CROCHETED SIMPLE BUCKET HAT FROM RAFFIA

I would like to share a free pattern for my bucket hat from Raffia I made this summer. Raffia is a material, that is a little difficult to deal with, but if you take it in small steps, you could persevere in a few days.

Crocheting (or knitting) a bucket hat (or actually any hat) is a creative endeavor that allows you to express yourself, develop new skills, and enjoy the process of making something uniquely fashionable. What do you get out of it?

    1. Customization: Crocheting a bucket hat allows you to make a unique gift. You can choose your favorite colors, patterns, and yarn materials to design a hat that perfectly matches your or someone else's taste. 

    2. Handmade and Personal Touch: Making a bucket hat can be a thoughtful gift for someone special or a way to express your creativity and individuality. 

    3. Skill Development: Crocheting a bucket hat enhances your crocheting skills. You can learn new stitches, techniques, and patterns while working on the project, improving your abilities and expanding your repertoire of crochet skills. 

    4. Practicality and Versatility: Bucket hats are practical. They provide sun protection for your face and neck, making them suitable for outdoor activities such as gardening, beach outings, or picnics. Your imagination can offer a unique and stylish twist to this functional accessory.

    5. Relaxation and Mindfulness: Crocheting is known for its therapeutic benefits. It can help reduce stress, promote relaxation, and increase mindfulness. The repetitive motions and focus required in crocheting can be soothing, allowing you to unwind and enjoy the process.

    6. Cost-Effective: Crocheting your bucket hat can be a cost-effective alternative to buying one. Yarn and crochet hooks can be inexpensive, and you can create multiple hats from a single skein of yarn. You have the added self-satisfaction of making a unique gift using your hands.

    7. Connection and Community: People enjoy crocheting as a hobby. By joining crochet communities, online forums, or local knitting and crocheting groups, you can connect with fellow crafters, share your projects, and learn from others' experiences. 

Materials used:

2 cones of raffia, one in pink and one in black, which I purchased via AMAZON (by clicking on the link and purchasing Raffia, I will get a few pennies, which will support more of your free patterns.)

Abbreviations:

MC - main color (black)

CC - complimentary color (pink)

sc - single crochet stitch

st(s) - stitch(es)

incr - increase by crocheting 2 sc stitches in the same stitch

How To Measure For The Hat:

Measurements:

I usually make my hat a little smaller in diameter because it stretches. I did the same with Raffia material. So for example a head that has a circumference of 21 inches I would use 19 or 20 inches to calculate my diameter. Here I used 19".

Diameter of the top part: 6"

Height: 3.5"

Note: the total hat height is 6.5" without the brim

Brim width: 3" (but you can make the width any size you would like by decreasing or increasing rows)

TOP OF THE HAT

Use CC raffia 

Rnd 1            Into magic ring make 7 sc; (7) 

Note: place a marker (I use a string of yarn) between the first and last st and continue in the spiral way to keep track of the row beginning.

Rnd 2            incr (= 2 sc) in each st to end; (14)

Rnd 3            *[1 sc, incr]* - 7x; (21)

Rnd 4            *[1 sc in next 2 sts, incr]* - 7x; (28)

Rnd 5            *[1 sc in next 3 sts, incr]* - 7x; (35)

Rnd 6            *[1 sc in next 4 sts, incr]* - 7x; (42)

Rnd 7            *[1 sc in next 5 sts, incr]* - 7x; (49)

Rnd 8            *[1 sc in next 6 sts, incr]* - 7x; (56)

Rnd 9            *[1 sc in next 7 sts, incr]* - 7x; (63)

Rnd 10          *[1 sc in next 8 sts, incr]* - 7x; (70)

Rnd 11          *[1 sc in next 9 sts, incr]* - 7x; (77)

Rnd 12          *[1 sc in next 10 sts, incr]* - 7x; (84)

BODY OF THE HAT

Change the color - use MC raffia.

Rnd 13-?          1 sc in each st to end; (84)

Crochet as many rows as you need to achieve the height of your hat. I crocheted 15 rows (Rnds 13-27), which reached the top of my eyebrows. I could have done just 13 rows.

BRIM OF THE HAT

Continue with MC of your raffia.

