Many knitters are discouraged from knitting socks because they have a hard time with either double pointed needles or circular needles or both. If you knit socks on double pointed needles, you need to know how to cast on stitches, then transfer them to 4 needles and connect them into a circle without twisting the knit otherwise, it will look awful. I actually made three videos how to start knitting on double pointed needles. The first video is about "how to hold double pointed needles" (click HERE). The second video is about "how to cast on stitches and immediately connect into a circle" (you can see it HERE). And the third video is about how to cast on, knit one row and then join into a circle" (you can see it HERE).
But socks can be knitted on two knitting needles back and forth and then sewed on the sides, which is the easiest technique of knitting socks for any seasoned beginner. There is another method of knitting socks on two needles and connecting sides as you knit, but that is slightly more complex. One of these days I may do a post about that as well.
Below you will find the easiest pattern for socks knitted on two needles (without the lacey part though), including steps how to put them together. The pattern is for a small foot - I would say shoe size 6-6.5
Also, I made a video, which should help some of you with assembling the socks together - to see it CLICK HERE
Size:
Foot length 8" to 8.5"
Materials:
Gouge (stockinette stitch):
Size:
These socks are approximately for ankles about 6" around and will stretch up to 6.5" around (CO 24 sts). Add 2 extra stitches to make socks about 0.5" wider around the ankle (CO 26 sts), and 4 extra stitches will make the sock wide 1" around the ankle (CO 28 stitches). The length of these socks is 8.5", and can stretch a little. The pattern is for ankle socks - the height is 3" - unless you decide to make your cuff longer (= knit more rows).
Note: For shorter socks knit a lower number of rows between your finished heel and before you start knitting your toe area, also adjust the row count for the top of the foot area.
Abbreviation:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
pm - place marker
K2tog - knit two stitches together
SSK - slip slip and then knit them together through the back loop
incr - increase by knitting below your next stitch (Note: do not take the next stitch off your needle after you knit below it - you'll need to knit it, otherwise you would not make an increase); you can also make an increase by knitting two stitches in your next stitch = through the front loop and then without dropping the stitch knit one more stitch through the back loop, which is called knit front back (kfb) - but this type of increase will be more noticeable
st(s) - stitch(es)
BO - bind off
Step-by-Step Directions:
Make 2 pieces
IMPORTANT - place markers as indicated - it will be very helpful because they have to match when you fold the sock to crochet or sew first the heel and then sides together
Foundation: CO loosely 24 stitches for small socks {26 for medium, and 28 for larger socks}; you could use 1 size bigger needles just to CO (= 2.75 mm knitting needles) instead of loose CO
A - The Cuff #1
Row 1-20 *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends). Also, you can adjust your rows to your specifications, but make sure you make a note of it because these rows will reflect in "F - The Cuff #2" AND the row count
Row 21 K24 {26, 28}
Row 22 P24 {26, 28}
Repeat Rows 21 and 22 five more times (total 12 rows combined)
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends). Also, you can adjust your rows to your specifications, but make sure you make a note of it because these rows will reflect in "E - The Top Of The Foot Area."
B - Forming The Heel
Note: we will start counting Rows from beginning
Row 1 K1, K2tog, K18 {20, 22}, SSK, K1
Row 2 P22 {24, 26}
Row 3 K1, K2tog, K16 {18, 20}, SSK, K1
Row 4 P20 {22, 24}
Row 5 K1, K2tog, K14 {16, 18}, SSK, K1
Row 6 P18 {20, 22}
Row 7 K1, K2tog, K12 {14, 16}, SSK, K1
Row 8 P16 {18, 20}
Row 9 K1, K2tog, K10 {12, 14}, SSK, K1
Row 10 P14 {16, 18}
Row 11 K1, K2tog, K8 (10, 12}, SSK, K1
Row 12 P12, {14, 16}
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends); if you are knitting medium size socks do 1-2 extra decreases, and for larger socks 3-4 extra decreases - adjust your stitch count and row count!
Note: if you are knitting medium size socks do 1-2 extra increases, and for larger socks 3-4 extra increases - adjust your stitch count and row count!
