TANGERINE TOP

ENJOY MY LATEST PROJECT - AN AIRY TOP (BLOUSE OR SWEATER) KNITTED FROM A LACY FUZZY YARN WITH LARGER-SIZED KNITTING NEEDLES, WITH 3D SLEEVES.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

Material:

• Yarn - DIABLO; Colors: 4 balls of Yellow Ochre (#18); Lace (#1); 30% Mohair, 30% Nylon, 40% Acrylic; 0.9 oz/25g; 246 yds/225 m; 
• Knitting needles #9 (5.5 mm)
• Markers
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

st/sts - stitch/stitches
K2tog - knit two stitches together (decrease)
SSK - slip 2 stitches (one at a time), place them back on the needle and knit them through the back loop (decrease)

CO extra st - cast on an extra stitch between short rows to close the hole

PM - place marker

K1B - increase by knitting 1 stitch below the next stitch (then knit next st)

YO - yarn over

BO - bind off

Gauge (stockinette st):

4" x 4" = 16 sts x 22 rows

Size:

Oversized small, or regular medium women's size

Measurements (measured flat): 

Step-by-Step Directions:

This blouse is knitted from bottom to top. 

BODY PART

CO 140 sts. Knit in the round.

Row 1-12             *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end of row (70x)

Row 13-80            K140

Divide 140 stitches into 2 halves - 70 sts for your back, and 70 sts for the front. Knit back and forth. Work your back first, then the front. 

BACK PART OF THE BODY

Row 81               K68

Row 82               P66, put the first 2 sts and last 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, they will be part of the sleeves
Row 83               K66

Row 84               P66

Repeat Rows 83 & 84 thirteen more times, up to Row 110.

Row 111              BO 7 sts, K to end

Row 112              BO 7 sts, P to end

Repeat Rows 111 & 112 two more times, up to Row 116.

Row 117              K24
Row 118              P24

FRONT PART OF THE BODY

Row 81               put the first 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, start the new ball, and K66; put the last 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, they will be part of the sleeves

Row 82               P66
Row 83               K66

Row 84               P66

Repeat Rows 83 & 84 nine more times, up to Row 102.

We will make a "U" shaped neck area, and then BO for the shoulders. Start on the first side of the front on the RIGHT (KNIT) side.

FIRST HALF OF THE UPPER FRONT

Row 103              K28, do not work with the last 38 sts on the needle (you may put them on the stitch holder)

Row 104              P28

Row 105              K25, three stitches left on the needle

Row 106              P25

Row 107              K23, three + two stitches left on the needle

Row 108              P23

Row 109              K21, three + two + two stitches left on the needle

Row 110              P21

Row 111              K21

Row 112              P21

Row 113              BO 7 sts, K13

Row 114              P14

Row 115              BO 7 sts, K6

Row 116              P7

Row 117              BO 7 sts, leave a long tail for sewing the shoulder area together

SECOND HALF OF THE UPPER FRONT

Start on the second side of the front on the RIGHT (KNIT) side; from the middle.

Row 103              Leave the first 10 sts on the stitch holder, then K28 to end

Row 104              P25, three stitches left on the needle

Row 105              K25

Row 106              P23, three + two stitches left on the needle (total 5 sts)

Row 107              K23

Row 108              P21, three + two + two stitches left on the needle  (total 7 sts)

Row 109              K21

Row 110              P21

Row 111              K21

Row 112              BO 7 sts, P13

Row 113              K14

Row 114              BO 7 sts, P6

Row 115              K 7

Row 116              BO 7 sts, do not fasten off the yarn, use it for knitting the edge

Sew the front and back shoulder areas together (on both sides). Knit a neckband/edge in the round as such:

Row 1                  Starting at your back part and on the RIGHT side of the knit, K24; CO 8 sts along straight side; K2; CO extra st; K2; CO extra st; K3; CO extra st; K10; CO extra st; K3;  CO extra st; K2;  CO extra st; K2; CO 8 sts along straight side; (total 70 sts = 24+8+2+1+2+1+3+1+10+1+3+1+2+1+2+8)
Row 2-6               *[K1, P1]* - to end (35x)
Row 7                   BO

SLEEVES - make two

Start in the underarm area. 

