This time a nice crocheter asked: "Please, can you make a crochet version of your Mom's Knitted Scarf?"
So first, I sat down and did some thinking. Then I did a couple of mini prototypes. I thought: "I should make a video tutorial on how to make a scarf for an American Girl Doll. And include some pointers on how to make it bigger. If you want to make it bigger, you need to adjust the rows and stitches> This way you will crochet a bigger/longer scarf.
Scroll down to the bottom of this page to read my ideas/pointers on how to make it happen.
Should you want to crochet along with my video click on the appropriate link below.
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RIGHT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.
LEFT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.
Height - 11", Bottom Width - 5.5"; Top Width - 2.25"
Sweater - build your size with as many squares as needed
Material:
Yarn - Lion Brand Yarns, Mandala; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; in the ball: 590 yards/540m; 5.3 oz/150g - I used several yards of a leftover
Hook - 3.75mm
Yarn needle
Scissors
Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
2dctog - decrease by crocheting two double crochet stitches together
ch1sp - chain one space
bpdc - back post double crochet
Make 2
Note - at each beginning of the row, ch4 represents ch3=1dc and ch1=ch1sp. Please note there are only ch1 spaces at the beginning of the row and at the end of the row!
Row 1 In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2 ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7 ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 10 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 8 ch3, *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
These 14 sts will separate into two parts - Part A (fpdc sts) and Part B (bpdc sts) - as such:
Part A
Turn as if to work on the wrong side, you will work with 1/2 the stitches +1 (total 8 sts), your 6 bpdc stitches will become now 6 fpdc sts, plus 2 end sts.
Row 9 ch3, work 1 fpdc in each fpdc (which is actually bpdc before you turned your work around) from prev row ONLY (ignore bpdc sts, which were actually fpdc sts before you turned) - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10 ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11 ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12 ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13 ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off
Part B
In Part B you'll work on your right side. Start with a new string (yarn), you will crochet into fpdc stitches only and finish the last dc stitch into your dc stitch from Row 8 (see Row 9)
Row 9 ch3 (starting in the 3rd ch); then work 1 fpdc in each fpdc that is facing you (bpdc in the prev row) - 6x; 1 dc in the last dc from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10 ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11 ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12 ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13 ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off
MIDDLE SCARF PART
The middle part - make 1. (The pattern in row 3 is worked on multiples of 3 sts + 3.)
Foundation - ch10
Row 1 1 dc into 4th ch from hook, 1 dc into next 7 consecutive chain sts, (8 sts total) turn
Row 2 ch3; 1 dc in next st, (increase): 2 dc in each of next 4 consecutive sts from prev row; 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn; Note: I increased the width by 4 sts (= by 50%)
Row 3 ch4; skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts, *[ch1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts]* - 2x ch1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn
Row 4 ch3; 1 dc in each of next 10 consecutive sts from prev row, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn
Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until you reach the desired length - I repeated these 2 rows nine more times (total 10x) - up till Row 22
Row 23 ch3, 1 dc, (decrease): 2dc-tog in next 8 sts - 4x, 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total); Note: I decreased the width by 4 sts (= by 30%)
FINISHING
Sew or crochet two end pieces on each end of the scarf as INVISIBLY as possible (see a video above). Weave in all the ends.
If you want you can add a tassel on each end of the scarf, or just leave it alone (also see a video above). Put the scarf around the doll's neck and pull one end through the opening of the other end.
WOULD YOU LIKE TO MAKE THIS SCARF BIGGER?
with 9 rows and 18 sts at the top should end up with 9 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 10 sts (8 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 4.5", height 4".
Row 2 ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (16 sts total), turn
Row 8 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn
Row 9 ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 16 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn
You would have to start on 12 chain sts (9 for the base + 3 chain sts in place of dc). Crochet the first row so you have 10 dc sts total (9 dc + ch3 at the beginning).
If you would like to achieve a pattern presented in the video (and in Row 3 of the doll scarf above), you need to increase in the second row in such a way as to have a multiple of 3 sts + 3 extra sts (increase as evenly as possible) - this will be the width of your scarf. Example: (5x3)+3 = 18. Since you are starting with 10 sts, you would need to increase by 8 sts in order to have 18 sts for the pattern.
TRIANGLE #2
with 9 rows and 22 sts at the top should end up with 11 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 12 sts (10 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 5", height 4".
Row 1 In the magic circle: crochet ch3, 1 dc, ch1, 2 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2 ch3, 1dc, ch1; 2 dc in ch1, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (8 sts total), turn
Row 3 ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (10 sts total), turn
Row 4 cch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (12 sts total), turn
Row 5 ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (14 sts total), turn
Row 6 ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (16 sts total), turn
Row 7 ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (18 sts total), turn
Row 8 ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (20 sts total), turn
Row 9 ch3; 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in ch1sp, then 1 dc in each of 14 consecutive sts, 2 dc in ch1sp, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (22 sts total), turn
This triangle has also 9 rows but 24 sts however I do not like the look of this triangle. So I will not write a pattern for it 😉
Consequently the number of decreased sts in the last row would have to be same as the increase in the second row.
Row 2 ch4; 3 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (7 sts total), turn
Row 3 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; ch1, skip 3 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (9 sts total), turn
Row 4 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 sts, in ch1sp make 3dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (11 sts total), turn
Row 5 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 3 dc between dc sts, ch1, skip 3 st, 3 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (15 sts total), turn
Row 7 ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts, skip 2 st, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 3 st, ch1, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (19 sts total), turn
Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any size of the scarf) made by you, but you have to give me a credit.
Thank you.
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