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Knitted Chunky Sweater

I love yarn, and often I want to buy more. I search various yarn websites and marvel at all those beautiful skeins and dream what I could knit or crochet with them. But lately, I have been trying to be strict with myself. Seriously. I need to de-stash my yarn from all the hiding places. What can be quite sad is that by the time I get to knit some of the projects, the yarn is discontinued. Ugh, grrrr. 

I bought this extravagant-looking yarn about five years ago. Four bags. Twenty balls of a greenish and twenty balls of a pinkish color. About two weeks ago, I pulled out the yummy green one with orange and purple speckles. I thought: "This will make a nice warm sweater for my petite daughter." 

Here we are today - let me share a finished written pattern of the top-down sweater for XS/S women. Although the company discontinued this yarn, you may opt for another super bulky one, which yields 8 sts and 11 rows in 4", and you should be fine. Yes, the sweater will look different, but it will be your design knitted with my pattern.

f you are interested in watching my video about this sweater where I am presenting how to start a sleeve, you may click on one of the links below.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.


VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES

VIDEO FOR LEFTIES 

Enjoy.


Materials:
16 balls of ARTFUL YARNS, Palace; 48% wool, 45% acrylic, 7% nylon; Color: 366; 50g/1.75 oz; 27 yds/ 24.7 m;
Knitting needles - circular and DPNs, US size #15, 10 mm
Hook 9mm (see the sleeve part in the video)
Yarn needle
Buttons

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
KE - knit edge (= knit 4 sts for edge)
K - knit
K1tbl - knit one stitch through the back loop
sl1wyf - slip one (last) stitch with yarn in front 
P - purl
M1 - increase by making 1 st between the stitches
K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip knitwise, slip knitwise, knit both stitches through the back loop
BO - bind of your stitches


Size:
women XS/S

Measurements:


YOKE

CO 48 sts

Note: place buttonholes every 20, 22, or 24 rows after the first initial buttonhole in the seventh row. Your choice of how close/far together you would like to have them.

Row 1-4              K48
Row 5                 K1tbl, K3; *[M1, K4]* - 10x,  M1; K3, sl1wyf
Row 6                 K1tbl, K3; P51; K3, sl1wyf
Row 7                 K1tbl, K3; *[M1, K5]* - 10x, M1, K1; K2tog, YO (button hole), K1, sl1wyf
Row 8                 K1tbl, K3; P62; K3, sl1wyf
Row 9                 K1tbl, K3; K1, *[M1, K6]* - 10x,  M1, K1; K3, sl1wyf
Row 10               K1tbl, K3; P73; K3, sl1wyf
Row 11               K1tbl, K3; K2, *[M1, K7]* - 10x, M1, K1; K3, sl1wyf
Row 12               K1tbl, K3; P84; K3, sl1wyf
Row 13               K1tbl, K3; K6, *[M1, K8]* - 9x, M1, K6; K3, sl1wyf
Row 14               K1tbl, K3; P94; K3, sl1wyf
Row 15               K1tbl, K3; K94; K3, sl1wyf
Row 16               K1tbl, K3; P94; K3, sl1wyf
Row 17               K1tbl, K3; K6, *[M1, K9]* - 9x, M1, K7; K3, sl1wyf
Row 18               K1tbl, K3; P104; K3, sl1wyf
Row 19               K1tbl, K3; K104; K3, sl1wyf
Row 20               K1tbl, K3; P104; K3, sl1wyf
Row 21               K1tbl, K3; K7, *[M1, K10]* - 9x, M1, K7; K3, sl1wyf
Row 22               K1tbl, K3; P114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 23               K1tbl, K3; K114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 24               K1tbl, K3; P114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 25               K1tbl, K3; K114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 26               K1tbl, K3; P114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 27               K1tbl, K3; K8, *[M1, K11]* - 9x, M1, K7; K3, sl1wyf
Row 28               K1tbl, K3; P124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 29               K1tbl, K3; K124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 30               K1tbl, K3; P124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 31               K1tbl, K3; K124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 32               K1tbl, K3; P124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 33               K1tbl, K3; K19 ( front #1), move 24 sts on holder/string - stitches on your holder will be knitted later (sleeve #1), CO 2 sts, connect the front part to the back part by knitting next 38 sts, move 24 sts on holder/string - stitches on your holder will be knitted later (sleeve #2), CO 2 stsconnect the back part to the front part by knitting next 19 stitches (front #2); K3, sl1wyf

Note: you should have stitches as such:
EDGE: 4 sts;
FRONT: 19 sts; plus 
2 extra sts for underarm;
BACK: 38 sts; plus 
2 extra sts for underarm; 
FRONT: 19 sts; 
EDGE: 4 sts;

Also - if your arms' circumference is bigger add more underarm stitches, but remember to change the stitch count below.

The back of the sweater


BODY - repeat Row 1 & Row 2 many times until you have desired length. I knitted 14 inches (40 rows) measured from the underarm.

Row 1               K1tbl, K3; P80; K3, sl1wyf
Row 2               K1tbl, K3; K80; K3, sl1wyf

BOTTOM BODY EDGE

Row 1-6           K88 (After knitting your desired length of the body, knit 6 rows of garter stitch), BO your last row and weave in the tail


SLEEVES

Work in the round. Start with the underarm area (for reference RIGHTIES can watch my video HERE, and LEFTIES can watch the video HERE). There are 2 extra stitches (but it looks like there are 4 sts).

Rnd 1                Start in the middle of your underarm area - CO one stitch of the 2 underarm sts, then CO one extra stitch to close the gap between your CO stitch and the first stitch of the sleeve; then K24; then  CO 2 more sts - again closing the gap between the sleeve stitches and underarm stitches - total 28 stitches (4 CO + 4 sleeve sts)
Rnd 2-10            K28
Rnd 11                K2tog, K24, SSK
Rnd 12-20          K26
Rnd 21                K2tog, K22, SSK
Rnd 22-30          K24
Rnd 31                K2tog, K20, SSK
Rnd 32-40          K22
Rnd 41                K2tog, K18, SSK
Rnd 42-52          K20
Rnd 53                P20
Rnd 54                K20
Rnd 55                P20
Rnd 56                K20
Rnd 57                P20
Rnd 58                K20
Rnd 59                BO 20sts and weave in the tail

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

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Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.