Row 1                    CO 24 stitches along the front (or back) arm area, then CO 24 stitches along the back (or front) area, and K4 (stitchers that are on your stitch holder) - make sure there are no holes between the CO stitches and 4 underarm stitches, PM

Row 2                    K2tog, K44, SSK, K4 (50 sts total)

Row 3-10               *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Row 11                   *[K1; then increase by K1B & K1 regularly - 5x; K1, P3]* - 5x (total 75 sts)

Row 12-19             *[K12, P3]* - 5x (total 75 sts)
Row 20                  *[K1; then decrease by K2tog - 5x; K1, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)
Row 21-30             *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Repeat Rows 11-30 three more times (90 rows more)

Finish with 10 more rows (or as many as you need)

Row 121-130        *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Row 131                BO all sts

When you knit both sleeves, weave in all the ends. 

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (sweater/blouse/top) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

BEEHIVE SWEATER

I knew this project would take a long time to finish when I started it at the end of Spring. Not only because knitting cables is more time-consuming than just simple knitting, but I tend to start other projects as well. So, if you want to knit this "Beehive Sweater," give yourself ample time to finish it on time. If you want to knit the sweater, you need to know how to cast on, how to knit "knit" and "purl" stitches, C4F and C4B stitches, and how to bind off. 

If you are attempting to knit cables for the first time, do not despair. I have several videos grouped into a playlist for this project. Yes, my videos can be lengthy at times. But if you feel you understand what I am demonstrating, skip those parts. And if you don't understand, what is happening, play the video again. I hope you will find these videos helpful.

I knitted this sweater in a rectangle way.  (See the diagram below). Sleeves can be knitted as rectangles or tapered. You decide if you want them wide, or more narrow around the wrist area.

I also would like to talk about how you can size this sweater. It seems that 12 rows and 16 stitches both measure three inches (3"). So, from this knowledge, draw a plan of how wide and long your sweater should be. Don't forget to consider that if you wash your finished sweater, it may stretch - my small size turned into nearly a medium size. However, my daughter loves this oversized and cozy gift. The sleeves are longer than I anticipated. I suggested to my daughter that I would shorten them - it would be no problem since they are knitted from the shoulder down toward the wrist. However, she refused me to fix "the problem." So with this knowledge, you can decide how many repeat cables in rows and stitches you prefer. Also, consider having the sweater dry cleaned.

Now, let me talk a little about the head opening. In the video, I am demonstrating the binding off 44 stitches. You can also see that I had to rip it because the head opening was too big (it would, most likely, work better for a larger person). Instead, the second time around, I bound off 36 stitches. (See the image above of how it looks after I washed the sweater). I feel it would be even better if I bound off 28 stitches, but my daughter loves it as it is. The binding off 28 stitches, few shoulder rows, and casting on 28 stitches would make the head opening hug the neck area, yet it would have enough space to pull the sweater over the head. So again, using this information, you can tailor your project to any person's body and what the person prefers.

I doubled the strands because I didn't have any chunky yarn at hand. However, I had nearly 2 kilos of Knit Picks DK Merino. You may replace it with chunky yarn if you wish. Perhaps you would love to use light and fluffy (chunky) yarn instead of merino. Then all you have to do is a swatch to make sure you will size your work correctly. 

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS

"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS

STAY TUNED for the "Half-Balls" pattern (you can see them on the model in the design above). The remaining videos will be added as I finish editing them. ENJOY and share your work 😉🙂🌸

Size: Small (oversized), or Medium (more fitting)

Material:

• Yarn - 16 skeins of KNIT PICKS, Bare - DOUBLED; Colors: Natural; DK (#3); 100% Merino; 246 yds/100g; (12 skeins for a sweater, and 4 skeins for 1/2 balls)
• Knitting needles (straights, circulars, DPNs) #11 (8 mm)
• Markers
  
• Hook 6 mm
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

st, sts - stitch, stitches 
M - marker

C4F - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in front of your knitting

C4B - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in the back of your knitting

CCO - cable cast-on

BO - bind off

Cable Stitch Pattern Repeat

Gauge (cable):

3"x 3" = 16 sts x 12 rows

Step-by-Step Directions:

FRONT PART

CO 108 sts

Row 1            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 2            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn

Repeat Row 1 & 2 two more times (Row 3-6)

Note: From now on use knit sts only for the cables (knit sts on the right side, purl sts on the wrong side)

Row 7            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #1)
Row 8            P108
Row 9            K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11          K108
Row 12          P108

Row 13          K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #2)
Row 14          P108
Row 15          K108
Row 16          P108
Row 17          K108
Row 18          P108

Repeat Rows 7-18 as many times as needed. I repeated these twelve rows 7x in total before starting my shoulder area. If you would like your sweater longer repeat Rows 7-18  one or more extra times.

