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This web site is dedicated to my professor Stacy Israel, who taught all her students about the importance of being creative, and not just a consumer.

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Cat Hat


Beautiful model wearing my "Cat Hat" design
This "Cat Hat" was design for fun. For wearing it while skiing on the slopes. Perhaps even for the next Halloween.  However, it could symbolize disrespectful, derogatory and sexual treatment of women too.

Many of my friends will be going to Washington, DC for the Women's March. They will be giving a message to our leaders about women's rights for a decent life.

I will not be going to D.C., but my way to sympathize with their action and support their voice is to dedicate this "Cat Hat" pattern to them.

I wrote this pattern after I finished the hat (I was too busy taking images), so if anyone of you will find any error in the written pattern. Let me know. I keep super busy with other projects (including my art and my art exhibitions) so your help of checking for my errors would be greatly appreciated. See video link below.

Update: Why some people think they can put me down for siding with what is right? BTW - I blocked the name out of respect.




Click on the images to see a little bigger image.

FOR VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES - CLICK HERE

FOR VIDEO FOR LEFTIES - CLICK HERE

Size:
Adult Small/Medium (fits head 21" in circumference perfectly)
Measurements flat: width 11", length (top to bottom) 9"
Hat reaches slightly over the tip of the nose, and below the occipital bone.


Materials:
about 3/4 of ball of yarn that is worsted weight #4, I had about 3/4 of a Red Heart Super Saver in tri color - light pink/pink/brown color but I think they don't make this color combination. It is not a soft yarn at all, but it keeps the form very well; You can substitute another #4 worsted yarn - wool or acrylic your choice
Hook size 3.75mm (I used smaller size hook to make it denser)
Yarn needle
Scissors


Gauge:
4"x4" = 12 dc sts x 7 dc rows


Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet
sc - single crochet
sc2tog - two single crochet stitches together (decrease)
join - join with a slip stitch
prev. - previous


Step-by-Step:

NOTE: this pattern slightly differs from video (which is mentioned in video)

HAT PART

Foundation:  create a magic circle and work in rounds. Rnds 1-15 & Rnds 17-18 you will work on the right side (RS). In Rnd 16 you will work on the wrong side (WS)

Note: If you want a medium/large size hat you could crochet 10 sc sts in the first row instead of 9 sc sts, and for large even 11 sts in the first row, and then do same repeats in Rnds 2 through 14th. Of course you would have different count of stitches in each row than in the pattern below. Also, you would have to adjust the "opening for eyes" in the Rnds 15 through 18.

Rnd 1          into the magic circle - ch2 (counts as sc), 9 sc, join (total 10 sts)
Rnd 2          ch3 (counts as dc), 1 dc in same st as the ch3, 2 dc into each stitch from prev row, join (total 20 sts)
Rnd 3          ch3  (counts as dc), 1 dc in same st as the ch3, 1 dc in next; then *[2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next]* - 9x, join (total 30 sts)
Rnd 4          ch3  (counts as dc), 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next sts; then *[1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st]* - 9x, join (total 40 sts)
Rnd 5          ch3, 1 dc in same st as the ch3, 1 dc in next 3 consecutive sts; then *[2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 consecutive sts]* - 9x, join (total 50 sts)
Rnd 6          ch3  (counts as dc), 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 consecutive sts; then *[1 dc in next 2 consecutive sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 consecutive sts]* - 9x, join (total 60 sts)
Rnd 7           ch3  (counts as dc), 1 dc in next 4 consecutive sts, 2 dc in next st, then *[1 dc in next 5 consecutive sts, 2 dc in next st]* - 9x, join (total 70 sts)
Rnd 8-14      ch3  (counts as dc), 1 dc in next 69 consecutive sts, join (total 70 sts)
Rnd 15         ch3  (counts as dc), 1 dc in next 49 consecutive sts, turn, (total 50 sts) Note: there are 20 sts untouched (the part above your eyes - the eye opening). Later on we will crochet a "divide" in the middle = over the nose, between the eyes.


Picture #1 - Rnds 1 through 14
Picture #2, 3, 4 -  Rnds 15 through 16


Rnd 16         (WS) ch3  (counts as dc), 1 dc in next 49 consecutive sts, ch26 (Note: these 26 sts will be your bottom part below your eyes), join and turn to crochet on the RS (total 76 sts)

Picture #1, #2 - Rnd 16
Picture #3, #4, #5, #6 - beginning of Rnd 17


Rnd 17-18     (RS again) ch3 (counts as dc), 1 dc in next 75 consecutive sts, join (total 76 sts)

Pictures #1, #2, #3, #4 - Rnd 17
Picture #5 - finished Rnd 18


Weave in all the tails/ends.


