KNITTED SLEEVELESS LACE BLOUSE - Size Medium

I find myself often looking at all different yarns, thick and thin, colorful or natural, single color, hand painted. I find the artistry behind yarn-making fascinating. I also love variegated yarns - the ones that appeal to my eye and style.

About half a year ago I was scrolling through some websites with yarns and came across Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno. There were several very pretty variegated balls on display. So I bought 4 different skeins. Among them, I added to my cart one that was semi-neutral, in a sage/gray color.

Unfortunately, this yarn is now discontinued (what else is new), but you may still find it somewhere on the world wide web. 

If it is out of your reach, you could substitute this yarn with another one - but make sure it is #2 weight (sock yarn thickness). You could use THIS link to find a similar yarn. Or see THIS sparkly yarn from Amazon (an affiliate link).

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra.

Material:

• Approximately 200g of Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno; color 003; 70% Cotton, 19% Merino, 11% Alpaca; 570m/150 g per ball
• DPNs, Circulars Knitting Needles, Long Knitting Needles - US size #5 (3.75 mm)
• Hook 3.75 mm 
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:

• Women US Medium

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

• on US knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 6 sts x 8 rows

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
m1 - increase by making one stitch (I used m1R; you could also increase by knitting below your next stitch)
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
K2tog - knit two stitches together
M - stitch marker
eM - edge marker
bobble = 2hdc bobble - with crochet hook pull a loose loop through the next stitch, YO, pull a 2nd loop, YO, pull a 3rd loop (5 loops on the hook), pull yarn through all 5 loops; bring the hook behind your bobble and pick up the stitch just below the bobble and pull this stitch through the stitch on the hook; lastly, transfer the stitch from the hook onto the working needle
CDD - slip the next two stitches from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to knit; knit the next stitch; insert the left knitting needle into the two slipped stitches and pull them over the knitted stitch
KTBL - knit through the back loop
SLS - slip last stitch purl-wise with yarn in front
m1R - make one right (increase)
m1L - make one left (increase)
CCO - cable cast-on
RS - right side
WS - wrong side

NOTE:
While knitting this blouse I used 3 types of knitting needles - long needles, DPNs, and circular needles, each time switching to the best type to knit with.

Step-by-Step Directions:

SECTION #1

Foundation: to start knitting yoke cast on 112 stitches

Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, join needles into a circle
Rnd 2-6       *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row
Rnd 7          *[K7, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 8-9       K128
Rnd 10        *[K8, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 11-12    K144
Rnd 13        *[K9, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 14-16   K160
Rnd 17        *[K10, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 176 sts

SECTION #2 - PATTERN PART

Work the "8 stitch/10 rows" pattern (the bobble could be substituted with K1 instead):

Rnd 1        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 2        K176
Rnd 3        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 4        K176
Rnd 5        *[YO, SSK, K1, bobble, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 6        K176
Rnd 7        *[K1, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, M]* - 22x
Rnd 8        K176
Rnd 9        *[K2, YO, CDD, YO, K3, M]* - 22x
Rnd 10       K176; remove your markers

SECTION #3

Continue working the yoke; start counting from 1

Rnd 1        *[K11, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 192 sts
Rnd 2-4     K192
Rnd 5        *[K12, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 208 sts
Rnd 6-7     K208

SECTION #4

At this point organize your stitches by placing markers as such:

Rnd 8        (back part) K10, eM, K44, eM, K10, M; (first sleeve) K43, M; (front part) K10, eM, K38, eM, K10, M; (the second sleeve) K43, M (end of the row)

Rnd 9      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K38, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

Rnd 10      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K16, increase in each of next 6 sts as such: *[K1, YO, K1]*, K16, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M (total 220 sts)

Rnd 11-13  (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

In the next row bind off your sleeves, and place your front part on the holder (a thick string of yarn); when finished with your 14th round start working on your back part

Rnd 14       (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x; BO 43 sleeve sts; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; BO 43 sleeve sts; do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BACK PART

Keep working back and forth - odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side, start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K44, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (64 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 44, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K44, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (66 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K46, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K46, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (68 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K48, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K48, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 90 sts total. Fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - FRONT PART

