KNITTED SLEEVELESS LACE BLOUSE - Size Medium

I find myself often looking at all different yarns, thick and thin, colorful or natural, single color, hand painted. I find the artistry behind yarn-making fascinating. I also love variegated yarns - the ones that appeal to my eye and style.

About half a year ago I was scrolling through some websites with yarns and came across Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno. There were several very pretty variegated balls on display. So I bought 4 different skeins. Among them, I added to my cart one that was semi-neutral, in a sage/gray color.

Unfortunately, this yarn is now discontinued (what else is new), but you may still find it somewhere on the world wide web. 

If it is out of your reach, you could substitute this yarn with another one - but make sure it is #2 weight (sock yarn thickness). You could use THIS link to find a similar yarn. Or see THIS sparkly yarn from Amazon (an affiliate link).

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra.

Material:

• Approximately 200g of Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno; color 003; 70% Cotton, 19% Merino, 11% Alpaca; 570m/150 g per ball
• DPNs, Circulars Knitting Needles, Long Knitting Needles - US size #5 (3.75 mm)
• Hook 3.75 mm 
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:

• Women US Medium

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

• on US knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 6 sts x 8 rows

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
m1 - increase by making one stitch (I used m1R; you could also increase by knitting below your next stitch)
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
K2tog - knit two stitches together
M - stitch marker
eM - edge marker
bobble = 2hdc bobble - with crochet hook pull a loose loop through the next stitch, YO, pull a 2nd loop, YO, pull a 3rd loop (5 loops on the hook), pull yarn through all 5 loops; bring the hook behind your bobble and pick up the stitch just below the bobble and pull this stitch through the stitch on the hook; lastly, transfer the stitch from the hook onto the working needle
CDD - slip the next two stitches from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to knit; knit the next stitch; insert the left knitting needle into the two slipped stitches and pull them over the knitted stitch
KTBL - knit through the back loop
SLS - slip last stitch purl-wise with yarn in front
m1R - make one right (increase)
m1L - make one left (increase)
CCO - cable cast-on
RS - right side
WS - wrong side

NOTE:
While knitting this blouse I used 3 types of knitting needles - long needles, DPNs, and circular needles, each time switching to the best type to knit with.

Step-by-Step Directions:

SECTION #1

Foundation: to start knitting yoke cast on 112 stitches

Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, join needles into a circle
Rnd 2-6       *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row
Rnd 7          *[K7, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 8-9       K128
Rnd 10        *[K8, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 11-12    K144
Rnd 13        *[K9, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 14-16   K160
Rnd 17        *[K10, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 176 sts

SECTION #2 - PATTERN PART

Work the "8 stitch/10 rows" pattern (the bobble could be substituted with K1 instead):

Rnd 1        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 2        K176
Rnd 3        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 4        K176
Rnd 5        *[YO, SSK, K1, bobble, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 6        K176
Rnd 7        *[K1, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, M]* - 22x
Rnd 8        K176
Rnd 9        *[K2, YO, CDD, YO, K3, M]* - 22x
Rnd 10       K176; remove your markers

SECTION #3

Continue working the yoke; start counting from 1

Rnd 1        *[K11, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 192 sts
Rnd 2-4     K192
Rnd 5        *[K12, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 208 sts
Rnd 6-7     K208

SECTION #4

At this point organize your stitches by placing markers as such:

Rnd 8        (back part) K10, eM, K44, eM, K10, M; (first sleeve) K43, M; (front part) K10, eM, K38, eM, K10, M; (the second sleeve) K43, M (end of the row)

Rnd 9      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K38, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

Rnd 10      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K16, increase in each of next 6 sts as such: *[K1, YO, K1]*, K16, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M (total 220 sts)

Rnd 11-13  (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

In the next row bind off your sleeves, and place your front part on the holder (a thick string of yarn); when finished with your 14th round start working on your back part

Rnd 14       (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x; BO 43 sleeve sts; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; BO 43 sleeve sts; do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BACK PART

Keep working back and forth - odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side, start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K44, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (64 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 44, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K44, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (66 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K46, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K46, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (68 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K48, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K48, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 90 sts total. Fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - FRONT PART

