KNITTED SLEEVELESS LACE BLOUSE - Size Medium

I find myself often looking at all different yarns, thick and thin, colorful or natural, single color, hand painted. I find the artistry behind yarn-making fascinating. I also love variegated yarns - the ones that appeal to my eye and style.

About half a year ago I was scrolling through some websites with yarns and came across Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno. There were several very pretty variegated balls on display. So I bought 4 different skeins. Among them, I added to my cart one that was semi-neutral, in a sage/gray color.

Unfortunately, this yarn is now discontinued (what else is new), but you may still find it somewhere on the world wide web. 

If it is out of your reach, you could substitute this yarn with another one - but make sure it is #2 weight (sock yarn thickness). You could use THIS link to find a similar yarn. Or see THIS sparkly yarn from Amazon (an affiliate link).

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra.

Material:

• Approximately 200g of Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno; color 003; 70% Cotton, 19% Merino, 11% Alpaca; 570m/150 g per ball
• DPNs, Circulars Knitting Needles, Long Knitting Needles - US size #5 (3.75 mm)
• Hook 3.75 mm 
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:

• Women US Medium

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

• on US knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 6 sts x 8 rows

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
m1 - increase by making one stitch (I used m1R; you could also increase by knitting below your next stitch)
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
K2tog - knit two stitches together
M - stitch marker
eM - edge marker
bobble = 2hdc bobble - with crochet hook pull a loose loop through the next stitch, YO, pull a 2nd loop, YO, pull a 3rd loop (5 loops on the hook), pull yarn through all 5 loops; bring the hook behind your bobble and pick up the stitch just below the bobble and pull this stitch through the stitch on the hook; lastly, transfer the stitch from the hook onto the working needle
CDD - slip the next two stitches from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to knit; knit the next stitch; insert the left knitting needle into the two slipped stitches and pull them over the knitted stitch
KTBL - knit through the back loop
SLS - slip last stitch purl-wise with yarn in front
m1R - make one right (increase)
m1L - make one left (increase)
CCO - cable cast-on
RS - right side
WS - wrong side

NOTE:
While knitting this blouse I used 3 types of knitting needles - long needles, DPNs, and circular needles, each time switching to the best type to knit with.

Step-by-Step Directions:

SECTION #1

Foundation: to start knitting yoke cast on 112 stitches

Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, join needles into a circle
Rnd 2-6       *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row
Rnd 7          *[K7, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 8-9       K128
Rnd 10        *[K8, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 11-12    K144
Rnd 13        *[K9, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 14-16   K160
Rnd 17        *[K10, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 176 sts

SECTION #2 - PATTERN PART

Work the "8 stitch/10 rows" pattern (the bobble could be substituted with K1 instead):

Rnd 1        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 2        K176
Rnd 3        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 4        K176
Rnd 5        *[YO, SSK, K1, bobble, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 6        K176
Rnd 7        *[K1, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, M]* - 22x
Rnd 8        K176
Rnd 9        *[K2, YO, CDD, YO, K3, M]* - 22x
Rnd 10       K176; remove your markers

SECTION #3

Continue working the yoke; start counting from 1

Rnd 1        *[K11, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 192 sts
Rnd 2-4     K192
Rnd 5        *[K12, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 208 sts
Rnd 6-7     K208

SECTION #4

At this point organize your stitches by placing markers as such:

Rnd 8        (back part) K10, eM, K44, eM, K10, M; (first sleeve) K43, M; (front part) K10, eM, K38, eM, K10, M; (the second sleeve) K43, M (end of the row)

Rnd 9      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K38, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

Rnd 10      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K16, increase in each of next 6 sts as such: *[K1, YO, K1]*, K16, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M (total 220 sts)

Rnd 11-13  (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

In the next row bind off your sleeves, and place your front part on the holder (a thick string of yarn); when finished with your 14th round start working on your back part

Rnd 14       (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x; BO 43 sleeve sts; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; BO 43 sleeve sts; do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BACK PART

Keep working back and forth - odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side, start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K44, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (64 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 44, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K44, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (66 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K46, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K46, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (68 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K48, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K48, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 90 sts total. Fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - FRONT PART

Work back and forth just like you worked "the back part" starting on the right side (odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side), and start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K52, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K52, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (74 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K54, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K54, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (76 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K56, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K56, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (78 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P58, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 96 sts total. Do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BODY

From now on work in the round on the right side, and start counting from 1

Rnd 1       (front part) KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K76, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS and to join the back part: *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, m1R, K70, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS; join your knit to work in the round (204 sts)

Rnd 2-6     (front part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K78, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (back part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K72, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x;  (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (204 sts)

Rnd 7-?     K204 (remove all eMs) - after you knit your desired length, finish your blouse with a few rows of *[K1, P1]* edging, and then weave in all your ends.