Work back and forth just like you worked "the back part" starting on the right side (odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side), and start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K52, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K52, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (74 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K54, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K54, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (76 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K56, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K56, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (78 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P58, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 96 sts total. Do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BODY

From now on work in the round on the right side, and start counting from 1

Rnd 1       (front part) KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K76, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS and to join the back part: *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, m1R, K70, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS; join your knit to work in the round (204 sts)

Rnd 2-6     (front part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K78, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (back part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K72, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x;  (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (204 sts)

Rnd 7-?     K204 (remove all eMs) - after you knit your desired length, finish your blouse with a few rows of *[K1, P1]* edging, and then weave in all your ends.

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any item) made by you. Credit me, please.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

TANGERINE TOP

ENJOY MY LATEST PROJECT - AN AIRY TOP (BLOUSE OR SWEATER) KNITTED FROM A LACY FUZZY YARN WITH LARGER-SIZED KNITTING NEEDLES, WITH 3D SLEEVES.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

Material:

• Yarn - DIABLO; Colors: 4 balls of Yellow Ochre (#18); Lace (#1); 30% Mohair, 30% Nylon, 40% Acrylic; 0.9 oz/25g; 246 yds/225 m; 
• Knitting needles #9 (5.5 mm)
• Markers
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

st/sts - stitch/stitches
K2tog - knit two stitches together (decrease)
SSK - slip 2 stitches (one at a time), place them back on the needle and knit them through the back loop (decrease)

CO extra st - cast on an extra stitch between short rows to close the hole

PM - place marker

K1B - increase by knitting 1 stitch below the next stitch (then knit next st)

YO - yarn over

BO - bind off

Gauge (stockinette st):

4" x 4" = 16 sts x 22 rows

Size:

Oversized small, or regular medium women's size

Measurements (measured flat): 

Step-by-Step Directions:

This blouse is knitted from bottom to top. 

BODY PART

CO 140 sts. Knit in the round.

Row 1-12             *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end of row (70x)

Row 13-80            K140

Divide 140 stitches into 2 halves - 70 sts for your back, and 70 sts for the front. Knit back and forth. Work your back first, then the front. 

BACK PART OF THE BODY

Row 81               K68

Row 82               P66, put the first 2 sts and last 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, they will be part of the sleeves
Row 83               K66

Row 84               P66

Repeat Rows 83 & 84 thirteen more times, up to Row 110.

Row 111              BO 7 sts, K to end

Row 112              BO 7 sts, P to end

Repeat Rows 111 & 112 two more times, up to Row 116.

Row 117              K24
Row 118              P24

FRONT PART OF THE BODY

Row 81               put the first 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, start the new ball, and K66; put the last 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, they will be part of the sleeves

Row 82               P66
Row 83               K66

Row 84               P66

Repeat Rows 83 & 84 nine more times, up to Row 102.

We will make a "U" shaped neck area, and then BO for the shoulders. Start on the first side of the front on the RIGHT (KNIT) side.

FIRST HALF OF THE UPPER FRONT

Row 103              K28, do not work with the last 38 sts on the needle (you may put them on the stitch holder)

Row 104              P28

Row 105              K25, three stitches left on the needle

Row 106              P25

Row 107              K23, three + two stitches left on the needle

Row 108              P23

Row 109              K21, three + two + two stitches left on the needle

Row 110              P21

Row 111              K21

Row 112              P21

Row 113              BO 7 sts, K13

Row 114              P14

Row 115              BO 7 sts, K6

Row 116              P7

Row 117              BO 7 sts, leave a long tail for sewing the shoulder area together

SECOND HALF OF THE UPPER FRONT

Start on the second side of the front on the RIGHT (KNIT) side; from the middle.