DIVIDE BETWEEN THE EYES


Picture #1 - figuring our the 9th sts
Picture #2, #3, #4 - Row 1-3


Turn your hat upside down and insert your hook into your 9th st (leaving 8 sts untouched). You will crochet half double crochets 3 rows back and forth. You can also opt for 2 rows of double crochets instead.

Row 1-3           ch2, 1 hdc into next 3 sts, turn

OR

Row 1-2           ch3, 1 dc into next 3 sts, turn

Sewing in the "divide" (middle part)


When finished with your last row, leave a long enough tail to sew the divide to the "bottom part below the eyes". Count 12 sts from the corner to the middle and start sewing along next 4 sts (see images above for reference). When done weave in the tails/ends.


NOSE AND WHISKERS


Foundation:  start with a magic circle, leaving about 20" long string for whiskers

Image #1 - magic circle
Images #2 through #5 - sewing the "nose" on


Rnd 1          into the magic circle - ch3 (counts as dc), 12 dc, join (total 12 sts) and fasten off leaving about 20" long string for whiskers

Sew the circle (nose), including whiskers, onto the hat's lower part - see images above for a reference. Weave in the tails/ends


EARS

make 2 pieces

Image #1 - each ear has a long tail to use for sewing
Image #2, #3, #4 - ears pinned dow with sewing pins
Image #5 - sewing from inside out through the stitch on the ears
Image #6 - sewing from the outside to the inside along (outside) the edge of the ear


Rnd 1           ch19, join without twisting
Rnd 2           ch1, 1 sc into each ch from prev. row (18 sts)
Rnd 3           ch1, *[sc2tog, 1 sc into next 7 sts]* - 2x, join (16 sts)
Rnd 4           ch1, *[sc2tog, 1 sc into next 6 sts]* - 2x, join (14 sts)
Rnd 5           ch1, *[sc2tog, 1 sc into next 5 sts]* - 2x, join (12 sts)
Rnd 6           ch1, *[sc2tog, 1 sc into next 4 sts]* - 2x, join (10 sts)
Rnd 7           ch1, *[sc2tog, 1 sc into next 3 sts]* - 2x, join (8 sts)
Rnd 8           ch1, *[sc2tog, 1 sc into next 2 sts]* - 2x, join (6 sts)
Rnd 9           ch1, *[sc2tog, 1 sc into next 1 sts]* - 2x, join (4 sts) close the hole with a sl. st. and pull the yarn tail to the inside and weave it in, then use the long tail to sew the ears onto the hat.

Because we used small sized hook and single crochet, your ears should be on the stiffer side. You can put a little stuffing inside if you wish, although you do not need to. Use your judgment where to place your ears before sewing them onto the hat. If you are not very skilled at sewing use 3-4 sewing pins to hold the ears in place while sewing (do not prick your fingers/hands). Start with a right side of your hat facing you, insert the needle through the ear and hat, then draw the needle from inside out next to the edge of the ear - repeat all around the perimeter of the ear. Make sure you attach the other ear symmetrically. When finished weave in the tails/ends


Me, wearing the "Cat Hat"

Even my glasses fit over the eye opening :-)


If anyone of you finds any error - let me know where it is and what kind of mistake and will fix it by clicking HERE. Or PM me on my FB Page HERE. Txs!


************************************************************************


See my many videos on my YouTube Channel HERE (you can load more videos at the bottom of my channel page) 

Other Crocheted Items you may want to check out

Crocheted Boobies, a.k.a. Knockers (prosthetics)
Crocheted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Three Summer Crocheted Hats For Babies
Crocheted Spring Hat (youth/adult)
Crocheted Hat With Raised Design (Youth)
Chicken Placemat For Kids
Simple Crocheted Headband
Simple Crocheted Coasters

Knits you may enjoy checking out:


Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


Crocheted Bonnet For a Newborn Princess

Finally, my semester is over, holidays are over, New Year's is over, and I can knit and crochet again - yeeey. Although I do have art exhibitions coming up (yes I paint, draw, make sculptures too).

I love to make hats, and booties, and socks, and little gloves, and you name it, for newborns. I really like to make stuff for them. The are so cute, and precious, and cuddly that it is easy to think of some outfit to knit or crochet for them. A little bit of lovely yarn, one or two hours of free time, imagination, and you have a beautiful present.