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any item) made by you. Credit me, please.

Thank you.

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SOCKS FOR 9 INCH LONG FOOT - WITH CAST ON 56 STITCHES

This is my standard, simple sock pattern, where I knit the heel and the toe area with a complementary color. For my complimentary color, I use usually a leftover sock yarn of the same thickness. In these socks, I also added a stripe in my ribbing for an extra effect.

I love my sock cuff to be knitted long, and stretchy all the way down to my ankles - to keep my leg warm.

If you would like to watch my sock musings - HERE IS THE VIDEO that I recorded for my New Year 2022. In it, I talk about these particular socks as well.

I also have SOCK playlists:

For RIGHT HANDED-KNITTERS HERE

and for LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS HERE

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

Material:

• Approximately 400 m of any combination sock yarn; I used one ball of MC - Mayflower 1 Class, 75% Wool/25% Nylon, 210 m, 50 grams; for CC I used leftovers of ONline, Supersocke 100, Color - Savanne, Fingering, 75% Wool/25% Polyamide - about 140 m (total 420 m/100 grams in the ball)
• DPNs, or long Circulars Knitting Needles #2 (2.75 mm) - if you knit loosely then 2.5mm needles
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for Kitchener Stitch & for weaving in the tails)

Size:

• Shoe size: ~ US size 7-8
• Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is 5"(unstretched) to ~10" (stretched)
• Ribbing (Cuff) Height: 6.75” or make your preferred height
• Heel Flap: 2.25" (reinforced flap - 28 rows)
• Sole width: 4” flat; (circumference is ~ 8”)
• Length of the sole heel to toe: 9” (you can make it longer if you chose so)

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

• on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 2"x2" = 15 sts x 21 rows

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
wyb-slPst - with yarn in back slip purl stitch purl-wise
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively


Step-by-Step Directions:

We will work in sections (the cuff, the flap, the turning heel, the gusset, the foot, the toe part) and each of these sections will start with Row 1.

Make 2 identical socks.

Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 56 stitches

The Cuff

Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle, start knitting in the round

Rnd 2-70      *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff really tall, about 7.5" tall

Do not cut off  MC - you will continue working with it on the gusset and part of your sock after you are finished with Turning The Heel.

The Heel Flap

NOTE: For the Heel Flap & Turning The Heel I used CC. 

If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needle #1 -28 sts, needles #2 and #3 - 14 sts each. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided to 28 + 28 between your magic loops. Work on your first 28 sts (needle #1) only, back and forth (NOT in the round) as such:

Row 1            (RS) *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end, turn
Row 2            (WS) *[K1, wyb-slPst]* - repeat to last 2 sts, then K1, P1

Repeat these 2 rows thirteen more times (total 14x = 28 rows)


Turning The Heel (row by row)

Keep working your sock with CC back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1. 

Row 1         (RS) sl. 1st st, K15, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2         (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 3         (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4         (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5         (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6         (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7         (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8         (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9         (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10       (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11       (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK,  (0 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12       (WS) sl. 1st st, P14, P2tog, (0 sts left on the needle), fasten off yarn (16 sts)

The Gusset (in the round)

Note: For the gusset and the part of the foot (excluding the toe area), use MC color.
You will work from now on RS only in the round. 

You should have 16 sts on your needle #1, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. Note: If you are knitting on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you are using circular needles insert markers between the 17-16-17-28 sts (while you're picking up your stitches on the side) to keep track of your sections. 

You will proceed as such:

• N1 - turn your sock sideways and pick up 17 stitches with MC along the first side - distribute these 17 sts evenly, making sure there are no "holes" between the needles; (this will be the BEGINNING of the row now)
• N2 - then knit 16 sts; (the "turning the heel stitches")
• N3 - turn your sock sideways and pick up 17 stitches along the second side - distribute these 17 sts evenly; (second side of the flap)
• N4 - then K28; (top of the foot - combined needles #2 & #3); 

Note: You should have 78 sts total. Now, we have to decrease stitches on both sides of your flap to get back to 56 sts total on all four needles (or on your circular needles). Do it as such:

