A smaller project allows you to experiment with luxurious yarns you might hesitate to use for a larger project. Making socks for smaller feet can be very rewarding. Also, quality sock yarn guarantees wonderfully breathable socks.
Tips for Knitting Socks for Size 5 Feet:
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Choose the Right Needles: Since you'll be working with sock yarn, you'll need needles appropriate for the yarn weight you select. Double-pointed needles (DPNs) are the most common choice for sock knitting, so look for sizes in the 2.25mm (US 1) to 2.75mm (US 2) range. With thicker yarn, you may need the 3.25mm knitting needles.
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Check Your Gauge: It's even more important to swatch (knit a small sample) for gauge when knitting for a small size. This ensures you achieve the correct stitch definition and fit for the recipient's foot. If you knit tight, choose needles in a bigger size, and if you are a loose knitter, choose a smaller size.
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Pattern Selection: Many sock knitting patterns are sized for a range of foot circumferences. Look for patterns that include a size small or a child's size, and follow the stitch counts for the appropriate size. Or follow my pattern below.
For my project, I used a sock yarn from my stash. It is a self-striping yarn, so I opted for a simple pattern. Unfortunately, this sock yarn has been discontinued, but I am sure you can find yarn of similar quality that has a beautiful color. Here is a website that can be very helpful with your substitution.
Materials Used:
Sock Yarn - Cascade Yarns, Sassy Stripes; 218 yards (199 m); 50 gr (1.76 oz); 75% Superwash Merino wool, 25% Nylon/Polyamide (discontinued)
Knitting Needles - 2.75 mm (DPNs or Circular)
Yarn Needle For Kitchener Stitch
Scissors
Gouge (stockinette stitch):
- on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 8 sts x 11 rows
Size:
- Shoe size: ~ US size 6
- Ankle Area: ~ 6-7” circumference
- Ribbing Height: 6.5”
- Sole width: 3.5” (circumference is ~ 7”)
- Length of the sole: 8”
Abbreviation:
DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively
Pattern:
Rnd 5-8 K28
Rnd 13-16 K28
We will work in sections (the cuff, the flap, the turning heel, the gusset, the foot, the toe part), and each of these sections will start with Row 1.
Make 2 identical socks.
The Cuff
Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 58 stitches
Rnd 1 *[K1, P1]* - to the end of the row, then distribute the stitches among 4 DPNs (15-15-14-14), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle, and start knitting in the round. If you use circular needles, divide your stitches into 2 parts (30-28); with long circulars use a magic loop.
Rnd 2-? *[K1, P1]* - to the end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff about 7.5"tall (about 70 rows)
The Heel Flap
If knitting on DPNs, divide your stitches as such: needle #1 - 30 sts (heel), needles #2 and #3 - 14 sts each (instep).
Work on your first 30 sts only, back and forth (NOT in the round)
Row 1-20 *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end, turn
I knitted a total of 20 rows.
Turning The Heel (row by row)
Keep working your sock back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.
Row 1 (RS) sl. 1st st, K15, SSK, K1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2 (WS) sl. 1st st, P3, P2tog, P1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 3 (RS) sl. 1st st, K4, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4 (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5 (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6 (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7 (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8 (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9 (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10 (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11 (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12 (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 13 (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK (0 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 14 (WS) sl. 1st st, P14, P2tog (0 sts left on the needle), turn
The Gusset
Note: From now on, you will work on RS only, in the round.
You will proceed as such:
- first, knit 16 sts (the "turning the heel stitches")
- turn your sock sideways and pick up 12 stitches along the first side - I added extra stitches because I didn't want to end up with a big space between the needles, so distribute these 12 sts evenly;
- then K28
- pick up another 12 sts along the other side of the flap (same as the first side) - you should have 68 stitches on your needles, distributed as such: N1 (the BEGINNING of the row) - 16 sts (from turning the heel); N2 - 12 sts (= first side of the flap); N3 - 28 sts (top of the foot/instep and the pattern part); N4 - 12 sts (= second side of the flap)
Note: If you knit on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you use circular needles insert markers between the 16-12-28-12 sts to keep track of your work. You also need to pay attention to your pattern on the instep needle (N3)
Rnd 1 (N1) K16; (N2) K10, K2tog; (N3) Pattern Row 1; (N4) SSK, K10 (66 sts)
Rnd 2 (N1) K16; (N2) K11; (N3) Pattern Row 2; (N4) K11 (66 sts)
Rnd 3 (N1) K16; (N2) K9, K2tog;(N3) Pattern Row 3; (N4) SSK, K9 (64 sts)
Rnd 4 (N1) K16; (N2) K10; (N3) Pattern Row 4; (N4) K10 (64 sts)
Rnd 5 (N1) K16; (N2) K8, K2tog; (N3) Pattern Row 5; (N4) SSK, K8 (62 sts)
Rnd 6 (N1) K16; (N2) K9; (N3) Pattern Row 6; (N4) K9 (62 sts)
Rnd 7 (N1) K16; (N2) K7, K2tog; (N3) Pattern Row 7; (N4) SSK, K7 (60 sts)
Rnd 8 (N1) K16; (N2) K8; (N3) Pattern Row 8; (N4) K8 (60 sts)
Rnd 9 (N1) K16; (N2) K6, K2tog; (N3) Pattern Row 9; (N4) SSK, K6 (58 sts)
The Foot Part
Rnd 10 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 10; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 11 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 11; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 12 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 12; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 13 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 13; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 14 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 14; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 15 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 15; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 16 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 16; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Knit Rnd 17-32 below two times (Rnd 17-48)
Rnd 17 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 1; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 18 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 2; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 19 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 3; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 20 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 4; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 21 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 5; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 22 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 6; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 23 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 7; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 24 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 8; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 25 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 9; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 26 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 10; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 27 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 11;(N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 28 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 12; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 29 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 13; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 30 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 14; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 31 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 15; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 32 (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 16; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Then knit Rnd 17-24 again, before decreasing for the toes. Total 56 rows for the foot part.
The Toe Part
Rnd 1 K2, K2tog, K22, SSK, K2, K28 (56 sts)
Rnd 2 K56
Rnd 3 *[K2, K2tog, K20, SSK, K2]* - 2x (52 sts)
Rnd 4 K52
Rnd 5 *[K2, K2tog, K18, SSK, K2]* - 2x (48 sts)
Rnd 6 K48
Rnd 7 *[K2, K2tog, K16, SSK, K2]* - 2x (44 sts)
Rnd 8 K44
Rnd 9 *[K2, K2tog, K14, SSK, K2]* - 2x (40 sts)
Rnd 10 *[K2, K2tog, K12, SSK, K2]* - 2x (36 sts)
Rnd 11 *[K2, K2tog, K10, SSK, K2]* - 2x (32 sts)
Rnd 12 *[K2, K2tog, K8, SSK, K2]* - 2x (28 sts)
Rnd 13 *[K2, K2tog, K6, SSK, K2]* - 2x (24 sts)
To Finish Each Sock:
Move the first 12 sts onto one DPN, then move the last 12 sts onto another DPN, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails.
Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.
Thank you.
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