Well, I make stuff for babies even if I do not have any baby to knit or crochet for at the moment. It will have to be donated, or gifted to someone that crosses my path :-)

This time I was inspired by a bonnet I saw on the internet. It was just a simple, minimalistic crocheted hat, and I decided to make similar, but with a lacy feel to it. I had an idea how this bonnet should look like. I found an elegant, repetitive pattern in one of my books, counted my stitches and "went to work."  I chose one of my pink yarns - about 1/2 ball of a leftover from some project I did a while back. I decided to crochet this hat as I was videotaping making it. 

But many of you love crocheting along with the pattern, right? Well, here it is, but if anyone of you finds a mistake - let me know where it is and what kind of mistake and will fix it. Deal?

This hat/bonnet crochets relatively fast. It has only 15 rows. Therefore it is quite an easy project. You need to know only basic stitches. There is a video on my YouTube channel for Right-handed and Left-handed crocheters, too. The video is very detailed, so if you think you can't do it - I think yes you can. Just follow me along the video, slow it down (I made a video how to slow it down - click HERE) or rewind and rewatch. Enjoy.


First, make "Base Part" (back of the hat) in the round (5 rows); then continue with "Lacy Part" back and forth (8 rows). Finish crocheting around the "Sides and the Nape Area."

So here we go:

Size:
Newborn, 0-3 months old baby (the height and width of the hat is 6" in flat position)

Materials:
1/2 ball of yarn that is light weight #3 (I used Snuggly Wuggly by Loops & Threads, pink color - but feel free to use any color and any yarn of your choice that is very similar to thickness of the one I used)
Hook size 4mm
Ribbon - a color that goes with your yarn
Scissors



I also made a bigger size with thicker yarn and bigger hook


Size:
3-6 months old baby (the height and width of the hat is 7" in flat position)

Materials:
about 3/4 of ball of yarn that is worsted weight #4 (I used Lion Brand, Vanna's Choice, silver blue color - but feel free to use any color and any yarn of your choice that is very similar to thickness of the one I used)
Hook size 6mm
Ribbon - a color that goes with your yarn
Scissors


Gauge:
My gauge is medium and comparable with manufacturers gauge


Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
join - join with a slip stitch
prev. - previous
yo - yarn over
cluster A (chain3+2-double-crochet puff stitch) - *yo, insert the hook in the stitch, yo, draw the yarn through the stitch, yo, and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook (one half-finished double crochet is complete)* - repeat from * to * 1 more times (3 loops are on your hook); yo and draw the yarn through all 3 loops on the hook, note: this cluster is worked only in the beginning of the row
cluster B (3-double-crochet puff stitch) - *yo, insert the hook in the stitch, yo, draw the yarn through the stitch, yo, and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook (one half-finished double crochet is complete)* - repeat from * to * 2 more times (4 loops are on your hook); yo and draw the yarn through all 4 loops on the hook
incl. - including
st, sts - stitch, stitches


Step-by-Step:

First make "Base Part" (back of the hat) in the round (5 rows); then continue with "Lacy Part" back and forth (8 rows). Finish crocheting around the "Sides and the Nape Area". There is a video in my YouTube channel for Right-handed and Left-handed crocheters.


BASE PART

Foundation:  create a magic circle and work in rounds

Rnd 1          into the magic circle - ch3, 9 dc, join (total ch3 + 9 dc sts)
Rnd 2          ch3, 1 dc in same st as the ch3, 2 dc in each consecutive stitch from prev row, join (total ch3 + 19 dc sts)
Rnd 3          ch3, 1 dc in same st as the ch3, 1 dc in next; then *[2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next]* - repeat from * to *, join (total ch3 + 29 dc sts)
Rnd 4          ch3, 1 dc in same st as the ch3, 1 dc in next 2 consecutive sts; then *[2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 consecutive sts]* - repeat from * to *, join (total ch3 + 39 dc sts)
Rnd 5          ch3, 1 dc in same st as the ch3, 1 dc in next 3 consecutive sts; then *[2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 consecutive sts]* - repeat from * to *, join (total ch3 + 49 dc sts)


LACY PART

We will work in rows, start counting your rows from "1".