Rnd 1            (N1) SSK, K15; (N2) K16; (N3) K15, K2tog; (N4) K28 (76 sts)
Rnd 2            (N1) SSK, K14; (N2) K16; (N3) K14, K2tog; (N4) K28 (74 sts)
Rnd 3            (N1) SSK, K13; (N2) K16; (N3) K13, K2tog; (N4) K28 (72 sts)
Rnd 4            (N1) SSK, K12; (N2) K16; (N3) K12, K2tog; (N4) K28 (70 sts)
Rnd 5            (N1) SSK, K11; (N2) K16; (N3) K11, K2tog; (N4) K28 (68 sts)
Rnd 6            (N1) SSK, K10; (N2) K16; (N3) K10, K2tog; (N4) K28 (66 sts)
Rnd 7            (N1) SSK, K9; (N2) K16; (N3) K9, K2tog; (N4) K28 (64 sts)
Rnd 8            (N1) SSK, K8; (N2) K16; (N3) K8, K2tog; (N4) K28 (62 sts)
Rnd 9            (N1) SSK, K7; (N2) K16; (N3) K7, K2tog; (N4) K28 (60 sts)
Rnd 10          (N1) SSK, K6; (N2) K16; (N3) K6, K2tog; (N4) K28 (58 sts)
Rnd 11          (N1) SSK, K5; (N2) K16; (N3) K5, K2tog; (N4) K28 (56 sts)

The Foot Part

Note: If you need to, reshuffle your stitches on your DPNs for ease of knitting. Each of my DPN had 14 sts. If you are knitting on circular needles, put a marker in the beginning and after 28th st. Knit as many rows as needed - for US foot size 7.5 I knitted 50 rows.

Rnd 1-44                K56

Note: Before you will start your toe part knit 6 rows with CC color (or a few more if you need your socks a tad longer). Then keep knitting the Toe Part with CC. 

Rnd 45-50              (CC) K56

The Toe Part

Rnd 1                    *[K2, K2tog, K20, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 2-3                 K52
Rnd 4                    *[K2, K2tog, K18, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 5-6                 K48
Rnd 7                    *[K2, K2tog, K16, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 8-9                 K44
Rnd 10                 *[K2, K2tog, K14, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 11-12             K40
Rnd 13                 *[K2, K2tog, K12, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 14                 K36
Rnd 15                 *[K2, K2tog, K10, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 16                 K32
Rnd 17                 *[K2, K2tog, K8, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 18                 *[K2, K2tog, K6, SSK, K2]* - 2x (24 sts)

To Finish Each Sock:

Move the first 12 sts onto one DPN, then move the last 12 sts onto another DPN, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. Then wear it or gift it.


My Other Project:

TINY HAT AND SOCKS FOR NEWBORN TWINS

Tiny Hat and Socks For Newborn Twins - HandMadeRukodelky ©2020

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

BEEHIVE SWEATER

I knew this project would take a long time to finish when I started it at the end of Spring. Not only because knitting cables is more time-consuming than just simple knitting, but I tend to start other projects as well. So, if you want to knit this "Beehive Sweater," give yourself ample time to finish it on time. If you want to knit the sweater, you need to know how to cast on, how to knit "knit" and "purl" stitches, C4F and C4B stitches, and how to bind off. 

If you are attempting to knit cables for the first time, do not despair. I have several videos grouped into a playlist for this project. Yes, my videos can be lengthy at times. But if you feel you understand what I am demonstrating, skip those parts. And if you don't understand, what is happening, play the video again. I hope you will find these videos helpful.

I knitted this sweater in a rectangle way.  (See the diagram below). Sleeves can be knitted as rectangles or tapered. You decide if you want them wide, or more narrow around the wrist area.

I also would like to talk about how you can size this sweater. It seems that 12 rows and 16 stitches both measure three inches (3"). So, from this knowledge, draw a plan of how wide and long your sweater should be. Don't forget to consider that if you wash your finished sweater, it may stretch - my small size turned into nearly a medium size. However, my daughter loves this oversized and cozy gift. The sleeves are longer than I anticipated. I suggested to my daughter that I would shorten them - it would be no problem since they are knitted from the shoulder down toward the wrist. However, she refused me to fix "the problem." So with this knowledge, you can decide how many repeat cables in rows and stitches you prefer. Also, consider having the sweater dry cleaned.

Now, let me talk a little about the head opening. In the video, I am demonstrating the binding off 44 stitches. You can also see that I had to rip it because the head opening was too big (it would, most likely, work better for a larger person). Instead, the second time around, I bound off 36 stitches. (See the image above of how it looks after I washed the sweater). I feel it would be even better if I bound off 28 stitches, but my daughter loves it as it is. The binding off 28 stitches, few shoulder rows, and casting on 28 stitches would make the head opening hug the neck area, yet it would have enough space to pull the sweater over the head. So again, using this information, you can tailor your project to any person's body and what the person prefers.

I doubled the strands because I didn't have any chunky yarn at hand. However, I had nearly 2 kilos of Knit Picks DK Merino. You may replace it with chunky yarn if you wish. Perhaps you would love to use light and fluffy (chunky) yarn instead of merino. Then all you have to do is a swatch to make sure you will size your work correctly. 

