hits my string, I do grant the requested wish. I sit down and start creating. I love the process of thinking up the things, how to make them work. Occasionally, how to make someone else's work easier as well.

This time a nice crocheter asked: "Please, can you make a crochet version of your Mom's Knitted Scarf?" 

So first, I sat down and did some thinking. Then I did a couple of mini prototypes. I thought: "I should make a video tutorial on how to make a scarf for an American Girl Doll. And include some pointers on how to make it bigger. If you want to make it bigger, you need to adjust the rows and stitches> This way you will crochet a bigger/longer scarf. 

Scroll down to the bottom of this page to read my ideas/pointers on how to make it happen.

Should you want to crochet along with my video click on the appropriate link below.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

RIGHT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.

LEFT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.

OTHER SCARF VIDEOS FOR RIGHTIES CLICK HERE

OTHER SCARF VIDEOS FOR LEFTIES CLICK HERE

Size:
Height - 11", Bottom Width - 5.5"; Top Width - 2.25"
Sweater - build your size with as many squares as needed

Material:
Yarn - Lion Brand Yarns, Mandala; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; in the ball: 590 yards/540m; 5.3 oz/150g - I used several yards of a leftover
Hook - 3.75mm
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
2dctog - decrease by crocheting two double crochet stitches together 
ch1sp - chain one space

st, sts - stitch, stitches

fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet

END HEART/LEAF PIECES
Make 2

Note - at each beginning of the row, ch4 represents ch3=1dc and ch1=ch1sp. Please note there are only ch1 spaces at the beginning of the row and at the end of the row!

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 10 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 8                    ch3, *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn

These 14 sts will separate into two parts - Part A (fpdc sts) and Part B (bpdc sts) - as such:

Part A

Turn as if to work on the wrong side, you will work with 1/2 the stitches +1 (total 8 sts), your 6 bpdc stitches will become now 6 fpdc sts, plus 2 end sts.

Row 9                    ch3, work 1 fpdc in each fpdc (which is actually bpdc before you turned your work around) from prev row ONLY (ignore bpdc sts, which were actually fpdc sts before you turned) - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off

Part B

In Part B you'll work on your right side. Start with a new string (yarn), you will crochet into fpdc stitches only and finish the last dc stitch into your dc stitch from Row 8 (see Row 9)

Row 9                    ch3 (starting in the 3rd ch); then work 1 fpdc in each fpdc that is facing you (bpdc in the prev row) - 6x; 1 dc in the last dc from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off

MIDDLE SCARF PART
The middle part - make 1.  (The pattern in row 3 is worked on multiples of 3 sts + 3.)

Foundation - ch10

Row 1                     1 dc into 4th ch from hook, 1 dc into next 7 consecutive chain sts, (8 sts total) turn
Row 2                     ch3; 1 dc in next st, (increase): 2 dc in each of next 4 consecutive sts from prev row; 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn; Note: I increased the width by 4 sts (= by 50%)

Row 3                     ch4; skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts, *[ch1,  skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts]* - 2x  ch1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch;  (12 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch3; 1 dc in each of next 10 consecutive sts from prev row, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until you reach the desired length - I repeated these 2 rows nine more times (total 10x) - up till Row 22

Row 23                  ch3, 1 dc, (decrease): 2dc-tog in next 8 sts - 4x, 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total); Note: I decreased the width by 4 sts (= by 30%)

FINISHING

Sew or crochet two end pieces on each end of the scarf as INVISIBLY as possible (see a video above). Weave in all the ends.

If you want you can add a tassel on each end of the scarf, or just leave it alone (also see a video above). Put the scarf around the doll's neck and pull one end through the opening of the other end.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO MAKE THIS SCARF BIGGER?

First

THREE 9-ROW TRIANGLES

TRIANGLE #1
with 9 rows and 18 sts at the top should end up with 9 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 10 sts (8 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 4.5",  height 4".