Row 1          ch4, skip one st, 1 dc into next, ch1, *[1 dc into next, ch1]* - repeat from * to * 19 more times, finish with 1 dc in the last st (total ch3 + 21 dc sts), turn
Row 2          ch1, 1 sc in each st to end, turn
Row 3          ch4, 1 dc in the same st, ch2, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in 3rd st, *[ch2, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in 3rd st, ch2, 1 dc in same st, ch2, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in 3rd st]* - repeat from * to * 5 more times; then ch2, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in LAST st, ch1 (!), 1 dc in same last st; (you will have total 8 "V"s - two narrow "V"s on each end, and 6 regular "V"s in the middle), turn
Row 4           ch3, into first "V" make [cluster A, ch1, cluster B, ch1]; into next 6 consecutive "V"s work as such: *[cluster B, ch1,  cluster B, ch1, cluster B, ch1]* - repeat this sequence from * to * 6x; finish with cluster B, ch1, cluster B in the last (8th) "V"
Row 5           same as Row 1
Row 6           same as Row 2
Row 7           same as Row 3
Row 8           into first "V" make [cluster A, ch1, cluster B, ch1, cluster B, ch1]; into next 6 consecutive "V"s work as such: *[cluster B, ch1,  cluster B, ch1, cluster B, ch1, cluster B, ch1]* - repeat this sequence from * to * 6x; finish with cluster B, ch1, cluster B, ch1, cluster B in the last (8th) "V"

FINISHING BORDER

We will continue crocheting a border along the neck area. Hold your bonnet as if to continue around.

Row 1           ch1, then space sc sts along the edge as evenly as possible. I crochet along the first side of a lacy part 12 sc sts, then along the back of the nec, 9 sc sts, and according to my video 13 sc sts along the second side of the lacy part, turn
Row 2           *[skip 2 sts, into 3rd sts crochet 7 dc, skip 2, into third st make 1 sc]* - 2x, then 1 sc in next 10 consecutive sts, skip 2 sts, into 3rd sts crochet 7 dc, skip 2, into third st make 1 sc, skip 2 sts, into 3rd sts crochet 7 dc, skip 2, into third st make sl st, then make a knot and weave in all the ends.





If anyone of you finds any error - let me know where it is and what kind of mistake and will fix it by clicking
 HERE. Or PM me on my FB Page HERE. Txs!

************************************************************************

See my many videos on my YouTube Channel HERE (you can load more videos at the bottom of my channel page) 

Other Crocheted Items you may want to check out

Crocheted Boobies, a.k.a. Knockers (prosthetics)
Crocheted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Three Summer Crocheted Hats For Babies
Crocheted Spring Hat (youth/adult)
Crocheted Hat With Raised Design (Youth)
Chicken Placemat For Kids
Simple Crocheted Headband
Simple Crocheted Coasters

Knits you may enjoy checking out:


Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

Pink Simple Ankle Length Socks For Narrow Foot - Size US 6


Knitted simple socks with short row heel
Not too long ago I made a video and a free pattern for simple socks (= Emerald Isle Socks, for which you can click HERE for reference, including links for videos for left-handed and right-handed knitters). The "Emerald Socks" are for foot US size 7-8, and an average foot width. The yarn (Wildfoote, Luxury Sock Yarn) is a little thicker than the yarn I used for my pink variegated socks (self striping yarn), so I had to use one size bigger needles to knit them.

Today's post will be similar, but for a smaller foot (size US 6) and narrow foot. The socks are knitted with a short row heel and a tapered toe area, just like the "Emerald Socks." I worked with only one set of double pointed needles - 2.25mm, and slightly thinner yarn - Paton's Kroy Socks Yarn. If you do not like knitting with DPNs, you can use circular needles - but make sure you use markers.

I used only one ball of yarn, and I still have a leftover yarn. I am wondering if I could make one more pair for a newborn baby.
Since there is a little yarn left, I believe you could make your socks either wider, or slightly longer, or knit a bit longer ribbing for your socks. Enjoy.

