I never liked all-pink baby clothes. They don't appeal to me much. Because of that, I used to dress my baby girl in dark colors, like black, LOL. It actually looked great on her, because she had a milky skin and few blond hairs. However if the pink is not overpowering and it is combined with another color that is in my humble opinion complementing the pink, it is a different story. Recently I bought three colors of soft acrylic yarn (I do prefer natural yarns though, but some of them can be scratchy for baby's soft skin) - one in dark blue, one in gray and one in pink. I made a sweater-hat-booties set for a friend in pink and gray, which you can see HERE.
On this page you can see a combination of dark blue and pink. I think that pink in combination of either gray or in this case dark blue is just beautiful and I hope you agree with my opinion.
Step-by-Step Directions:
Knitted on US size 5 needles.
Dark Blue Yarn - the skirt part (about 9 and 1/2 inches in length)
1. Cast on 76 stitches and K1, P1 six rows (always slipping last stitch)
2. Knit stockinette stitch = one row knit, second row purl - repeat these two rows for 59 rows
3. In 60th row K2, K2tog, (K1, K2tog) - repeat; when finished you need to have 50 stitches on your needle
4. Purl entire 61st row
Pink Yarn - the top part
In this stitch (which is a variation of so called Honeycomb Stitch) you need to have multiple of 6 stitches + 2 stitches (which is 48 + 2)
1. (Knitting on the right side) K2, (P4, K2) repeat
2. (Knitting on the wrong side) P2, (K4, P2) repeat
3. Third row is worked this way - K1, *slip next stitch onto the cable needle and hold in FRONT, P2 from left your left needle, K1 from cable needle, slip next 2 sts onto the cable needle and hold in BACK, K1 from left needle, P2 from cable needle and now repeat from * across to your last stitch, which you will K1
4. K3, P2, (K4, P2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will K3
5. P3, K2, (P4, K2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will P3
6. K3, P2, (K4, P2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will K3
7. P3, K2, (P4, K2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will P3
8. K3, P2, (K4, P2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will K3
9. Ninth row (knitting on the right side) - K1, *slip next two stitch onto the cable needle and hold in BACK, K1 from left your left needle, P2 from cable needle, slip next stitch onto the cable needle and hold in FRONT, P2 from left needle, K1 from cable needle and now repeat from * across to your last stitch, which you will K1
10. Tenth row (knitting on the wrong side) - P2, (K4, P2) repeat
11. (Knitting on the right side) K2, (P4, K2) repeat
12. (Knitting on the wrong side) P2, (K4, P2) repeat
Repeat rows 1 through 12 for the pattern.
In row 13 and 14 (at beginning) I bind off 3 stitches for armhole, in row 15 and 16 BO one stitch for armhole while continuing the pattern. After I bind off these stitches I continued in this pattern, however the end stitches "changed" = they were different from above. Use your judgment in knitting the end area after you bind off.
In 20th row (wrong side) K17, slip 16th stitch over the 17th (bind off and leaving 15 stitches for right shoulder that you will knit later), knit another (18th) stitch and slip 17th st over 18th - and so on (this will be your opening for head), until you have left 15 stitches.
Starting in 21th row you will work on the left shoulder part. At this point you will just follow the pattern, again adjusting according for the end stitches. Also, you can slip 15 stitches for the right shoulder onto a stitch holder like this one OR like this one.
To finish the left shoulder you will bind off 7 stitches in 33rd and 8 stitches in 35th rows.
Then, you will work the pattern on left shoulder moving the stitches from the holder onto needle and starting to knit the right (face) side. You will bind off stitches (7+8) for your left shoulder on your wrong side.
Do the back of the dress almost same, except you can knit more rows for the head opening so the back doesn't have as low cut as the front.After you are finished with the front and the back of the dress sew it or crochet it together. Crochet the scallops (or pattern of your choice) around the armholes and head/neck opening.