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS

"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS

STAY TUNED for the "Half-Balls" pattern (you can see them on the model in the design above). The remaining videos will be added as I finish editing them. ENJOY and share your work 😉🙂🌸

Size: Small (oversized), or Medium (more fitting)

Material:

• Yarn - 16 skeins of KNIT PICKS, Bare - DOUBLED; Colors: Natural; DK (#3); 100% Merino; 246 yds/100g; (12 skeins for a sweater, and 4 skeins for 1/2 balls)
• Knitting needles (straights, circulars, DPNs) #11 (8 mm)
• Markers
  
• Hook 6 mm
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

st, sts - stitch, stitches 
M - marker

C4F - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in front of your knitting

C4B - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in the back of your knitting

CCO - cable cast-on

BO - bind off

Cable Stitch Pattern Repeat

Gauge (cable):

3"x 3" = 16 sts x 12 rows

Step-by-Step Directions:

FRONT PART

CO 108 sts

Row 1            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 2            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn

Repeat Row 1 & 2 two more times (Row 3-6)

Note: From now on use knit sts only for the cables (knit sts on the right side, purl sts on the wrong side)

Row 7            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #1)
Row 8            P108
Row 9            K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11          K108
Row 12          P108

Row 13          K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #2)
Row 14          P108
Row 15          K108
Row 16          P108
Row 17          K108
Row 18          P108

Repeat Rows 7-18 as many times as needed. I repeated these twelve rows 7x in total before starting my shoulder area. If you would like your sweater longer repeat Rows 7-18  one or more extra times.

Then repeat rows 7-13 again as such:

Row 7            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 8            P108
Row 9            K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11          K108
Row 12          P108

Row 13          K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2

Then continue your front as such (NECK AREA RIBBING):

Row 14          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 15          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn
Row 16          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 17          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn
Row 18          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 19          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn

Work on the head opening = BO stitches in the middle as such:

Row 1            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, next C4F - BUT knit only the 2 back (purl) sts !! and BO 2 knit sts; then BO 32 sts, THEN start your C4B - but BO 2 knit sts, then BO 1 purl st and knit 1 back (purl) sts (these two sts will be part of your shoulder, 36 sts);  finish the row with *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, and K2, turn 

At this point, you will turn your work around and work on the first shoulder part. 

SHOULDER #1

Row 2            P36
Row 3            K36
Row 4            P36
Row 5            K36
Row 6            P36
Row 7            K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8            P36
Row 9            K36

DO NOT FASTEN OFF (don't cut off your yarn). 

With a different skein work on the second shoulder.

SHOULDER #2

Row 2            start working on the wrong side - attach a different skein; P36
Row 3            K36
Row 4            P36
Row 5            K36
Row 6            P36
Row 7            K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8            P36
Row 9            K36

BACK PART

Continue working on your back part starting with the yarn on Shoulder #1:

Row 10            P36, CCO 36 sts, P36 sts from Shoulder #2  (Note: put a marker in this row on each side - this will be the middle mark for your future sleeves.)
Row 11            K108
Row 12            P108

Starting with Row 13 - repeat Cable Rows 7-18 (= "12-Row Repeat") from FRONT PART eight times (8x) in total. 
(If you knitted your front longer than the written pattern for the front, knit as many EXTRA "row repeats" as you did for the front part.)

After you knit your last "12-Row Repeat" finish your BACK PART with the last cable row and then 4/4 ribbing as such:

Row 1            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 2            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 3            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn
Row 4            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 5            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn
Row 6            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 7            BO all sts, fasten off

SLEEVES - make 2 (one on each side of the sweater)

There are 4 ways to make your sleeves.

1. Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them in the round (use either DPNs or circulars)
2. Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them back and forth
3. Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a knitting needle and knit them back and forth
4. Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a circular needle (or DPN) and knit them in the round

If you choose to work back and forth (as in #2 & #3 ways), you will follow all odd rows (1, 3, 5.... etc) as written below. All your even rows (2, 4, 6... etc.) will be worked on the wrong side, which means you will purl every even row, except the 4/4 ribbing.

Cast on 78 stitches along the side of your front/back part. The middle of the sleeve width should correspond with the row where you casted-on for the back part and where you put your marker. You should CO 39 sts from the front and 39 sts from the back into EVERY row. (The tightness of the cable pattern makes the cast on nicely even and flat. There is no need to skip or add stitches. The seam should not be warped or pulling.) 

This sleeve pattern is for knitting in the round. Sleeves come out long. If you want them shorter you may adjust your rows.