Rnd 28          *[1 sc in next 11 sts, incr]* - 7x; (91)

Rnd 29          *[1 sc in next 12 sts, incr]* - 7x; (98)

Rnd 30          *[1 sc in next 13 sts, incr]* - 7x; (105)

Rnd 31          *[1 sc in next 14 sts, incr]* - 7x; (112)

Rnd 32          *[1 sc in next 15 sts, incr]* - 7x; (119)

Rnd 33          *[1 sc in next 16 sts, incr]* - 7x; (126)

Rnd 34          *[1 sc in next 17 sts, incr]* - 7x; (133)

Rnd 35          *[1 sc in next 18 sts, incr]* - 7x; (140)

Rnd 36          *[1 sc in next 19 sts, incr]* - 7x; (147)

Rnd 37          *[1 sc in next 20 sts, incr]* - 7x; (154)

FINISH

Rnd 38            Crochet one row without any increases in CC of your raffia.

When you are finished, weave your ends into the stitches. You can sew a ribbon on the inside. You could decorate your hat per your desire. 

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

CROCHETED WOOL BOOTS WITH RUBBER SOLES

I crocheted boots before, but never a pair with rubber soles. And let me tell you, this was a challenge. I had to pull a thick yarn through a very tight cotton string base on the rubber soles. 

I started first with a yarn needle. That didn't work, so II switched to a 1.65 mm stainless steel hook. That worked, but I destroyed it after working on my first boot. I tossed it and went rummaging into my hook box. I found another stainless steel hook, this time a 2 mm one. This hook worked out fine, but it was harder to push it through and then pull it out with the yarn. I worked slowly to distribute all slip stitches (my base) evenly. I pulled 51 slip stitches on my first boot but 52 on my second. I solved my problem by crocheting two single crochet stitches together in the second row in order to have both my boots sized identically.

When I was attaching the top part (instep), I made sure I achieved the same number of stitches for both ankles. Each boot took me one day to finish. I think these boots would make a great gift. 

You may not be able to find the same yarn (I bought it a while ago) - I pulled it out of my considerable stash. I would suggest using any ribbon type of yarn because my yarn is in a shape of a ribbon.

ALSO:

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra and I will get a tiny portion of the sale. 💛

Material:

• 7+ balls (depending on the size of the shoe) of ARTFUL YARNS, Palace, Super Bulky Weight; 48% wool,45% acrylic, 7% nylon; 50g; approx. 27 yards. OR any ribbon-like yarn.
• Hooks: 2 mm stainless steel (for the foundation around the rubber sole's perimeter) and 6 mm to crochet the boot
• Rubber soles (I bought mine from Etsy, which was shipped to me from Spain)
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:
Women's shoe EU 35 (US size 5; 22 cm foot length)

Height of the boot - 7"

Circumference at the top of the boot 11"

However, you can adjust your rows to different sizes and heights of your boots.

Gouge:
2" = 8 sts
1.5" = 3 double crochet rows

Abbreviations:
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
2 sctog - two single crochet together
st, sts - stitch, stitches
prev - previous

Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2 of each: Sole Inserts, Instep Pieces, and Boots.

SOLE INSERTS - Make 2 identical, but use one on the right side and the other on wrong side. 

I used my sole as a template for my increases and decreases

I made my sole inserts a little bigger than the rubber soles so I could connect them together with the first row while crocheting the boot.
I used my rubber soles as my template in order to crochet the shape of the sole, which means I increased or decreased according to the shape, checking in each row. In order to make an identical sole I penned down all my rows - this is how I proceeded:

Foundation - ch5

Row 1                 (RS) insert hook into 2nd ch from hook - make 1 sc, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (total 4 sc), turn
Row 2                 (WS) 2 sc in first st, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (5 sc), turn
Row 3                 2 sc in first st, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (6 sc), turn
Row 4                 1 sc in each of 3 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 2 stitches, turn
Row 5                 1 sc in each of 3 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches  (8 sc), turn
Row 6                 1 sc in each of 4 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches  (9 sc), turn
Row 7-9              1 sc in each of 9 stitches (9 sc), turn
Row 10               1 sc in each of 4 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (8 sc), turn
Row 11               1 sc in each of 8 stitches (8 sc), turn
Row 12               1 sc in each of 3 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (7 sc), turn
Row 13-19          1 sc in each of 7 stitches (7 sc), turn
Row 20               1 sc in each of 2 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (6 sc), turn
Row 21-22          1 sc in each of 6 stitches (6 sc), turn
Row 23               *[1 sc, next 2 sctog]* - 2x,  (4 sc),  fasten off

INSTEP - TOP OF THE BOOT

The bottom piece is my INSTEP piece (top of the boot)

Foundation - ch5

Row 1                1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch st to end, turn (total 4 sts)
Row 2                2 sc into 1st st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into last st to, turn (6 sts)
Row 3                1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, turn (6 sts)
Row 4                2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn (8 sts)
Row 5-8            1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, turn (8 sts)
Row 9                1 sc into in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, turn (9 sts)
Row 10              1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, turn (9 sts)
Row 11              1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, turn (10 sts)
Row 12              1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, turn (10 sts)

Fasten off your yarn

BOOT

Note: My starting point was at the back (heel) of the rubber sole.