Row 13 K1, incr, K9 {11, 13}, incr, K2
Row 14 P14 {16, 18}
Row 15 K1, incr, K11 {13, 15}, incr, K2
Row 16 P16 {18, 20}
Row 17 K1, incr, K13 {15, 17}, incr, K2
Row 18 P18 {20, 22}
Row 19 K1, incr, K15 {17, 19}, incr, K2
Row 20 P20 {22, 24}
Row 21 K1, incr, K17 {19, 21}, incr, K2
Row 22 P22 {24, 26}
Row 23 K1, incr, K19 {21, 23}, incr, K2
Row 24 P24 {26, 28}
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends)
C - Knitting The Sole Part (bottom of the foot)
Note: we will start counting Rows from beginning
Row 1 K24 {26, 28}
Row 2 P24 {26, 28}
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twenty nine more times (total 60 rows combined)
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends). Also, if you adjust your rows to your medium or large socks, make sure you make a note of it because these rows will reflect in "E - The Top Of The Foot Area."
D - Forming The Toe Area
I knitted The Toe Area exactly same way as The Heel = see "B - Forming The Heel" to knit The Toe Area
E - The Top of The Foot Area
The socks in the image have a design spread over 72 rows. However, this PATTERN FOR SIMPLE SOCKS is written with just plain knit and purl rows to make it easy for knitters that would like to try knitting their first socks.
HOPEFULLY, one of these days I will find the time to write a pattern for "LACEY SOCKS KNITTED ON 2 NEEDLES".
Note: we will start counting Rows from beginning again
Row 1 K24 {26, 28}
Row 2 P24 {26, 28}
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 thirty one more times (total 72 rows combined)
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends). Also, if you adjust your rows to your medium or large socks, make sure you make a note of it - you will need to add those stitches! Your TOP OF THE FOOT must equal to your SOLE + ANKLE PART (below the ribbing)
F - The Cuff #2
Row 1-20 *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end, then BO all sts. (Note: if you knitted your Cuff #1 longer, make sure you knit the same number of rows again)
Assembly:
If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE
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But socks can be knitted on two knitting needles back and forth and then sewed on the sides, which is the easiest technique of knitting socks for any seasoned beginner. There is another method of knitting socks on two needles and connecting sides as you knit, but that is slightly more complex. One of these days I may do a post about that as well.
Below you will find the easiest pattern for socks knitted on two needles (without the lacey part though), including steps how to put them together. The pattern is for a small foot - I would say shoe size 6-6.5
Also, I made a video, which should help some of you with assembling the socks together - to see it CLICK HERE
Size:
Foot length 8" to 8.5"
Materials:
- for small and short socks I used 1 ball of Loops & Threads, Luxury Sock, Super Fine Yarn, 75% Washable Wool/25% Nylon; 166 yds (152 m); 1.75 oz (50 gr), color "Autumn Fields" - (Note: for larger socks, and if you plan to knit socks with longer cuff buy 2 balls)
- Knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm)
- Scissors
- yarn needle (for thin yarn) to sew socks together
- on knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm) - 1"x1" = 8 sts x 10 rows
These socks are approximately for ankles about 6" around and will stretch up to 6.5" around (CO 24 sts). Add 2 extra stitches to make socks about 0.5" wider around the ankle (CO 26 sts), and 4 extra stitches will make the sock wide 1" around the ankle (CO 28 stitches). The length of these socks is 8.5", and can stretch a little. The pattern is for ankle socks - the height is 3" - unless you decide to make your cuff longer (= knit more rows).
Note: For shorter socks knit a lower number of rows between your finished heel and before you start knitting your toe area, also adjust the row count for the top of the foot area.
Abbreviation:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
pm - place marker
K2tog - knit two stitches together
SSK - slip slip and then knit them together through the back loop
incr - increase by knitting below your next stitch (Note: do not take the next stitch off your needle after you knit below it - you'll need to knit it, otherwise you would not make an increase); you can also make an increase by knitting two stitches in your next stitch = through the front loop and then without dropping the stitch knit one more stitch through the back loop, which is called knit front back (kfb) - but this type of increase will be more noticeable
st(s) - stitch(es)
BO - bind off
Step-by-Step Directions:
Make 2 pieces
IMPORTANT - place markers as indicated - it will be very helpful because they have to match when you fold the sock to crochet or sew first the heel and then sides together
Foundation: CO loosely 24 stitches for small socks {26 for medium, and 28 for larger socks}; you could use 1 size bigger needles just to CO (= 2.75 mm knitting needles) instead of loose CO
A - The Cuff #1
Row 1-20 *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends). Also, you can adjust your rows to your specifications, but make sure you make a note of it because these rows will reflect in "F - The Cuff #2" AND the row count
Row 21 K24 {26, 28}
Row 22 P24 {26, 28}
Repeat Rows 21 and 22 five more times (total 12 rows combined)
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends). Also, you can adjust your rows to your specifications, but make sure you make a note of it because these rows will reflect in "E - The Top Of The Foot Area."