Then repeat rows 7-13 again as such:

Row 7            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 8            P108
Row 9            K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11          K108
Row 12          P108

Row 13          K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2

Then continue your front as such (NECK AREA RIBBING):

Row 14          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 15          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn
Row 16          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 17          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn
Row 18          K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x,  P4, K36, turn
Row 19          P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x,  K4, P36, turn

Work on the head opening = BO stitches in the middle as such:

Row 1            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, next C4F - BUT knit only the 2 back (purl) sts !! and BO 2 knit sts; then BO 32 sts, THEN start your C4B - but BO 2 knit sts, then BO 1 purl st and knit 1 back (purl) sts (these two sts will be part of your shoulder, 36 sts);  finish the row with *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, and K2, turn 

At this point, you will turn your work around and work on the first shoulder part. 

SHOULDER #1

Row 2            P36
Row 3            K36
Row 4            P36
Row 5            K36
Row 6            P36
Row 7            K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8            P36
Row 9            K36

DO NOT FASTEN OFF (don't cut off your yarn). 

With a different skein work on the second shoulder.

SHOULDER #2

Row 2            start working on the wrong side - attach a different skein; P36
Row 3            K36
Row 4            P36
Row 5            K36
Row 6            P36
Row 7            K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8            P36
Row 9            K36

BACK PART

Continue working on your back part starting with the yarn on Shoulder #1:

Row 10            P36, CCO 36 sts, P36 sts from Shoulder #2  (Note: put a marker in this row on each side - this will be the middle mark for your future sleeves.)
Row 11            K108
Row 12            P108

Starting with Row 13 - repeat Cable Rows 7-18 (= "12-Row Repeat") from FRONT PART eight times (8x) in total. 
(If you knitted your front longer than the written pattern for the front, knit as many EXTRA "row repeats" as you did for the front part.)

After you knit your last "12-Row Repeat" finish your BACK PART with the last cable row and then 4/4 ribbing as such:

Row 1            K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 2            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 3            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn
Row 4            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 5            *[P4, K4]* - 13x,  P4, turn
Row 6            *[K4, P4]* - 13x,  K4, turn
Row 7            BO all sts, fasten off

SLEEVES - make 2 (one on each side of the sweater)

There are 4 ways to make your sleeves.

1. Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them in the round (use either DPNs or circulars)
2. Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them back and forth
3. Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a knitting needle and knit them back and forth
4. Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a circular needle (or DPN) and knit them in the round

If you choose to work back and forth (as in #2 & #3 ways), you will follow all odd rows (1, 3, 5.... etc) as written below. All your even rows (2, 4, 6... etc.) will be worked on the wrong side, which means you will purl every even row, except the 4/4 ribbing.

Cast on 78 stitches along the side of your front/back part. The middle of the sleeve width should correspond with the row where you casted-on for the back part and where you put your marker. You should CO 39 sts from the front and 39 sts from the back into EVERY row. (The tightness of the cable pattern makes the cast on nicely even and flat. There is no need to skip or add stitches. The seam should not be warped or pulling.) 

This sleeve pattern is for knitting in the round. Sleeves come out long. If you want them shorter you may adjust your rows.

After you CO your 78 sts, start knitting in the round (on DPNs or Circular needles) as such:

Rnd 1-3             K78

Rnd 4                   K3, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 5-9                K78
Rnd 10                 K3, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 11-14            K78
Rnd 15                 (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K72, SSK, K1 (76 sts)

Rnd 16                 K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 17-21            K76
Rnd 22                 K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 23-26            K76
Rnd 27                 (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K70, SSK, K1 (74 sts)

Rnd 28                  K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 29-33             K74
Rnd 34                  K1, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 35-39             K74
Rnd 40                  K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 41-44             K74
Rnd 45                   (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K68, SSK, K1(72 sts)

Rnd 46                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 47-51              K72

Rnd 52                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 53-57               K72
Rnd 58                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 59-63              K72

Rnd 64                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 65-69              K72
Rnd 70                   *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 71-75              K72

Rnd 76                   *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 77-83              *[K2, P4, K2]* - 9x

Rnd 84                    BO

Finishing:

Sew/crochet sides (= back to front) together, and weave in all the ends. If you desire, you could crochet half-balls (video coming soon), or buy acrylic pom-poms, and sew/tie them into the "dimples" between the cables.