Prep your rubber sole by crocheting slip stitches around the entire perimeter of the sole. For this hard job I used a 1.65 mm hook, which I inserted under each thread (on the side of the rubber sole) and pulled a loop big enough to make a slip stitch, I skipped the next thread, and then I made another slip stitch. I continued this way around, which means each time I skipped one thread and made a slip stitch in the next one.

I was able to make 51 stitches slip stitches around. Place your SOLE INSERT inside the rubber sole - you will crochet both together. Make sure the SOLE INSERT is placed correctly

    The Foot Area

Rnd 1                1 hdc into each slip st and to the side of the crocheted SOLE INSERT (to end)
                          Note: don't use slip st, just continue crocheting in a spiral pattern

This is how finished Rnd 1 looks like

Rnd 2                1 sc into each hdc (to end)
Rnd 3                1 sc into each sc from prev row (to end)

Place the INSTEP (see above) over the front part of the shoe and pin it so it doesn't shift. Make sure it is not crooked. Make sure that you will place the second INSTEP on the other boot exactly the same way.

Instep before & after crocheted together with the boot

Rnd 4                1 sc into each sc from prev row until you reach the INSTEP part, then crochet around 1 sc into sc and the side of the crocheted INSTEP, then continue with 1 sc into each sc from prev row to last st before the row ends

    The Ankle Area

Rnd 5                Decrease by crocheting the last sc and 1st sc stitches together (= 2 sctog), then 1 sc into each stitch until you have one stitch before the INSTEP part (corner),  decrease again by crocheting last sc st on the side and the first sc Instep stitch together, then crochet across to last Instep sc st and decrease in that corner again with 2 sctog, finish the row with 1 sc into each sc from prev row (to end)

The green arrows represent the ankle ("tube") part,
the yellow arrows point to the 2 sctog in Rnd 5

Rnd 6-11           1 sc into each sc from prev row (I ended up with 26 ankle stitches)
Rnd 12              2 sc in first st, then 1 sc into each sc from prev row (27 sts)
Rnd 13              1 sc into each sc from prev row  (27 sts)
Rnd 14              2 sc in first st, then 1 sc into each sc from prev row (28 sts)
Rnd 15-17        1 sc into each sc from prev row (28 sts)
Rnd 18             1 sc into each sc from prev row until 5 sts from end, then do 1 sl st into each sc from prev row, fasten off (23 sts + 5 sl sts), weave in all tails

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

CROCHETED SEA FOAM BEACH BLOUSE AND SKIRT

I have a passion for knitting and crocheting, and thus I love to browse all different websites and marvel at all the beautiful and "yummy" yarns people spin and color. However, since I am on a budget, I tend to buy yarns when there is a good buy (sale, clearance). If the yarn has a great content (alpaca, merino, silk...) then that is an added bonus.

Italy is well known for its wonderful products - by design and by quality, so when I saw LANA GROSSA at such a great price on "Yarn website", I bought several balls. As I was looking at different colors, I was at the same time designing and knitting or crocheting in my head. I looked at the yarn and was thinking: "I could make myself a nice blouse from this color. And maybe crochet something cool from this color. I could use this color for my YouTube channel.

So today, let me present to you my crocheted blouse and skirt for the beach I designed for myself (and my  virtual crochet friends). I will wear this set with a camisole and tights while having my evening walks on the beach. 

This set is for a women's size medium, but you can size it very easily to any width by increasing or decreasing 8-stitch repeats. Each of my "8-stitch repeat" is 2 inches wide. Therefore, if you need let's say an increase of 6 inches, you would add 24 extra chain stitches [(6/2) x 8] to my initial chain count (the skirt - 149 sts, or the blouse - 77 sts). If you need to make the set for someone small and you need to make it let's say 2 inches narrower (blouse or skirt) you just need to deduct 8 sts from my initial chain count.

The length (of either a blouse or skirt) can be controlled by crocheting number of rows. Crochet yourselves a mini-, midi- or maxidress. Your imagination is the limit. Make it your size and your style.