Work back and forth just like you worked "the back part" starting on the right side (odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side), and start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K52, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K52, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (74 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K54, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K54, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (76 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K56, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K56, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (78 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P58, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 96 sts total. Do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BODY

From now on work in the round on the right side, and start counting from 1

Rnd 1       (front part) KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K76, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS and to join the back part: *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, m1R, K70, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS; join your knit to work in the round (204 sts)

Rnd 2-6     (front part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K78, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (back part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K72, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x;  (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (204 sts)

Rnd 7-?     K204 (remove all eMs) - after you knit your desired length, finish your blouse with a few rows of *[K1, P1]* edging, and then weave in all your ends.

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any item) made by you. Credit me, please.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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Copyright page - click HERE

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PINK HEAVEN - GIRLS TOP DOWN SUMMER DRESS

Hello, my virtual knitting friends. Not too long ago, I received yarn from "ICE YARNS" (a yarn company in  Turkey) in support of my dress design for a two-year-old girl. The yarn is called "Baby Merino." It is a combination of merino, acrylic, and polyamide yarns. The materials in this yarn make it easy to take care of the finished product. Wash it on a gentle cycle in cool water with like items and lay it flat to dry.

As the name of the yarn suggests, the company developed it for baby knits. I just adore the combination of pink-gray-white colors, and so these were the colors I picked to use for knitting this girl's dress. 

I carried the dress idea in my head for a while - finally, today I finished it, which I can publish another free written pattern for you.

While knitting this dress, you need to know how to do these stitches: Knit, purl, m1R, m1L, m1P, bobble, YO, and knit below 4 stitches. No worries if you do not know how to do some of the stitches - I show my viewers how to knit these stitches in my video (for right-handed knitters and left-handed knitters also.) 

 If you would like to knit this dress, you will have to buy the yarn online. One way is to contact the ICE  YARNS company (however, they sell their yarns in bulk), or visit THIS WEBSITE,  or find your yarn via eBay, or Etsy. 

Also, according to measurements, it is for a 2-year-old toddler. If you want to make it for a 3-year-old you may increase strap stitches from 30 sts to 36 sts (make it wider around the body), so instead of 36-30-36-30 stitches, you would have 36-36-36-36 sts. For a 4-year-old girl, I would increase the front, back, and strap stitches to 42-36-42-36, where 42 sts would represent the straps and 36 sts would represent the back/front parts. However, you need to use your judgment. Of course with more stitches in your body area, the number count would change accordingly.

If you'd love to knit along with me - click on either link below (depending on if you are rightie or leftie).

VIDEO "PINK HEAVEN" FOR RIGHTIES

VIDEO "PINK HEAVEN" FOR LEFTIES

SOON THERE WILL BE A CROCHET VERSION OF THIS DRESS.

ENJOY.

Material:

• Yarn - ICE YARNS, Baby Merino; Colors: 2 balls of Salmon, 1 ball of White, and 1 ball of Gray; Sport (#2); 40% Merino, 40% Acrylic, 20% Polyamide; 1.76 oz/50g; 218 yds/200 m; 
• Knitting needles #3 (3.25 mm)
• Markers
  
• Hook 2.75 mm
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl
M - marker

m1L - pick a leading strand between the stitches by inserting a needle front to back and knit a stitch leaning to the left
m1R - pick a leading strand between the stitches by inserting a needle back to front and knit a stitch leaning to the right

m1P - using the m1R technique (insert a needle back to front) purl the stitch instead of knitting it

B - bobble: with a knitting needle or a hook pull yarn through the stitch to the desired height of the bobble (keep it on the needle, do not drop it just yet), then YO and pull yarn through the same stitch - do this 3 times (7 loops on your needle or hook), then pull yarn through all the seven loops, and pull yarn again through the stitch you just made, then pull yarn through the stitch right below the stitch you were working your bobble in, and lastly pull the yarn through the two loops. If you used a hook, place the stitch on your working needle and continue knitting (see the video)

YO - yarn over

K4b - insert your knitting needle through your 4th stitch below the next stitch (keep it on your needle) and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle (see the video)

BO - bind off

Gauge (stockinette st):

4" x 4" = 22 sts x 30 rows

Measurements (measured flat): 

Step-by-Step Directions:

This dress is knitted top-down. CO 132 sts with Salmon color yarn.