CROCHETED HALF BALLS

Double the yarn.

To start: leave about 1 foot long tail, then wrap yarn around your index and middle finger (make magic loop) and croche into the loop as such: ch2, then make 7 (or eight) unfinished dc (only half way through) - you shoud have 8 (or nine) loops on your hook; then pull yarn through all 8 (9) loops, and make last chain (or rather knot). Pull on the yarn tight. Leaving second tail about 1 foot.

To finish - either color the "half balls" while still flat, OR pull on the first tail (the magic loop tail) to form the half ball and color then. 

As soon as I have this video edited you will be able to see it in the playlist above.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

AZURE - American Girl Doll Dress

When knitting was not as popular as today, I did a few "American Girl Doll Fashion Shows" for local libraries. I knitted many outfits for my four AGDs and one Madam Alexander (one day I will show you those outfits in the video), then I dressed them up, took other pieces of their wardrobe to a library, and displayed them where children and adults could see the "knitted fashions." 

Today, I would love to share with you another dress that I designed, and this time I also videotaped the making of the dress. If you knit this dress I hope you will make a little girl very happy. 

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

VIDEOS FOR RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS:

1. VERY DETAILED VIDEO TUTORIAL - PART 1/2 (dress)
2. VERY DETAILED VIDEO TUTORIAL - PART 2/2 (lacy pattern)

VIDEOS FOR LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS:

1. VERY DETAILED VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR LEFTIES PART 1/2 (dress)
2. VERY DETAILED VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR LEFTIES PART 2/2 (lacy pattern)

If you would rather like to follow the written pattern then scroll down. Happy knitting.

Material:

• Yarn - LANA GROSSA, Gomitolo Puno; Color: 013; Light (3); 70% Cotton, 19% Merino Wool, 11% Alpaca; 5.3 oz/150g; 623 yd/570 m; I used 40 g/1.42 oz of yarn
• Knitting needles #4 (3.5 mm)
• Markers
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors
• Button

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

M - marker
K - knit
P - purl

YO - yarn over

K3tog - knit 3 stitches together

S3K - slip each stitch knitwise three times, place them back on the needle and knit through the back loop

CDD - center double decrease - slip two stitches as if to knit them together, knit next stitch, then pass two slipped stitches over the knitted one
P-row# - pattern row number

Gauge:

4" x 4" = 22 sts x 30 rows

Measurements:

Step-by-Step Directions:

This dress is knitted top-down. First, it is knitted back and forth, then in the round.

CO 58 sts

Row 1-5        *[K1, P1]* - 29x, turn
Row 6            *[K1, P1]* - 2x, K50, *[K1, P1]* - 2x, turn
Row 7            *[K1, P1]* - 2x, P50, *[K1, P1]* - 2x, turn

Row 8            *[K1, P1]* - 2x, M, K8, m1, K1, M, K1, m1, K3, m1, K1, M, K1, m1, K20, m1, K1, M, K1, m1, K3, m1, K1, M, K1, m1, K8, M *[K1, P1]* - 2x, turn

Row 9            *[K1, P1]* - 2x, P58, *[K1, P1]* - 2x, turn

Repeat Rows 8 & 9 eleven more times (total 12x, including Rows 8 & 9) while adding 8 new stitches in every EVEN row (Rows 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30), thus purling 8 more stitches in every ODD row. You should add 96 sts in total.

CONNECT BACKS TO FRONT:

Before you start connecting fronts and back together put sleeve stitches on holders (I use 2 thick strings).

First, work on overlapping and connecting both back parts together as such:

Overlap both edges (the buttonhole side on the top!) in such a way that you will K2tog 1st buttonhole side stitch with 4th stitch of the other edge (this will be beginning of your new round), 2nd buttonhole side stitch with 3rd stitch of the other edge, 3rd buttonhole side stitch with 2nd stitch of the other edge, 4th buttonhole side stitch with 1st stitch of the other edge (see the video if you need help). You can remove all the markers as you knit. Also, remember you knitted 2 sts together 4x, thus you will have 46 sts for the back. (If needed you can watch the video - Part 1).