Row 103              Leave the first 10 sts on the stitch holder, then K28 to end

Row 104              P25, three stitches left on the needle

Row 105              K25

Row 106              P23, three + two stitches left on the needle (total 5 sts)

Row 107              K23

Row 108              P21, three + two + two stitches left on the needle  (total 7 sts)

Row 109              K21

Row 110              P21

Row 111              K21

Row 112              BO 7 sts, P13

Row 113              K14

Row 114              BO 7 sts, P6

Row 115              K 7

Row 116              BO 7 sts, do not fasten off the yarn, use it for knitting the edge

Sew the front and back shoulder areas together (on both sides). Knit a neckband/edge in the round as such:

Row 1                  Starting at your back part and on the RIGHT side of the knit, K24; CO 8 sts along straight side; K2; CO extra st; K2; CO extra st; K3; CO extra st; K10; CO extra st; K3;  CO extra st; K2;  CO extra st; K2; CO 8 sts along straight side; (total 70 sts = 24+8+2+1+2+1+3+1+10+1+3+1+2+1+2+8)
Row 2-6               *[K1, P1]* - to end (35x)
Row 7                   BO

SLEEVES - make two

Start in the underarm area. 

Row 1                    CO 24 stitches along the front (or back) arm area, then CO 24 stitches along the back (or front) area, and K4 (stitchers that are on your stitch holder) - make sure there are no holes between the CO stitches and 4 underarm stitches, PM

Row 2                    K2tog, K44, SSK, K4 (50 sts total)

Row 3-10               *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Row 11                   *[K1; then increase by K1B & K1 regularly - 5x; K1, P3]* - 5x (total 75 sts)

Row 12-19             *[K12, P3]* - 5x (total 75 sts)
Row 20                  *[K1; then decrease by K2tog - 5x; K1, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)
Row 21-30             *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Repeat Rows 11-30 three more times (90 rows more)

Finish with 10 more rows (or as many as you need)

Row 121-130        *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Row 131                BO all sts

When you knit both sleeves, weave in all the ends. 

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (sweater/blouse/top) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

BEEHIVE SWEATER

I knew this project would take a long time to finish when I started it at the end of Spring. Not only because knitting cables is more time-consuming than just simple knitting, but I tend to start other projects as well. So, if you want to knit this "Beehive Sweater," give yourself ample time to finish it on time. If you want to knit the sweater, you need to know how to cast on, how to knit "knit" and "purl" stitches, C4F and C4B stitches, and how to bind off. 

If you are attempting to knit cables for the first time, do not despair. I have several videos grouped into a playlist for this project. Yes, my videos can be lengthy at times. But if you feel you understand what I am demonstrating, skip those parts. And if you don't understand, what is happening, play the video again. I hope you will find these videos helpful.

I knitted this sweater in a rectangle way.  (See the diagram below). Sleeves can be knitted as rectangles or tapered. You decide if you want them wide, or more narrow around the wrist area.

I also would like to talk about how you can size this sweater. It seems that 12 rows and 16 stitches both measure three inches (3"). So, from this knowledge, draw a plan of how wide and long your sweater should be. Don't forget to consider that if you wash your finished sweater, it may stretch - my small size turned into nearly a medium size. However, my daughter loves this oversized and cozy gift. The sleeves are longer than I anticipated. I suggested to my daughter that I would shorten them - it would be no problem since they are knitted from the shoulder down toward the wrist. However, she refused me to fix "the problem." So with this knowledge, you can decide how many repeat cables in rows and stitches you prefer. Also, consider having the sweater dry cleaned.

Now, let me talk a little about the head opening. In the video, I am demonstrating the binding off 44 stitches. You can also see that I had to rip it because the head opening was too big (it would, most likely, work better for a larger person). Instead, the second time around, I bound off 36 stitches. (See the image above of how it looks after I washed the sweater). I feel it would be even better if I bound off 28 stitches, but my daughter loves it as it is. The binding off 28 stitches, few shoulder rows, and casting on 28 stitches would make the head opening hug the neck area, yet it would have enough space to pull the sweater over the head. So again, using this information, you can tailor your project to any person's body and what the person prefers.

I doubled the strands because I didn't have any chunky yarn at hand. However, I had nearly 2 kilos of Knit Picks DK Merino. You may replace it with chunky yarn if you wish. Perhaps you would love to use light and fluffy (chunky) yarn instead of merino. Then all you have to do is a swatch to make sure you will size your work correctly. 