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (16 sts total), turn
Row 8                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn
Row 9                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 16 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn

MIDDLE SCARF PART
You would have to start on 12 chain sts (9 for the base + 3 chain sts in place of dc). Crochet the first row so you have 10 dc sts total (9 dc + ch3 at the beginning).
If you would like to achieve a pattern presented in the video (and in Row 3 of the doll scarf above), you need to increase in the second row in such a way as to have a multiple of 3 sts + 3 extra sts (increase as evenly as possible) - this will be the width of your scarf. Example: (5x3)+3 = 18. Since you are starting with 10 sts, you would need to increase by 8 sts in order to have 18 sts for the pattern.

TRIANGLE #2
with 9 rows and 22 sts at the top should end up with 11 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 12 sts (10 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 5",  height 4".

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch3, 1 dc, ch1, 2 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; 2 dc in ch1, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (8 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (10 sts total), turn
Row 4                     cch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (12 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (14 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (16 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (18 sts total), turn
Row 8                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (20 sts total), turn
Row 9                     ch3; 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in ch1sp, then 1 dc in each of 14 consecutive sts, 2 dc in ch1sp, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (22 sts total), turn

TRIANGLE #3
This triangle has also  9 rows but 24 sts however I do not like the look of this triangle. So I will not write a pattern for it 😉

 

13-ROW TRIANGLE

This triangle is crocheted the same way as TRIANGLE #1, except it is 4 rows longer. It has 13 rows, and 26 sts at the top should end up with 13 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 14 sts (12 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 6.5",  height 5.5".

The Middle Scarf Part would start with 14+2 (16) chain stitches, where the first row would be total 13 dc + ch3. The second row could be increased to 21, 24, 27 or 30 sts, depending how wide you would like the scarf to be.

Consequently the number of decreased sts in the last row would have to be same as the increase in the second row.

WIDER STYLE OF TRIANGLE PATTERN #1:

Should you be interested in a wider version, I played with stitches and here is what I came up with. The last row has 22 sts, which yeilds 11 (+1) sts for the opening parts.

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 3 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (7 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; ch1, skip 3 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (9 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 sts, in ch1sp make 3dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (11 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 3 dc between dc sts, ch1, skip 3 st, 3 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (15 sts total), turn

Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts, ch1, skip 3 sts, 3 dc in ch1sp,  ch1, skip 2 sts, 2 dc between sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (17 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts, skip 2 st, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 3 st, ch1, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (19 sts total), turn

Row 8                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; ch1, skip 3 st, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 3 st, ch1, 2 dc between the sts, skip 2 sts, 2 dc between the sts, skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (21 sts total), turn

Row 9                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 8 consecutive sts, 2 dc in next st (increase), then 1 dc in each of 8 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (22 sts total)

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any size of the scarf) made by you, but you have to give me a credit.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Unisex Baby Hat On Straight Needles

A few weeks ago I had a request to make a video of a hat knitted on straight knitting needles. This hat is simple enough for any beginner that mastered cast on, bind off, knit and purl stitches, and can follow a tutorial on how to do decreases (in my video). Below you will find links to the videos (for right-handed and left-handed knitters) and also my written pattern.

The written pattern is for 6 months old baby (M size), but if you would like to knit the hat for a small (S size) baby, then cast on 8 stitches less (70 sts) and knit a lower number of rows to accommodate for the height of the smaller head (6 - 10 fewer rows). If you would like to knit the hat for a bigger baby (L size) then you can add 8 stitches (86 sts), and if needed knit more rows in the middle part. You would also adjust the number of stitches between decreases.

I decided to calculate stitches for Small and Large sizes for you - just in case, you would like to make a smaller or bigger hat.

Please let me know of any mathematical errors in my pattern.

Enjoy.

