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This web site is dedicated to my professor Stacy Israel, who taught all her students about the importance of being creative, and not just a consumer.

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Pink Simple Ankle Length Socks For Narrow Foot - Size US 6


Knitted simple socks with short row heel
Not too long ago I made a video and a free pattern for simple socks (= Emerald Isle Socks, for which you can click HERE for reference, including links for videos for left-handed and right-handed knitters). The "Emerald Socks" are for foot US size 7-8, and an average foot width. The yarn (Wildfoote, Luxury Sock Yarn) is a little thicker than the yarn I used for my pink variegated socks (self striping yarn), so I had to use one size bigger needles to knit them.

Today's post will be similar, but for a smaller foot (size US 6) and narrow foot. The socks are knitted with a short row heel and a tapered toe area, just like the "Emerald Socks." I worked with only one set of double pointed needles - 2.25mm, and slightly thinner yarn - Paton's Kroy Socks Yarn. If you do not like knitting with DPNs, you can use circular needles - but make sure you use markers.

I used only one ball of yarn, and I still have a leftover yarn. I am wondering if I could make one more pair for a newborn baby.
Since there is a little yarn left, I believe you could make your socks either wider, or slightly longer, or knit a bit longer ribbing for your socks. Enjoy.

FYI
Righties can learn how to do a short row heel in THIS VIDEO and a toe part in THIS VIDEO

Lefties can learn how to do a short row heel in THIS VIDEO and a toe part in THIS VIDEO


Materials:
  • 1 ball of Paton's Kroy Socks Yarn 75% Washable Wool/25% Nylon; 166 yds (152 m); 1.75 oz (50 gr), color "Brown Rose Marl"
  • Knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm) - pattern calls for double pointed, but you can use circular needles instead
  • Scissors
  • yarn needle (for thin yarn) to perform Kitchener stitch 

Gouge (stockinette stitch):
  • on knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm) - 1"x1" = 7 sts x 10 rows

Size:

These socks are approximately for ankles about 6" around and will stretch up to 6.5" around. Add 4 extra stitches to make socks about 0.75" wider. The length of these socks is 8.75", and can stretch a little too.
Note: For shorter socks knit lower number of rows between your finished heel and before you start knitting your toe area.
    Measurements of this sock



    Abbreviation:

    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    K2tog - knit two stitches together

    SSK - slip slip and then knit them together through the back loop

    RS - right side

    WS - wrong side
    
st(s) - stitch(es)

    Short row heels & a tapered toe area


    Step-by-Step Directions:

    Make 2.

    Foundation: CO loosely 48 stitches; or use 1 size bigger needles just to CO - that is 2.75 mm knitting needles

    The Cuff

    Row 1          *[K2, P2]* - then distribute the stitches evenly, among all 3-4 DPNs, without twisting your knitt join into a circle

    Row 2-20      *[K2, P2]* (or as many rows as you want)
    Row 21-28      K48

    Forming The Heel

    Before you start knitting 23th row move 24 stitches on the needle #1, 12 stitches on the needle #2 and 12 stitches on the needle #3. To form your heel you will work with 24 stitches (back and forth) on the needle #1 and you will use also a knitting needle #4, therefore you will work with two knitting needles, leaving needles #2 and #3 alone. You can also double your yarn for a stronger/thicker heel (= use a yarn from another skein)


    Row 29           (RS) keep knitting with single string yarn (OR double your yarn for thicker heel) , K8, pm, K8, pm, K7 (you knitted 23 sts), leave 24th stitch on your left needle and  turn your work to knit on WS
    (Note - your placed markers are there just to let you know when you will stop decreasing and start increasing, you just need to move them from needle to needle. If the markers would be in your way you don't have to use them)

    Row 30           (WS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front - sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P21 (to 1 st before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 31           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K20 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 32           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P19 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 33           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K18 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 34           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P17 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 35           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K16 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 36           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P15 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 37           (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K14 (to 5 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 38           (WS - now you have 5 sts on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P13 (to 5 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 39           (RS - now you have 5 st on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K12 (to 6 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 40           (WS - now you have 6 sts on the right needle and 18 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P11 (to 6 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 41           (RS - now you have 6 st on the right needle and 18 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K10 (to 7 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 42           (WS - now you have 7 sts on the right needle and 17 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P9 (to 7 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 43           (RS - now you have 7 st on the right needle and 16 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K8 (to 8 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 44           (WS - now you have 8 sts on the right needle and 16 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P7 (to 8 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side

    Now we will start adding stitches on both,  the right and wrong, sides back again

