I love my sock cuff to be knitted long, and stretchy all the way down to my ankles - to keep my leg warm.
If you would like to watch my sock musings - HERE IS THE VIDEO that I recorded for my New Year 2022. In it, I talk about these particular socks as well.
I also have SOCK playlists:
For RIGHT HANDED-KNITTERS HERE
and for LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS HERE
Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.
Material:
- Approximately 400 m of any combination sock yarn; I used one ball of MC - Mayflower 1 Class, 75% Wool/25% Nylon, 210 m, 50 grams; for CC I used leftovers of ONline, Supersocke 100, Color - Savanne, Fingering, 75% Wool/25% Polyamide - about 140 m (total 420 m/100 grams in the ball)
- DPNs, or long Circulars Knitting Needles #2 (2.75 mm) - if you knit loosely then 2.5mm needles
- Scissors
- Yarn Needle (for Kitchener Stitch & for weaving in the tails)
- Shoe size: ~ US size 7-8
- Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is 5"(unstretched) to ~10" (stretched)
- Ribbing (Cuff) Height: 6.75” or make your preferred height
- Heel Flap: 2.25" (reinforced flap - 28 rows)
- Sole width: 4” flat; (circumference is ~ 8”)
- Length of the sole heel to toe: 9” (you can make it longer if you chose so)
Gouge (stockinette stitch):
- on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 2"x2" = 15 sts x 21 rows
Abbreviation:
DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
wyb-slPst - with yarn in back slip purl stitch purl-wise
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively
Step-by-Step Directions:
We will work in sections (the cuff, the flap, the turning heel, the gusset, the foot, the toe part) and each of these sections will start with Row 1.
Make 2 identical socks.
Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 56 stitches
The Cuff
Rnd 1 *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle, start knitting in the round
Rnd 2-70 *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff really tall, about 7.5" tall
Do not cut off MC - you will continue working with it on the gusset and part of your sock after you are finished with Turning The Heel.
The Heel Flap
NOTE: For the Heel Flap & Turning The Heel I used CC.
If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needle #1 -28 sts, needles #2 and #3 - 14 sts each. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided to 28 + 28 between your magic loops. Work on your first 28 sts (needle #1) only, back and forth (NOT in the round) as such:
Row 1 (RS) *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end, turn
Row 2 (WS) *[K1, wyb-slPst]* - repeat to last 2 sts, then K1, P1
Repeat these 2 rows thirteen more times (total 14x = 28 rows)
Turning The Heel (row by row)
Keep working your sock with CC back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.
Row 1 (RS) sl. 1st st, K15, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2 (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 3 (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4 (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5 (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6 (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7 (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8 (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9 (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10 (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11 (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK, (0 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12 (WS) sl. 1st st, P14, P2tog, (0 sts left on the needle), fasten off yarn (16 sts)
The Gusset (in the round)
Note: For the gusset and the part of the foot (excluding the toe area), use MC color.
You will work from now on RS only in the round.
You should have 16 sts on your needle #1, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. Note: If you are knitting on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you are using circular needles insert markers between the 17-16-17-28 sts (while you're picking up your stitches on the side) to keep track of your sections.
You will proceed as such:
- N1 - turn your sock sideways and pick up 17 stitches with MC along the first side - distribute these 17 sts evenly, making sure there are no "holes" between the needles; (this will be the BEGINNING of the row now)
- N2 - then knit 16 sts; (the "turning the heel stitches")
- N3 - turn your sock sideways and pick up 17 stitches along the second side - distribute these 17 sts evenly; (second side of the flap)
- N4 - then K28; (top of the foot - combined needles #2 & #3);
Note: You should have 78 sts total. Now, we have to decrease stitches on both sides of your flap to get back to 56 sts total on all four needles (or on your circular needles). Do it as such:
Rnd 1 (N1) SSK, K15; (N2) K16; (N3) K15, K2tog; (N4) K28 (76 sts)
Rnd 2 (N1) SSK, K14; (N2) K16; (N3) K14, K2tog; (N4) K28 (74 sts)
Rnd 3 (N1) SSK, K13; (N2) K16; (N3) K13, K2tog; (N4) K28 (72 sts)
Rnd 4 (N1) SSK, K12; (N2) K16; (N3) K12, K2tog; (N4) K28 (70 sts)
Rnd 5 (N1) SSK, K11; (N2) K16; (N3) K11, K2tog; (N4) K28 (68 sts)
Rnd 6 (N1) SSK, K10; (N2) K16; (N3) K10, K2tog; (N4) K28 (66 sts)
Rnd 7 (N1) SSK, K9; (N2) K16; (N3) K9, K2tog; (N4) K28 (64 sts)
Rnd 8 (N1) SSK, K8; (N2) K16; (N3) K8, K2tog; (N4) K28 (62 sts)
Rnd 9 (N1) SSK, K7; (N2) K16; (N3) K7, K2tog; (N4) K28 (60 sts)
Rnd 10 (N1) SSK, K6; (N2) K16; (N3) K6, K2tog; (N4) K28 (58 sts)
Rnd 11 (N1) SSK, K5; (N2) K16; (N3) K5, K2tog; (N4) K28 (56 sts)
The Foot Part
Note: If you need to, reshuffle your stitches on your DPNs for ease of knitting. Each of my DPN had 14 sts. If you are knitting on circular needles, put a marker in the beginning and after 28th st. Knit as many rows as needed - for US foot size 7.5 I knitted 50 rows.
Rnd 1-44 K56
Note: Before you will start your toe part knit 6 rows with CC color (or a few more if you need your socks a tad longer). Then keep knitting the Toe Part with CC.
Rnd 45-50 (CC) K56
The Toe Part
Rnd 1 *[K2, K2tog, K20, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 2-3 K52
Rnd 4 *[K2, K2tog, K18, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 5-6 K48
Rnd 7 *[K2, K2tog, K16, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 8-9 K44
Rnd 10 *[K2, K2tog, K14, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 11-12 K40
Rnd 13 *[K2, K2tog, K12, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 14 K36
Rnd 15 *[K2, K2tog, K10, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 16 K32
Rnd 17 *[K2, K2tog, K8, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 18 *[K2, K2tog, K6, SSK, K2]* - 2x (24 sts)
To Finish Each Sock:
Move the first 12 sts onto one DPN, then move the last 12 sts onto another DPN, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. Then wear it or gift it.
My Other Project:
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| Tiny Hat and Socks For Newborn Twins - HandMadeRukodelky ©2020 |
Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.
Thank you.
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