Videos:

FOR RIGHT HANDED KNITTERS

FOR LEFT HANDED KNITTERS - COMING SOON

Size:

Small and Large sizes are calculated mathematically, therefore the measurements are approximate. The Medium size is more accurate (my measured hat)

• head circumference - approx. S-12.5", M-14", L-15.5" (unstretched), up to 14"-18"-20" (stretched) 
• hat height - approx. 6"-7"-7.5"
• ribbing height  - 1"

Gauge:

10 sts & 20 rows = 2” (garter stitch)

Material:

• Yarn: 1 skein of KnitPicks, Bare, DK weight; 100% Merino wool; Color: hand-colored; 100 g; 246 yds; Note: you could also use either 1 ball of SWISH DK (100% Fine Superwash Merino), or 1 ball of CAPRA DK YARN (85%merino and 15% cashmere - these links are affiliated links.
• Straight knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm)
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle

Abbreviations:

S - small size (0-3 months)
M - medium size (6 months)

L - large size (9-12 months)

CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
sl last st wyf - slip first stitch purl-wise with yarn in front

CDD - Center Double Decrease - first insert your working needle knit-wise through the first two stitches on your main needle, then slip them off together (DO NOT knit them together, just slip them), knit the next stitch, and then pass both slipped stitches together over the stitch you just knitted 

st(s) - stitch(es)

Step-by-Step Directions:

Foundation - cast on 70-78-86 stitches

RIBBING:

Row 1-6            *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, turn

MIDDLE PART:

Let's start row count from 1

Rnd 1-43                K1tbl, K68-76-84, sl last st wyf

Knit until your middle part measures approximately 3.75"- 4.25"- 4.75". My middle part measured 4.25"

VERSION #1

DECREASING FOR THE TOP OF THE HAT:

This seam is one stitch off-center

This decrease part is written according to my video (see above), which I was making without any pattern. It was more or less free knitting - I was designing the hat as I was videotaping. However, the seam is one stitch off-center. 

If you want perfectly centered seam, see VERSION #2 with the CENTERED DECREASE  below.

Let's start row count from 1

Rnd 1                K1tbl, K8-9-10, CDD, *[K14-16-18, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K6-7-8, sl last st wyf

Rnd 2                K1tbl, K6-7-8, P1, *[K14-16-18, P1]* - repeat 3x, K8-9-10, sl last st wyf

Rnd 3                K1tbl, K7-8-9, CDD, *[K12-14-16, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K5-6-7, sl last st wyf

Rnd 4                K1tbl, KK5-6-7, P1, *[K12-14-16, P1]* - repeat 3x, K7-8-9, sl last st wyf

Rnd 5                K1tbl, K6-7-8, CDD, *[K10-12-14, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K4-5-6, sl last st wyf

Rnd 6                K1tbl, K4-5-6, P1, *[K10-12-14, P1]* - repeat 3x, K6-7-8, sl last st wyf

Rnd 7                K1tbl, K5-6-7, CDD, *[K8-10-12, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K3-4-5, sl last st wyf

Rnd 8                K1tbl, K3-4-5, P1, *[K8-10-12, P1]* - repeat 3x, K5-6-7, sl last st wyf

Rnd 9                K1tbl, K4-5-6, CDD, *[6-8-10, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K2-3-4, sl last st wyf

Rnd 10              K1tbl, K2-3-4, P1, *[K6-8-10, P1]* - repeat 3x, K4-5-6, sl last st wyf

Rnd 11              K1tbl, K3-4-5, CDD, *[K4-6-8, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K1-2-3, sl last st wyf

Rnd 12              K1tbl, K1-2-3, P1, *[K4-6-8, P1]* - repeat 3x, K3-4-5, sl last st wyf

Rnd 13              K1tbl, K2-3-4, CDD, *[K2-4-6, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K0-1-2, sl last st wyf

Rnd 14              K1tbl, K0-1-2, P1, *[K2-4-6, P1]* - repeat 3x, K2-3-4, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE SMALL HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Rnd 13              K1tbl, K2-3, CDD, *[K2-4, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K0-1, sl last st wyf

Rnd 14              K1tbl, K0-1, P1, *[K2-4, P1]* - repeat 3x, K2-3, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE MEDIUM HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Rnd 15              K1tbl, K2, CDD, *[K2, CDD]* - repeat 3x, sl last st wyf

Rnd 16              K1tbl, P1, *[K2, P1]* - repeat 3x, K2, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE LARGE HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

VERSION #2

PERFECTLY CENTERED DECREASE FOR THE TOP OF THE HAT AND CENTERED SEAM

Here you can see a perfectly centered seam

Let's start row count from 1

Rnd 1                K1tbl, K7-8-9, CDD, *[K14-16-18, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K7-8-9, sl last st wyf