    Row 1           (RS - now you have 8 st on the right needle and 16 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K7 (to 8 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 16th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 17th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 17th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 2           (WS - now you have 7 sts on the right needle and 17 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P8 (to 8 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 16th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 17th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 17th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 3           (RS - now you have 7 st on the right needle and 17 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K9 (to 7 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 17th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 18th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 18th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 4           (WS - now you have 6 sts on the right needle and 18 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P10 (to 7 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 17th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 18th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 18th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 5           (RS - now you have 6 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K11 (to 6 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 18th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 19th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 19th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 6           (WS - now you have 5 sts on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P12 (to 6 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 18th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 19th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 19th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 7           (RS - now you have 5 st on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K13 (to 5 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 19th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 20th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 20th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 8           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P14 (to 5 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 19 stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 20th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 20th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 9           (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K15 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 20th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 21st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 21st st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 10           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P16 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 20th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 21st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 21st st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 11           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K17 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 21st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 22nd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 22nd st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 12           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P18 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 21st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 22nd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 22nd st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 13           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K19 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 22nd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 23rd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 23rd st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 14           (WS - now you have 1 sts on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P20 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 22nd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 23rd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 23rd st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 15           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K21 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 23rd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 24th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 24th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 16           (WS - now you have all 24 sts on one needle only) With yarn in front sl st first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P22 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch  - pick a horizontal strand between your 23rd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 24th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 24th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side

    The Foot Area

    From now on you will work on the right side in the round again

    Row 1            sl first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, K23; now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your 24th and 25th stitches front to back and knit the "added stitch" with 25th st together; K23

    Row 2           now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch (front to back) between your last knitted  and your 1st stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 1st st together, K47

    Row 3-60    K48

    Toe Area

    Row 1       *[K2tog, K20, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 2       K44
    Row 3       *[K2tog, K18, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 4       K40
    Row 5       *[K2tog, K16, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 6       K36
    Row 7       *[K2tog, K14, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 8       K32
    Row 9       *[K2tog, K12, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 10       K28
    Row 11       *[K2tog, K10, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 12       K24
    Row 13       *[K2tog, K8, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 14       K20

    Move stitches from a needle #2 onto needle #1 and stitches from a needle #3 onto needle #4. Use Kitchener stitches to seam two sets of live stitches (10 sts & 10 sts) invisibly. See my detailed video how to do the Kitchener stitch in my Emerald sock video 3/3. The link is at the top of this page, when you open the "Emerald Socks" post, click on Playlist for videos.

    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    ******************************************

    Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:

    Reversible Knitted Holiday Scarf
    "Summer Rain" Halter Top (M size)
    Cerulean Hat
    Poncho
    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)

    Cotton Fingerless Gloves For Dry And Chapped Hands

    After all leaves fall down and rustle under our feet and we notice that trees are all bare, suddenly, we realize that we have to face cold wintery air yet again. Our skin gets dry and chapped, especially on our hands. Sometimes our skin is so sensitive that the dry skin cracks. We need to keep it moisturized. One way to do it is to put cream on hands and then put cotton gloves on. And go to sleep. The treatment will help you keep moisturizer on all night long without getting on your sheets, where it doesn't belong.

    If you are handy you can knit yourself cotton fingerless gloves for a couple of dollars. All you need is your time and one or two balls of 100% cotton yarn, depending on the size of gloves you would like to make.
    The gloves in this post are made for a very small women hands. These gloves should fit snugly (I used K1/P1 ribbing for that purpose) so they do not slip off at night, and they should be long enough to go over knuckles, so they can get healed. The thumb should be long enough to cover a knuckle, too.

    Make them for yourself, make them for your children or your friend's children, make them for anyone who has a problem with chapped knuckles throughout the fall, winter and spring.

    You can knit along my FREE pattern (see below).
    YOu can knit along my video - if you are:

    1. Right-handed knitter CLICK HERE
    2. Left-handed knitter CLICK HERE

    AND SINCE COLD WEATHER IS HERE AND YOU MAY WANT TO KNIT OTHER TYPES OF MITTENS/GLOVES AS WELL - VISIT ALL FREE KNITTING "MITTENS PAGE" BY CLICKING HERE


    To knit these gloves you need to know how to:

    • cast on
    • do a knit stitch
    • do a purl stitch
    • increase stitches
    • bind off

    Abbreviations:
    DPN - double pointed needles
    CO - cast on
    st(s) - stitch(es)
    K - knit stitch
    P - purl stitch
    K2tog - knit two stitches together
    m1 - make one stitch (increase) by knitting into the stitch right below the next stitch (also so called "lifted increase")
    BO - bind off

    Materials used:
    2 balls of Lily, Sugar 'n Cream,  #4 weight, 2 oz/56.7g; 95 yds/86 m; 100% cotton
    Double pointed needles size #7 (4.5 mm)
    string of bulky yarn (for use as a stitch holder; note: do not use stitch holder as it cannot bend)
    Scissors
    Hook or yarn needle to weave ends in (your choice)

    Size:
    Adult, small size

    Gauge:
    3"x3" = 15 sts x 20 rows in 1/1 rib


    Step-by-Step Instructions:

    Make two gloves.

    THE HAND PART

    CO 30 sts on DPN
    Note: If you need to make them bigger CO extra stitches such as 34, 36, 38, 40, etc.  See my suggestion for the bigger thumb below.