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS

"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS

STAY TUNED for the "Half-Balls" pattern (you can see them on the model in the design above). The remaining videos will be added as I finish editing them. ENJOY and share your work 😉🙂🌸

Size: Small (oversized), or Medium (more fitting)

Material:

• Yarn - 16 skeins of KNIT PICKS, Bare - DOUBLED; Colors: Natural; DK (#3); 100% Merino; 246 yds/100g; (12 skeins for a sweater, and 4 skeins for 1/2 balls)
• Knitting needles (straights, circulars, DPNs) #11 (8 mm)
• Markers
  
• Hook 6 mm
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

st, sts - stitch, stitches 
M - marker

C4F - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in front of your knitting

C4B - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in the back of your knitting

CCO - cable cast-on

BO - bind off

Cable Stitch Pattern Repeat

Gauge (cable):

3"x 3" = 16 sts x 12 rows

Step-by-Step Directions:

FRONT PART

CO 108 sts

Row 1            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 2            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn

Repeat Row 1 & 2 two more times (Row 3-6)

Note: From now on use knit sts only for the cables (knit sts on the right side, purl sts on the wrong side)

Row 7            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #1)
Row 8            P108
Row 9            K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11          K108
Row 12          P108

Row 13          K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #2)
Row 14          P108
Row 15          K108
Row 16          P108
Row 17          K108
Row 18          P108

Repeat Rows 7-18 as many times as needed. I repeated these twelve rows 7x in total before starting my shoulder area. If you would like your sweater longer repeat Rows 7-18  one or more extra times.

Then repeat rows 7-13 again as such:

Row 7            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 8            P108
Row 9            K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11          K108
Row 12          P108

Row 13          K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2

Then continue your front as such (NECK AREA RIBBING):

Row 14          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 15          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn
Row 16          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 17          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn
Row 18          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 19          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn

Work on the head opening = BO stitches in the middle as such:

Row 1            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, next C4F - BUT knit only the 2 back (purl) sts !! and BO 2 knit sts; then BO 32 sts, THEN start your C4B - but BO 2 knit sts, then BO 1 purl st and knit 1 back (purl) sts (these two sts will be part of your shoulder, 36 sts);  finish the row with *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, and K2, turn 

At this point, you will turn your work around and work on the first shoulder part. 

SHOULDER #1

Row 2            P36
Row 3            K36
Row 4            P36
Row 5            K36
Row 6            P36
Row 7            K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8            P36
Row 9            K36

DO NOT FASTEN OFF (don't cut off your yarn). 

With a different skein work on the second shoulder.

SHOULDER #2

Row 2            start working on the wrong side - attach a different skein; P36
Row 3            K36
Row 4            P36
Row 5            K36
Row 6            P36
Row 7            K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8            P36
Row 9            K36

BACK PART

Continue working on your back part starting with the yarn on Shoulder #1:

Row 10            P36, CCO 36 sts, P36 sts from Shoulder #2  (Note: put a marker in this row on each side - this will be the middle mark for your future sleeves.)
Row 11            K108
Row 12            P108

Starting with Row 13 - repeat Cable Rows 7-18 (= "12-Row Repeat") from FRONT PART eight times (8x) in total. 
(If you knitted your front longer than the written pattern for the front, knit as many EXTRA "row repeats" as you did for the front part.)

After you knit your last "12-Row Repeat" finish your BACK PART with the last cable row and then 4/4 ribbing as such:

Row 1            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 2            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 3            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn
Row 4            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 5            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn
Row 6            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 7            BO all sts, fasten off

SLEEVES - make 2 (one on each side of the sweater)

There are 4 ways to make your sleeves.

1. Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them in the round (use either DPNs or circulars)
2. Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them back and forth
3. Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a knitting needle and knit them back and forth
4. Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a circular needle (or DPN) and knit them in the round

If you choose to work back and forth (as in #2 & #3 ways), you will follow all odd rows (1, 3, 5.... etc) as written below. All your even rows (2, 4, 6... etc.) will be worked on the wrong side, which means you will purl every even row, except the 4/4 ribbing.

Cast on 78 stitches along the side of your front/back part. The middle of the sleeve width should correspond with the row where you casted-on for the back part and where you put your marker. You should CO 39 sts from the front and 39 sts from the back into EVERY row. (The tightness of the cable pattern makes the cast on nicely even and flat. There is no need to skip or add stitches. The seam should not be warped or pulling.) 