Do you prefer crocheting along my videos? No problem:

VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES - CLICK HERE

VIDEO FOR LEFTIES: CLICK HERE

PLEASE BE ADVISED - IF SOMETHING IN MY WRITTEN PATTERN IS NOT RIGHT CONTACT ME VIA SOCIAL MEDIA - I DIDN'T HAVE ANYONE TO DO A "TEST DRIVE" - I MAY HAVE OVERLOOKED SOME OF MY WRITTEN NOTES - I HAVE NO TIME TO DO A VERY DETAILED CHECK UP FOR ERROR. I AM WORKING ON ANOTHER PROJECT AS THIS IS BEING PUBLISHED. THANK YOU!!!
ALSO,YOU CAN ALWAYS COMMENT UNDER THE VIDEOS (LINKS ARE ABOVE).

Material:

• 2 balls of Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno; color 001; 70% Cotton, 19% Merino, 11% Alpaca; 570m/150 g per ball for both garments (one ball for each) - FOR YARN REVIEW CLICK HERE
• Hook 5 mm
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:
Women US Medium (chest 36")

Gouge:
2" = 8 sts
1.5" = 3 double crochet rows

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
3dctog - 3 double crochet stitches together (decrease)
ch1sp - chain 1 space
ch3sp - chain 3 space
ch5sp - chain 5 space
fpdc - front post double crochet stitch
bpdc - back post double crochet stitch

Step-by-Step Directions:

BLOUSE - make 2 panels

Foundation:  77 chain stitches - these will produce 75 sts you will work with

3 ROW PATTERN:
Row 1            1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then 1 dc in each ch to end
Row 2            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 3            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

4 ROW PATTERN:
Row 4            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 5            ch2, 1 sc in ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp); *[in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in next ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp)]* - repeat 8x, then in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in last ch1sp, 1 sc in last st (total 9 "V" shaped dc sts)
Row 6            ch3, 1 dc in next st, skip ch3sp, *[7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in sc st, skip ch3sp]* - repeat 8x, finish with 7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, and 1 dc in each of last 2 sts
Row 7            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st

Crochet 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 8-10

5 ROW PATTERN:
Row 11           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat total 18x, 1 dc in last st
Row 12           ch6, skip 1 st, *[3dctog, ch5, skip 1 st]* - repeat 17x, then 3dctog, ch3, skip 1 st, 1 dc in last st
Row 13           ch5, 1 sc in  ch3sp, *[ch5, 1 sc  in ch5sp]* - repeat 17x, ch5, 1 sc in ch2sp, ch2, 1 dc in last st
Row 14           ch4; work in each 3rd ch of ch5sp: *[3 dc, ch1]* - repeat 18x, 1 dc in last st
Row 15           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 18x, 1 dc in last st

Repeat Rows 1-15 one more time (Row 16-30)

Continue to Crochet

• 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 31-33
• and then 4 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 4-7 above) = Rows 34-37

Row 36            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

Shoulder Part

Row 37            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - 9x, 1 dc in last st, turn
Row 38            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

Repeat Row 37 & 38 on the other side of the shoulder.

Finishing:
Either  sew back a front shoulders together, or connnect them togheter with a cable joint (see my video for that joint - link for right handed crocheters and for left handed crocheters is above). Weave in the ends. Crochet long strings (use 2 strands of yarn) - one for your waist and 2 for your tie of the blouse sides - and then attach to each end a tassel (total 6 tassels). 

My waist string is aprox. 56" long. My sting for each side of my blouse is aprox. 22" long.

SKIRT

Foundation:  149 chain stitches - these will produce 147 sts

3 ROW PATTERN:
Row 1            1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then 1 dc in each ch to end
Row 2            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 3            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

4 ROW PATTERN:
Row 4            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 5            ch2, 1 sc in ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp); *[in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in next ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp)]* - repeat 17x, then in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in last ch1sp, 1 sc in last st (total 18 "V" shaped dc sts)
Row 6            ch3, 1 dc in next st, skip ch3sp, *[7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in sc st, skip ch3sp]* - repeat 17x, finish with 7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in each of last 2 sts
Row 7            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]*  - to last st, 1 dc in last st

Crochet 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 8-10

5 ROW PATTERN:
Row 11           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st
Row 12           ch6, skip 1 st, *[3dctog, ch5, skip 1 st]* - repeat 35x, then 3dctog, ch3, skip 1 st, 1 dc in last st
Row 13           ch5, 1 sc in  ch3sp, *[ch5, 1 sc  in ch5sp]* - repeat 35x, ch5, 1 sc in ch2sp, ch2, 1 dc in last st
Row 14           ch4; work in each 3rd ch of ch5sp: *[3 dc, ch1]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st
Row 15           ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st

Repeat Rows 1-15 one more time (Row 16-30)

Continue to Crochet

• 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 31-33
• and then 4 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 4-7 above) = Rows 34-37

Row 35            ch3, 1 dc in each st to end
Row 36            ch3, *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - repeat to end, last st  will be 1 dc

Repeat Row 36 as many times as needed (front post dc stitches into fpdc, and back post dc stitches into bpdc) for your waistband.