Rnd 2                K1tbl, K7-8-9, P1, *[K14-16-18, P1]* - repeat 3x, K7-8-9, sl last st wyf

Rnd 3                K1tbl, K6-7-8, CDD, *[K12-14-16, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K6-7-8, sl last st wyf

Rnd 4                K1tbl, K6-7-8, P1, *[K12-14-16, P1]* - repeat 3x, K6-7-8, sl last st wyf

Rnd 5                K1tbl, K5-6-7, CDD, *[K10-12-14, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K5-6-7, sl last st wyf

Rnd 6                K1tbl, K5-6-7, P1, *[K10-12-14, P1]* - repeat 3x, K5-6-7, sl last st wyf

Rnd 7                K1tbl, K4-5-6, CDD, *[K8-10-12, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K4-5-6, sl last st wyf

Rnd 8                K1tbl, K4-5-6, P1, *[K8-10-12, P1]* - repeat 3x, K4-5-6, sl last st wyf

Rnd 9                K1tbl, K3-4-5, CDD, *[K6-8-10, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K3-4-5, sl last st wyf

Rnd 10              K1tbl, K3-4-5, P1, *[K6-8-10, P1]* - repeat 3x, K3-4-5, sl last st wyf

Rnd 11              K1tbl, K2-3-4, CDD, *[K4-6-8, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K2-3-4, sl last st wyf

Rnd 12              K1tbl, K2-3-4, P1, *[K4-6-8, P1]* - repeat 3x, K2-3-4, sl last st wyf

Rnd 13              K1tbl, K1-2-3, CDD, *[K2-4-6, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K1-2-3, sl last st wyf

Rnd 14              K1tbl, K1-2-3, P1, *[K2-4-6, P1]* - repeat 3x, K1-2-3, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE SMALL HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Rnd 13              K1tbl, K1-2, CDD, *[K2-4, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K1-2, sl last st wyf

Rnd 14              K1tbl, K1-2, P1, *[K2-4, P1]* - repeat 3x, K1-2, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE MEDIUM HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Rnd 15              K1tbl, K1, CDD, *[K2, CDD]* - repeat 3x, K1, sl last st wyf

Rnd 16              K1tbl, K1, P1, *[K2, P1]* - repeat 3x, K1, sl last st wyf

FINISHING THE LARGE HAT:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the remaining stitches, make a knot. Then sew your sides together (line up your stitches well) and weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (a hat) made by you. Don't forget to credit me.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Sunny Day Hat

In January, I knitted hats and socks for my neighbors' newborn twins from Cloudborn Fibers (see the image below). I used Rose Heather, Powder Blue, and Antique White colors. I am kind of sad because I didn't take a good picture of my hats, just a couple of snapshots at night. However, two months ago I decided to make a video, how to knit these hats. I used two balls of yarn (one green and one yellow), which I bought on sale about three years ago. As I am writing this post, I realized that Bernat's Cotton-ish yarn (which I used while recording my video) is discontinued. At home, I have a yarn very similar in weight/cotton/acrylic blend - Premier Yarns, Cotton Fair. If you wish to knit this hat you may have to substitute Bernat's yarn with Premier Yarns. I also found a website that may help you with other substitutions - CLICK ON THIS LINK.

I cast the pink and blue hats on 80 stitches because the yarn is slightly thinner than the yellow/green yarn. I cast my yellow/green hat on 70 sts. The decreases for the top and the number of rows were the same - the only difference was in how many stitches I pulled the yarn through. 

You can adjust this hat to any size just by calculating how many "10 stitch repeats" and how many "row repeats" you need. You would not have to change anything regarding decreases except how many times you need to repeat them, because decreases are the same in each repeat. However, in your last row, you would end up with more stitches that you'd have to pull yarn through. In my pink and blue hats, I had to pull yarn through 40 stitches (8 stitch repeats), in my yellow/green hat I pulled the yarn through 35 sts (7 stitch repeats).