Actual measurements of the dress:
the opening (circumference) for armholes is 8 inches
the opening (circumference) for a head/neck is 15 inches
the length of this dress is about 14 inches
Nikdy jsem neprilnula k ruzovym obleckum proholcicky. Nejak nejsou muj styl. Dceru jsem v maldi oblikala hodne do tmavych barev, jako napr. cerna, LOL. Jako blondynce s par chlupama na hlave ji to moc sluselo. Ale obcas jsem ji oblekla i do ruzovych miminkovskych oblecku. Ale pokud ruzova je kombinovana s jinou neutralni barvou a neprevazuje, tak si myslim, ze to je nadherna barva. Nedavno jsem koupila akrylovou prizi ve trech barvach - tmave modrou (takzvana namorni modr), sedivou a ruzovou. Sice preferuju prirodni vlnu, ale ta muze miminka prilis skrabat a tak se obycejne uchyluji k akrylu.
Zde muzete videt saticky pro holcicku v tmave modre a ruzove. Na TETO strance muzete shlednout kombinaci ruzove a sedive.
Postup:
Tmavomodra Cast - sukynka (asi 24 cm)
1. Nahodit 76 ok a plest hladce obratce 6 rad
2. pote jedna rada hladce a jedna rada obratce - celkem 59 rad
3. V 60te rade uples 2 hladce a pote splest dva ocka, uplest jedno, splest dva ocka uplest jedno - az do konce rady - melo by vam zustat 50 ocek
4. Obratce celou 61-ni radu
Ruzova Cast - vrsek
Tento vzorek vyzaduje 6 ocek (krat kolik vzorku potrebujete) +2 ocka (v nasem pripade 6x8=48 + 2)
1. (Lic) 2 hladce, (4 obratce, 2 hladce) v zavorce opakovat
2. (Rub) 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) v zavorce opakovat
3. Treti rada je pletena takto - 1 ocko hladce, *dalsi ocko presunout na pomocnou jehlici a umistit vepredu upletu, uplest 2 obratce z vasi leve jehlice, uplest 1 hladce z pomocne jehlice, presunout 2 ocka na pomocnou jehlici dozadu za uplet, uplest 1 hladce z leve jehlice, uplest 2 obratce z pomocne jehlice - a nyni opakovat od *, pres celou radu a ukoncit jednim okem hladce
4. 3 hladce, 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete hladce
5. 3 obratce, 2 hladce, (4 obratce, 2 hladce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete obratce
6. 3 hladce, 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete hladce
7. 3 obratce, 2 hladce, (4 obratce, 2 hladce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete obratce
8. 3 hladce, 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete hladce
9. Devata rade (lic) - 1 ocko hladce, *presunout 2 ocka na pomocnou jehlici dozadu za uplet, uplest 1 hladce z leve jehlice, uplest 2 obratce z pomocne jehlice, dalsi ocko presunout na pomocnou jehlici a umistit vepredu upletu, uplest 2 obratce z vasi leve jehlice, uplest 1 hladce z pomocne jehlice - a nyni opakovat od *, pres celou radu a ukoncit jednim okem hladce
10. (Rub) 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) v zavorce opakovat
11. (Lic) 2 hladce, (4 obratce, 2 hladce) v zavorce opakovat
12. (Rub) 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) v zavorce opakovat
Opakovat rady 1 az 12 aby jste dosahly (-i) vzorek.
Ve 13te a 14te rade jsem ujmula 3 ocka na podpazi, v 15 and 16 te rade jsem ujmula jedno ocko, zatimco jsem prizpusobila vzorek zaroven s ujimanim - tudiz po ujimani se POPIS vzorku na konci zmenil.
V 20te rade (rub) uplest 17 ocek hladce, prehodit 16 ocko pres 17 (tj. ujmout - cimz zustane 15 ocek pro prave rameno ktere upletete pozdeji), uplest dalsi ocko (18nacte) a prehodit pres 17te ocko - atd. (timto ujmete vystrih pro krk/hlavicku) az vam zustane 15 ocke na leve rameno.
Ode 21ni rady pokracujete v pleteni vzorku, opet potrebujete prizpusobit posledni ocka v kazde rade vzorku.Dokoncite uplet ujmutim nejdrive 7 ocek v 33ti rade a pak 8mi ocek v 35te rade.
Pote zacnete plest vzorek leve predni casti na licove strane. Az musite ujmout 7+8 ocek po rubove strane.