This sleeve pattern is for knitting in the round. Sleeves come out long. If you want them shorter you may adjust your rows.

After you CO your 78 sts, start knitting in the round (on DPNs or Circular needles) as such:

Rnd 1-3             K78

Rnd 4                   K3, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 5-9                K78
Rnd 10                 K3, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 11-14            K78
Rnd 15                 (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K72, SSK, K1 (76 sts)

Rnd 16                 K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 17-21            K76
Rnd 22                 K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 23-26            K76
Rnd 27                 (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K70, SSK, K1 (74 sts)

Rnd 28                  K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 29-33             K74
Rnd 34                  K1, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 35-39             K74
Rnd 40                  K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 41-44             K74
Rnd 45                   (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K68, SSK, K1(72 sts)

Rnd 46                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 47-51              K72

Rnd 52                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 53-57               K72
Rnd 58                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 59-63              K72

Rnd 64                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 65-69              K72
Rnd 70                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 71-75              K72

Rnd 76                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 77-83              *[K2, P4, K2]* - 9x

Rnd 84                    BO

Finishing:

Sew/crochet sides (= back to front) together, and weave in all the ends. If you desire, you could crochet half-balls (video coming soon), or buy acrylic pom-poms, and sew/tie them into the "dimples" between the cables.

CROCHETED HALF BALLS

Double the yarn.

To start: leave about 1 foot long tail, then wrap yarn around your index and middle finger (make magic loop) and croche into the loop as such: ch2, then make 7 (or eight) unfinished dc (only half way through) - you shoud have 8 (or nine) loops on your hook; then pull yarn through all 8 (9) loops, and make last chain (or rather knot). Pull on the yarn tight. Leaving second tail about 1 foot.

To finish - either color the "half balls" while still flat, OR pull on the first tail (the magic loop tail) to form the half ball and color then. 

As soon as I have this video edited you will be able to see it in the playlist above.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

PINK HEAVEN - GIRLS TOP DOWN SUMMER DRESS

Hello, my virtual knitting friends. Not too long ago, I received yarn from "ICE YARNS" (a yarn company in  Turkey) in support of my dress design for a two-year-old girl. The yarn is called "Baby Merino." It is a combination of merino, acrylic, and polyamide yarns. The materials in this yarn make it easy to take care of the finished product. Wash it on a gentle cycle in cool water with like items and lay it flat to dry.

As the name of the yarn suggests, the company developed it for baby knits. I just adore the combination of pink-gray-white colors, and so these were the colors I picked to use for knitting this girl's dress. 

I carried the dress idea in my head for a while - finally, today I finished it, which I can publish another free written pattern for you.

While knitting this dress, you need to know how to do these stitches: Knit, purl, m1R, m1L, m1P, bobble, YO, and knit below 4 stitches. No worries if you do not know how to do some of the stitches - I show my viewers how to knit these stitches in my video (for right-handed knitters and left-handed knitters also.) 

 If you would like to knit this dress, you will have to buy the yarn online. One way is to contact the ICE  YARNS company (however, they sell their yarns in bulk), or visit THIS WEBSITE,  or find your yarn via eBay, or Etsy. 

Also, according to measurements, it is for a 2-year-old toddler. If you want to make it for a 3-year-old you may increase strap stitches from 30 sts to 36 sts (make it wider around the body), so instead of 36-30-36-30 stitches, you would have 36-36-36-36 sts. For a 4-year-old girl, I would increase the front, back, and strap stitches to 42-36-42-36, where 42 sts would represent the straps and 36 sts would represent the back/front parts. However, you need to use your judgment. Of course with more stitches in your body area, the number count would change accordingly.

If you'd love to knit along with me - click on either link below (depending on if you are rightie or leftie).

VIDEO "PINK HEAVEN" FOR RIGHTIES

VIDEO "PINK HEAVEN" FOR LEFTIES

SOON THERE WILL BE A CROCHET VERSION OF THIS DRESS.

ENJOY.

