AZURE - American Girl Doll Dress

When knitting was not as popular as today, I did a few "American Girl Doll Fashion Shows" for local libraries. I knitted many outfits for my four AGDs and one Madam Alexander (one day I will show you those outfits in the video), then I dressed them up, took other pieces of their wardrobe to a library, and displayed them where children and adults could see the "knitted fashions." 

Today, I would love to share with you another dress that I designed, and this time I also videotaped the making of the dress. If you knit this dress I hope you will make a little girl very happy. 

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

VIDEOS FOR RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS:

1. VERY DETAILED VIDEO TUTORIAL - PART 1/2 (dress)
2. VERY DETAILED VIDEO TUTORIAL - PART 2/2 (lacy pattern)

VIDEOS FOR LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS:

1. VERY DETAILED VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR LEFTIES PART 1/2 (dress)
2. VERY DETAILED VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR LEFTIES PART 2/2 (lacy pattern)

If you would rather like to follow the written pattern then scroll down. Happy knitting.

Material:

• Yarn - LANA GROSSA, Gomitolo Puno; Color: 013; Light (3); 70% Cotton, 19% Merino Wool, 11% Alpaca; 5.3 oz/150g; 623 yd/570 m; I used 40 g/1.42 oz of yarn
• Knitting needles #4 (3.5 mm)
• Markers
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors
• Button

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

M - marker
K - knit
P - purl

YO - yarn over

K3tog - knit 3 stitches together

S3K - slip each stitch knitwise three times, place them back on the needle and knit through the back loop

CDD - center double decrease - slip two stitches as if to knit them together, knit next stitch, then pass two slipped stitches over the knitted one
P-row# - pattern row number

Gauge:

4" x 4" = 22 sts x 30 rows

Measurements:

Step-by-Step Directions:

This dress is knitted top-down. First, it is knitted back and forth, then in the round.

CO 58 sts

Row 1-5        *[K1, P1]* - 29x, turn
Row 6            *[K1, P1]* - 2x, K50, *[K1, P1]* - 2x, turn
Row 7            *[K1, P1]* - 2x, P50, *[K1, P1]* - 2x, turn

Row 8            *[K1, P1]* - 2x, M, K8, m1, K1, M, K1, m1, K3, m1, K1, M, K1, m1, K20, m1, K1, M, K1, m1, K3, m1, K1, M, K1, m1, K8, M *[K1, P1]* - 2x, turn

Row 9            *[K1, P1]* - 2x, P58, *[K1, P1]* - 2x, turn

Repeat Rows 8 & 9 eleven more times (total 12x, including Rows 8 & 9) while adding 8 new stitches in every EVEN row (Rows 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30), thus purling 8 more stitches in every ODD row. You should add 96 sts in total.

CONNECT BACKS TO FRONT:

Before you start connecting fronts and back together put sleeve stitches on holders (I use 2 thick strings).

First, work on overlapping and connecting both back parts together as such:

Overlap both edges (the buttonhole side on the top!) in such a way that you will K2tog 1st buttonhole side stitch with 4th stitch of the other edge (this will be beginning of your new round), 2nd buttonhole side stitch with 3rd stitch of the other edge, 3rd buttonhole side stitch with 2nd stitch of the other edge, 4th buttonhole side stitch with 1st stitch of the other edge (see the video if you need help). You can remove all the markers as you knit. Also, remember you knitted 2 sts together 4x, thus you will have 46 sts for the back. (If needed you can watch the video - Part 1).

Now you are ready to connect fronts and back (knit in the round):

Rnd 1            K21, CO 1 st,  K46, CO 1 st, K21 (total 94 sts = 4+21+1+46+1+21)
Rnd 2-3         K94
Rnd 4            P94
Rnd 5            Make 8 holes for the ribbon: K6, K2tog, YO, *[K10, K2tog, YO]* - 3x; K8, K2tog, YO; *[K10, K2tog, YO]* - 3x; K4 
Rnd 6            K94
Rnd 7            P94

Rnd 8-?         K94 

Repeat Rnd 8 as many times as needed until you reach 4", depending on if you want to knit a lacy pattern at the bottom of the dress. If you don't want to knit a lacy pattern then knit another inch and then finish with 5-6 rows of either the ribbing or the garter stitch to prevent curling of the edge. 

You could also make the dress longer by knitting more rounds before the pattern OR keep repeating the lacy pattern few more times.