Finishing:

Row 1            Crochet along the side as many single crochet stitches as needed (I usually crochet 2 sc sts into each of dc or ch3, and 1 sc into sc)
Row 2            ch1, *[skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st]* - repeat to end, finish with sl st in the last st (you may skip an extra stitch or two at the end to fit your last shell  or two sts well)

Lastly, make 2 tassels, then crochet a long string (crochet a long chain from doubled or tripled strands), attach the first tassel to one end, weave the other end through the waistband, then attach the second tassel. Weave in all the ends and wear your beutiful garment.

****************************

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product made by you, BUT you HAVE TO GIVE me a credit.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Crocheted Scarf With Heart 💛 Shaped Ends

Occasionally I get requests to make a specific video. I usually prefer projects that don't take weeks to finish. After all, I am just a "one-man" show. So when it is something that hits my string, I do grant the requested wish. I sit down and start creating. I love the process of thinking up the things, how to make them work. Occasionally, how to make someone else's work easier as well.

This time a nice crocheter asked: "Please, can you make a crochet version of your Mom's Knitted Scarf?" 

So first, I sat down and did some thinking. Then I did a couple of mini prototypes. I thought: "I should make a video tutorial on how to make a scarf for an American Girl Doll. And include some pointers on how to make it bigger. If you want to make it bigger, you need to adjust the rows and stitches> This way you will crochet a bigger/longer scarf. 

Scroll down to the bottom of this page to read my ideas/pointers on how to make it happen.

Should you want to crochet along with my video click on the appropriate link below.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

RIGHT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.

LEFT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.

OTHER SCARF VIDEOS FOR RIGHTIES CLICK HERE

OTHER SCARF VIDEOS FOR LEFTIES CLICK HERE

Size:
Height - 11", Bottom Width - 5.5"; Top Width - 2.25"
Sweater - build your size with as many squares as needed

Material:
Yarn - Lion Brand Yarns, Mandala; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; in the ball: 590 yards/540m; 5.3 oz/150g - I used several yards of a leftover
Hook - 3.75mm
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
2dctog - decrease by crocheting two double crochet stitches together 
ch1sp - chain one space

st, sts - stitch, stitches

fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet

END HEART/LEAF PIECES
Make 2

Note - at each beginning of the row, ch4 represents ch3=1dc and ch1=ch1sp. Please note there are only ch1 spaces at the beginning of the row and at the end of the row!

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 10 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 8                    ch3, *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn

These 14 sts will separate into two parts - Part A (fpdc sts) and Part B (bpdc sts) - as such:

Part A

Turn as if to work on the wrong side, you will work with 1/2 the stitches +1 (total 8 sts), your 6 bpdc stitches will become now 6 fpdc sts, plus 2 end sts.

Row 9                    ch3, work 1 fpdc in each fpdc (which is actually bpdc before you turned your work around) from prev row ONLY (ignore bpdc sts, which were actually fpdc sts before you turned) - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off

Part B

In Part B you'll work on your right side. Start with a new string (yarn), you will crochet into fpdc stitches only and finish the last dc stitch into your dc stitch from Row 8 (see Row 9)

Row 9                    ch3 (starting in the 3rd ch); then work 1 fpdc in each fpdc that is facing you (bpdc in the prev row) - 6x; 1 dc in the last dc from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off

MIDDLE SCARF PART
The middle part - make 1.  (The pattern in row 3 is worked on multiples of 3 sts + 3.)

Foundation - ch10

Row 1                     1 dc into 4th ch from hook, 1 dc into next 7 consecutive chain sts, (8 sts total) turn
Row 2                     ch3; 1 dc in next st, (increase): 2 dc in each of next 4 consecutive sts from prev row; 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn; Note: I increased the width by 4 sts (= by 50%)

Row 3                     ch4; skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts, *[ch1,  skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts]* - 2x  ch1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch;  (12 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch3; 1 dc in each of next 10 consecutive sts from prev row, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until you reach the desired length - I repeated these 2 rows nine more times (total 10x) - up till Row 22

Row 23                  ch3, 1 dc, (decrease): 2dc-tog in next 8 sts - 4x, 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total); Note: I decreased the width by 4 sts (= by 30%)

FINISHING

Sew or crochet two end pieces on each end of the scarf as INVISIBLY as possible (see a video above). Weave in all the ends.