    Row 1         *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * entire row, then transfer 20 sts onto two DPNs - 10 sts on one needle, 10 sts on another, and leaving 10 sts on previous (3rd) needle, then connect into circle without twisting
    Rnd 2-20     *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to *  to end in each row

    Note: now the K stitches + increases will be part of your thumb - for bigger hands/wider thumbs do not repeat Rows 24, 27 and 30 - instead skip them and repeat increasing rows, with one non-increasing row couple of times.

    Rnd 21         K3, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end
    Rnd 22         m1, K3, m1, *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 32 sts)
    Rnd 23         K5, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 32 sts)
    Rnd 24         K5, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 32 sts)
    Rnd 25         m1, K5, m1, *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 34 sts)
    Rnd 26         K7, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 34 sts)
    Rnd 27         K7, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 34 sts)
    Rnd 28         m1, K7, m1, *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 36 sts)
    Rnd 29         K9, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 36 sts)
    Rnd 30         K9, P1,  *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to * to end (total 36 sts)

    Take the first 9 knit stitches and put them on a "holder" of made of a very thick yarn - this is your future thumb, which you will knit later. Note: I did not use holder in this case, I needed the knitted part to bend. Then join into a circle and continue knitting the "K1-P1" part.

    Rnd 31-48    *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to *  to end in each row
    Rnd 48         BO all st

    THE THUMB PART

    Move all your stitches from your "yarn holder" onto your DPNs - 3 sts on each needle (or more if you made 2-3 more increases). Pick an extra stitch between needle #3 and needle #1 - that will be your 10th stitch (or an extra stitch for bigger width thumb = with more stitches).

    Rnd 1-7         K10
    Rnd 8-10       *[K1, P1]* - repeat from * to *  to end in each row
    Rnd 11          BO all sts

    Weave in all your ends/tails.

    Now all you need to do is apply the cream, put your fingerless gloves on and go to sleep. In the morning you will wake up with hands as soft as a baby.

    Enjoy.


    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    ******************************************

    Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:


    Reversible Knitted Holiday Scarf
    "Summer Rain" Halter Top (M size)
    Cerulean Hat
    Poncho
    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


    Reversible Knitted Holiday Scarf


    I love patterns for scarves that are reversible, because they look beautiful on both sides. The pattern that I am sharing with you today is just that - same on both sides. On top of being identical on both sides, it is also very easy to knit. It is perfect even for advanced (or talented) beginners. All you need to know is how to cast on, how to do a knit stitch, how to do a purl stitch and how to bind off. That is all. Easy. Simple. Beautiful. If you are a novice knitter try to knit a washcloth, a scarf or a shrug. If you are and adventurer use this pattern for a blanket.

    Knitters who would like to look at a quick visual video for reference (for lefties and righties), CLICK HERE to see my HandMade-Rukodelky Facebook Page - and then click on videos located in menu bar. Or here are direct links for this 4 minute visual videos: RIGHTIES CLICK HERE and LEFTIES CLICK HERE

    Knitters who would like to see video of a narrated long version of this project (which is uploaded on YouTube) click on either link below:

    RIGHTIES CLICK HERE
    LEFTIES CLICK HERE

    And lastly - my free written pattern is below.

    Note: If you knit for people you may sell your product made from any of my patterns, but please do not claim my pattern as yours. And all I ask you - please reference me. I work hard for all of you - without a pay, so play nice :-)
    Enjoy.

    Size:
    Make your own size

    Materials:
    Yarn: Use any yarn of your choice. I used 3 balls of Cascade Yarns, Bollicine, Holiday; a blend of 70% merino wool & 30% acrylic; color 22 - red; 50 gr/1.76 oz; 125m/136 yd.
    Knitting Needles: Use a size recommended by a manufacturer. I used US 7/4.50 mm

    Gauge (2k/2p ribbing with Cascade Yarns):
    38 sts = unstretched 6", stretched 9"
    Note: Thinner yarn will be narrower, thicker yarn will be wider

    Abbreviations:
    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    BO - bind of
    st, sts - stitch, stitches



    Step-by-Step:

    Foundation: 
    Cast On multiples of 4 sts (plus 2 sts - optional). I casted on 38 stitches - (9 x 4 sts) + 2 sts for edges (1 st for each edge). For wider items you'll need lot more stitches.
    Note: You can cast on ANY multiple of 4 stitches - use this pattern for shrugs or blankets too.

    Row 1-2          K3, *[P2, K2]* - repeat to last 3 sts, P3
    Row 3-4          K 38

    Repeat rows as many times as needed for desired length.

    Last Row - BO all stitches and weave in ends.

    Note: You see how easy this pattern is? Told you so.


    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    ******************************************

    Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:


    "Summer Rain" Halter Top (M size)
    Cerulean Hat
    Poncho
    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)

    "Summer Rain" Halter Top

    My family and I (understand my dear husband and daughter, and my 2 feisty Jack Russell Terriers Toyen and Yoda) visited beautiful Emerald Isle this Summer. Our family really needed it.
    I brought knitting with me - a halter top I started for my daughter in the winter that I never finished; plus a second project (a garter stitch baby overalls - simpler than the BABY JUMPER in my LATEST VIDEO I videotaped for both, righties and lefties) - just in case I wouldn't have anything else to do when everyone is relaxing after a walk around nearby towns on a hot day, or after time spent at the peaceful, but windy beach.