NOTE:

Before you will start with the lacy pattern, you need to add 5 extra sts in your last round - distribute these stitchers evenly among 94 sts (make one stitch about every 18-19 sts). You need to have 99 sts total. You will work with 11 stitch repeats - that means for the lacy pattern you will do 9 REPEATS.

LACY PATTERN:

Rnd 1            K2tog-2x; *[YO, K1]* - 3x; YO; SSK - 2x (Repeat 9x)

Rnd 2-3         K11 (Repeat 9x)

• Repeat Rnd 1-3 three more times (Rnd 4-12);
• Then repeat Rnd 1 and 2 (Rnd 13 & 14), before you will finish the dress with the garter stitch edging (Rnd 15-19)

Rnd 15          P11 (Repeat 9x)
Rnd 16          K11 (Repeat 9x)

Rnd 17          P11 (Repeat 9x)
Rnd 18          K11 (Repeat 9x)

In Rnd 19 BO by using purl stitches.

SLEEVES

Note: There are 29 sts for each sleeve. Since we CO one stitch between front and back (each side) we need to CO in the underarm area in such a way that we will not have any holes. If you observe you can fit in five (5) extra stitches. That will bring the total stitches for the sleeve to 34 sts. (If needed you can watch the video - Part 1).

Knit the sleeves in the round.

Rnd 1            Starting in the middle of the underarm area CO 3 sts, K29, then finish CO 2 more sts
Rnd 2-7         *[K1, P1]* - 17x
Rnd 8            BO all the stitches, weave in the ends.

 
Note: If you wish to knit long sleeves then instead of ribbing keep knitting in the round and decreasing 1 sts at the beginning of the row, and 1 stitch at the end every few rows (approx. every 6 rows) - about four times, then finish the sleeve with 5-6 rows of ribbing.

Weave in all remaining ends/tails. Block. Dress up the American Girl Doll or give it as a gift.

****************************

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any size of the scarf) made by you, but you have to give me a credit.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Crocheted Scarf With Heart 💛 Shaped Ends

Occasionally I get requests to make a specific video. I usually prefer projects that don't take weeks to finish. After all, I am just a "one-man" show. So when it is something that hits my string, I do grant the requested wish. I sit down and start creating. I love the process of thinking up the things, how to make them work. Occasionally, how to make someone else's work easier as well.

This time a nice crocheter asked: "Please, can you make a crochet version of your Mom's Knitted Scarf?" 

So first, I sat down and did some thinking. Then I did a couple of mini prototypes. I thought: "I should make a video tutorial on how to make a scarf for an American Girl Doll. And include some pointers on how to make it bigger. If you want to make it bigger, you need to adjust the rows and stitches> This way you will crochet a bigger/longer scarf. 

Scroll down to the bottom of this page to read my ideas/pointers on how to make it happen.

Should you want to crochet along with my video click on the appropriate link below.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

RIGHT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.

LEFT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.

OTHER SCARF VIDEOS FOR RIGHTIES CLICK HERE

OTHER SCARF VIDEOS FOR LEFTIES CLICK HERE

Size:
Height - 11", Bottom Width - 5.5"; Top Width - 2.25"
Sweater - build your size with as many squares as needed

Material:
Yarn - Lion Brand Yarns, Mandala; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; in the ball: 590 yards/540m; 5.3 oz/150g - I used several yards of a leftover
Hook - 3.75mm
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
2dctog - decrease by crocheting two double crochet stitches together 
ch1sp - chain one space

st, sts - stitch, stitches

fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet

END HEART/LEAF PIECES
Make 2

Note - at each beginning of the row, ch4 represents ch3=1dc and ch1=ch1sp. Please note there are only ch1 spaces at the beginning of the row and at the end of the row!

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 10 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 8                    ch3, *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn

These 14 sts will separate into two parts - Part A (fpdc sts) and Part B (bpdc sts) - as such:

Part A

Turn as if to work on the wrong side, you will work with 1/2 the stitches +1 (total 8 sts), your 6 bpdc stitches will become now 6 fpdc sts, plus 2 end sts.