Now you are ready to connect fronts and back (knit in the round):

Rnd 1            K21, CO 1 st,  K46, CO 1 st, K21 (total 94 sts = 4+21+1+46+1+21)
Rnd 2-3         K94
Rnd 4            P94
Rnd 5            Make 8 holes for the ribbon: K6, K2tog, YO, *[K10, K2tog, YO]* - 3x; K8, K2tog, YO; *[K10, K2tog, YO]* - 3x; K4 
Rnd 6            K94
Rnd 7            P94

Rnd 8-?         K94 

Repeat Rnd 8 as many times as needed until you reach 4", depending on if you want to knit a lacy pattern at the bottom of the dress. If you don't want to knit a lacy pattern then knit another inch and then finish with 5-6 rows of either the ribbing or the garter stitch to prevent curling of the edge. 

You could also make the dress longer by knitting more rounds before the pattern OR keep repeating the lacy pattern few more times.

NOTE:

Before you will start with the lacy pattern, you need to add 5 extra sts in your last round - distribute these stitchers evenly among 94 sts (make one stitch about every 18-19 sts). You need to have 99 sts total. You will work with 11 stitch repeats - that means for the lacy pattern you will do 9 REPEATS.

LACY PATTERN:

Rnd 1            K2tog-2x; *[YO, K1]* - 3x; YO; SSK - 2x (Repeat 9x)

Rnd 2-3         K11 (Repeat 9x)

• Repeat Rnd 1-3 three more times (Rnd 4-12);
• Then repeat Rnd 1 and 2 (Rnd 13 & 14), before you will finish the dress with the garter stitch edging (Rnd 15-19)

Rnd 15          P11 (Repeat 9x)
Rnd 16          K11 (Repeat 9x)

Rnd 17          P11 (Repeat 9x)
Rnd 18          K11 (Repeat 9x)

In Rnd 19 BO by using purl stitches.

SLEEVES

Note: There are 29 sts for each sleeve. Since we CO one stitch between front and back (each side) we need to CO in the underarm area in such a way that we will not have any holes. If you observe you can fit in five (5) extra stitches. That will bring the total stitches for the sleeve to 34 sts. (If needed you can watch the video - Part 1).

Knit the sleeves in the round.

Rnd 1            Starting in the middle of the underarm area CO 3 sts, K29, then finish CO 2 more sts
Rnd 2-7         *[K1, P1]* - 17x
Rnd 8            BO all the stitches, weave in the ends.

 
Note: If you wish to knit long sleeves then instead of ribbing keep knitting in the round and decreasing 1 sts at the beginning of the row, and 1 stitch at the end every few rows (approx. every 6 rows) - about four times, then finish the sleeve with 5-6 rows of ribbing.

Weave in all remaining ends/tails. Block. Dress up the American Girl Doll or give it as a gift.

****************************

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any size of the scarf) made by you, but you have to give me a credit.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Crocheted Scarf With Heart 💛 Shaped Ends

Occasionally I get requests to make a specific video. I usually prefer projects that don't take weeks to finish. After all, I am just a "one-man" show. So when it is something that hits my string, I do grant the requested wish. I sit down and start creating. I love the process of thinking up the things, how to make them work. Occasionally, how to make someone else's work easier as well.

This time a nice crocheter asked: "Please, can you make a crochet version of your Mom's Knitted Scarf?" 

So first, I sat down and did some thinking. Then I did a couple of mini prototypes. I thought: "I should make a video tutorial on how to make a scarf for an American Girl Doll. And include some pointers on how to make it bigger. If you want to make it bigger, you need to adjust the rows and stitches> This way you will crochet a bigger/longer scarf. 

Scroll down to the bottom of this page to read my ideas/pointers on how to make it happen.

Should you want to crochet along with my video click on the appropriate link below.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

RIGHT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.

LEFT-HANDED crocheters CLICK HERE for the AGD SCARF video.

OTHER SCARF VIDEOS FOR RIGHTIES CLICK HERE

OTHER SCARF VIDEOS FOR LEFTIES CLICK HERE

Size:
Height - 11", Bottom Width - 5.5"; Top Width - 2.25"
Sweater - build your size with as many squares as needed

Material:
Yarn - Lion Brand Yarns, Mandala; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; in the ball: 590 yards/540m; 5.3 oz/150g - I used several yards of a leftover
Hook - 3.75mm
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
2dctog - decrease by crocheting two double crochet stitches together 
ch1sp - chain one space

st, sts - stitch, stitches

fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet

END HEART/LEAF PIECES
Make 2

Note - at each beginning of the row, ch4 represents ch3=1dc and ch1=ch1sp. Please note there are only ch1 spaces at the beginning of the row and at the end of the row!