After you CO your 78 sts, start knitting in the round (on DPNs or Circular needles) as such:

Rnd 1-3             K78

Rnd 4                   K3, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 5-9                K78
Rnd 10                 K3, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 11-14            K78
Rnd 15                 (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K72, SSK, K1 (76 sts)

Rnd 16                 K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 17-21            K76
Rnd 22                 K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 23-26            K76
Rnd 27                 (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K70, SSK, K1 (74 sts)

Rnd 28                  K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 29-33             K74
Rnd 34                  K1, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 35-39             K74
Rnd 40                  K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 41-44             K74
Rnd 45                   (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K68, SSK, K1(72 sts)

Rnd 46                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 47-51              K72

Rnd 52                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 53-57               K72
Rnd 58                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 59-63              K72

Rnd 64                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 65-69              K72
Rnd 70                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 71-75              K72

Rnd 76                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 77-83              *[K2, P4, K2]* - 9x

Rnd 84                    BO

Finishing:

Sew/crochet sides (= back to front) together, and weave in all the ends. If you desire, you could crochet half-balls (video coming soon), or buy acrylic pom-poms, and sew/tie them into the "dimples" between the cables.

CROCHETED HALF BALLS

Double the yarn.

To start: leave about 1 foot long tail, then wrap yarn around your index and middle finger (make magic loop) and croche into the loop as such: ch2, then make 7 (or eight) unfinished dc (only half way through) - you shoud have 8 (or nine) loops on your hook; then pull yarn through all 8 (9) loops, and make last chain (or rather knot). Pull on the yarn tight. Leaving second tail about 1 foot.

To finish - either color the "half balls" while still flat, OR pull on the first tail (the magic loop tail) to form the half ball and color then. 

As soon as I have this video edited you will be able to see it in the playlist above.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

QUICK KNITTED CAPLET

Capelet - a small cape covering the shoulders and part of the arms. 

I decided to knit a capelet for myself to cover my shoulders and arms when I feel chilly - such as when I am dining in very cold restaurants, or sitting outside on our deck during the cold nights, or walking along the beach on a windy cool evening. I am sure there will be other situations/places where I can wear my capelet. If you use a very fine yarn you could knit it even as a cover over a wedding gown, and/or have capelets made for your bridesmaids over their dresses to keep them warm in a church.

The length of your capelet will depend on how much of your arms you would like to cover. My capelet reaches to elbows, but you could also alter rows between the patterns "A" and "B" and make the capelet longer or shorter. You can also decide on a different pattern that fits the number of stitches after you are finished with increases, however before you will start any pattern of your choice, you may have to add few extra (1+) stitches to accommodate the number of needed stitches for your repeats.

For my capelet I used worsted yarn and a bigger size knitting needles than recommended by the manufacturer. My yarn is Casablanka by Cascade Yarns - a blend of wool, silk and mohair. I used this yarn for my husband's sweater which he loves and wears often. You can see my husband's raglan sweater in the video as well. I had two skeins left over from my husband's sweater project and wanted to make a good use of it. Although it is a little itchy, so you may have to substitute this yarn for a different, softer yarn.

Beware: I used both 2 skeins in their entirety. If you are loose knitter you may either use 5.5 mm knitting needles, or make 1-2 row less between the patterns, or purchase one extra skein.

FOR A VIDEO CLICK HERE (it will be published 7-14-21 @ 8am EST)

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

Materials:

• 2 skeins of Cascade Yarns, Casablanca;
  Fiber Content: 60% Wool, 25% Silk, 15% Mohair;
  Color: 10, Seaside;
  Weight: Medium / Worsted / Aran (4);
  Weight/Yardage: 100g / 218 yards;
  Care: Hand Wash, Dry Flat;
• Circular Knitting Needles (or DPNs) Size: #10 (6 mm)
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

M1R - pick a leading strand between the stitches by inserting a needle back to front and knit a stitch leaning to the right

YO - yarn over

K2tog - knit 2 stitches together

BO - bind off

Gauge (stockinette st):

4" x 4" = 16 sts x 20 rows

Measurements (measured flat): 

Step-by-Step Directions:

This caplet is knitted top-down. CO 78 sts.

Row 1                *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end,  join without twisting
Row 2-6             *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end

Rnd 7                 *[K7, M1R]* - 10x, K8 (Note: do not increase after last 8 sts, as you already have 1 extra stitch for the repeat)

Rnd 8                 K88

Rnd 9                 *[K8, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 10               K99

Rnd 11               *[K9, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 12               K110
Rnd 13               K110

Rnd 14               *[K10, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 15               K121
Rnd 16               K121
Rnd 17               K121

Rnd 18               *[K11, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 19               K132
Rnd 20               K132
Rnd 21               K132

Rnd 22               K132

Rnd 23               *[K12, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 24               K143
Rnd 25               K143
Rnd 26               K143

Rnd 27               K143

Note: Keep increasing in this manner (increase in one row, knit 4 rows with no increases) until you have 187 sts on your needles (Rows 28-47). Then:

Rnd 48               *[K17, M1R]* - 11x 

Rnd 49-53          K198

PATTERN "A"