Row 9                    ch3, work 1 fpdc in each fpdc (which is actually bpdc before you turned your work around) from prev row ONLY (ignore bpdc sts, which were actually fpdc sts before you turned) - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off

Part B

In Part B you'll work on your right side. Start with a new string (yarn), you will crochet into fpdc stitches only and finish the last dc stitch into your dc stitch from Row 8 (see Row 9)

Row 9                    ch3 (starting in the 3rd ch); then work 1 fpdc in each fpdc that is facing you (bpdc in the prev row) - 6x; 1 dc in the last dc from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off

MIDDLE SCARF PART
The middle part - make 1.  (The pattern in row 3 is worked on multiples of 3 sts + 3.)

Foundation - ch10

Row 1                     1 dc into 4th ch from hook, 1 dc into next 7 consecutive chain sts, (8 sts total) turn
Row 2                     ch3; 1 dc in next st, (increase): 2 dc in each of next 4 consecutive sts from prev row; 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn; Note: I increased the width by 4 sts (= by 50%)

Row 3                     ch4; skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts, *[ch1,  skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts]* - 2x  ch1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch;  (12 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch3; 1 dc in each of next 10 consecutive sts from prev row, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until you reach the desired length - I repeated these 2 rows nine more times (total 10x) - up till Row 22

Row 23                  ch3, 1 dc, (decrease): 2dc-tog in next 8 sts - 4x, 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total); Note: I decreased the width by 4 sts (= by 30%)

FINISHING

Sew or crochet two end pieces on each end of the scarf as INVISIBLY as possible (see a video above). Weave in all the ends.

If you want you can add a tassel on each end of the scarf, or just leave it alone (also see a video above). Put the scarf around the doll's neck and pull one end through the opening of the other end.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO MAKE THIS SCARF BIGGER?

First

THREE 9-ROW TRIANGLES

TRIANGLE #1
with 9 rows and 18 sts at the top should end up with 9 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 10 sts (8 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 4.5",  height 4".

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (16 sts total), turn
Row 8                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn
Row 9                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 16 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn

MIDDLE SCARF PART
You would have to start on 12 chain sts (9 for the base + 3 chain sts in place of dc). Crochet the first row so you have 10 dc sts total (9 dc + ch3 at the beginning).
If you would like to achieve a pattern presented in the video (and in Row 3 of the doll scarf above), you need to increase in the second row in such a way as to have a multiple of 3 sts + 3 extra sts (increase as evenly as possible) - this will be the width of your scarf. Example: (5x3)+3 = 18. Since you are starting with 10 sts, you would need to increase by 8 sts in order to have 18 sts for the pattern.

TRIANGLE #2
with 9 rows and 22 sts at the top should end up with 11 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 12 sts (10 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 5",  height 4".

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch3, 1 dc, ch1, 2 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; 2 dc in ch1, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (8 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (10 sts total), turn
Row 4                     cch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (12 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (14 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (16 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (18 sts total), turn
Row 8                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (20 sts total), turn
Row 9                     ch3; 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in ch1sp, then 1 dc in each of 14 consecutive sts, 2 dc in ch1sp, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (22 sts total), turn

TRIANGLE #3
This triangle has also  9 rows but 24 sts however I do not like the look of this triangle. So I will not write a pattern for it 😉

 

13-ROW TRIANGLE

This triangle is crocheted the same way as TRIANGLE #1, except it is 4 rows longer. It has 13 rows, and 26 sts at the top should end up with 13 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 14 sts (12 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 6.5",  height 5.5".

The Middle Scarf Part would start with 14+2 (16) chain stitches, where the first row would be total 13 dc + ch3. The second row could be increased to 21, 24, 27 or 30 sts, depending how wide you would like the scarf to be.

Consequently the number of decreased sts in the last row would have to be same as the increase in the second row.

WIDER STYLE OF TRIANGLE PATTERN #1:

Should you be interested in a wider version, I played with stitches and here is what I came up with. The last row has 22 sts, which yeilds 11 (+1) sts for the opening parts.

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 3 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (7 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; ch1, skip 3 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (9 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 sts, in ch1sp make 3dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (11 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 3 dc between dc sts, ch1, skip 3 st, 3 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (15 sts total), turn

Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts, ch1, skip 3 sts, 3 dc in ch1sp,  ch1, skip 2 sts, 2 dc between sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (17 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts, skip 2 st, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 3 st, ch1, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (19 sts total), turn

Row 8                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; ch1, skip 3 st, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 3 st, ch1, 2 dc between the sts, skip 2 sts, 2 dc between the sts, skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (21 sts total), turn

Row 9                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 8 consecutive sts, 2 dc in next st (increase), then 1 dc in each of 8 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (22 sts total)

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any size of the scarf) made by you, but you have to give me a credit.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Crocheted Hat for AGD Or Preemie Baby - Be My Valentine

Few days ago I was helping my friend with a crochet pattern she could not just get a grip on - and as I was trying to explain to her how to do a certain stitch (front post dc alternating with regular dc) I started an example for her... and since I started an example I decided to turn it into a hat that could be used for the American Girl Doll, or Madam Alexander or even a precious preemie baby.