    When I was researching the area on "Google Maps", I noticed that there is a "Salty Sheep Yarn Shop" in Swansboro. On one of our local trips I my family and I drove to this town. My husband and daughter enjoyed sitting on a comfy couch while I browsed this yarn store on West Church Street. I totally enjoyed being surrounded by so many skeins of fabulous yarns, and of course, I had to spend few dollars there. Would you expect me to do otherwise? After all I supported our economy. But I will write about that later.

    After I came "home" from the store, I decided to finish the halter top. However,  I miscalculated the size of the top, so when I was finished, it fit me instead of my daughter. Now she has to wait for her tank top that I will knit from the yarn she picked at the "Salty Sheep Yarn Shop".
    And me? I have to do many sit ups, because my belly just doesn't look good while wearing this top.
    (FYI - I sucked my belly in as much as possible, so it looks good in the pictures 😂 ).

    Below is free pattern for the "Summer Rain" halter top. Enjoy. Happy knitting.




    Size:
    Medium - about 30" around the rib cage (below the chest), 15" top to bottom in the front, 5" top to bottom in the back.

    Materials:
    Yarn: Worsted (#4 weight) - I used 2 balls of Classic Elite Yarns, Verde Collection, Seedling, color 4575 - Summer Rain, 50 g, 110 yd, organic cotton, machine wash on cold gentle cycle
    Knitting Needles: 5.00 mm
    Hook: 3.50 mm

    Gauge (2k/2p ribbing):
    4" x 4" = 14 sts x 21 rows

    Abbreviations:
    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
    P2tog - purl 2 stitches together
    ssk - slip, slip, knit two stitches together
    BO - bind of
    ch - chain
    sc - single crochet
    st, sts - stitch, stitches


    Step-by-Step:

    BACK  PART

    Foundation - CO 60 sts
    For pattern work K2/P2 ribbing

    Row 1-30          work ribbing: *[K2, P2]* - repeat to end
    Row 31              BO all stitches.

    Note: For short halter top I knitted 30 rows, if you want your halter top longer add more rows (ie 40, or 50, or 60....)
    Leave a long tail for either sewing (or crocheting) both pieces together.


    FRONT  PART

    Foundation - use a very long tail to CO 60 sts (this long tail will be used for sewing or crocheting front and back together)

    Row 1-30           same as "BACK PART"

    Note: For short halter top back I knitted 30 rows, if you want your halter top longer add more rows  - your front rows must correspond with your back rows.

    Row 31              BO 2 sts, work ribbing to end (total 58 sts)
    Row 32              BO 2 sts, work ribbing to end (total 56 sts)
    Row 33              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 55 sts)
    Row 34              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 54 sts)
    Row 35              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 53 sts)
    Row 36              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 52 sts)

    Row 37              work ribbing
    Row 38              work ribbing
    Row 39              work ribbing
    Row 40              work ribbing
    Row 41              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 51 sts)
    Row 42              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 50  sts)

    Work Rows 37 through 42 - until you have 36 sts on your needle (you should end up with total 84 rows). Then BO all sts. Do not cut your yarn off - you will use your uncut yarn to finish your top.

    Note: For short "halter top" front I knitted 30 rows, then continued shaping the rest of the top. If you want your halter top longer add more rows  (ie 40, or 50, or 60....)

    Crochet or sew sides of both pieces together.


    FINISHING



    Starting at your corner, where is your last BO stitch (1), crochet about 70 chain sts as your foundation. Then skip one chain stitch and make 1 sc into each chain stitch - this will be your first strap (2). When you get back to your corner where you started, continue making sc sts all along the edge of the halter top - distribute stitches evenly (3), (4), (5). When you get to the next corner of your front piece, crochet again 70 chain sts (6), and again crochet 1 sc st into each chain st on the way back to the corner (7). Then continue crocheting 1 sc st into each st along the top edge of your front part (8) finishing at the start (1). Fasten off and weave in all the tails.


    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    ******************************************

    Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:


    Cerulean Hat
    Poncho
    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)

    Crocheted Boobies a.k.a. Knockers

    Crocheted boobies/prostetics
    I have seen many articles on the Internet with knitted and crocheted boobies - in other words breast prosthetics. There are many ladies in the world that have to have their breast(s) removed, but either they cannot afford a reconstructive surgery or they just do not want one. Breast prosthetics is one way to solve the boobie situation.

    As a daughter of a mother who had mastectomy and later died from a cancer, I decided to make a video of crocheted boobie/prosthetic. This is one way to give my fellow crocheters a tool, which means a free pattern, so they can help their friends, family members, or any organization of their choice. 