Rnd 54                P198

Rnd 55                *[K2tog, YO, K4] - 33x
Rnd 56                K198
Rnd 57                P198

Rnd 58-62          K198

Rnd 63-71         Repeat  your last 9 rows again (as in Rnd 54 - 62)

PATTERN "B"

Rnd 72                P198

Rnd 73                *[K2tog, YO] - to end
Rnd 74                K198
Rnd 75                P198

Rnd 76-78          K198

Rnd 79-85         Repeat  your last 7 rows again (as in Rnd 72 - 78)

Rnd 86            BO with purl stitch

Weave in all the ends.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

CROCHETED SEA FOAM BEACH BLOUSE AND SKIRT

I have a passion for knitting and crocheting, and thus I love to browse all different websites and marvel at all the beautiful and "yummy" yarns people spin and color. However, since I am on a budget, I tend to buy yarns when there is a good buy (sale, clearance). If the yarn has a great content (alpaca, merino, silk...) then that is an added bonus.

Italy is well known for its wonderful products - by design and by quality, so when I saw LANA GROSSA at such a great price on "Yarn website", I bought several balls. As I was looking at different colors, I was at the same time designing and knitting or crocheting in my head. I looked at the yarn and was thinking: "I could make myself a nice blouse from this color. And maybe crochet something cool from this color. I could use this color for my YouTube channel.

So today, let me present to you my crocheted blouse and skirt for the beach I designed for myself (and my  virtual crochet friends). I will wear this set with a camisole and tights while having my evening walks on the beach. 

This set is for a women's size medium, but you can size it very easily to any width by increasing or decreasing 8-stitch repeats. Each of my "8-stitch repeat" is 2 inches wide. Therefore, if you need let's say an increase of 6 inches, you would add 24 extra chain stitches [(6/2) x 8] to my initial chain count (the skirt - 149 sts, or the blouse - 77 sts). If you need to make the set for someone small and you need to make it let's say 2 inches narrower (blouse or skirt) you just need to deduct 8 sts from my initial chain count.

The length (of either a blouse or skirt) can be controlled by crocheting number of rows. Crochet yourselves a mini-, midi- or maxidress. Your imagination is the limit. Make it your size and your style.

Do you prefer crocheting along my videos? No problem:

VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES - CLICK HERE

VIDEO FOR LEFTIES: CLICK HERE

PLEASE BE ADVISED - IF SOMETHING IN MY WRITTEN PATTERN IS NOT RIGHT CONTACT ME VIA SOCIAL MEDIA - I DIDN'T HAVE ANYONE TO DO A "TEST DRIVE" - I MAY HAVE OVERLOOKED SOME OF MY WRITTEN NOTES - I HAVE NO TIME TO DO A VERY DETAILED CHECK UP FOR ERROR. I AM WORKING ON ANOTHER PROJECT AS THIS IS BEING PUBLISHED. THANK YOU!!!
ALSO,YOU CAN ALWAYS COMMENT UNDER THE VIDEOS (LINKS ARE ABOVE).

Material:

• 2 balls of Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno; color 001; 70% Cotton, 19% Merino, 11% Alpaca; 570m/150 g per ball for both garments (one ball for each) - FOR YARN REVIEW CLICK HERE
• Hook 5 mm
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:
Women US Medium (chest 36")

Gouge:
2" = 8 sts
1.5" = 3 double crochet rows

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
3dctog - 3 double crochet stitches together (decrease)
ch1sp - chain 1 space
ch3sp - chain 3 space
ch5sp - chain 5 space
fpdc - front post double crochet stitch
bpdc - back post double crochet stitch

Step-by-Step Directions:

BLOUSE - make 2 panels

Foundation:  77 chain stitches - these will produce 75 sts you will work with

3 ROW PATTERN:
Row 1            1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then 1 dc in each ch to end
Row 2            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 3            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

4 ROW PATTERN:
Row 4            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 5            ch2, 1 sc in ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp); *[in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in next ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp)]* - repeat 8x, then in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in last ch1sp, 1 sc in last st (total 9 "V" shaped dc sts)
Row 6            ch3, 1 dc in next st, skip ch3sp, *[7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in sc st, skip ch3sp]* - repeat 8x, finish with 7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, and 1 dc in each of last 2 sts
Row 7            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st

Crochet 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 8-10

5 ROW PATTERN:
Row 11           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat total 18x, 1 dc in last st
Row 12           ch6, skip 1 st, *[3dctog, ch5, skip 1 st]* - repeat 17x, then 3dctog, ch3, skip 1 st, 1 dc in last st
Row 13           ch5, 1 sc in  ch3sp, *[ch5, 1 sc  in ch5sp]* - repeat 17x, ch5, 1 sc in ch2sp, ch2, 1 dc in last st
Row 14           ch4; work in each 3rd ch of ch5sp: *[3 dc, ch1]* - repeat 18x, 1 dc in last st
Row 15           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 18x, 1 dc in last st

Repeat Rows 1-15 one more time (Row 16-30)

Continue to Crochet

• 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 31-33
• and then 4 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 4-7 above) = Rows 34-37

Row 36            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

Shoulder Part

Row 37            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - 9x, 1 dc in last st, turn
Row 38            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

Repeat Row 37 & 38 on the other side of the shoulder.