Material:

• Yarn - ICE YARNS, Baby Merino; Colors: 2 balls of Salmon, 1 ball of White, and 1 ball of Gray; Sport (#2); 40% Merino, 40% Acrylic, 20% Polyamide; 1.76 oz/50g; 218 yds/200 m; 
• Knitting needles #3 (3.25 mm)
• Markers
  
• Hook 2.75 mm
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl
M - marker

m1L - pick a leading strand between the stitches by inserting a needle front to back and knit a stitch leaning to the left
m1R - pick a leading strand between the stitches by inserting a needle back to front and knit a stitch leaning to the right

m1P - using the m1R technique (insert a needle back to front) purl the stitch instead of knitting it

B - bobble: with a knitting needle or a hook pull yarn through the stitch to the desired height of the bobble (keep it on the needle, do not drop it just yet), then YO and pull yarn through the same stitch - do this 3 times (7 loops on your needle or hook), then pull yarn through all the seven loops, and pull yarn again through the stitch you just made, then pull yarn through the stitch right below the stitch you were working your bobble in, and lastly pull the yarn through the two loops. If you used a hook, place the stitch on your working needle and continue knitting (see the video)

YO - yarn over

K4b - insert your knitting needle through your 4th stitch below the next stitch (keep it on your needle) and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle (see the video)

BO - bind off

Gauge (stockinette st):

4" x 4" = 22 sts x 30 rows

Measurements (measured flat): 

Step-by-Step Directions:

This dress is knitted top-down. CO 132 sts with Salmon color yarn.

Knit with Salmon color yarn:

Row 1             P132, join into a circle

Note: if you are knitting on DPNs, distribute stitches among 4 DPNs as such: 36-30-36-30; if you are knitting on circular needles, place a marker between the above-mentioned stitches.
Rnd 2             P132
Rnd 3             *[K1, m1L, K34, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K28, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 4             K140
Rnd 5             *[K1, m1L; *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 6x; m1R, K1; M, K1, m1L;  *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 5x ; m1R, K1; M, ]* - repeat everything in square [ ] 2x

Rnd 6             K148

Rnd 7             *[P1, m1P, P38, m1P, P1; M ; P1, m1P, P32, m1P, P1; M ; ]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 8             P156

Knit with White color yarn:

Rnd 9             *[K1, m1L, K40, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K34, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 10            K164
Rnd 11           *[K1, m1L, K42, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K36, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 12            K172

Knit with Gray color yarn:

Rnd 13            *[K1, m1L, K44, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K38, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x

Rnd 14            P180
Rnd 15            *[P1, m1P, P46, m1P, P1; M ; P1, m1P, P40, m1P, P1; M ; ]* - repeat 2x

Rnd 16             K188
Rnd 17             *[K1, m1L, K48, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K42, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x

Rnd 18             *[K2, *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 8x; K2; M, K2, *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 7x ; K2; M, ]* - repeat everything in square [ ] 2x (196 sts)

Rnd 19             *[K1, m1L, K50, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K44, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x (204 sts)

Rnd 20             P204
Rnd 21             BO purl-wise 54 sts, P48 (front), BO purl-wise 54 sts, P48 (back)

Start knitting with Salmon color on your front as such: 

Rnd 22             *[K2, YO]* - repeat to last 2 sts, K2, cable CO 5 sts, attach front to back: *[K2, YO]* - repeat to last 2 sts, K2, cable CO 5 sts

Note: you should have 71 sts for the front, 5 sts for underarm, 71 sts for the back, 5 sts for underarm - a total of 152 sts.

Rnd 23-42      K152

Find the 36th stitch on your front part and put a marker on the 4th stitch BELOW it. You will increase into that stitch 6x as such:

Rnd 43            K33, insert your knitting needle through your marked stitch and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle, *[K1, K4b]* - repeat 5x (total 6 sts increased); K the rest of the stitches (114) to  the end (total 158 sts)

Rnd 44-53       K158

Rnd 54            K36, insert your knitting needle through your marked stitch and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle, *[K1, K4b ]* - repeat 5x in the same stitch (total 6 sts increased); K the rest of the stitches (117) to  the end (total 164 sts)

Rnd 55-64       K164

Rnd 65            K39, insert your knitting needle through your marked stitch and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle, *[K1, K4b]* - repeat 5x (total 6 sts increased); K the rest of the stitches (120) to  the end (total 170 sts)