Zadni cast udelate temer stejnou - pouze upletete vice rad nez zacnete ujimat vystrih pro krk/hlavu, cimz vystrih neni tak nizce posazeny jako vepredu. Sesijete nebo shackujete predni a zadni cast saticek a obhackujete podle vasich predstav vystrih a otvor pro paze.
On this page you can see a combination of dark blue and pink. I think that pink in combination of either gray or in this case dark blue is just beautiful and I hope you agree with my opinion.
Step-by-Step Directions:
Knitted on US size 5 needles.
Dark Blue Yarn - the skirt part (about 9 and 1/2 inches in length)
1. Cast on 76 stitches and K1, P1 six rows (always slipping last stitch)
2. Knit stockinette stitch = one row knit, second row purl - repeat these two rows for 59 rows
3. In 60th row K2, K2tog, (K1, K2tog) - repeat; when finished you need to have 50 stitches on your needle
4. Purl entire 61st row
Pink Yarn - the top part
In this stitch (which is a variation of so called Honeycomb Stitch) you need to have multiple of 6 stitches + 2 stitches (which is 48 + 2)
1. (Knitting on the right side) K2, (P4, K2) repeat
2. (Knitting on the wrong side) P2, (K4, P2) repeat
3. Third row is worked this way - K1, *slip next stitch onto the cable needle and hold in FRONT, P2 from left your left needle, K1 from cable needle, slip next 2 sts onto the cable needle and hold in BACK, K1 from left needle, P2 from cable needle and now repeat from * across to your last stitch, which you will K1
4. K3, P2, (K4, P2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will K3
5. P3, K2, (P4, K2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will P3
6. K3, P2, (K4, P2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will K3
7. P3, K2, (P4, K2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will P3
8. K3, P2, (K4, P2) repeat to last 3 stitches, which you will K3
9. Ninth row (knitting on the right side) - K1, *slip next two stitch onto the cable needle and hold in BACK, K1 from left your left needle, P2 from cable needle, slip next stitch onto the cable needle and hold in FRONT, P2 from left needle, K1 from cable needle and now repeat from * across to your last stitch, which you will K1
10. Tenth row (knitting on the wrong side) - P2, (K4, P2) repeat
11. (Knitting on the right side) K2, (P4, K2) repeat
12. (Knitting on the wrong side) P2, (K4, P2) repeat
Repeat rows 1 through 12 for the pattern.
In row 13 and 14 (at beginning) I bind off 3 stitches for armhole, in row 15 and 16 BO one stitch for armhole while continuing the pattern. After I bind off these stitches I continued in this pattern, however the end stitches "changed" = they were different from above. Use your judgment in knitting the end area after you bind off.
In 20th row (wrong side) K17, slip 16th stitch over the 17th (bind off and leaving 15 stitches for right shoulder that you will knit later), knit another (18th) stitch and slip 17th st over 18th - and so on (this will be your opening for head), until you have left 15 stitches.
Starting in 21th row you will work on the left shoulder part. At this point you will just follow the pattern, again adjusting according for the end stitches. Also, you can slip 15 stitches for the right shoulder onto a stitch holder like this one OR like this one.
To finish the left shoulder you will bind off 7 stitches in 33rd and 8 stitches in 35th rows.
Then, you will work the pattern on left shoulder moving the stitches from the holder onto needle and starting to knit the right (face) side. You will bind off stitches (7+8) for your left shoulder on your wrong side.
Do the back of the dress almost same, except you can knit more rows for the head opening so the back doesn't have as low cut as the front.After you are finished with the front and the back of the dress sew it or crochet it together. Crochet the scallops (or pattern of your choice) around the armholes and head/neck opening.
Actual measurements of the dress:
the opening (circumference) for armholes is 8 inches
the opening (circumference) for a head/neck is 15 inches
the length of this dress is about 14 inches
Nikdy jsem neprilnula k ruzovym obleckum proholcicky. Nejak nejsou muj styl. Dceru jsem v maldi oblikala hodne do tmavych barev, jako napr. cerna, LOL. Jako blondynce s par chlupama na hlave ji to moc sluselo. Ale obcas jsem ji oblekla i do ruzovych miminkovskych oblecku. Ale pokud ruzova je kombinovana s jinou neutralni barvou a neprevazuje, tak si myslim, ze to je nadherna barva. Nedavno jsem koupila akrylovou prizi ve trech barvach - tmave modrou (takzvana namorni modr), sedivou a ruzovou. Sice preferuju prirodni vlnu, ale ta muze miminka prilis skrabat a tak se obycejne uchyluji k akrylu.