Finishing:
Either  sew back a front shoulders together, or connnect them togheter with a cable joint (see my video for that joint - link for right handed crocheters and for left handed crocheters is above). Weave in the ends. Crochet long strings (use 2 strands of yarn) - one for your waist and 2 for your tie of the blouse sides - and then attach to each end a tassel (total 6 tassels). 

My waist string is aprox. 56" long. My sting for each side of my blouse is aprox. 22" long.

SKIRT

Foundation:  149 chain stitches - these will produce 147 sts

3 ROW PATTERN:
Row 1            1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then 1 dc in each ch to end
Row 2            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 3            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

4 ROW PATTERN:
Row 4            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 5            ch2, 1 sc in ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp); *[in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in next ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp)]* - repeat 17x, then in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in last ch1sp, 1 sc in last st (total 18 "V" shaped dc sts)
Row 6            ch3, 1 dc in next st, skip ch3sp, *[7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in sc st, skip ch3sp]* - repeat 17x, finish with 7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in each of last 2 sts
Row 7            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st

Crochet 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 8-10

5 ROW PATTERN:
Row 11           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st
Row 12           ch6, skip 1 st, *[3dctog, ch5, skip 1 st]* - repeat 35x, then 3dctog, ch3, skip 1 st, 1 dc in last st
Row 13           ch5, 1 sc in  ch3sp, *[ch5, 1 sc  in ch5sp]* - repeat 35x, ch5, 1 sc in ch2sp, ch2, 1 dc in last st
Row 14           ch4; work in each 3rd ch of ch5sp: *[3 dc, ch1]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st
Row 15           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st

Repeat Rows 1-15 one more time (Row 16-30)

Continue to Crochet

• 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 31-33
• and then 4 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 4-7 above) = Rows 34-37

Row 35            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end
Row 36            ch3, *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - repeat to end, last st  will be 1 dc

Repeat Row 36 as many times as needed (front post dc stitches into fpdc, and back post dc stitches into bpdc) for your waistband.

Finishing:

Row 1            Crochet along the side as many single crochet stitches as needed (I usually crochet 2 sc sts into each of dc or ch3, and 1 sc into sc)
Row 2            ch1, *[skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st]* - repeat to end, finish with sl st in the last st (you may skip an extra stitch or two at the end to fit your last shell  or two sts well)

Lastly, make 2 tassels, then crochet a long string (crochet a long chain from doubled or tripled strands), attach the first tassel to one end, weave the other end through the waistband, then attach the second tassel. Weave in all the ends and wear your beutiful garment.

****************************

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product made by you, BUT you HAVE TO GIVE me a credit.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Knitted Chunky Sweater

I love yarn, and often I want to buy more. I search various yarn websites and marvel at all those beautiful skeins and dream what I could knit or crochet with them. But lately, I have been trying to be strict with myself. Seriously. I need to de-stash my yarn from all the hiding places. What can be quite sad is that by the time I get to knit some of the projects, the yarn is discontinued. Ugh, grrrr. 

I bought this extravagant-looking yarn about five years ago. Four bags. Twenty balls of a greenish and twenty balls of a pinkish color. About two weeks ago, I pulled out the yummy green one with orange and purple speckles. I thought: "This will make a nice warm sweater for my petite daughter." 

Here we are today - let me share a finished written pattern of the top-down sweater for XS/S women. Although the company discontinued this yarn, you may opt for another super bulky one, which yields 8 sts and 11 rows in 4", and you should be fine. Yes, the sweater will look different, but it will be your design knitted with my pattern.

f you are interested in watching my video about this sweater where I am presenting how to start a sleeve, you may click on one of the links below.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES

VIDEO FOR LEFTIES 

Enjoy.

Materials:
16 balls of ARTFUL YARNS, Palace; 48% wool, 45% acrylic, 7% nylon; Color: 366; 50g/1.75 oz; 27 yds/ 24.7 m;
Knitting needles - circular and DPNs, US size #15, 10 mm
Hook 9mm (see the sleeve part in the video)
Yarn needle
Buttons

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
KE - knit edge (= knit 4 sts for edge)
K - knit
K1tbl - knit one stitch through the back loop
sl1wyf - slip one (last) stitch with yarn in front 
P - purl
M1 - increase by making 1 st between the stitches
K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip knitwise, slip knitwise, knit both stitches through the back loop
BO - bind of your stitches

Size:
women XS/S

Measurements:

YOKE

CO 48 sts

Note: place buttonholes every 20, 22, or 24 rows after the first initial buttonhole in the seventh row. Your choice of how close/far together you would like to have them.