FYI
Righties can learn how to do a short row heel in THIS VIDEO and a toe part in THIS VIDEO

Lefties can learn how to do a short row heel in THIS VIDEO and a toe part in THIS VIDEO


Materials:
  • 1 ball of Paton's Kroy Socks Yarn 75% Washable Wool/25% Nylon; 166 yds (152 m); 1.75 oz (50 gr), color "Brown Rose Marl"
  • Knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm) - pattern calls for double pointed, but you can use circular needles instead
  • Scissors
  • yarn needle (for thin yarn) to perform Kitchener stitch 

Gouge (stockinette stitch):
  • on knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm) - 1"x1" = 7 sts x 10 rows

Size:

These socks are approximately for ankles about 6" around and will stretch up to 6.5" around. Add 4 extra stitches to make socks about 0.75" wider. The length of these socks is 8.75", and can stretch a little too.
Note: For shorter socks knit lower number of rows between your finished heel and before you start knitting your toe area.
    Measurements of this sock



    Abbreviation:

    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    K2tog - knit two stitches together

    SSK - slip slip and then knit them together through the back loop

    RS - right side

    WS - wrong side
    
st(s) - stitch(es)

    Short row heels & a tapered toe area


    Step-by-Step Directions:

    Make 2.

    Foundation: CO loosely 48 stitches; or use 1 size bigger needles just to CO - that is 2.75 mm knitting needles

    The Cuff

    Row 1          *[K2, P2]* - then distribute the stitches evenly, among all 3-4 DPNs, without twisting your knitt join into a circle

    Row 2-20      *[K2, P2]* (or as many rows as you want)
    Row 21-28      K48

    Forming The Heel

    Before you start knitting 23th row move 24 stitches on the needle #1, 12 stitches on the needle #2 and 12 stitches on the needle #3. To form your heel you will work with 24 stitches (back and forth) on the needle #1 and you will use also a knitting needle #4, therefore you will work with two knitting needles, leaving needles #2 and #3 alone. You can also double your yarn for a stronger/thicker heel (= use a yarn from another skein)


    Row 29           (RS) keep knitting with single string yarn (OR double your yarn for thicker heel) , K8, pm, K8, pm, K7 (you knitted 23 sts), leave 24th stitch on your left needle and  turn your work to knit on WS
    (Note - your placed markers are there just to let you know when you will stop decreasing and start increasing, you just need to move them from needle to needle. If the markers would be in your way you don't have to use them)

    Row 30           (WS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front - sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P21 (to 1 st before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 31           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K20 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 32           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P19 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 33           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K18 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 34           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P17 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 35           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K16 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 36           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P15 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 37           (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K14 (to 5 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 38           (WS - now you have 5 sts on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P13 (to 5 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 39           (RS - now you have 5 st on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K12 (to 6 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 40           (WS - now you have 6 sts on the right needle and 18 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P11 (to 6 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 41           (RS - now you have 6 st on the right needle and 18 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K10 (to 7 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 42           (WS - now you have 7 sts on the right needle and 17 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P9 (to 7 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 43           (RS - now you have 7 st on the right needle and 16 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K8 (to 8 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 44           (WS - now you have 8 sts on the right needle and 16 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P7 (to 8 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side

    Now we will start adding stitches on both,  the right and wrong, sides back again

    Row 1           (RS - now you have 8 st on the right needle and 16 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K7 (to 8 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 16th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 17th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 17th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 2           (WS - now you have 7 sts on the right needle and 17 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P8 (to 8 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 16th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 17th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 17th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 3           (RS - now you have 7 st on the right needle and 17 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K9 (to 7 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 17th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 18th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 18th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 4           (WS - now you have 6 sts on the right needle and 18 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P10 (to 7 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 17th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 18th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 18th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 5           (RS - now you have 6 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K11 (to 6 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 18th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 19th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 19th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 6           (WS - now you have 5 sts on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P12 (to 6 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 18th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 19th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 19th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 7           (RS - now you have 5 st on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K13 (to 5 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 19th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 20th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 20th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 8           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P14 (to 5 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 19 stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 20th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 20th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 9           (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K15 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 20th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 21st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 21st st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 10           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P16 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 20th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 21st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 21st st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 11           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K17 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 21st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 22nd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 22nd st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 12           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P18 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 21st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 22nd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 22nd st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 13           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K19 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 22nd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 23rd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 23rd st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 14           (WS - now you have 1 sts on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P20 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 22nd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 23rd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 23rd st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 15           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K21 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 23rd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 24th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 24th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 16           (WS - now you have all 24 sts on one needle only) With yarn in front sl st first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P22 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch  - pick a horizontal strand between your 23rd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 24th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 24th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side

    The Foot Area

    From now on you will work on the right side in the round again

    Row 1            sl first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, K23; now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your 24th and 25th stitches front to back and knit the "added stitch" with 25th st together; K23

    Row 2           now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch (front to back) between your last knitted  and your 1st stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 1st st together, K47