This pattern uses slip-stitches. It is a very simple pattern, easy to do even for a novice knitter. You can either follow my Step-by-Step (row-by-row) pattern or you can click on any video (for righties or lefties) below. Or follow both - the written pattern and the video.

Videos:

FOR RIGHT HANDED KNITTERS

FOR LEFT HANDED KNITTERS

Original Hat and Socks For Newborn Twins - HandMadeRukodelky ©2020

Size:

• head circumference - 12" (unstretched), up to 15" (stretched)
• hat height - 6.5"
• ribbing height  - 2.25"

Gauge:

12 sts & 15 rows = 2” (stockinette)

Materials:

Any yarn similar to Bernat's Cotton-ish that is DK Weight (thicker than Sport weight, thinner than Worsted weight); cotton/acrylic blend; you will need two complementary colors (1 ball of Main Color, less than 1/2 ball Complimentary color)

Knitting Needle: I used US 5 (3.75 mm) needles

Yarn needle

Scissors 

Abbreviation:
DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise

K2tog - Knit 2 stitches together

SSK - slip 1st stitch knit-wise, slip 2nd st knitwise, place them back on the initial needle, then knit both sts through the back loop

st(s) - stitch(es)

Step-by-Step Directions:
Pattern repeat - 10 sts, and 14 rows.

Start foundation with MC color on knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm) - cast on 70 stitches

PATTERN (knitted in the round):

RIBBING:

Row 1            (MC) *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches among 3 DPNs (or use circular needles with a long cable and magic loop), without twisting your knitted row, connect stitches into a circle

Rnd 2-20       (MC) *[K1, P1]* - to end

PATTERN PART:

Let's start row count from 1

Rnd 1                (CC) K70

Rnd 2                (CC) P70

Rnd 3-7             *[sl 2 CC st pw; K8 MC]* - 7x

Rnd 8                (CC) K70

Rnd 9                (CC) P70

Rnd 10-14         *[K5 MC; sl 2 CC st pw; K3 MC]* - 7x

Repeat Rnds 1-14 one more time (total 28 rows)

DECREASING FOR THE TOP OF THE HAT:

Let's start row count from 1

Rnd 1                (CC) K70

Rnd 2                (CC) P70

Rnd 3                *[sl 2 CC st pw; MC- K1, K2tog, K2, SSK, K1]* - 7x

Rnd 4-6             *[sl 2 CC st pw; K6 MC]* - 7x

Rnd 7                *[sl 2 CC st pw; MC- K2tog, K2, SSK]* - 7x

Rnd 8                (CC) K70

Rnd 9                (CC) P70

Rnd 10-11         *[K3 MC; sl 2 CC st pw; K1 MC]* - 7x

Rnd 12              *[MC - K2tog, K1; sl 2 CC st pw; K1 MC]* - 7x

Rnd 13-14         *[K2 MC; sl 2 CC st pw; K1 MC]* - 7x

Rnd 15              (CC) K35

Rnd 16              (CC) P35

FINISHING:

With the use of hook pull yarn through all the stitches, make a knot. Then weave in all your loose ends (tails).

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (a hat) made by you. Don't forget to credit me.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Marigolds By The Lake - Baby Set

MISTI ALPACA - a wonderfully soft yarn for any baby project. This is a sock yarn, but it is so soft that any baby will love to wear it. The yarn is 50% Alpaca, 30% Merino, 10% silk, and 10% Nylon. You cannot go wrong.

I am a big fan - look for a video where I will show you my niece's baby wearing the hat, gloves, and socks I knitted as a gift. 

Should you want to knit it yourself here is a link to a free pattern in my RAVELRY SHOP.

Enjoy.

IF YOU'D LOVE TO KNIT ALONG WITH MY VIDEOS, VISIT MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL. There are many videos for right-handed knitters and for left-handed knitters as well.