If you want you can add a tassel on each end of the scarf, or just leave it alone (also see a video above). Put the scarf around the doll's neck and pull one end through the opening of the other end.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO MAKE THIS SCARF BIGGER?

First

THREE 9-ROW TRIANGLES

TRIANGLE #1
with 9 rows and 18 sts at the top should end up with 9 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 10 sts (8 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 4.5",  height 4".

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (16 sts total), turn
Row 8                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn
Row 9                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 16 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn

MIDDLE SCARF PART
You would have to start on 12 chain sts (9 for the base + 3 chain sts in place of dc). Crochet the first row so you have 10 dc sts total (9 dc + ch3 at the beginning).
If you would like to achieve a pattern presented in the video (and in Row 3 of the doll scarf above), you need to increase in the second row in such a way as to have a multiple of 3 sts + 3 extra sts (increase as evenly as possible) - this will be the width of your scarf. Example: (5x3)+3 = 18. Since you are starting with 10 sts, you would need to increase by 8 sts in order to have 18 sts for the pattern.

TRIANGLE #2
with 9 rows and 22 sts at the top should end up with 11 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 12 sts (10 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 5",  height 4".

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch3, 1 dc, ch1, 2 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; 2 dc in ch1, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (8 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (10 sts total), turn
Row 4                     cch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (12 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (14 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (16 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (18 sts total), turn
Row 8                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (20 sts total), turn
Row 9                     ch3; 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in ch1sp, then 1 dc in each of 14 consecutive sts, 2 dc in ch1sp, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (22 sts total), turn

TRIANGLE #3
This triangle has also  9 rows but 24 sts however I do not like the look of this triangle. So I will not write a pattern for it 😉

 

13-ROW TRIANGLE

This triangle is crocheted the same way as TRIANGLE #1, except it is 4 rows longer. It has 13 rows, and 26 sts at the top should end up with 13 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 14 sts (12 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 6.5",  height 5.5".

The Middle Scarf Part would start with 14+2 (16) chain stitches, where the first row would be total 13 dc + ch3. The second row could be increased to 21, 24, 27 or 30 sts, depending how wide you would like the scarf to be.

Consequently the number of decreased sts in the last row would have to be same as the increase in the second row.

WIDER STYLE OF TRIANGLE PATTERN #1:

Should you be interested in a wider version, I played with stitches and here is what I came up with. The last row has 22 sts, which yeilds 11 (+1) sts for the opening parts.

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 3 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (7 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; ch1, skip 3 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (9 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 sts, in ch1sp make 3dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (11 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 3 dc between dc sts, ch1, skip 3 st, 3 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (15 sts total), turn

Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts, ch1, skip 3 sts, 3 dc in ch1sp,  ch1, skip 2 sts, 2 dc between sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (17 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts, skip 2 st, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 3 st, ch1, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (19 sts total), turn

Row 8                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; ch1, skip 3 st, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 3 st, ch1, 2 dc between the sts, skip 2 sts, 2 dc between the sts, skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (21 sts total), turn

Row 9                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 8 consecutive sts, 2 dc in next st (increase), then 1 dc in each of 8 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (22 sts total)

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any size of the scarf) made by you, but you have to give me a credit.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Snowflake No. 7

Celebrate your holiday season with crocheted snowflakes, icicles, and bells. You can have one done in just five rows. Get yourself a cotton thread (I used Aunt Lydia's) and make few snowflakes. Every two or three years I decorate our tree with just my crocheted decorations and some blue lights. Other times I use them for window or dinner table decorating. Either way, occasionally, I love to surround myself with a simple, elegant, white color. 