However, you could make it into a bigger hat! How?

My hat's first row has ch3 + 12 dc; at the end of Row 3 I have ch3 + 38 dc. From then on, starting with 4th row, I worked with 39 sts (ch3 + 38 + 1 extra dc) and that gave me a circumference of  about 11".

If you would make in the first row ch3 + 13 dc and you'd do the repeats as described below, you would end up at the end of 4th row with ch3 + 42 + 1 dc = 43 dc (or sts) + ch3. These 3 extra sts will give you circumference of about 12".
If you would make ch3 + 14 dc in first row and you do the same repeats, you wwould end up at the end of 4th row with ch3 + 44 + 1 dc = 45 dc (or sts) + ch3. These 6 extra sts (from original below) will give you circumference of about 12.75".  So each 1 extra  st in first row will generate 3 sts by the time you reach 4th row, and it should add 0.75" to the circumference.

So, for example if you want to make this hat with 16" circumference and my original pattern written below is for 11", you need to add 5". So let's do some math of how many stitches you would need to add to the first row of my original pattern written below:

5" : 0.75" = 6.666
(Note: remember? 1 stitch in first row = to 3 sts extra in 4th row = 0.75")

The answer tells me that I would need 6.666 stitches (or rather 6 or 7 stitches) to add to my 12 dc in first row. Therefore I would have to start with 12+6=18 sts OR 12+7=19 sts (depending if I'd want it smaller 16" or bigger 16"). And if I do all the same repeats (plus few more of course) all the way to 4th row, at the 4th row I would have ch3 + 54 +1 dc  OR ch3 + 57 +1 dc. And then I would just follow with pattern to the desired height, where you would need to add 1 or more rows either in dc or sc stitches.

Enjoy and make someone happy on Valentine's Day. It will be here soon :-)


Abbreviations:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
st(s) - stitch(s)
fpdc - front post double crochet
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color


Material:
Yarn - Lion Brand "Pound Of Love", worsted #4, color "Antique White" (MC), several yards; Loops & Threads "Snuggly Wuggly", light #3, color "Cotton Candy" (CC), few yards
Hook - G/4.0mm
Scissors

Gouge:
measured over double crochet sts
2"x2" = 7.5 sts x 5 rows


HAT

Size:
Circumference - 11" (13.5")
Height - 4.75" (5.5")

Foundation:
MC Yarn
magic circle OR ch3, join

Rnd 1          ch3, 12 dc, join
Rnd 2          ch3, 2 dc into each st, join (total ch3 + 24 sts)
Rnd 3          ch 3, *[2 dc into first st, 1 dc into next st]* - repeat from * to * total 12x, finish with 2 dc into next st - right before the ch3 at the beginning, join (total ch3 + 38 sts)
Rnd 4         ch3, *[fpdc into first dc from prev row, 1 dc (regular) into next st]* - repeat from * to * total 19x, finish with fpdc around the last dc before ch3 (which means you will make regular dc into that stitch and then one more dc as fpdc;  join (total ch3 + 39 sts)
Rnd 5          ch3, *[1dc (regular) into first st, fpdc into next st]* - repeat from * to * total 19x, finish with 1 dc (regular) around the last st, join (total ch3 + 39 sts)
Rnd 6         ch3, *[fpdc into first dc from prev row, 1 dc (regular) into next st]* - repeat from * to * total 19x, finish with fpdc around the last st, join (total ch3 + 39 sts)

CC Yarn
Rnd 7          ch3, *[1dc (regular) into first st, fpdc into next st]* - repeat from * to * total 19x, finish with 1 dc (regular) around the last st, join (total ch3 + 39 sts)

MC Yarn
Rnd 8         ch3, *[fpdc into first dc from prev row, 1 dc (regular) into next st]* - repeat from * to * total 19x, finish with fpdc around the last st, join (total ch3 + 37 sts)