Copyright:
You may NOT sell my written pattern or publish it as YOUR own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) you made.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

A Simple Lap Blanket Or Scarf/Shawl/Poncho - Free Pattern And Video Tutorial

Crochet this beautiful blanket by using only one-row repeat. I made this lap blanket for a Cancer Center in my town, but you can make it for a child too. The pattern is a very simple, no stress pattern. If you are fairly new to crocheting art, and if you can do a chain, single crochet, and double crochet stitches, then you can make this blanket - an easy fun project. All you have to do a couple of rows for the edge, then one row of the setup row, and after that, you repeat just one row over-and-over until the desired length. Use your leftovers or buy one or two/three big skeins of yarn, and turn this pattern into your own personalized blanket or a scarf. Or a shawl, or a poncho. You can buy several different colors of skeins and make a temperature blanket. (A while back I knitted "SKY SCARF".)

This pattern requires multiples of 5 stitches plus 2 extra edge stitches - one stitch on each side. But you could add 2 extra stitches to your multiples and have 2 stitches on each side. For the blanket, I did 29 repeats (145+edge stitches). For the scarf, I personally would do 9 repeats (45+edge stitches), but if you would like the scarf to be 12" wide and 60" long then you may do 11 repeats and crochet to your desired length. If you would like to do a shawl (28" wide and 80" long) then you may need approximately 24 repeats and again crochet until your desired length.

Keep in mind that the tension is important too - if your tension is different from mine, then you may add or decrease your stitches. Also if you use thinner yarn and smaller hook then you need to add more stitches.

MY VERY DETAILED TUTORIAL VIDEOS:

• FOR RIGHT-HANDED CROCHETERS CLICK HERE
• FOR LEFT-HANDED CROCHETERS CLICK HERE

Two different edges - tan-colored example with single crochet edge & blue-colored example with double crochet edge

Size:
Width - 35"
Length - 54"
145 sts will give you 29 repeats

Material:
Yarn - leftover yarns (such as Lion Brand "Pound Of Love", and Loops & Threads "Snuggly Wuggly"); 100% acrylic; weight worsted #4; yardage - unknown
Hook - H, 5 mm
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch - chain stitch
st/sts - stitch/stitches
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
ch sp - chain stitch space
prev - previous

• Blanket With Single Crochet Edge

Foundation for the blanket:
If you are working with single crochet stitches for your edge you need to chain 145+2 (total 147 sts).

Row 1          1 sc into second st from hook, then 1 sc into each consecutive st to end, turn

Row 2          1 sc through the front loop into each st to end, turn

Row 3          ch3 (edge st), skip 2 sts, make 2 dc + ch1 + 2 dc into 3rd st, *[skip 4 sts, make 2 dc + ch1 + 2 dc into 5th st]* - repeat until 2 sts are left, skip 1 st, 1 dc into last st (edge st), turn

Row 4          ch3, *[make 2 dc + ch1 + 2 dc into ch sp from prev. row]* - repeat to end, finish with 1 dc in the last st, turn

Repeat Row 4 as many times as needed. 

Finish the blanket with 2 last rows as such:

Row 1          1 sc into each consecutive st to end, turn

Row 2          1 sc through the front loop into each st to end

Weave in all the tails (ends).

• Blanket With Double Crochet Edge

Foundation for the blanket:

If you are working with double crochet stitches for your edge, then you will need 145+4 stitches (total 149 sts).

Row 1          1 dc into fourth st from hook, then 1 dc into each consecutive st to end, turn

Row 2          ch3, then1 dc through the front loop into each st to end, turn

Row 3          ch3 (edge st), skip 2 sts, make 2 dc + ch1 + 2 dc into 3rd st, *[skip 4 sts, make 2 dc + ch1 + 2 dc into 5th st]* - repeat until 2 sts are left, skip 1 st, 1 dc into last st (edge st), turn
Row 4          ch3, *[make 2 dc + ch1 + 2 dc into ch sp from prev. row]* - repeat to end, finish with 1 dc in the last st, turn

Repeat Row 4 as many times as needed. 

Finish the blanket with 2 last rows as such:

Row 1          ch3, then 1 dc into each consecutive st to end, turn

Row 2          ch3, then 1 dc through the front loop into each st to end

Weave in all the tails (ends).

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

B&W Fuzzy Scarf With iCord Edge For Fashion-conscious

Today, I would like to write about knitting my black and white fuzzy scarf, which I absolutely love.