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 10 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 8                    ch3, *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn

These 14 sts will separate into two parts - Part A (fpdc sts) and Part B (bpdc sts) - as such:

Part A

Turn as if to work on the wrong side, you will work with 1/2 the stitches +1 (total 8 sts), your 6 bpdc stitches will become now 6 fpdc sts, plus 2 end sts.

Row 9                    ch3, work 1 fpdc in each fpdc (which is actually bpdc before you turned your work around) from prev row ONLY (ignore bpdc sts, which were actually fpdc sts before you turned) - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off

Part B

In Part B you'll work on your right side. Start with a new string (yarn), you will crochet into fpdc stitches only and finish the last dc stitch into your dc stitch from Row 8 (see Row 9)

Row 9                    ch3 (starting in the 3rd ch); then work 1 fpdc in each fpdc that is facing you (bpdc in the prev row) - 6x; 1 dc in the last dc from Row 8, (8 sts total), turn
Row 10                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 11                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 12                  ch3, work *[1 bpdc in each bpdc]* - 6x; 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (8 sts total), turn
Row 13                  ch3, work *[1 fpdc in each fpdc]*  - 6x; 1 dc in he 3rd ch, (8 sts total), fasten off

MIDDLE SCARF PART
The middle part - make 1.  (The pattern in row 3 is worked on multiples of 3 sts + 3.)

Foundation - ch10

Row 1                     1 dc into 4th ch from hook, 1 dc into next 7 consecutive chain sts, (8 sts total) turn
Row 2                     ch3; 1 dc in next st, (increase): 2 dc in each of next 4 consecutive sts from prev row; 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn; Note: I increased the width by 4 sts (= by 50%)

Row 3                     ch4; skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts, *[ch1,  skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 consecutive sts]* - 2x  ch1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in the 3rd ch;  (12 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch3; 1 dc in each of next 10 consecutive sts from prev row, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (12 sts total), turn

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until you reach the desired length - I repeated these 2 rows nine more times (total 10x) - up till Row 22

Row 23                  ch3, 1 dc, (decrease): 2dc-tog in next 8 sts - 4x, 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total); Note: I decreased the width by 4 sts (= by 30%)

FINISHING

Sew or crochet two end pieces on each end of the scarf as INVISIBLY as possible (see a video above). Weave in all the ends.

If you want you can add a tassel on each end of the scarf, or just leave it alone (also see a video above). Put the scarf around the doll's neck and pull one end through the opening of the other end.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO MAKE THIS SCARF BIGGER?

First

THREE 9-ROW TRIANGLES

TRIANGLE #1
with 9 rows and 18 sts at the top should end up with 9 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 10 sts (8 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 4.5",  height 4".

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (6 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (8 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (10 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (12 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (14 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (16 sts total), turn
Row 8                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn
Row 9                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 16 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (18 sts total), turn

MIDDLE SCARF PART
You would have to start on 12 chain sts (9 for the base + 3 chain sts in place of dc). Crochet the first row so you have 10 dc sts total (9 dc + ch3 at the beginning).
If you would like to achieve a pattern presented in the video (and in Row 3 of the doll scarf above), you need to increase in the second row in such a way as to have a multiple of 3 sts + 3 extra sts (increase as evenly as possible) - this will be the width of your scarf. Example: (5x3)+3 = 18. Since you are starting with 10 sts, you would need to increase by 8 sts in order to have 18 sts for the pattern.

TRIANGLE #2
with 9 rows and 22 sts at the top should end up with 11 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 12 sts (10 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 5",  height 4".

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch3, 1 dc, ch1, 2 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; 2 dc in ch1, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (8 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (10 sts total), turn
Row 4                     cch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (12 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (14 sts total), turn
Row 6                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 3x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (16 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 4x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (18 sts total), turn
Row 8                     ch3, 1dc, ch1; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 5x; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in each of two last sts, (20 sts total), turn
Row 9                     ch3; 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in ch1sp, then 1 dc in each of 14 consecutive sts, 2 dc in ch1sp, 1 dc in each of two last sts; (22 sts total), turn

TRIANGLE #3
This triangle has also  9 rows but 24 sts however I do not like the look of this triangle. So I will not write a pattern for it 😉

 

13-ROW TRIANGLE

This triangle is crocheted the same way as TRIANGLE #1, except it is 4 rows longer. It has 13 rows, and 26 sts at the top should end up with 13 sts for each side of the opening, which would be worked over 14 sts (12 sts in the middle + 1 shared stitch at each end). Measurements of triangle #1 (#4 weight yarn, hook 4 mm) - width at the top 6.5",  height 5.5".