CC Yarn
Rnd 9          ch3, *[1dc (regular) into first st, fpdc into next st]* - repeat from * to * total 19x, finish with 1 dc (regular) around the last st, join (total ch3 + 37 sts)

MC Yarn
Rnd 10          ch1, 1 sc through the back loop into each of next 39 sts, join

CC Yarn
Rnd 11          ch1, 1 sc through the back loop into each of next 39 sts, join

MC Yarn
Rnd 12          ch1, 1 sc through the back loop into each of next 39 sts, join


HEART

CC Yarn
Magic circle, crochet sl st around it, ch1, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, ch1, 1 tr, ch1, 1 dc, 2 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, sl st, fasten off leaving about 5" long end/tail.

Pull on the end/tail from magic circle to tighten your (circular) opening. Make a knot with both ends. Form a heart and sew it to the hat.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Pumpkin Hat - Free Knit Pattern

Pumpkin Hat worn by American Girl Doll

There are many pumpkin crochet and knit patterns for hats, but I wanted to think of my own version. I wanted my pumpkin hat to look like semi-irregular pumpkin. Just like it grows in the nature. I achieved it with knitting regular beanie hat and crocheting ridges into it - in a perfectly "imperfect" way. First I made my prototype, and then I videotaped knitting my second version (see link below). Since it was a prototype I made it for an 18" doll, such as American Girl Doll. Although the hat is slightly bigger on my doll it could be worn by a tiny newborn also.

Now, I am working on a quick video version for a small child. So stay tuned.

If you want to knit this hat you need to know hot to: cast on, knit stitch, purl stitch, knit 2 together, knit back front = increase (kbf), bind off, and crochet a chain.

VIDEO:
If you would like to knit along with my VIDEO and you are a RIGHTIE - then CLICK HERE.
LEFTIES, please CLICK HERE. Otherwise, see my free pattern below.

Pumpkin Hat worn by "newborn" (doll)

Materials:

• Yarn - approx. 70 yds of worsted #4; I used Red Heart, Super Saver, acrylic yarn, orange color;
  about 20 (?) yards of worsted #4; I used leftover acrylic yarn, black color; few yards of worsted #4; I used leftover acrylic yarn, green color
  Note: All my yarns were same thickness 
• Long Knitting Needles - size #10 (6 mm)
• Double Pointed needles - size #10 (6 mm)
• Optional - Circular needles - size #10 (6 mm)
• Hook/Yarn Needle for weaving in the ends

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
DPN - double pointed needles
kbf - increase by knitting first into back of the stitch then immediately into the front of the same stitch
k2tog - knit two stitches together
BO - bind off


Size:
Height - 7"
Width - 18"


Gauge:
2" x 2" = 8 sts x 11 rows


Step-by-Step:

CO 42 sts (use long knitting needles, or circular needles)

Black color yarn

Row 1              *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to *; then move stitches on 3 DPNs (14 sts each DPN), do                            not twist the knit while you are connecting it into a circle, and start knitting in the                                round (Note: If you started on circular needles, no need to transfer stitches)
Rnd 2-6            *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to *
Rnd 7               *[K2, kbf]* - repeat from * to * (total 56 sts)

Orange color yarn

Rnd 8-27            K56
Rnd 28               *[K2, k2tog]* - repeat from * to * (total 42 sts)
Rnd 29-30          K42
Rnd 31               *[K1, k2tog]* - repeat from * to * (total 28 sts)

Green color yarn

Rnd 32-33          K28
Rnd 34               *[k2tog]* - repeat from * to * (total 14 sts)
Rnd 35               *[k2tog]* - repeat from * to * (total 7 sts)
Rnd 36-41          K7; then BO by pulling your last stitch through all remaining stitches

Finishing:

Using black color yarn, crochet five chains (evenly separated around the perimeter) in a straight line starting at the black edge (your ribbing) toward the green stem (top of your hat) stopping at the green edge. Make one chain stitch every 3-4 rows so you create gathered (bunched up) effect on your hat, which will give you a pumpkin look. Please see my video how I did it. You could do this effect also with a backstitch using a yarn needle and a yarn.