    Row 3-60    K48

    Toe Area

    Row 1       *[K2tog, K20, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 2       K44
    Row 3       *[K2tog, K18, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 4       K40
    Row 5       *[K2tog, K16, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 6       K36
    Row 7       *[K2tog, K14, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 8       K32
    Row 9       *[K2tog, K12, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 10       K28
    Row 11       *[K2tog, K10, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 12       K24
    Row 13       *[K2tog, K8, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 14       K20

    Move stitches from a needle #2 onto needle #1 and stitches from a needle #3 onto needle #4. Use Kitchener stitches to seam two sets of live stitches (10 sts & 10 sts) invisibly. See my detailed video how to do the Kitchener stitch in my Emerald sock video 3/3. The link is at the top of this page, when you open the "Emerald Socks" post, click on Playlist for videos.

    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    *********************************************************

    See my many videos on my YouTube Channel HERE (you can load more videos at the bottom of my channel page)

    Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:

    Reversible Knitted Holiday Scarf
    "Summer Rain" Halter Top (M size)
    Cerulean Hat
    Poncho
    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)

    Cotton Fingerless Gloves For Dry And Chapped Hands

    After all leaves fall down and rustle under our feet and we notice that trees are all bare, suddenly, we realize that we have to face cold wintery air yet again. Our skin gets dry and chapped, especially on our hands. Sometimes our skin is so sensitive that the dry skin cracks. We need to keep it moisturized. One way to do it is to put cream on hands and then put cotton gloves on. And go to sleep. The treatment will help you keep moisturizer on all night long without getting on your sheets, where it doesn't belong.

    If you are handy you can knit yourself cotton fingerless gloves for a couple of dollars. All you need is your time and one or two balls of 100% cotton yarn, depending on the size of gloves you would like to make.
    The gloves in this post are made for a very small women hands. These gloves should fit snugly (I used K1/P1 ribbing for that purpose) so they do not slip off at night, and they should be long enough to go over knuckles, so they can get healed. The thumb should be long enough to cover a knuckle, too.

    Make them for yourself, make them for your children or your friend's children, make them for anyone who has a problem with chapped knuckles throughout the fall, winter and spring.

    You can knit along my FREE pattern (see below).
    YOu can knit along my video - if you are:

    1. Right-handed knitter CLICK HERE
    2. Left-handed knitter CLICK HERE

    AND SINCE COLD WEATHER IS HERE AND YOU MAY WANT TO KNIT OTHER TYPES OF MITTENS/GLOVES AS WELL - VISIT ALL FREE KNITTING "MITTENS PAGE" BY CLICKING HERE


    To knit these gloves you need to know how to:

    • cast on
    • do a knit stitch
    • do a purl stitch
    • increase stitches
    • bind off

    Abbreviations:
    DPN - double pointed needles
    CO - cast on
    st(s) - stitch(es)
    K - knit stitch
    P - purl stitch
    K2tog - knit two stitches together
    m1 - make one stitch (increase) by knitting into the stitch right below the next stitch (also so called "lifted increase")
    BO - bind off

    Materials used:
    2 balls of Lily, Sugar 'n Cream,  #4 weight, 2 oz/56.7g; 95 yds/86 m; 100% cotton
    Double pointed needles size #7 (4.5 mm)
    string of bulky yarn (for use as a stitch holder; note: do not use stitch holder as it cannot bend)
    Scissors
    Hook or yarn needle to weave ends in (your choice)

    Size:
    Adult, small size

    Gauge:
    3"x3" = 15 sts x 20 rows in 1/1 rib


    Step-by-Step Instructions:

    Make two gloves.

    THE HAND PART

    CO 30 sts on DPN
    Note: If you need to make them bigger CO extra stitches such as 34, 36, 38, 40, etc.  See my suggestion for the bigger thumb below.

    Row 1         *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * entire row, then transfer 20 sts onto two DPNs - 10 sts on one needle, 10 sts on another, and leaving 10 sts on previous (3rd) needle, then connect into circle without twisting
    Rnd 2-20     *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to *  to end in each row

    Note: now the K stitches + increases will be part of your thumb - for bigger hands/wider thumbs do not repeat Rows 24, 27 and 30 - instead skip them and repeat increasing rows, with one non-increasing row couple of times.