The Middle Scarf Part would start with 14+2 (16) chain stitches, where the first row would be total 13 dc + ch3. The second row could be increased to 21, 24, 27 or 30 sts, depending how wide you would like the scarf to be.

Consequently the number of decreased sts in the last row would have to be same as the increase in the second row.

WIDER STYLE OF TRIANGLE PATTERN #1:

Should you be interested in a wider version, I played with stitches and here is what I came up with. The last row has 22 sts, which yeilds 11 (+1) sts for the opening parts.

Row 1                     In the magic circle: crochet ch4, 1 dc - tighten the magic circle, turn
Row 2                     ch4; 3 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (7 sts total), turn
Row 3                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; ch1, skip 3 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch; (9 sts total), turn
Row 4                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc; skip 2 sts, in ch1sp make 3dc; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (11 sts total), turn
Row 5                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 3 dc between dc sts, ch1, skip 3 st, 3 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2 dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (15 sts total), turn

Row 6                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts, ch1, skip 3 sts, 3 dc in ch1sp,  ch1, skip 2 sts, 2 dc between sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (17 sts total), turn
Row 7                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts, skip 2 st, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 3 st, ch1, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts; skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (19 sts total), turn

Row 8                     ch4; in ch1sp make 2 dc, *(skip 2 st, 2 dc between dc sts)* - 2x; ch1, skip 3 st, 3 dc in ch1sp, skip 3 st, ch1, 2 dc between the sts, skip 2 sts, 2 dc between the sts, skip 2 st, in ch1sp make 2dc, ch1, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (21 sts total), turn

Row 9                     ch3; in ch1sp make 1 dc, then 1 dc in each of 8 consecutive sts, 2 dc in next st (increase), then 1 dc in each of 8 consecutive sts, in ch1sp make 1 dc, 1 dc in the 3rd ch, (22 sts total)

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any size of the scarf) made by you, but you have to give me a credit.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Knitted Chunky Sweater

I love yarn, and often I want to buy more. I search various yarn websites and marvel at all those beautiful skeins and dream what I could knit or crochet with them. But lately, I have been trying to be strict with myself. Seriously. I need to de-stash my yarn from all the hiding places. What can be quite sad is that by the time I get to knit some of the projects, the yarn is discontinued. Ugh, grrrr. 

I bought this extravagant-looking yarn about five years ago. Four bags. Twenty balls of a greenish and twenty balls of a pinkish color. About two weeks ago, I pulled out the yummy green one with orange and purple speckles. I thought: "This will make a nice warm sweater for my petite daughter." 

Here we are today - let me share a finished written pattern of the top-down sweater for XS/S women. Although the company discontinued this yarn, you may opt for another super bulky one, which yields 8 sts and 11 rows in 4", and you should be fine. Yes, the sweater will look different, but it will be your design knitted with my pattern.

f you are interested in watching my video about this sweater where I am presenting how to start a sleeve, you may click on one of the links below.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES

VIDEO FOR LEFTIES 

Enjoy.

Materials:
16 balls of ARTFUL YARNS, Palace; 48% wool, 45% acrylic, 7% nylon; Color: 366; 50g/1.75 oz; 27 yds/ 24.7 m;
Knitting needles - circular and DPNs, US size #15, 10 mm
Hook 9mm (see the sleeve part in the video)
Yarn needle
Buttons

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
KE - knit edge (= knit 4 sts for edge)
K - knit
K1tbl - knit one stitch through the back loop
sl1wyf - slip one (last) stitch with yarn in front 
P - purl
M1 - increase by making 1 st between the stitches
K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip knitwise, slip knitwise, knit both stitches through the back loop
BO - bind of your stitches

Size:
women XS/S

Measurements:

YOKE

CO 48 sts

Note: place buttonholes every 20, 22, or 24 rows after the first initial buttonhole in the seventh row. Your choice of how close/far together you would like to have them.