Row 1-4              K48
Row 5                 K1tbl, K3; *[M1, K4]* - 10x,  M1; K3, sl1wyf
Row 6                 K1tbl, K3; P51; K3, sl1wyf
Row 7                 K1tbl, K3; *[M1, K5]* - 10x, M1, K1; K2tog, YO (button hole), K1, sl1wyf
Row 8                 K1tbl, K3; P62; K3, sl1wyf
Row 9                 K1tbl, K3; K1, *[M1, K6]* - 10x,  M1, K1; K3, sl1wyf
Row 10               K1tbl, K3; P73; K3, sl1wyf
Row 11               K1tbl, K3; K2, *[M1, K7]* - 10x, M1, K1; K3, sl1wyf
Row 12               K1tbl, K3; P84; K3, sl1wyf
Row 13               K1tbl, K3; K6, *[M1, K8]* - 9x, M1, K6; K3, sl1wyf
Row 14               K1tbl, K3; P94; K3, sl1wyf
Row 15               K1tbl, K3; K94; K3, sl1wyf
Row 16               K1tbl, K3; P94; K3, sl1wyf
Row 17               K1tbl, K3; K6, *[M1, K9]* - 9x, M1, K7; K3, sl1wyf
Row 18               K1tbl, K3; P104; K3, sl1wyf
Row 19               K1tbl, K3; K104; K3, sl1wyf
Row 20               K1tbl, K3; P104; K3, sl1wyf
Row 21               K1tbl, K3; K7, *[M1, K10]* - 9x, M1, K7; K3, sl1wyf
Row 22               K1tbl, K3; P114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 23               K1tbl, K3; K114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 24               K1tbl, K3; P114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 25               K1tbl, K3; K114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 26               K1tbl, K3; P114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 27               K1tbl, K3; K8, *[M1, K11]* - 9x, M1, K7; K3, sl1wyf
Row 28               K1tbl, K3; P124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 29               K1tbl, K3; K124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 30               K1tbl, K3; P124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 31               K1tbl, K3; K124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 32               K1tbl, K3; P124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 33               K1tbl, K3; K19 ( front #1), move 24 sts on holder/string - stitches on your holder will be knitted later (sleeve #1), CO 2 sts, connect the front part to the back part by knitting next 38 sts, move 24 sts on holder/string - stitches on your holder will be knitted later (sleeve #2), CO 2 sts, connect the back part to the front part by knitting next 19 stitches (front #2); K3, sl1wyf

Note: you should have stitches as such:
EDGE: 4 sts;
FRONT: 19 sts; plus 2 extra sts for underarm;
BACK: 38 sts; plus 2 extra sts for underarm; 
FRONT: 19 sts; EDGE: 4 sts;

Also - if your arms' circumference is bigger add more underarm stitches, but remember to change the stitch count below.

BODY - repeat Row 1 & Row 2 many times until you have desired length. I knitted 14 inches (40 rows) measured from the underarm.

Row 1               K1tbl, K3; P80; K3, sl1wyf
Row 2               K1tbl, K3; K80; K3, sl1wyf

BOTTOM BODY EDGE

Row 1-6           K88 (After knitting your desired length of the body, knit 6 rows of garter stitch), BO your last row and weave in the tail

SLEEVES

Work in the round. Start with the underarm area (for reference RIGHTIES can watch my video HERE, and LEFTIES can watch the video HERE). There are 2 extra stitches (but it looks like there are 4 sts).

Rnd 1                Start in the middle of your underarm area - CO one stitch of the 2 underarm sts, then CO one extra stitch to close the gap between your CO stitch and the first stitch of the sleeve; then K24; then  CO 2 more sts - again closing the gap between the sleeve stitches and underarm stitches - total 28 stitches (4 CO + 4 sleeve sts)
Rnd 2-10            K28
Rnd 11                K2tog, K24, SSK
Rnd 12-20          K26
Rnd 21                K2tog, K22, SSK
Rnd 22-30          K24
Rnd 31                K2tog, K20, SSK
Rnd 32-40          K22
Rnd 41                K2tog, K18, SSK
Rnd 42-52          K20
Rnd 53                P20
Rnd 54                K20
Rnd 55                P20
Rnd 56                K20
Rnd 57                P20
Rnd 58                K20
Rnd 59                BO 20sts and weave in the tail

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.