Abbreviations:
ch - chain

ch2sp - chain 2 space

ch4sp - chain 4 space

ch8sp - chain 4 space
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
join - connect into a circle
sl st - slip stitch

VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES - coming soon

VIDEO FOR LEFTIES - coming soon

PLAYLIST FOR OTHER CROCHET DECORATIONS

CLICK HERE FOR VIDEO "HOW TO STARCH YOUR BELL"

Material:
Yarn - Aunt Lydia Crochet Cotton Yarn #10
Hook - Stainless Steel Size 7 (1.65mm)

Scissors

Yarn Needle

Directions: 

Rnd 1         magic loop - ch1, then 12 sc - join into first sc
Rnd 2         ch5 (ch3=1dc, ch2=ch2sp), then in each st: *[1 dc, ch2]* - 11x, join

Rnd 3        ch1, then in each ch2sp 3 sc (total 12x), join into first sc

Rnd 4        ch1, then 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next 2 st, *[ch8, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, ch4, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts]* - 5x, ch8, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, join with 1 dc into first sc

Rnd 5       *[ch2, then into next ch8sp: (2 dc, ch2, 3 dc, ch4, 3 dc, ch2, 2 dc, ch2); into next ch5sp: (1 sc)]* - repeat 6x, join into first dc

Optional: make a loop for hanging (or use a wire hook for Christmas decorations for hanging). Weave in all the tails with a yarn needle. 

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Earth Day Shawl - When You Take A Variegated Yarn And Use A Granny Square Pattern No 6

 

I bought a beautiful variegated green-brown yarn by Plymouth Yarns and I had it stashed away for like three years. About a year ago I pulled my yarn out from my hiding place, I took my granny square pattern number six and started crocheting my newest project. First I wanted to make a poncho. But then I decided that a shawl will be better for me since I could wrap it around or use it as a wide scarf.

I realized I am on the right track to creating something beautiful as soon as I attached few squares together - I attached each square immediately to the one already finished - see my videos for righties and lefties. The way the colors blended and came together I knew I will hold soon (well actually as soon as I finish) an elegant and alluring piece of garment. 

If you would like to work on this project be aware that, unfortunately, they do not make this yarn anymore. That is what happens when we hide your yarns away from our husbands for too long 😉and you forget about them. But, I found a replacement of similar yarns for you - click HERE.  One of the yarns they suggest is Lana Grossa, which I love a lot. Recently I finished a couple of projects using Lana Grossa yarns and I am using another type of their yarns to knit a blouse for my petite daughter. Don't forget to scroll down to see many other choices. Maybe you will like the idea of using Madelintosh yarns. Or try to find online "one-ply lace yarn" that is baby alpaca/merino blend and that is variegated.

Anyway... I used my granny square #6 design (a link for the pattern is below) to turn these squares into a wide and long rectangle. I used 84 squares - 6 squares along the width of the shawl and 14 squares along the length. I still may do the 15th row to make my shawl even longer since I have about 1/2 a ball leftover.

I can also envision a really gorgeous baby blanket using this granny square. Or a throw. Or a scarf. You could make your own version of this design.

So, if you would like to crochet this shawl (or any suggested projects) check out the links and information below:

Materials:

Yarn - 6+ balls of Plymouth Yarns, Revel (depending on how wide and long your shawl/scarf/blanket you want); color: #16 Moss; weight: lace; 85% baby alpaca, 15% Merino Wool;
Hook - 2.75 mm (or use the link above for any similar yarn)
Yarn needle
Scissors

Size of each square:

Approximately 4"x4"

Links:

GRANNY SQUARE PATTERN NO. 6

VIDEO HOW TO ATTACH GRANNY SQUARES NO. 6 FOR RIGHTIES

VIDEO HOW TO ATTACH GRANNY SQUARES NO. 6 FOR LEFTIES 

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

"V-Neckline" Granny Square Half - For Foggy Dawn Sweater Project

WOW, I cannot believe that I forgot to publish my granny square #7 for the neckline area - the triangle (also called the "V") part. And it has been a year since I published a written pattern for Granny Square #6  😲!!! I just made a Granny Square #7 video tutorial last year, but never published the written pattern. OK, it is time to fix it. 

In this square (actually rather a triangle) I decided to use many tiny triangles within a big triangle. You can flip it (use the "wrong side") for the other side of the sweater, or crochet sloping (diagonal) line on the opposite side (you may have to figure that one on your own). 

Also if your arms are heavier than mine (mine are close to the toothpick size, well not really, but they are rather thinner than most of the people) make an insert under the arm. I videotaped how to do that and will publish this soon. 

Sorry, my dear crocheters it took so long - I got sidetracked. I do that often. Too many ideas in my head.

Soooo, happy crocheting.