B - Forming The Heel
Note: we will start counting Rows from beginning
- Decreasing for the heel
Row 1 K1, K2tog, K18 {20, 22}, SSK, K1
Row 2 P22 {24, 26}
Row 3 K1, K2tog, K16 {18, 20}, SSK, K1
Row 4 P20 {22, 24}
Row 5 K1, K2tog, K14 {16, 18}, SSK, K1
Row 6 P18 {20, 22}
Row 7 K1, K2tog, K12 {14, 16}, SSK, K1
Row 8 P16 {18, 20}
Row 9 K1, K2tog, K10 {12, 14}, SSK, K1
Row 10 P14 {16, 18}
Row 11 K1, K2tog, K8 (10, 12}, SSK, K1
Row 12 P12, {14, 16}
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends); if you are knitting medium size socks do 1-2 extra decreases, and for larger socks 3-4 extra decreases - adjust your stitch count and row count!
- Increasing for the heel
Note: if you are knitting medium size socks do 1-2 extra increases, and for larger socks 3-4 extra increases - adjust your stitch count and row count!
Row 13 K1, incr, K9 {11, 13}, incr, K2
Row 14 P14 {16, 18}
Row 15 K1, incr, K11 {13, 15}, incr, K2
Row 16 P16 {18, 20}
Row 17 K1, incr, K13 {15, 17}, incr, K2
Row 18 P18 {20, 22}
Row 19 K1, incr, K15 {17, 19}, incr, K2
Row 20 P20 {22, 24}
Row 21 K1, incr, K17 {19, 21}, incr, K2
Row 22 P22 {24, 26}
Row 23 K1, incr, K19 {21, 23}, incr, K2
Row 24 P24 {26, 28}
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends)
C - Knitting The Sole Part (bottom of the foot)
Note: we will start counting Rows from beginning
Row 1 K24 {26, 28}
Row 2 P24 {26, 28}
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twenty nine more times (total 60 rows combined)
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends). Also, if you adjust your rows to your medium or large socks, make sure you make a note of it because these rows will reflect in "E - The Top Of The Foot Area."
D - Forming The Toe Area
I knitted The Toe Area exactly same way as The Heel = see "B - Forming The Heel" to knit The Toe Area
E - The Top of The Foot Area
The socks in the image have a design spread over 72 rows. However, this PATTERN FOR SIMPLE SOCKS is written with just plain knit and purl rows to make it easy for knitters that would like to try knitting their first socks.
HOPEFULLY, one of these days I will find the time to write a pattern for "LACEY SOCKS KNITTED ON 2 NEEDLES".
Note: we will start counting Rows from beginning again
Row 1 K24 {26, 28}
Row 2 P24 {26, 28}
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 thirty one more times (total 72 rows combined)
Note: pm on the first and last stitches (= on both ends). Also, if you adjust your rows to your medium or large socks, make sure you make a note of it - you will need to add those stitches! Your TOP OF THE FOOT must equal to your SOLE + ANKLE PART (below the ribbing)
Socks in the image above are knitted with a lacey pattern, however, the pattern written above is for beginners, so the top part has a simple stockinette stitch only |
F - The Cuff #2
Row 1-20 *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end, then BO all sts. (Note: if you knitted your Cuff #1 longer, make sure you knit the same number of rows again)
Assembly:
- fold the heel area (right sides facing each other) and crochet or sew both sides (on the wrong side) to form the heel
- fold the sock (again right sides facing each other), so all your markers are lined up and crochet or sew the sock on both sides from the cuff down to the toe area
- weave in all loose ends
If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE
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DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
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Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.