Other hats and scarfs you may enjoy checking out:


Charcoal Hat (child/youth/adult - unisex)
Knitted Unisex Hat (adult)

Easy Lacy Scarf 

Simple Beanie Hat (adult)

Stealy-White Slouchy Hat (adults)

Three Summer Crocheted Hats For Babies

Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)

Adult Lacy Hat

Lacy Hats

Crocheted Spring Hat (youth/adult)

Spring/Summer Hat (baby)

Snow White Hat (baby)

Crocheted Hat With Raised Design (Youth)

Crown For Anyone Knitted On Straight Needles - FREE Pattern

I had a request for a video for knitted crown on STRAIGHT KNITTING NEEDLES.

When you knit on circular needles you work entire time on the RIGHT SIDE, because you knit around in the circle. When you knit on straight needles you work one row on the RIGHT side and one row on the WRONG side. Therefore, when you work with straight needles, knitting on your wrong side must be handled differently. Yet, it has to match as much as possible the right side. So I sat down and tried to figure it out and below is my closest outcome.

If you want to knit this crown, you need to know how to cast on and bind off. You need to know how to do knit & purl stitches, and you need to know how to do a yarn over and how to slip stitches and pass them over.

CLICK HERE for a video for RIGHTIES

CLICK HERE for a video for LEFTIES

If you would rather knit it on circular needles visit my other post HERE, or you can watch my video HERE.

Crocheters can make their crowns too - THIS ONE is a simple crown, and THIS ONE is taller and more elaborate.

Size:
Each repeated section is ~2.25" wide, which can help you decide how many repeats you need to start on. So for example for an American Girl Doll (or Madam Alexander), you need 5 repeats of 18 stitches plus 2 stitches (= one stitch on each end), total 92 sts, which this knitted crown measures 11.25", and is 3" tall at the highest point. Therefore, for a newborn you will need 6 repeats of 18 stitches plus 2 stitches (= one stitch on each end), total 110 sts, which would measure ~13.5" (6x2.25"); a child would need about 7 repeats of 18 stitches plus 2 stitches (= one stitch on each end), total 128 sts, which would measure ~15.75" (7x2.25"); and a youth/adult would need at least 8 repeats of 18 stitches plus 2 stitches (= one stitch on each end), total 146 sts, which would measure ~18+" (8x2.25")

Materials (if you shop via affiliated links below you could help fund my future projects, TXS):
1/2 skein of yarn - worsted weight (medium or #4) - You could use THIS COTTON YARN (for the soft, yet firmer look of the crown)
LONG KNITTING NEEDLES size #7 (4.5 mm)
yarn needle or hook for finishing up your project

Abbreviations:

K - knit
P - purl
s2k - slip two stitches knit-wise (one at a time) from your right needle to your left needle
s2p - slip two stitches purl-wise (one at a time) from your right needle to your left needle
p2sso - pass two slipped stitches off your right needle over your knitted stitch (decrease by 2 stitches)
pm - place marker onto your right needle
sm - slip marker from left needle onto your right needle
YO - yarn over
BO - bind off

Step-by-step Instructions:

Work on multiples of 18 sts + 2 sts  (one stitch on each end).

Foundation Row -  CO your stitches - I cast on 92 sts = 5 repeats total.

Row 1 - K1, *[K8, s2k, K1, p2sso, K7, pm]* - repeat from * to * four more times, K1 (total 5 points)
Row 2 - K1, *[K6, s2p, P1, p2sso, K7, sm]* - repeat from * to * four more times, K1
Row 3 - K1, *[K6, s2k, K1, p2sso, K5, sm]* - repeat from * to * four more times, K1
Row 4 - K1, *[K4, s2p, P1, p2sso, K5, sm]* - repeat from * to * four more times, K1

In the following rows, your number of stitches will be the same

Row 5 - K1, *[K1, YO, K3, s2k, K1, p2sso, K3, YO, sm] - repeat from * to * six more times, K1
Row 6 - P all sts
Row 7 - K1, *[K2, YO, K2, s2k, K1, p2sso, K2, YO, K1, sm] - repeat from * to * six more times, K1
Row 8 - P all sts

Row 9 - K1, *[K3, YO, K1, s2k, K1, p2sso, K1, YO, K2, sm] - repeat from * to * six more times, K1
Row 10 - P all sts

Row 11 - K1, *[K4, YO, s2k, K1, p2sso, YO, K3, sm] - repeat from * to * six more times, K1
Row 12-17 - K all sts
Row 18 - BO (loosely) all sts

Note: for Rows 12 through 18 you can remove all markers.