    Rnd 21         K3, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end
    Rnd 22         m1, K3, m1, *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 32 sts)
    Rnd 23         K5, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 32 sts)
    Rnd 24         K5, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 32 sts)
    Rnd 25         m1, K5, m1, *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 34 sts)
    Rnd 26         K7, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 34 sts)
    Rnd 27         K7, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 34 sts)
    Rnd 28         m1, K7, m1, *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 36 sts)
    Rnd 29         K9, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 36 sts)
    Rnd 30         K9, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 36 sts)

    Take the first 9 knit stitches and put them on a "holder" of made of a very thick yarn - this is your future thumb, which you will knit later. Note: I did not use holder in this case, I needed the knitted part to bend. Then join into a circle and continue knitting the "K1-P1" part.

    Rnd 31-48    *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to *  to end in each row
    Rnd 48         BO all st

    THE THUMB PART

    Move all your stitches from your "yarn holder" onto your DPNs - 3 sts on each needle (or more if you made 2-3 more increases). Pick an extra stitch between needle #3 and needle #1 - that will be your 10th stitch (or an extra stitch for bigger width thumb = with more stitches).

    Rnd 1-7         K10
    Rnd 8-10       *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to *  to end in each row
    Rnd 11          BO all sts

    Weave in all your ends/tails.

    Now all you need to do is apply the cream, put your fingerless gloves on and go to sleep. In the morning you will wake up with hands as soft as a baby.

    Enjoy.


    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    ************************************************************

    See my many videos on my YouTube Channel HERE (you can load more videos at the bottom of my channel page)

    Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:


    Reversible Knitted Holiday Scarf
    "Summer Rain" Halter Top (M size)
    Cerulean Hat
    Poncho
    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


    Reversible Knitted Holiday Scarf


    I love patterns for scarves that are reversible, because they look beautiful on both sides. The pattern that I am sharing with you today is just that - same on both sides. On top of being identical on both sides, it is also very easy to knit. It is perfect even for advanced (or talented) beginners. All you need to know is how to cast on, how to do a knit stitch, how to do a purl stitch and how to bind off. That is all. Easy. Simple. Beautiful. If you are a novice knitter try to knit a washcloth, a scarf or a shrug. If you are and adventurer use this pattern for a blanket.

    Knitters who would like to look at a quick visual video for reference (for lefties and righties), CLICK HERE to see my HandMade-Rukodelky Facebook Page - and then click on videos located in menu bar. Or here are direct links for this 4 minute visual videos: RIGHTIES CLICK HERE and LEFTIES CLICK HERE

    Knitters who would like to see video of a narrated long version of this project (which is uploaded on YouTube) click on either link below:

    RIGHTIES CLICK HERE
    LEFTIES CLICK HERE

    And lastly - my free written pattern is below.

    Note: If you knit for people you may sell your product made from any of my patterns, but please do not claim my pattern as yours. And all I ask you - please reference me. I work hard for all of you - without a pay, so play nice :-)
    Enjoy.

    Size:
    Make your own size

    Materials:
    Yarn: Use any yarn of your choice. I used 3 balls of Cascade Yarns, Bollicine, Holiday; a blend of 70% merino wool & 30% acrylic; color 22 - red; 50 gr/1.76 oz; 125m/136 yd.
    Knitting Needles: Use a size recommended by a manufacturer. I used US 7/4.50 mm

    Gauge (2k/2p ribbing with Cascade Yarns):
    38 sts = unstretched 6", stretched 9"
    Note: Thinner yarn will be narrower, thicker yarn will be wider

    Abbreviations:
    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    BO - bind of
    st, sts - stitch, stitches



    Step-by-Step:

    Foundation: 
    Cast On multiples of 4 sts (plus 2 sts - optional). I casted on 38 stitches - (9 x 4 sts) + 2 sts for edges (1 st for each edge). For wider items you'll need lot more stitches.
    Note: You can cast on ANY multiple of 4 stitches - use this pattern for shrugs or blankets too.

    Row 1-2          K3, *[P2, K2]* - repeat to last 3 sts, P3
    Row 3-4          K 38

    Repeat rows as many times as needed for desired length.

    Last Row - BO all stitches and weave in ends.

    Note: You see how easy this pattern is? Told you so.


    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    ************************************************************

    See my many videos on my YouTube Channel HERE (you can load more videos at the bottom of my channel page)

    Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:


    "Summer Rain" Halter Top (M size)
    Cerulean Hat
    Poncho
    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)

    "Summer Rain" Halter Top

    My family and I (understand my dear husband and daughter, and my 2 feisty Jack Russell Terriers Toyen and Yoda) visited beautiful Emerald Isle this Summer. Our family really needed it.
    I brought knitting with me - a halter top I started for my daughter in the winter that I never finished; plus a second project (a garter stitch baby overalls - simpler than the BABY JUMPER in my LATEST VIDEO I videotaped for both, righties and lefties) - just in case I wouldn't have anything else to do when everyone is relaxing after a walk around nearby towns on a hot day, or after time spent at the peaceful, but windy beach.