Not too long ago I went to check out a yarn store that I like to visit occasionally. In this store, they had a knitted dark gray caplet with green fuzzy pieces sticking out and green edging around it. The effect of the green edging vs. green fuzzy pieces sticking out of the gray yarn was divine.

Then, I noticed they had these fuzzies in different colors too. One of them was a yarn with fuzzy white tufts. I knew right away that this yarn would be perfect for a scarf, which would go well with my white jacket that has black trim. So I bought four skeins of the fuzzy yarn and two skeins (per store owner's recommendation) for the trim. I had a hunch that I will not need two skeins for the trim. Instead, I should have bought five of the fuzzy yarns and one for the trim. Well, that's OK, I will make good use of the leftover white yarn in the future.

Knitting with "Lang Yarns" is not complicated. For my project, I used a seed stitch so my edges would not curl and my scarf would have a reversible effect. I could have used a garter stitch also, but I thought that seed stitch would allow for a longer scarf.

After wearing my scarf, I noticed that the tufts shed, which is fine with me because I wear my new scarf with my white jacket that has a nylon surface. But I cannot wear it with a cotton fabric, because I would look like I played with a dog.

I made a detailed video too. Enjoy.


VIDEO FOR RIGHT-HANDED

VIDEO FOR LEFT-HANDED

Materials:
Yarn

• Lang Yarns, "Drago"; Color: 999.0094 (white tufts); Fiber: 41% Mohair - 25% Wool - 18% Nylon - 16% Acrylic; 50g/1.75 oz; 110 yds/100 m; Care: Use detergent for fine wash without softener
• Berrocco, "Comfort"; Color: 9700 Chalk; Fiber: 50% Super Fine Nylon, 50% Super Fine Acrylic; 100g/3.5 oz; 210 yds; 

Knitting Needles - Long needles - 6.00 mm (for scarf); 2 short DPNs - size 5.5mm (for an i-cord)
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
st, sts - stitch, stitches
WS - wrong side
RS - right side
K2togtbl - knit two stitches together through the back loop
BO - bind off



Gauge:
My gauge corresponds to a manufacturer's gauge on the yarn label

Size:
Length: 33"
Width: 7"

Step-by-Step:

Using Lang Yarns knit a rectangle of our desired width and length

Working with two long knitting needles CO 49 sts (or your desired number of stitches). I CO an odd number of stitches to work every row the same way (the seed stitch)

Row 1-??          (RS) *[K1, P1]* repeat to last st, K1

Knit as many rows as desired, do not bind off.

Work along the last row

CO 3 (or 4) stitches onto DPN and bind off using an i-cord technique. When finished with binding off, work using two DPNs - knit 3 rows in the round (K3), then (if you are right-handed) work i-cord as such:

Work along 1st long side

Rnd 1               pick one loop (leading yarn) along the side with your left END of your DPN (that has 3 sts on it), slide all 4 stitches toward the right side, K2, K2togtbl (white and dark stitches)

Rnd 2               pick second loop (leading yarn) along the side with your left END of your DPN (that has 3 sts on it), slide all 4 stitches toward the right side, K2, K2togtbl (= white and dark stitches)

Rnd 3               slide all 3 stitches toward the right side, K3

Repeat until you reach next corner, then knit 3 rows in the round (K3)

Work along the CO side (the bottom)

Rnd 1-49          pick each loop (every CO stitch) along the bottom with your left END of your DPN (that has 3 sts on it), slide all 4 stitches toward the right side, K2, K2togtbl (white and dark stitches)

Repeat until you reach next corner, then knit 3 rows in the round (K3)

Work along 1st long side

Rnd 1               pick one loop (leading yarn) along the side with your left END of your DPN (that has 3 sts on it), slide all 4 stitches toward the right side, K2, K2togtbl (white and dark stitches)

Rnd 2               pick second loop (leading yarn) along the side with your left END of your DPN (that has 3 sts on it), slide all 4 stitches toward the right side, K2, K2togtbl (= white and dark stitches)

Rnd 3               slide all 3 stitches toward the right side, K3

Repeat until you reach next corner, then knit 2 rows in the round (K3) - finish the i-cord by sewing both ends together and weave in all loose ends.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.