    See the free pattern further down below, OR if you would like to watch video instead, see 2 links just below:

    Material:
    Any WORSTED yarn  (#4 weight) (such as Impeccable or Vanna's Choice); 2 different colors = for example pink and light brown
    Hook - 4 mm
    polyfill
    Scissors
    Yarn needle

    Gauge (double crochet stitches):
    1"x1" = 4 st x 2 rows

    Size:
    approximately "C" cup

    Abbreviations:

    ch - chain
    dc - double crochet
    hdc - half double crochet
    join - join with a slip stitch
    prev. - previous
    incl. - including
    2dctog - 2 double crochet stitches together (decrease)
    2hdctog - 2 half double crochet stitches together (decrease)
    MC - main color (in my case pink)
    CC - complimentary color (in my case light brown)
    st, sts - stitch, stitches


    Step-by-Step:

    Make 1 or 2 boobies

    BASE PART

    Foundation: with CC create a magic circle

    Row 1          into the magic circle - ch3, 12 dc, join (total ch3 + 12 sts)
    Row 2          ch3, 2 dc in each consecutive stitch from prev row, join (total ch3 + 24 sts)
    Row 3          ch3, *[1 dc in first st, 2 dc in second]* - repeat from * to *, join (total ch3 + 36 sts)
    Row 4          ch3, *[2 dc into first st, 1 dc in each of 2 consecutive sts]* - repeat from * to *, join (total ch3 + 48 sts)


    TOP PART

    Foundation: with MC crochet 48 chain sts, join (do not twist!!)

    Row 1          ch3, 1 dc into each chain sts, starting in the ch3, join (total  ch3 + 48 sts)
    Row 2          ch3, *[1 dc in in each of 6 consecutive sts, 2 dctog]* - repeat from * to *, join (total ch3 + 42 sts)
    Row 3          ch3, 1 dc in in each of 42 consecutive sts, join (total ch3 + 42 sts)
    Row 4          ch3, *[2dctog, 1 dc in each of 2 consecutive sts]* - repeat from * to * until last 2 sts, then 2dctog, join (total ch3 + 31 sts)
    Row 5          ch3, *[1 dc, 2dctog]* - repeat from * to * until last st, then 1 dc, join (total ch3 + 21)

    Continue with CC

    Row 6          ch1, *[2hdctog]* - repeat from * to * until last st, then make one more 2hdctog into last AND the base of first st, join (total ch1 + 11 sts)
    Row 7          ch1, *[2hdctog]* - repeat from * to * 5x total, join (total ch1 + 5 sts)
    Row 8          ch1, 1 sc st in each of 5 consecutive st, join

    First weave in all the tails of both pieces. Then crochet or sew both pieces together 3/4 way. Fill it with polyfill and finish crocheting or sewing it. Weave in your last tail(s).

    If you would like to make a smaller "B" cup size - use DK yarn (#3 weight) - see smaller boobies in the image below.

    "C" cup prosthetics in the top part of the image
    & difference between "B" cup and "C" cup in the lower part of the image 

    ************************************************************************

    Other Crocheted Items you may want to check out

    Crocheted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Three Summer Crocheted Hats For Babies
    Crocheted Spring Hat (youth/adult)
    Crocheted Hat With Raised Design (Youth)
    Chicken Placemat For Kids
    Simple Crocheted Headband
    Simple Crocheted Coasters

    Knits you may enjoy checking out:


    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    Knitting Project - Baby Jumper

    Baby Jumper - knitting a leg part (see video tutorial)
    I have been working on several projects at the same time. Recently I finished my three video tutorials for each -  right-handed and left handed crocheters:

    Click on the links above to see these videos OR click on the these 2 links to see my "Granny Squares Video Playlist - 4 righties"  or "Granny Squares Video Playlist - 4 lefties" with several granny squares videos that I posted in my YouTube Channel.

    Today I would like to tell you about my newest video (for lefties and righties) that I just posted on YouTube. This video will teach you a new pattern for a baby jumper and how to start knitting a leg part. So, if you are an advanced knitter and you have or know a baby that is three months old you may want to watch this video and perhaps knit along. I am demonstrating my knitting in both - Continental and English style ways.

    Here are links to my compiled videos in PLAYLIST:

    RIGHTIES, CLICK HERE, PLEASE

    LEFTIES, CLICK HERE, PLEASE


    And lastly - as I am working on the "baby jumper video",  I am also filming "how to crochet girl's summer dress", "how to knit bralette like blouse" and "a very simple brioche baby hat" as well. Plus I would like to "turn my crocheted Victorian Granny Squares into a long vest".

    So, stay tuned for more videos that you can knit or crochet along with me. Thank you for your support and happy knitting and crocheting.


    32B - Bralette

    Sandy Beach Bralette - video tutorial
    At the end of winter I asked my daughter: "What should I crochet for my video next?"
    She respond it: "A bralette".
    "What is a bralette?" I asked her. 
    She responded: "Google it."

    Well, when I googled it realized it is just a bra with the little bit of "fabric" around the body. Basically a bra for the beach.
    I liked her idea very much. 