Knit with Salmon color yarn:

Row 1             P132, join into a circle

Note: if you are knitting on DPNs, distribute stitches among 4 DPNs as such: 36-30-36-30; if you are knitting on circular needles, place a marker between the above-mentioned stitches.
Rnd 2             P132
Rnd 3             *[K1, m1L, K34, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K28, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 4             K140
Rnd 5             *[K1, m1L; *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 6x; m1R, K1; M, K1, m1L;  *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 5x ; m1R, K1; M, ]* - repeat everything in square [ ] 2x

Rnd 6             K148

Rnd 7             *[P1, m1P, P38, m1P, P1; M ; P1, m1P, P32, m1P, P1; M ; ]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 8             P156

Knit with White color yarn:

Rnd 9             *[K1, m1L, K40, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K34, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 10            K164
Rnd 11           *[K1, m1L, K42, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K36, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 12            K172

Knit with Gray color yarn:

Rnd 13            *[K1, m1L, K44, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K38, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x

Rnd 14            P180
Rnd 15            *[P1, m1P, P46, m1P, P1; M ; P1, m1P, P40, m1P, P1; M ; ]* - repeat 2x

Rnd 16             K188
Rnd 17             *[K1, m1L, K48, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K42, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x

Rnd 18             *[K2, *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 8x; K2; M, K2, *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 7x ; K2; M, ]* - repeat everything in square [ ] 2x (196 sts)

Rnd 19             *[K1, m1L, K50, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K44, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x (204 sts)

Rnd 20             P204
Rnd 21             BO purl-wise 54 sts, P48 (front), BO purl-wise 54 sts, P48 (back)

Start knitting with Salmon color on your front as such: 

Rnd 22             *[K2, YO]* - repeat to last 2 sts, K2, cable CO 5 sts, attach front to back: *[K2, YO]* - repeat to last 2 sts, K2, cable CO 5 sts

Note: you should have 71 sts for the front, 5 sts for underarm, 71 sts for the back, 5 sts for underarm - a total of 152 sts.

Rnd 23-42      K152

Find the 36th stitch on your front part and put a marker on the 4th stitch BELOW it. You will increase into that stitch 6x as such:

Rnd 43            K33, insert your knitting needle through your marked stitch and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle, *[K1, K4b]* - repeat 5x (total 6 sts increased); K the rest of the stitches (114) to  the end (total 158 sts)

Rnd 44-53       K158

Rnd 54            K36, insert your knitting needle through your marked stitch and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle, *[K1, K4b ]* - repeat 5x in the same stitch (total 6 sts increased); K the rest of the stitches (117) to  the end (total 164 sts)

Rnd 55-64       K164

Rnd 65            K39, insert your knitting needle through your marked stitch and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle, *[K1, K4b]* - repeat 5x (total 6 sts increased); K the rest of the stitches (120) to  the end (total 170 sts)

Rnd 66               K170

Note: Increase by 4 stitches so you have multiple of 6 sts (174:6= 29 repeats)

Rnd 67               K89, m1R, K5, m1L, K71,  m1R, K5, m1L (total 174 sts)
Rnd 68-117        K174 sts

Knit with Gray color yarn:

Rnd 118              K174
Rnd 119-120       P174
Rnd 121-122       K174

Rnd 123              *[K3, B, K2]* - repeat to end (29x)

Rnd 124               K1174

Rnd 125-6            P174

Knit with White color yarn:

Rnd 127-130             K174

Knit with Salmon color yarn:

Rnd 131                   K174
Rnd 132-3                P174

Rnd 134-5                K174

Rnd 136                   *[K3, B, K2]* - repeat to end (29x)
Rnd 137                   K174

Rnd 138                   P174

Rnd 139                   BO purlwise all sts, weave in the ends

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.