Zde muzete videt saticky pro holcicku v tmave modre a ruzove. Na TETO strance muzete shlednout kombinaci ruzove a sedive.
Postup:
Tmavomodra Cast - sukynka (asi 24 cm)
1. Nahodit 76 ok a plest hladce obratce 6 rad
2. pote jedna rada hladce a jedna rada obratce - celkem 59 rad
3. V 60te rade uples 2 hladce a pote splest dva ocka, uplest jedno, splest dva ocka uplest jedno - az do konce rady - melo by vam zustat 50 ocek
4. Obratce celou 61-ni radu
Ruzova Cast - vrsek
Tento vzorek vyzaduje 6 ocek (krat kolik vzorku potrebujete) +2 ocka (v nasem pripade 6x8=48 + 2)
1. (Lic) 2 hladce, (4 obratce, 2 hladce) v zavorce opakovat
2. (Rub) 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) v zavorce opakovat
3. Treti rada je pletena takto - 1 ocko hladce, *dalsi ocko presunout na pomocnou jehlici a umistit vepredu upletu, uplest 2 obratce z vasi leve jehlice, uplest 1 hladce z pomocne jehlice, presunout 2 ocka na pomocnou jehlici dozadu za uplet, uplest 1 hladce z leve jehlice, uplest 2 obratce z pomocne jehlice - a nyni opakovat od *, pres celou radu a ukoncit jednim okem hladce
4. 3 hladce, 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete hladce
5. 3 obratce, 2 hladce, (4 obratce, 2 hladce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete obratce
6. 3 hladce, 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete hladce
7. 3 obratce, 2 hladce, (4 obratce, 2 hladce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete obratce
8. 3 hladce, 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) opakovat do poslednich 3 ocek, ktere upletete hladce
9. Devata rade (lic) - 1 ocko hladce, *presunout 2 ocka na pomocnou jehlici dozadu za uplet, uplest 1 hladce z leve jehlice, uplest 2 obratce z pomocne jehlice, dalsi ocko presunout na pomocnou jehlici a umistit vepredu upletu, uplest 2 obratce z vasi leve jehlice, uplest 1 hladce z pomocne jehlice - a nyni opakovat od *, pres celou radu a ukoncit jednim okem hladce
10. (Rub) 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) v zavorce opakovat
11. (Lic) 2 hladce, (4 obratce, 2 hladce) v zavorce opakovat
12. (Rub) 2 obratce, (4 hladce, 2 obratce) v zavorce opakovat
Opakovat rady 1 az 12 aby jste dosahly (-i) vzorek.
Ve 13te a 14te rade jsem ujmula 3 ocka na podpazi, v 15 and 16 te rade jsem ujmula jedno ocko, zatimco jsem prizpusobila vzorek zaroven s ujimanim - tudiz po ujimani se POPIS vzorku na konci zmenil.
V 20te rade (rub) uplest 17 ocek hladce, prehodit 16 ocko pres 17 (tj. ujmout - cimz zustane 15 ocek pro prave rameno ktere upletete pozdeji), uplest dalsi ocko (18nacte) a prehodit pres 17te ocko - atd. (timto ujmete vystrih pro krk/hlavicku) az vam zustane 15 ocke na leve rameno.
Ode 21ni rady pokracujete v pleteni vzorku, opet potrebujete prizpusobit posledni ocka v kazde rade vzorku.Dokoncite uplet ujmutim nejdrive 7 ocek v 33ti rade a pak 8mi ocek v 35te rade.
Pote zacnete plest vzorek leve predni casti na licove strane. Az musite ujmout 7+8 ocek po rubove strane.
Zadni cast udelate temer stejnou - pouze upletete vice rad nez zacnete ujimat vystrih pro krk/hlavu, cimz vystrih neni tak nizce posazeny jako vepredu. Sesijete nebo shackujete predni a zadni cast saticek a obhackujete podle vasich predstav vystrih a otvor pro paze.