Sew or crochet the sides together and weave in your ends.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Knitted Vest For American Girl Doll - Free Patern

This vest is a simple rectangle with "holes" for arms, adorn with very colorful buttons. I made one vest similar to this one for a Barbie doll and since I love its simplicity and the outcome, I decided to make one vest from my left over yarn for American Girl doll as well.

So, if your passion is knitting, make yourself a coffee or tee, take needles and some left-over yarn, sit down into a comfy chair and in one or two hours you may have a really nice gift for someone that owns AGD.

Material:
yarn medium #4 thickness (leftover - I used about 1/2 skein)
knitting needles #9
5 buttons
needle
crochet hook #D

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
st(s) - stitches
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
YO - yarn over
K2tog - knit two together
BO - bind off

Gauge:
2" x 2'" = 12 rows x 8 sts

Step-by-Step Directions

Row 1       CO 28 sts
Row 2-5    K28

Row 6       (RS) K13, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, K2tog, K3 (Note: in this row the three YOs will be your button holes)

Row 7       K3, P22, K3
Row 8       K28
Row 9       K3, P22, K3
Row 10     K28
Row 11     K3, P22, K3
Row 12     K28
Row 13     K3, P22, K3
Row 14     K28
Row 15     K3, P22, K3
Row 16     K28
Row 17     K3, P22, K3
Row 18     K28
Row 19     K3, P22, K3
Row 20     K28
Row 21     K3, P22, K3
Row 22     K6, (Note: you will work on next several stitches like you would be making one row button hole - which will be your arm opening) move yarn to the front of the knit, slip next (7th) st  from left needle onto right needle purl-wise and move yarn to the back, then slip 8th st from left needle onto right needle and pass your 7th stitch from right needle over 8th stitch you just slipped from left needle; then slip 9th st from left needle onto right needle and pass over your 8th st; do this 6 more times (with 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th sts); place the last st you worked on back on your left needle (you should have 14 st in total) and turn your knit around to work on WS; you need to bring the yarn to the back and then cable CO 9 sts, turn your knit around onto RS, move the yarn into the back, and slip the first stitch from left needle onto right needle, and at last pass the "9th cable CO st" over the slipped stitch and finish knitting K13 sts (you should have 28 sts on your needle)

Rows 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51
K3, P22, K3

Rows 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50,
K28

Row 52      same as Row 22

Row 53      K3, P22, K3
Row 54      K28
Row 55      K3, P22, K3
Row 56      K28
Row 57      K3, P22, K3
Row 58      K28
Row 59      K3, P22, K3
Row 60      K28
Row 61      K3, P22, K3
Row 62      K28
Row 63      K3, P22, K3
Row 64      K28
Row 65      K3, P22, K3
Row 66      K28

Row 67-71 K28
Row 72      BO

Knitted Barbie Doll Vest - Free Pattern

Often, I am working on several projects at the same time (I get idea in my head and I have to start it immediately, sigh.....), and this vest was one of my postponed projects. I wanted to finish my Barbie doll two-piece outfit for about a week now. But it didn't happen until today.
In May I posted a free pattern for Barbie doll skirt here. The vest in this post goes with that skirt and is finally finished.

It is easy to do. It is a very straight forward knit. You'll have it done in no time. May your little sunshine enjoy playing with her doll.

Material:
leftover sock yarn (#1 or #2 thickness)
knitting needles (or 2 double pointed needles) #4
3 buttons
needle
crochet hook #D

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
st(s) - stitches
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
YO - yarn over
K2tog - knit two together
BO - bind off

Step-by-Step Directions

Row 1         CO 20 sts
Row 2-17    K20
Row 18       (RS) K7, (Note: you will work on next several stitches like you would be making one row button hole - which will be your arm opening) move yarn to the front of the knit, slip next (8th) st  from left needle onto right needle purl-wise and move yarn to the back, then slip 9th st from left needle onto right needle and pass your 8th stitch from right needle over 9th stitch you just slipped from left needle; then slip 10th st from left needle onto right needle and pass over your 9th st; do this 2 more times (with 11th and 12th sts); place the last st you worked on back on your left needle and turn your knit around to work on WS; you need to bring the yarn to the back and then cable CO 5 sts, turn your knit around onto RS, move the yarn into the back, and slip the first stitch from left needle onto right needle, and at last pass the "5th cable CO st" over the slipped stitch and finish knitting K8 sts (you should have 20 sts on your needle)
Row 19-43    K20
Row 44          same as Row 18
Row 45-55     K20
Row 56          K6, YO, K2tog, K2, YO, K2tog, K2, YO, K2tog, K4 (Note: in this row the three YOs will be your button holes)
Row 57-59     K20
Row 60          BO - do not cut off the yarn - use reverse single crochet stitch to crochet around the perimeter of the knit with your hook. Weave all the ends in and sew on small buttons.