LINKS TO ALL VIDEOS REGARDING THIS PROJECT (INCLUDING THE INTRODUCTION):

• PLAYLIST WITH VIDEOS FOR RIGHTIES CLICK HERE
• PLAYLIST WITH VIDEOS FOR LEFTIES CLICK HERE

BLOG POSTS WITH FREE WRITTEN PATTERNS REGARDING THIS PROJECT:

• Introduction to this project
• Granny Square #1
• Granny Square #2
• Granny Square #3
• Granny Square #4
• Granny Square #5
• Granny Square #6
• Granny Square #7

Size:
Height - 11", Bottom Width - 5.5"; Top Width - 2.25"
Sweater - build your size with as many squares as needed

Material:
Yarn - Loops & Threads; Snuggly Wuggly; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; 446 yards/408m; 5 oz/141g
Hook - F/5, 3.75mm
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
sl st - slip stitch
YO - yarn over
sp - space
dc sp - double crochet space
ch1sp - one chain space
ch2sp - two chain space
ch3sp - three chain space
ch4sp - four chain space
ch5sp - five chain space
ch6sp - six chain space
prev - previous
5-dc st - 5 double crochet stitch

**********************************

Triangle For the Front "V"

Foundation: ch22

Row 1          make 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, *[ch3, skip next 3 sts, 1 sc in next st]* - 5x, turn

Row 2          ch4, in ch3sp: (2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), then *[in each ch3sp: (1 sc, ch3, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc)]* - 4x; turn

Row 3          ch6 (counts as dc + ch3sp), skip 4 sts, make 1 sc in ch3sp, *[ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  ch3 sp]* - 4x, then ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  last ch4sp

Row 4          same as Row 2

Row 5          same as Row 3

Row 6         (decreasing row) ch4 , skip ch3sp, then in 2nd ch3sp: (1dc, ch1, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), then *[in each ch3 sp: (1 sc, ch3, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc)]* - 3x; turn

Row 7          ch6 (counts as dc + ch3sp), skip 4 sts, make 1 sc in ch3 sp, *[ch3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in ch3sp]* - 2x, then ch3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  last dc from prev row; turn

Row 8          ch4, in ch3 sp (2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), then *[in each ch3 sp (1 sc, ch3, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc)]* - 3x; turn

Row 9         ch6 (counts as dc + ch3sp), skip 4 sts, make 1 sc in ch3sp, *[ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  ch3 sp]* - 2x, then ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  last ch4sp

Row 10        same as Row 8

Row 11        same as Row 9

Row 12        (decreasing row) ch5, skip ch3sp,, then in 2nd ch3sp (1dc, ch1, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), then *[in each ch3 sp (1 sc, ch3, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc)]* - 2x; turn

Row 13          ch6 (counts as dc + ch3), skip 4 sts, make 1 sc in ch3 sp, ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  ch3sp], then ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  last dc from prev row; turn

Row 14          ch4, in ch3 sp (2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), then *[in each ch3sp (1 sc, ch3, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc)]* - 3x; turn

Row 15         ch6 (counts as dc + ch3), skip 4 sts, make 1 sc in ch3sp, ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  ch3sp], then ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  last ch4sp

Row 16        same as Row 14

Row 17        same as Row 15

Row 18        (decreasing row) ch5, skip 4 sts, then in 2nd ch3sp (1dc, ch1, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), then in last ch3sp (1 sc, ch3, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc); turn

Row 19          ch6 (counts as dc + ch3), skip 4 sts, make 1 sc in ch3sp, ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  last dc from prev row; turn

Row 20          ch4, in ch3sp (2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), then in ch3sp (1 sc, ch3, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc); turn

Row 21         ch6 (counts as dc + ch3), skip 4 sts, make 1 sc in ch3 sp, ch 3, skip 4 sts, 1 sc in  last ch4sp

Row 22        same as Row 20

Row 23        same as Row 21

Edge:

side 1

turn your as to work on Right side and continue crocheting as such: ch2, *[(2 sc in ch3sp, 1 sc in ch1) - 2x, 4 sc along ch5,  1 sc in ch1]* - 3x, then finish the side with (2 sc in ch3sp, 1 sc in ch1) - 2x,

side 2

turn your work 90º and work the corner as such: sl st into ch1, ch4, in first ch3sp make 3 dc, ch2, 2 dc, in 2nd ch3sp make 2 dc, ch2 , in 3rd 3chsp make 4 dc, ch2, in 4th ch3sp make 2 dc, in 5th ch3sp make 2 dc, in the corner make (ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc)

side 3

turn your work 90º and continue crocheting along the long side as such: *[in next ch3sp 4 dc, ch2]* - 3x; skip ch3sp, then *[in next ch3sp 3 dc, ch2]* - 2x; then *[in next ch3sp 4 dc, ch2]* - 3x;

side 4

turn your work 90º and continue crocheting along the shortest side as such: treat ch6sp as corner - make (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc), then ch2, 3 dc in ch3sp, 1 dc in initial ch1

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.