    When I was researching the area on "Google Maps", I noticed that there is a "Salty Sheep Yarn Shop" in Swansboro. On one of our local trips I my family and I drove to this town. My husband and daughter enjoyed sitting on a comfy couch while I browsed this yarn store on West Church Street. I totally enjoyed being surrounded by so many skeins of fabulous yarns, and of course, I had to spend few dollars there. Would you expect me to do otherwise? After all I supported our economy. But I will write about that later.

    After I came "home" from the store, I decided to finish the halter top. However,  I miscalculated the size of the top, so when I was finished, it fit me instead of my daughter. Now she has to wait for her tank top that I will knit from the yarn she picked at the "Salty Sheep Yarn Shop".
    And me? I have to do many sit ups, because my belly just doesn't look good while wearing this top.
    (FYI - I sucked my belly in as much as possible, so it looks good in the pictures 😂 ).

    Below is free pattern for the "Summer Rain" halter top. Enjoy. Happy knitting.





    Size:
    Medium - about 30" around the rib cage (below the chest), 15" top to bottom in the front, 5" top to bottom in the back.

    Materials:
    Yarn: Worsted (#4 weight) - I used 2 balls of Classic Elite Yarns, Verde Collection, Seedling, color 4575 - Summer Rain, 50 g, 110 yd, organic cotton, machine wash on cold gentle cycle
    Knitting Needles: 5.00 mm
    Hook: 3.50 mm

    Gauge (2k/2p ribbing):
    4" x 4" = 14 sts x 21 rows

    Abbreviations:
    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
    P2tog - purl 2 stitches together
    ssk - slip, slip, knit two stitches together
    BO - bind of
    ch - chain
    sc - single crochet
    st, sts - stitch, stitches


    Step-by-Step:

    BACK  PART

    Foundation - CO 60 sts
    For pattern work K2/P2 ribbing

    Row 1-30          work ribbing: *[K2, P2]* - repeat to end
    Row 31              BO all stitches.

    Note: For short halter top I knitted 30 rows, if you want your halter top longer add more rows (ie 40, or 50, or 60....)
    Leave a long tail for either sewing (or crocheting) both pieces together.


    FRONT  PART

    Foundation - use a very long tail to CO 60 sts (this long tail will be used for sewing or crocheting front and back together)

    Row 1-30           same as "BACK PART"

    Note: For short halter top back I knitted 30 rows, if you want your halter top longer add more rows  - your front rows must correspond with your back rows.

    Row 31              BO 2 sts, work ribbing to end (total 58 sts)
    Row 32              BO 2 sts, work ribbing to end (total 56 sts)
    Row 33              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 55 sts)
    Row 34              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 54 sts)
    Row 35              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 53 sts)
    Row 36              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 52 sts)

    Row 37              work ribbing
    Row 38              work ribbing
    Row 39              work ribbing
    Row 40              work ribbing
    Row 41              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 51 sts)
    Row 42              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 50  sts)

    Work Rows 37 through 42 - until you have 36 sts on your needle (you should end up with total 84 rows). Then BO all sts. Do not cut your yarn off - you will use your uncut yarn to finish your top.

    Note: For short "halter top" front I knitted 30 rows, then continued shaping the rest of the top. If you want your halter top longer add more rows  (ie 40, or 50, or 60....)

    Crochet or sew sides of both pieces together.


    FINISHING




    Starting at your corner, where is your last BO stitch (1), crochet about 70 chain sts as your foundation. Then skip one chain stitch and make 1 sc into each chain stitch - this will be your first strap (2). When you get back to your corner where you started, continue making sc sts all along the edge of the halter top - distribute stitches evenly (3), (4), (5). When you get to the next corner of your front piece, crochet again 70 chain sts (6), and again crochet 1 sc st into each chain st on the way back to the corner (7). Then continue crocheting 1 sc st into each st along the top edge of your front part (8) finishing at the start (1). Fasten off and weave in all the tails.


    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    ************************************************************

    See my many videos on my YouTube Channel HERE (you can load more videos at the bottom of my channel page)

    Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:


    Cerulean Hat
    Poncho
    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)