Below are images of few steps while I was knitting the vest:

Arm opening - First I slipped and passed over 4 stitches

Here I moved the last passed over stitch onto the left needle

Here I turned my knit so it would face me with wrong side

Here I placed yarn to the back of my knit

Here I cable casted on 5 stitches

Finishing - I did reversed single crochet stitches to make edge more exciting

Happy knitting and crocheting. Enjoy.

Knitted Hat For American Girl Doll - Cross Stitch Pattern

About two years ago I wrote a post on cross stitch pattern knitted with two needles versus on double pointed needles in round (post is HERE). These couple of days I worked on a hat pattern and a video tutorial for American Girl Doll using this cross stitch. I hope THIS VIDEO will be a great supplement to your project if you would like to knit such a hat.

Also:

• I think that if you use a very soft yarn/wool this hat could be knitted for preemie baby.
• For newborn baby I would probably start on 61 stitches.  
• For each 2" in width you need 10 extra stitches. For each 1" in height you need to repeat rounds 7 & 8 three more times (= 6 rounds)

Material:

• Yarn of medium thickness #4 - preferably self-striping for more dimensional look
• long needles size #8
• double pointed needles (or circular) #9
• place markers
• hook
• scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on
Rnd - round (row)

st(s) - stitch(es)

K - knit

P - purl
KTBL - knit through the back loop
K2tog - knit 2 together

pm - place marker

Size:
This hat's circumference is 10" and height is 4"

Gauge:
cross stitch pattern
2" x 2" = 10 sts x 11 rows (approximate)

Step-by-Step Directions:

Row 1          CO 52 sts
Row 2          *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * entire row, then join into a circle without twisting
Rnd 3-6       *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * 'til you have 2 last sts, which you will K2tog (total 51 sts)
Rnd 7          pm, *[KTBL second st - do not remove from needle, then K first st, then remove both sts]* - repeat from * to * until you have one st left, which you will move from your right needle onto your left needle and this becomes your new row (Note: from now on each row will shift by one stitch)
Rnd 8          *[K second st of the new Rnd - do not remove from your needle, then KTBL first st, and only then slip off the needle both knitted stitches]* - repeat from * to * until you have one st left, which you will move from your right needle onto your left needle and this becomes your new row

Repeat (alternate)  Rnd 7 (= to rounds 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, and 21) and Rnd 8 (= to rounds 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, and 20)  six more times, then knit one more time Rnd 7 (total 15 rounds of cross stitch pattern)

Rnd 22-24      (Note: each time you have extra last stitch left on the right needle move it onto left needle) *[K2tog]* - repeat from * to * through out all three rounds until you have 7 sts left. BO by pulling last knitted st through all 6 remaining sts and fasten off with one last slip stitch.

Weave in all ends.

Enjoy, share, comment, be happy....

Knitted Simple Barbie Doll Skirt

I had a left over sock yarn from my arm warmers project so I decided to dress up my daughter's Barbie doll. My yarn is self striping so I didn't have to knit anything elaborate. It is so easy, that if you know how to knit on DPN you will have it done in no time. I still have some of the yarn and I am working on the top to go with the skirt.

Material:
leftover sock yarn (#1 or #2 thickness)
double pointed needles #3
hook #D

Abbreviations:
DPN - double pointed needles
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
K2tog - knit two stitches together
BO - bind off
ch - chain


Step-by-Step Directions

Row 1         CO 40 sts
Row 2         K40, distribute among DPN evenly, join into the circle
Rnd 3          P40
Rnd 4          K40
Rnd 5          P40
Rnd 6          K40
Rnd 7          P40
Rnd 8-19     K40

Rnd 20        *[K2tog]* - repeat from * to *

Rnd 21         K20

Rnd 22-31   *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to *

Rnd 32        with a hook *[BO, ch1]* - repeat from * to *, then make one last sl. st., weave both tails into the knitted skirt.

Note: While binding off I made one extra chain between the stitches, because the dolls hips are wide but the waist is very narrow. This way we can slide the skirt onto the doll without any problems.