    I looked at several images on the Internet to get some inspiration. The cups are usually done in a very similar style. So I sort of "copied" the cups for my bra that other people made. But I wanted to make the rest of the bra that is a little bit different than everybody else's. Yet I wanted to make it as simple as possible for my video. I went through my pattern books. Slept on it. Made few sketches. Did some math. 

    Then I got to work - and I got very involved when I was videotaping it. I  made this Bralette as I was crocheting and videotaping it - kind of like a free form crochet - combination of my ideas penned on the paper and ideas from my head. If you want to make bralette and would like to crochet along my video, click on THIS LINK FOR IF YOU ARE A RIGHTIE, or you can click on THIS LINK IF YOU ARE A LEFTIE. It will keep you very cool in the summer. Maybe you will even make yourself a bottom and a skirt to go with it.

    I didn't write the entire pattern - only for the bra cup part (see below).

    If any one of my readers would like to write the "body part" down according to my video (as I am very busy and no time to do it) - I will give you a credit on my blog with a link to your blog (if you have one) or your Etsy store (if you have one) or credit your name - your choice.

    Send me a message via my FB or via Google Plus


    BRA CUP PATTERN ONLY

    Material:
    Any cotton/linen DK yarn  (#3 weight)
    Hook #C - 2.75mm
    Scissors

    Gauge (half double crochet stitches):
    1"x1" = 5 st x 3 rows

    Size:
    32B cup


    Step-by-Step:

    Make 2.
    Foundation: crochet 14 chain stitches

    Row 1          make 1 hdc into 3rd chain stitch; then 1 hdc into each of 10 stitches; make (2 hdc, ch1, 2hdc) into 12th stitch; make 1 hdc into each of 11 stitches on the other (opposite) side of the chain; turn
    Row 2          make 1 hdc into each of next 13 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 13 stitches on the opposite side; turn
    Row 3          make 1 hdc into each of next 15 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 15 stitches on the opposite side; turn
    Row 4          make 1 hdc into each of next 17 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 17 stitches on the opposite side; turn
    Row 5          make 1 hdc into each of next 19 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 19 stitches on the opposite side; turn
    Row 6          make 1 hdc into each of next 21 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 21 stitches on the opposite side; turn
    Row 7          make 1 hdc into each of next 23 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 23 stitches on the opposite side; turn
    Row 8          make 1 hdc into each of next 25 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 25 stitches on the opposite side; turn
    Row 9          make 1 hdc into each of next 27 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 27 stitches on the opposite side; turn
    Row 10         make 1 hdc into each of next 29 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 29 stitches on the opposite side


    Crocheted Autumn Boots - Soles Up - Size 8-9

     New England in the Fall is enchanting. For about three weeks when leaves are changing and before they all fall to the ground it is an enormous pleasure to drive on any road. Anywhere you turn there is another gorgeously colored tree... Who would not like many shades of orange color, weaved in with yellows, evergreen greens, oak browns and maple reds. Thus the color choice for my "Autumn Boots".

    For this project I chose an acrylic yarn, which is mostly used for afghans. See the free pattern below, and if you cannot follow the pattern you can follow my videos:






    NOTE: I didn't check for any errors due to lack of time - if you find any, PLEASE LET ME KNOW SO I CAN FIX IT. It will be much appreciated. THANK YOU.

    Materials:
    Yarn - 3 skeins (1 brown = CC, 1 orange = MC) +Loops&Threads , Impeccable; medium weight #4; 268 yds (245 m);
    Crochet Hook - G (4 mm)
    scissors
    sewing/yarn needle for weaving the ends in

    Abbreviations:
    MC - main color
    CC - complimentary color
    pm - place marker
    ch - chain
    sc - single crochet
    dc - double crochet
    hdc - half double crochet
    dc incr - 2 double crochet sts in the same stitch
    sc2tog - 2 single crochet together
    dc2tog - 2 double crochets together
    dc3tog - 3 double crochets together
    hdc3tog - 3 half double crochet together
    join - join into 3rd chain with slip stitch

    Size:
    Women's Size 8/9
    the length of the espadrilles is 10", the widest part is 4.5"



    Step-by-Step:

    Make 2 boots

    Soles: make 2 for each boot (total 4 soles)

    color CC (brown)

    Foundation: ch20 with CC

    Rnd 1         ch3, 3 dc into 4th chain st from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch sts, 7 dc into next st; next crochet 1 dc in the next 18 sts on the opposite side of initial foundation chain, 3 dc in next st, join (total 50 sts)

    Rnd 2         (crochet in rounds) ch 3, 1 dc, dc incr, 1 dc, dc incr, 1 dc in next 16 sts, dc incr, 1 dc, dc incr - 5x, 1 dc, dc incr, 1 dc in next 16 sts, dc incr, 1 dc, dc incr, 1 dc, 1 dc into same st as ch3, join (total 62 sts)

    Rnd 3          ch3,  dc incr,  1 dc, dc incr,  1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, *[dc incr,  1 dc]* - 3x; dc incr -2x,  *[1 dc, dc incr]* - 3x;  1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, 1 dc in next 3 sts, dc incr, 1 dc, dc incr - 2x, 1 dc into same st as ch3,  join (total 76 sts)