Rnd 66               K170

Note: Increase by 4 stitches so you have multiple of 6 sts (174:6= 29 repeats)

Rnd 67               K89, m1R, K5, m1L, K71,  m1R, K5, m1L (total 174 sts)
Rnd 68-117        K174 sts

Knit with Gray color yarn:

Rnd 118              K174
Rnd 119-120       P174
Rnd 121-122       K174

Rnd 123              *[K3, B, K2]* - repeat to end (29x)

Rnd 124               K1174

Rnd 125-6            P174

Knit with White color yarn:

Rnd 127-130             K174

Knit with Salmon color yarn:

Rnd 131                   K174
Rnd 132-3                P174

Rnd 134-5                K174

Rnd 136                   *[K3, B, K2]* - repeat to end (29x)
Rnd 137                   K174

Rnd 138                   P174

Rnd 139                   BO purlwise all sts, weave in the ends

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

CROCHETED SEA FOAM BEACH BLOUSE AND SKIRT

I have a passion for knitting and crocheting, and thus I love to browse all different websites and marvel at all the beautiful and "yummy" yarns people spin and color. However, since I am on a budget, I tend to buy yarns when there is a good buy (sale, clearance). If the yarn has a great content (alpaca, merino, silk...) then that is an added bonus.

Italy is well known for its wonderful products - by design and by quality, so when I saw LANA GROSSA at such a great price on "Yarn website", I bought several balls. As I was looking at different colors, I was at the same time designing and knitting or crocheting in my head. I looked at the yarn and was thinking: "I could make myself a nice blouse from this color. And maybe crochet something cool from this color. I could use this color for my YouTube channel.

So today, let me present to you my crocheted blouse and skirt for the beach I designed for myself (and my  virtual crochet friends). I will wear this set with a camisole and tights while having my evening walks on the beach. 

This set is for a women's size medium, but you can size it very easily to any width by increasing or decreasing 8-stitch repeats. Each of my "8-stitch repeat" is 2 inches wide. Therefore, if you need let's say an increase of 6 inches, you would add 24 extra chain stitches [(6/2) x 8] to my initial chain count (the skirt - 149 sts, or the blouse - 77 sts). If you need to make the set for someone small and you need to make it let's say 2 inches narrower (blouse or skirt) you just need to deduct 8 sts from my initial chain count.

The length (of either a blouse or skirt) can be controlled by crocheting number of rows. Crochet yourselves a mini-, midi- or maxidress. Your imagination is the limit. Make it your size and your style.

Do you prefer crocheting along my videos? No problem:

VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES - CLICK HERE

VIDEO FOR LEFTIES: CLICK HERE

PLEASE BE ADVISED - IF SOMETHING IN MY WRITTEN PATTERN IS NOT RIGHT CONTACT ME VIA SOCIAL MEDIA - I DIDN'T HAVE ANYONE TO DO A "TEST DRIVE" - I MAY HAVE OVERLOOKED SOME OF MY WRITTEN NOTES - I HAVE NO TIME TO DO A VERY DETAILED CHECK UP FOR ERROR. I AM WORKING ON ANOTHER PROJECT AS THIS IS BEING PUBLISHED. THANK YOU!!!
ALSO,YOU CAN ALWAYS COMMENT UNDER THE VIDEOS (LINKS ARE ABOVE).

Material:

• 2 balls of Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno; color 001; 70% Cotton, 19% Merino, 11% Alpaca; 570m/150 g per ball for both garments (one ball for each) - FOR YARN REVIEW CLICK HERE
• Hook 5 mm
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:
Women US Medium (chest 36")

Gouge:
2" = 8 sts
1.5" = 3 double crochet rows

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
3dctog - 3 double crochet stitches together (decrease)
ch1sp - chain 1 space
ch3sp - chain 3 space
ch5sp - chain 5 space
fpdc - front post double crochet stitch
bpdc - back post double crochet stitch

Step-by-Step Directions:

BLOUSE - make 2 panels

Foundation:  77 chain stitches - these will produce 75 sts you will work with

3 ROW PATTERN:
Row 1            1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then 1 dc in each ch to end
Row 2            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 3            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

4 ROW PATTERN:
Row 4            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 5            ch2, 1 sc in ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp); *[in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in next ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp)]* - repeat 8x, then in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in last ch1sp, 1 sc in last st (total 9 "V" shaped dc sts)
Row 6            ch3, 1 dc in next st, skip ch3sp, *[7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in sc st, skip ch3sp]* - repeat 8x, finish with 7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, and 1 dc in each of last 2 sts
Row 7            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st

Crochet 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 8-10

5 ROW PATTERN:
Row 11           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat total 18x, 1 dc in last st
Row 12           ch6, skip 1 st, *[3dctog, ch5, skip 1 st]* - repeat 17x, then 3dctog, ch3, skip 1 st, 1 dc in last st
Row 13           ch5, 1 sc in  ch3sp, *[ch5, 1 sc  in ch5sp]* - repeat 17x, ch5, 1 sc in ch2sp, ch2, 1 dc in last st
Row 14           ch4; work in each 3rd ch of ch5sp: *[3 dc, ch1]* - repeat 18x, 1 dc in last st
Row 15           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 18x, 1 dc in last st

Repeat Rows 1-15 one more time (Row 16-30)

Continue to Crochet

• 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 31-33
• and then 4 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 4-7 above) = Rows 34-37

Row 36            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

Shoulder Part

Row 37            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - 9x, 1 dc in last st, turn
Row 38            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

Repeat Row 37 & 38 on the other side of the shoulder.

Finishing:
Either  sew back a front shoulders together, or connnect them togheter with a cable joint (see my video for that joint - link for right handed crocheters and for left handed crocheters is above). Weave in the ends. Crochet long strings (use 2 strands of yarn) - one for your waist and 2 for your tie of the blouse sides - and then attach to each end a tassel (total 6 tassels). 

My waist string is aprox. 56" long. My sting for each side of my blouse is aprox. 22" long.

SKIRT

Foundation:  149 chain stitches - these will produce 147 sts

3 ROW PATTERN:
Row 1            1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then 1 dc in each ch to end
Row 2            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 3            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

4 ROW PATTERN:
Row 4            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 5            ch2, 1 sc in ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp); *[in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in next ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp)]* - repeat 17x, then in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in last ch1sp, 1 sc in last st (total 18 "V" shaped dc sts)
Row 6            ch3, 1 dc in next st, skip ch3sp, *[7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in sc st, skip ch3sp]* - repeat 17x, finish with 7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in each of last 2 sts
Row 7            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st

Crochet 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 8-10

5 ROW PATTERN:
Row 11           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st
Row 12           ch6, skip 1 st, *[3dctog, ch5, skip 1 st]* - repeat 35x, then 3dctog, ch3, skip 1 st, 1 dc in last st
Row 13           ch5, 1 sc in  ch3sp, *[ch5, 1 sc  in ch5sp]* - repeat 35x, ch5, 1 sc in ch2sp, ch2, 1 dc in last st
Row 14           ch4; work in each 3rd ch of ch5sp: *[3 dc, ch1]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st
Row 15           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st

Repeat Rows 1-15 one more time (Row 16-30)

Continue to Crochet

• 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 31-33
• and then 4 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 4-7 above) = Rows 34-37

Row 35            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end
Row 36            ch3, *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - repeat to end, last st  will be 1 dc

Repeat Row 36 as many times as needed (front post dc stitches into fpdc, and back post dc stitches into bpdc) for your waistband.

Finishing:

Row 1            Crochet along the side as many single crochet stitches as needed (I usually crochet 2 sc sts into each of dc or ch3, and 1 sc into sc)
Row 2            ch1, *[skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st]* - repeat to end, finish with sl st in the last st (you may skip an extra stitch or two at the end to fit your last shell  or two sts well)

Lastly, make 2 tassels, then crochet a long string (crochet a long chain from doubled or tripled strands), attach the first tassel to one end, weave the other end through the waistband, then attach the second tassel. Weave in all the ends and wear your beutiful garment.

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Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product made by you, BUT you HAVE TO GIVE me a credit.

Thank you.

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Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.