Row 1-4              K48
Row 5                 K1tbl, K3; *[M1, K4]* - 10x,  M1; K3, sl1wyf
Row 6                 K1tbl, K3; P51; K3, sl1wyf
Row 7                 K1tbl, K3; *[M1, K5]* - 10x, M1, K1; K2tog, YO (button hole), K1, sl1wyf
Row 8                 K1tbl, K3; P62; K3, sl1wyf
Row 9                 K1tbl, K3; K1, *[M1, K6]* - 10x,  M1, K1; K3, sl1wyf
Row 10               K1tbl, K3; P73; K3, sl1wyf
Row 11               K1tbl, K3; K2, *[M1, K7]* - 10x, M1, K1; K3, sl1wyf
Row 12               K1tbl, K3; P84; K3, sl1wyf
Row 13               K1tbl, K3; K6, *[M1, K8]* - 9x, M1, K6; K3, sl1wyf
Row 14               K1tbl, K3; P94; K3, sl1wyf
Row 15               K1tbl, K3; K94; K3, sl1wyf
Row 16               K1tbl, K3; P94; K3, sl1wyf
Row 17               K1tbl, K3; K6, *[M1, K9]* - 9x, M1, K7; K3, sl1wyf
Row 18               K1tbl, K3; P104; K3, sl1wyf
Row 19               K1tbl, K3; K104; K3, sl1wyf
Row 20               K1tbl, K3; P104; K3, sl1wyf
Row 21               K1tbl, K3; K7, *[M1, K10]* - 9x, M1, K7; K3, sl1wyf
Row 22               K1tbl, K3; P114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 23               K1tbl, K3; K114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 24               K1tbl, K3; P114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 25               K1tbl, K3; K114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 26               K1tbl, K3; P114; K3, sl1wyf
Row 27               K1tbl, K3; K8, *[M1, K11]* - 9x, M1, K7; K3, sl1wyf
Row 28               K1tbl, K3; P124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 29               K1tbl, K3; K124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 30               K1tbl, K3; P124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 31               K1tbl, K3; K124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 32               K1tbl, K3; P124; K3, sl1wyf
Row 33               K1tbl, K3; K19 ( front #1), move 24 sts on holder/string - stitches on your holder will be knitted later (sleeve #1), CO 2 sts, connect the front part to the back part by knitting next 38 sts, move 24 sts on holder/string - stitches on your holder will be knitted later (sleeve #2), CO 2 sts, connect the back part to the front part by knitting next 19 stitches (front #2); K3, sl1wyf

Note: you should have stitches as such:
EDGE: 4 sts;
FRONT: 19 sts; plus 2 extra sts for underarm;
BACK: 38 sts; plus 2 extra sts for underarm; 
FRONT: 19 sts; EDGE: 4 sts;

Also - if your arms' circumference is bigger add more underarm stitches, but remember to change the stitch count below.

BODY - repeat Row 1 & Row 2 many times until you have desired length. I knitted 14 inches (40 rows) measured from the underarm.

Row 1               K1tbl, K3; P80; K3, sl1wyf
Row 2               K1tbl, K3; K80; K3, sl1wyf

BOTTOM BODY EDGE

Row 1-6           K88 (After knitting your desired length of the body, knit 6 rows of garter stitch), BO your last row and weave in the tail

SLEEVES

Work in the round. Start with the underarm area (for reference RIGHTIES can watch my video HERE, and LEFTIES can watch the video HERE). There are 2 extra stitches (but it looks like there are 4 sts).

Rnd 1                Start in the middle of your underarm area - CO one stitch of the 2 underarm sts, then CO one extra stitch to close the gap between your CO stitch and the first stitch of the sleeve; then K24; then  CO 2 more sts - again closing the gap between the sleeve stitches and underarm stitches - total 28 stitches (4 CO + 4 sleeve sts)
Rnd 2-10            K28
Rnd 11                K2tog, K24, SSK
Rnd 12-20          K26
Rnd 21                K2tog, K22, SSK
Rnd 22-30          K24
Rnd 31                K2tog, K20, SSK
Rnd 32-40          K22
Rnd 41                K2tog, K18, SSK
Rnd 42-52          K20
Rnd 53                P20
Rnd 54                K20
Rnd 55                P20
Rnd 56                K20
Rnd 57                P20
Rnd 58                K20
Rnd 59                BO 20sts and weave in the tail

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

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DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.