    Rnd 4         ch3, *[dc incr, 1 dc]* - 2x; 4 dc (1 in each sts), 15 hdc (1 in each sts), 4 dc (1 in each sts), *[dc incr,  1 dc]* - 4x;  2 dc (1 in each sts), *[1 dc, dc incr]* - 4x, 4 dc (1 in each sts), 15 hdc (1 in each sts), 4 dc (1 in each sts), *[1 dc, dc incr]* - 2x; 3 dc (1 in each sts),  join (total 88 sts)
    join

    Slip stitch two soles together - this will be a base for your boot:

    1. Place 2 soles with wrong side toward of each other, both right sides exposed
    2. Line up the stitches so they correspond with the middle
    3. With the same yarn from last finished sole and facing you, insert your hook through two stitches (that are above each other) of both soles, pull yarn through and make a slip stitch, then insert the hook through two stitches of both soles and pull yarn through and make another sl st - repeat all around the perimeter 
    Note: you should have 88 slip stitches


    Turn your work as to crochet in the opposite direction & crochet the boot part


    Rnd 1           (MC) ch1, 85 sc, sc2tog, join (total 86 sc sts)
    Rnd 2           (CC) ch1, 38 sc, sc2tog - 5x, 38 sc,  join (total 81 sc sts)

    Note: from now on work with MC

    Rnd 3            ch1, 30 sc, 5 hdc, 2 sc tog - 5x, 5 hdc, 30 sc, 2sctog, join (total 76 sts)
    Rnd 4            ch1, 27 sc, 5 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 6 hdc, 27 sc, join (total 69 sts)
    Rnd 5            ch1, 24 sc, 5 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 5 hdc, 24 sc, join (total 64 sts)
    Rnd 6            ch1, 22 sc, 5 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 5 hdc, 22 sc, join (total 59 sts)
    Rnd 7            ch1, 18 sc, 7 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 7 hdc, 18 sc, join (total 54 sts)
    Rnd 8            ch1, 15 sc, 7 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 7 hdc, 15 sc, join (total 49 sts)
    Rnd 9            ch1, 12 sc, 6 hdc, 2 hdc tog, 2 dc tog - 5x, 2 hdc tog, 6 hdc, 12 sc, join (total 43 sts)
    Rnd 10          ch1, 15 sc, 4 hdc, 2 hdc tog - 3x, 4 hdc, 15 sc, join (total 41 sts)
    Rnd 11          ch1, 18 sc, 5 hdc, 18 sc, join (total 41 sts)

    Use one or any combination of these four designs to build up the height of your boot - remember (or write down) the order of your designs, so you could crochet them in exactly same order on your second boot:

    Design 1
    Rnd 1          turn to work in the opposite direction (WS): ch2, 41 hdc, join (total 41 sts)
    Rnd 2          turn to work in the opposite direction (RS): ch1, 41 extended sc, join (total 41 sts)

    Design 2
    Row 1         work on the RS: ch1, 41 sc, join
    Row 2         turn to work in the opposite direction (WS): ch1, 41 sc, join (total 41 sts)
    Row 3         keep working on the WS: ch2, 41 hdc, join

    Design 3
    Row 1         work on the RS: ch1, 41 sc, join
    Row 2         turn to work in the opposite direction (WS): ch1, ch2, 41 hdc, join (total 41 sts)

    Design 4
    Row 1         work on the RS: ch2, 41 hdc, join
    Row 2         work on the RS: ch2, 41 hdc, join
    Row 3         turn to work in the opposite direction (WS): ch2, 41 hdc, join (total 41 sts)

    Last two rows of boot - work with CC:

    Row 1         work on the RS: ch1, 41 sc, join
    Row 2         work on the RS: *[crochet 7 dc into 3rd, sl st into 3rd st]* - 7x; join - weave in all your ends

    Straps - make either a long strap OR 2 short ones and 2 longer ones

    Long Strap
    With MC make as many chain sts as needed to wrap 2 times around the body of the boot. Starting at the 4th ch st make 1 dc into each chain st. When finished crochet around with back sc st using CC.

    OR

    Short Straps (make 2):
    Foundation - ch23

    Row 1          (MC) RS - 1 hdc into third st, 20 hdc, turn
    Row 2-3       (MC) WS - ch2, 20 hdc, turn
    Row 4           (CC) RS - ch1, crochet along the long side: 19 sc, 3 sc into 20th st (corner); crochet along the short side: 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc; continue working along the other long side: 3 sc into corner st, 20 sc
    Row 5           (CC) RS - do not turn: work 21 back sc sts; turn - working on WS make 7 dc into 2ch st from prev row, turn;  work on RS 21 back sc sts
      
    Longer Straps (make 2):
    Foundation - ch26

    Row 1          (MC) RS - 1 hdc into third st, 23 hdc, turn
    Row 2-3       (MC) WS - ch2, 23 hdc, turn
    Row 4           (CC) RS - ch1, crochet along the long side: 33 sc, 3 sc into 20th st (corner); crochet along the short side: 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc; continue working along the other long side: 3 sc into corner st, 23 sc
    Row 5           (CC) RS - do not turn: work 24 back sc sts; turn - working on WS make 7 dc into 2ch st from prev row, turn;  work on RS 24 back sc sts

    Finishing:

    Wrap around With the RS facing you, sew the short straps on the inside of the boot right below the fan, then sew the longer one right below the short strap. Sew on buttons. Do the same for the other boot. Weave in the rest ot the ends.


    **************************************************************

    To SUBSCRIBE To My Video Channel and scroll through many videos

    Click HERE

    Other Crocheted Items you may want to check out

    Crocheted Hat for AGD Or Preemie Baby - Be My Valentine
    Crocheted Slippers (adult)
    Crocheted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Three Summer Crocheted Hats For Babies
    Crocheted Spring Hat (youth/adult)
    Crocheted Hat With Raised Design (Youth)
    Chicken Placemat For Kids
    Simple Crocheted Headband
    Simple Crocheted Coasters

    Knits you may enjoy checking out:


    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

    "Jaded" Diaper Cover For Newborn Boys - Easy Project

    Just an idea how diaper cover may look like
    with small "manly" buttons
    In the past I have knitted couple of diaper covers/soakers. One such diaper cover can be found HERE (including a video) and the other can be found HERE. Both include a free written pattern.

    But today, I would like to share with all of my crochet virtual friends another free written pattern - my newest (and fairly easy) diaper cover project (plus two videos - one for right-handed and one for left-handed crochet artisans).

    As you see, I worked with a yarn in the color that resembles a stone Jade, which is an emperor's gem. I love the idea that it represents benevolence, honesty, wisdom, integrity and bravery - great iconographics about it HERE - which is actually quite interesting. I would like to mention also that the yarn is soft and I love the fact that it is a blend of two natural fibers - cotton and merino wool.

    This pattern is textured, yet simple enough for someone that is seasoned beginner. My video will help those that are slightly inexperienced but have courage to push themselves a little further. As for the experienced ones - it is a very easy and fast project.

    You can make it in any color to accommodate both genders. You could also "play" with two colors to make it even more interesting, such as crochet around with an off white yarn. This pattern could be unisex - if you make it in a different color with a different style edging - even girls could wear it.






    Size:
    Newborn

    Measurements:
    Waist - 14.5” (buttons can be moved to accommodate a larger waist)
    Rise - 14” (measured from the top of the diaper in front all the way to the top of the diaper in back)


    Material:
    Brown Sheep Co., Cotton Fleece, Color "Jubilant Jade", 215 yds/197 m, 80% cotton/20% Merino
    Hook size G (4 mm)
    Small Buttons
    Scissors
    Yarn Needle
    Sewing Needle




    Abbreviations:
    ch - chain
    hdc - single crochet
    dc - double crochet
    st(s) - stitch(es)
    sl st - slip stitch
    prev. - previous

    Gauge:
    single crochet stitches
    4" x 4" = 18 st x 10 rows



    Step-by-Step:

    Foundation: ch60

    Row 1               1 hdc into 3rd ch, then 1 hdc into each ch to end
    Row 2               ch2, 1 hdc through the front loop of the each st from prev. row (total ch2 + 58 hdc)
    Row 3               ch2, 1 hdc in next st, *[1 dc around front post of hdc below next st, 1 hdc into next 2 consecutive sts]* - repeat to end

    Repeat Rows 2 & 3  three (3) more times (Rows 4-9)

    Row 10              same as Row 2, fasten off your yarn

    Place marker into each 18th st counted from each end. You will work in the middle. Working on the RIGHT SIDE of the diaper cover start at the 19th st with ch2. This will be your Row 11. You will work with 23 sts, ending with 2 hdc sts, in which last hdc st will be placed in the place of second marker.

    Place markers as shown in the image


    Row 11              same as Row 3
    Row 12              same as Row 2

    Repeat Rows 11 & 12  eleven (11) more times (Rows 13-34)

    Finish crocheting around the perimeter of the entire diaper cover with a back single crochet stitch. (Watch my video how to do it). Weave in the ends. Sow on small buttons that can fit into the spaces where the double first double crochet stitches are.

    The right side of the diaper cover - crocheted around with back single crochet stitches

    **************************************************************

    To SUBSCRIBE To My Video Channel and scroll through many videos

    Click HERE

    Other Crocheted Items you may want to check out

    Crocheted Hat for AGD Or Preemie Baby - Be My Valentine
    Crocheted Slippers (adult)
    Crocheted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Three Summer Crocheted Hats For Babies
    Crocheted Spring Hat (youth/adult)
    Crocheted Hat With Raised Design (Youth)
    Chicken Placemat For Kids
    Simple Crocheted Headband
    Simple Crocheted Coasters

    Knits you may enjoy checking out:


    Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
    Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
    Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
    Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


    If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE