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Granny Square No 3 - Mesh - For Foggy Dawn Sweater Project

Here is another detailed video tutorial of #3 mesh granny square for left-handed crocheters for our Foggy Dawn Sweater Project. If you would like to make this sweater, click on the link "Introduction to this project" below OR on one of the two links for a PLAYLIST (left-handed or right-handed crocheters), to crochet along.) My videos are quite detailed for crocheters that need help with crocheting. But if you are more experienced, use it just as a reference and skip some of the parts so you don't get too bored.

Use this pattern for any project - my sweater, a granny square blanket, or any other project that requires crocheted squares.

To crochet this square, you need to know how to crochet chain, slip stitch, single crochet stitch, and double crochet stitch.

The video for this granny square coming soon.


ALL VIDEOS REGARDING THIS PROJECT (INCLUDING THE INTRODUCTION):

BLOG POSTS REGARDING THIS PROJECT:



Note: To attach your granny squares as you go use all your ch2 spaces along one, two, three or even four sides as well as ch2 spaces in corners. Please be aware that in the video where I demonstrate how to crochet this square I crocheted ch3 in each corner of the last row, but changed the ch3 to ch2 in the written pattern below.

Size:
Granny Squares - approx. 6"
Sweater - build your size with as many squares as needed

Material:
Yarn - Loops & Threads; Snuggly Wuggly; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; 446 yards/408m; 5 oz/141g
Hook - F/5, 3.75mm
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
sl st - slip stitch
sp - space
dc sp - double crochet space
ch1sp - one chain space
ch2sp - two chain space
ch3sp - three chain space

**********************************

Square #3 (Mesh)
Foundation: ch27

Row 1          make 1 dc into 9th ch from the hook, *[ch2, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st]* - 6x, turn
Row 2          ch5, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, *[ch2, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st]* - 5x, then ch2, skip 2 ch sts, make 1 dc into 3rd ch, turn
Row 3-7       same as Row 2

Edge:

Crochet in the round

Rnd 1

side 1
turn your turn your work to crochet along 1st side as such: ch2, 2 sc in the sp, *[1 sc in the ch st, 2 sc in sp]* - 5x, 1 sc in ch st, then in last sp/corner: (2 sc, ch3, 2 sc);
side 2 & 3
turn your turn your work to crochet along 2nd and 3rd sides as such: *[1 sc in the ch st, 2 sc in sp]* - 5x, 1 sc in ch st, then in last sp/corner: (2 sc, ch3, 2 sc);
side 4
turn your work to crochet along 4th side: *[1 sc in the ch st, 2 sc in sp]* - 5x, 1 sc in ch st, then in last sp/corner: (2 sc, ch3, join to the initial 2nd ch with sl st);

Rnd 2

side 1
turn your work to crochet along 1st side: ch2, skip 1 sts, 1 sc in next st, *[ch3, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts, 1 sc in next st]* - 2x, ch3, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch1, then in the ch3sp corner: (1 sc, ch3, 1 sc);
side 2-3
turn your turn your work to crochet along 2nd and 3rd sides as such: ch1, skip 1 sts, 1 sc in next st, *[ch3, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts, 1 sc in next st]* - 2x, ch3, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch1, then in the ch3sp corner: (1 sc, ch3, 1 sc);
side 4
turn your work to crochet along 4th side: ch1, skip 1 sts, 1 sc in next st, *[ch3, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts, 1 sc in next st]* - 2x, ch3, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch1, then in the ch3sp corner: (1 sc, ch3, 1 sc, join with sl st in initial first ch);

Rnd 3

side 1
turn your work to crochet along 1st side: slip stitch into ch3sp, in ch3sp crochet ch3,  3dc, ch2, *[then in ch3sp crochet 4dc, ch2]* - 2x, then in the ch3sp corner: (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc);
side 2, 3 and 4
turn your turn your work to crochet along 2nd, 3rd, and 4th sides as such: *[ch2, 4 dc]* - 3x, then ch2 and in the ch3sp corner: (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc); join the 4th side to 1st side as such: ch2, then sl st in 3rd ch of initial ch3


Note: In the video, while I videotaped my last row in SOME of these videos I worked my corner stitches as such: (3 dc, ch3, 3 dc). As I made more of these squares I changed the corner to (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) - one less chain stitch in the corner. It is better for joining the squares. Thank you for understanding.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)






Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Granny Square No 2 - Corner 2 Corner - For Foggy Dawn Sweater

In today's post, I will introduce to you my second granny square for "Foggy Dawn" sweater. This "corner to corner" granny square is unusual, and although as you crochet this square it may seem that it is a diamond - but proper stretching by hand or blocking will help you shape it into a square.
You have to know how to crochet: chain, sl st, single crochet, double crochet, and puff stitch. You can follow my written pattern or crochet along my video (see links below).


Stay tuned for a few more granny squares (including video tutorials in my YouTube Channel) to make your sweater unique.



ALL VIDEOS REGARDING THIS PROJECT (INCLUDING THE INTRODUCTION):

BLOG POSTS REGARDING THIS PROJECT:

Note: To attach your granny squares as you go use all your ch2 spaces along one, two, three or even four sides as well as ch2 spaces in corners. Please be aware that in the video where I demonstrate how to crochet this square I crocheted ch3 in each corner of the last row, but changed the ch3 to ch2 in the written pattern below.

Size:
Granny Squares - approx. 6"
Sweater - build your size with as many squares as needed

Material:
Yarn - Loops & Threads; Snuggly Wuggly; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; 446 yards/408m; 5 oz/141g
Hook - F/5, 3.75mm
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
sl st - slip stitch
YO - yarn over
sp - space
dc sp - double crochet space
ch1sp - one chain space
ch2sp - two chain space
ch3sp - three chain space
ch4sp - fourth chain space
ch5sp - five chain space
ch6sp - six chain space
puff-1 - puff stitch #1: YO and insert the hook into the next stitch (or space). YO and pull through to the height of dc - repeat this process 3 times and you will end up with 6 loops plus an initial stitch on your hook. YO and pull through 6 loops, YO and pull through last 2 stitches on the hook
puff-2 - puff stitch #2: YO and insert the hook into the next stitch (or space). YO and pull through to the height of dc - repeat this process 4 times and you will end up with 8 loops plus an initial stitch on your hook. YO and pull through 8 loops, YO and pull through last 2 stitches on the hook
prev - previous
5-dc st - 5 double crochet stitch
bobble - (yarn over and insert the hook into the chain space, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through two loops) - 3x - you will end up with 4 loops on your hook (including stitch on hook), then yarn over and pull through all of the loops on the hook


**********************************

Square #2 (C2C)
Foundation: ch6, join

Row 1           ch3, 5 dc in the ring, turn
Row 2           ch4 (4th chain acts as a ch1sp),  *[in each st: 1 dc, ch1]* - 4x, 1 dc in 3rd ch st of ch4 (5 ch1sps), turn
Row 3           ch4,  *[puff st in ch1sp, ch1]* - 5x, 1 dc in 3rd ch st of ch4 (5 puff-1 sts), turn
Row 4           ch4,  *[in each ch1sp: 1 dc, ch1]* - 3x, 1dc in 3rd puff-1 from prev row, ch1, *[in each ch1sp: 1 dc, ch1]* - 3x, 1 dc in 3rd ch st of ch4 (8 ch1sps), turn
Row 5           ch4,  *[puff-1 in ch1sp, ch1]* - 8x, 1 dc in 3rd ch st of ch4 (8 puff-1 sts + 9 ch1sp), turn
Row 6           ch4, *[in each ch1sp: 1 dc, ch1]* - 9x, 1 dc in 3rd ch st of ch4 (10 ch1sps), turn
Row 7           ch4,  *[puff-1 st in ch sp, ch1]* - 10x, 1 dc in 3rd ch st of ch4 (10 puff-1 sts + 11 ch1sp), turn
Row 8           ch3, *[2 dc in ch1sp, 1 dc into puff]* - 10x, 1 dc in ch1sp, 1 dc in 3rd ch st of ch4 (total ch3 + 32 dc), turn
Row 9           *[ch5, 1 sc in 4th dc]* - 7x, ch2, 1 dc in 3rd ch st of ch3 from prev row (8 loops)
Row 10         *[ch5, 1 sc in ch5sp]* - 6x, ch2, 1 dc in last ch5sp from prev row (7 loops)
Row 11         *[ch5, 1 sc in ch5sp]* - 5x, ch2, 1 dc in last ch5sp from prev row (6 loops)
Row 12         *[ch5, 1 sc in ch5sp]* - 4x, ch2, 1 dc in last ch5sp from prev row (5 loops)
Row 13         *[ch5, 1 sc in ch5sp]* - 3x, ch2, 1 dc in last ch5sp from prev row (4 loops)
Row 14         *[ch5, 1 sc in ch5sp]* - 2x, ch2, 1 dc in last ch5sp from prev row (3 loops)
Row 15         *[ch5, 1 sc in ch5sp]* - 1x, ch2, 1 dc in last ch5sp from prev row (2 loops)
Row 16         ch5, 1 sl st in ch5sp (1 loop) turn and continue with an edge

Edge:

Crochet in the round

side 1
sl st into ch5sp and make ch3, then make 2 dc, ch2, 3 dc in the same ch5sp, continue crocheting along the 1st side of the square as such: *[ch2, skip sp, 4 dc into next sp]* - 3x, ch2, skip sp; then in ch3 from Row 8 make (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc);
side 2
then continue along the 2nd side with puff sts as such: *[ch2, skip sp, 4 dc into next sp]* - 3x, ch2, skip sp; then in the initial ch8 ring make (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc);
side 3
then continue along the 3rd side with puff sts as such: *[ch2, skip sp, 4 dc into next sp]* - 3x, ch2, skip sp; then in ch3 from Row 8 make (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc);
side 4
finish crocheting along the 4th side of the square as such: *[ch2, skip sp, 4 dc into next sp]* - 3x, ch2, skip sp; join with sl st into 4th ch at the beginning of the edge.


Note: In the video, while I videotaped my last row in SOME of these videos I worked my corner stitches as such: (3 dc, ch3, 3 dc). As I made more of these squares I changed the corner to (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) - one less chain stitch in the corner. It is better for joining the squares. Thank you for understanding.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)






Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Granny Square No. 1 For Foggy Dawn Sweater

In my last post, I wrote about "Introduction To Crocheted Sweater 'Foggy Dawn'". There, I published links to videos where I am demonstrating how to join granny squares used for this project.

Today, I will introduce my first granny square for "Foggy Dawn" sweater. Please, take your time and read few pointers (I will talk about them in my videos as well), which I figured out later while I worked on my project, and which lead to my realization that I have to rework parts of my sweater or rejoin squares.
As I mentioned in my "Intro" post you need to attach each "granny" to another one as you go.

So here are tips that will make your work easier:

  • If you are a right-handed crocheter, you should start attaching rows from left to right, and then top down. If you are a left-handed crocheter then you should join squares right to left & from the top down. Start with the back first - from one end of your arm to the other. (Note: I started attaching squares haphazardly and it got more difficult to fit some of them later) 
  • If you are using several colors, make sure that your colors alternate in the best possible way. Plan each square color ahead of time - draw a diagram of your sweater and fill the colors into each square as you would like them on your finished project.
  • Try to alternate your different type of squares so they are also visually pleasing to the eye. Number your squares and write those numbers into each square of your diagram.
  • Leave weaving your tails (ends) as the last task, just in case you need to re-work your joining.
Have fun creating something beautiful. You can use these squares not just for a sweater, but also for blankies, vests, purses (for a purse you would need to sew in a liner), etc.


ALL VIDEOS REGARDING THIS PROJECT (INCLUDING THE INTRODUCTION):

BLOG POSTS REGARDING THIS PROJECT:

Note: To attach your granny squares as you go use all your ch2 spaces along one, two, three or even four sides as well as ch2 spaces in corners. Please be aware that in the video where I demonstrate how to crochet this square I crocheted ch3 in each corner of the last row, but changed the ch3 to ch2 in the written pattern below.

Size:
Granny Squares - approx. 6"
Sweater - build your size with as many squares as needed

Material:
Yarn - Loops & Threads; Snuggly Wuggly; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; 446 yards/408m; 5 oz/141g
Hook - F/5, 3.75mm
Yarn needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
sl st - slip stitch
YO - yarn over
sp - space
dc sp - double crochet space
ch1sp - one chain space
ch2sp - two chain space
ch3sp - three chain space
ch4sp - fourth chain space
ch5sp - five chain space
ch6sp - six chain space
puff-1 - puff stitch #1: YO and insert the hook into the next stitch (or space). YO and pull through to the height of dc - repeat this process 3 times and you will end up with 6 loops plus an initial stitch on your hook. YO and pull through 6 loops, YO and pull through last 2 stitches on the hook
puff-2 - puff stitch #2: YO and insert the hook into the next stitch (or space). YO and pull through to the height of dc - repeat this process 4 times and you will end up with 8 loops plus an initial stitch on your hook. YO and pull through 8 loops, YO and pull through last 2 stitches on the hook
prev - previous
5-dc st - 5 double crochet stitch
bobble - (yarn over and insert the hook into the chain space, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through two loops) - 3x - you will end up with 4 loops on your hook (including stitch on hook), then yarn over and pull through all of the loops on the hook


**********************************

Granny Square No. 1 

Foundation: ch23

Row 1          make 1 dc into 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next st; *[ch2, skip 1 ch sts, 1 sc in next st, ch2, skip 1 ch sts, 1 dc in next 3 ch sts]* - 3x

Row 2          ch3 (counts as dc), 1 dc in next 2 sts; *[ch3, 1 dc in each of 3 dc from prev row]* - 3x
Row 3          ch3, 1 dc in next 2 sts; *[ch2, 1 sc in ch3sp, ch2, 1 dc in  each of 3 dc from prev row]* - 3x

Repeat Rows 2 & 3  three more times (= Rows 4 through 9); turn as if you want to crochet Row 10

Edge:

Crochet in the round
Rnd 1

side 1
Note: count ch3's and dc's along the side as sp
turn your work to crochet along 1st side as such: ch4 (2+2), make 1 sc into your dc sp you crocheted in your last row (count space as either ch3 or dc), *[ch4, skip 1 sp and make 1 sc into next sp, ch2, then 1 sc into next sp]* - 2x,  ch4,  skip 1 sp, 1 sc in last dc sp, ch2, then in corner make: (1 sc, ch3, 1 sc);
side 2
continue crocheting along 2nd side as such: ch2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in 3rd dc of first 3dc-panel, *[ch4, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in 1st dc of next 3dc-panel, ch2, skip one st, 1sc in next st]* - 2x; ch4, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in 1st dc of the last 3dc-panel, ch2, then in the corner make: (1 sc, ch3, 1 sc);
side 3
continue crocheting along 3rd side as such: ch2, make 1 sc into your first dc sp (space as either ch3 or dc), *[ch4, skip 1 sp and make 1 sc into next sp, ch2, then 1 sc into next sp]* - 2x, ch4,  skip 1 sp, 1 sc in the last ch3sp, ch2, then in the corner make: (1 sc, ch3, 1 sc);
side 4
continue crocheting along 4th side as such: ch2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in 3rd dc of first 3dc-panel, *[ch4, skip 5 sts, 1 sc in 1st dc of next 3dc-panel, ch2, skip one st, 1sc in next st]* - 2x; ch4, skip 5 sts, 1 sc in 1st dc of the last 3dc-panel, ch2, then in the corner where you started make: (1 sc, ch3) and join into 2nd ch with sl st;

Rnd 2

side 1
continue crocheting in the round as such: sl st along ch2 sp into 1st ch4 sp, then in ch4sp make (ch3, 3 dc), continue with *[ch2, 4 dc in ch4sp]* - 2x, ch2, then in the corner in ch3sp make (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc);
sides 2, 3 and 4
continue crocheting on the next three sides as such: *[ch2, 4 dc in ch4sp]* - 3x, ch2, then in the corner in ch3sp make (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc); join the 4th side to 1st side as such: ch2, then sl st in 3rd ch of initial ch3

Note: In the video, while I videotaped my last row in SOME of these videos I worked my corner stitches as such: (3 dc, ch3, 3 dc). As I made more of these squares I changed the corner to (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) - one less chain stitch in the corner. It is better for joining the squares. Thank you for understanding.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)






Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Introduction To Crocheted Sweater "Foggy Dawn" Using Openwork Granny Squares Plus Attaching Squares

  Some of the granny squares used in this project
I get a lot of requests to demonstrate knitting or crocheting items. My wonderful crafters send me images, but often I cannot fulfill their wishes due to copyright issues. If I choose to work on the project, I have to redesign the idea, knit/crochet, videotape, edit the video, take images and edit them, upload, share and answer questions on social media, etc.
Large projects can take up to 2-3 months to finish, small projects 2-7 days. It would take less time if I had a team. Unfortunately, I do not have funds to pay people for their work to help me satisfy all the requests.

However, occasionally I work on a request because I like an idea or an image/inspiration. Sometimes I find errors in patterns, so I fix them, then write changes down and publish them.

While working on "Foggy Dawn Sweater" I altered a couple of granny squares, and I also designed other granny squares so readers (and video viewers) would have plenty to chose from while creating their own personalized sweater.
All squares should be pretty much the same size. Use any combination of granny squares you'd love to have in the sweater.

I used four (slightly different) colors as in the image, which my friend Maureen sent me, but you may choose to make this sweater from only one color. Or two. Or, you could use a variegated yarn or even a multicolor yarn.

The inspirational image for my project that my friend would love to make.
After I searched the internet I found this image published HERE

If you do not want to make a sweater, you can use granny squares to make a vest or a blanket.
I used sport weight yarn (#3) and each square's side is about 6".

See a detailed video tutorial of my introduction to this project and a process of attaching the squares together (one, two and three sides) - see links below. 


ALL VIDEOS REGARDING THIS PROJECT (INCLUDING THE INTRODUCTION):

BLOG POSTS REGARDING THIS PROJECT:

Visit this page again in the near future to see links to several posts with granny squares, which I'll publish as I edit each of the completed square at a later date - at the moment I am trying to "catch" those pesky errors while filming "how to crochet" squares.
Also, be aware, that each square has to be attached as soon as you are finishing its last "edge row" - except the first square, which needs to be finished in its entirety. You cannot make these squares ahead of time unless you decide to "sew them together" instead of "crocheting them together" (as I do in my videos).

Here is a diagram of my project, that may help you visualize the process of attaching the squares.




Size:
Granny Squares - approx. 6"
Sweater - medium size, but you can build your size with as many squares as needed

Materials:



Yarn - Loops & Threads; Snuggly Wuggly; 100% acrylic; weight light (sport) #3; 446 yards/408m; 5 oz/141g
Hook - F/5 (3.75mm)
Yarn needle
Scissors

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)






Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.



Misti Alpaca Yarn - It Is Sooo Soft

Soooo, the other day I got a box of yarn via snail mail. Yeeey. (There is never enough of yarn for a serious knitter). This yarn is from a company called "Misti Alpaca." Misti Alpaca Yarn is produced in Peru (which I want to visit.) And let me tell you - it is an incredible yarn. Fabulous! Soft!

I just found out they will have a promotional sale until May 15th, 2018 - 40% OFF for the lace yarn - if you use promotional code love4lace at the checkout - your price for 100g of Hand Paint Lace will be $15.60 instead of $26. If interested CLICK HERE to get to the shopping cart, pick the color that you like, use the promotional code love4lace when checking out.

I got few skeins of Tonos Carnaval in several shades (see images below), 2 Chunky Alpaca skeins (incredible softness, I kid you not.) I got few skeins of Hand Paint Lace (very soft, just as the chunky one, because both are 100% baby alpaca), and I got few skeins of Hand Paint Sock (blend of alpaca, merino, silk, and nylon - aaahhhhh).

These yarns are the highest quality of yarn that I ever put in my hands. I love the colors, I love the texture and softness and I cannot wait to work with my "lovey-doveys." I know you may think they are expensive, but for a couple of dollars more than let's say merino yarn it is worth it.

If you want to see my video of Misti Alpaca yarns that I got in the mail (and my excitement too) - CLICK HERE. Otherwise, look at my images below what was in the box. I am already working my brain cells with ideas what I should knit with this precious yarn. Would you like to suggest your ideas what I should demonstrate knitting or crocheting? Comment on Youtube below the video. I may consider it (although I kind of have an idea what I would like to knit and crochet from these yarns.)

I will be waiting for your input on my YouTube Channel or Facebook or Twitter or Instagram.

Peace and Happy Knitting and Crocheting.



"Bulky" yarn from Misti Alpaca

"Hand Paint Lace" Yarn from Misti Alpaca

Hand Paint Sock" from Misti Alpaca

"Tonos Carnaval" from Misti Alpaca


***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Tiny Baby Espadrilles

I have been knitting and crocheting baby shoes on and off for quite some time. A while ago I decided to crochet tiny baby espadrilles. As I was crocheting I made videos for right-handed and left-handed crocheters. I wrote a pattern for these tiny "cuties" you see in the image and a pattern below - but I forgot to finish it and publish it.
It is interesting how life gets in the way of my projects. Luckily, this pattern will see the light of the day because one of the crocheter artists asked me about the pattern for these smallest sizes espadrilles. As I was researching my published blogs, this unpublished write up came up. So here you go - below is the free written pattern, and in THIS PLAYLIST YOU WILL FIND VIDEOS FOR RIGHTIES, WHICH GOES WITH THIS PATTERN (and more).
Please be aware - since I wrote this pattern a long time ago, I am not sure how accurate it is - so if anyone finds ANY errata - PLEASE LET ME KNOW.  Help me correct it, and help your fellow crocheters so they can crochet without frustrations 🌹Thank you and happy crocheting.

LEFTIES WILL FIND THEIR PLAYLIST HERE!


Materials (if you shop via affiliated links below you could help fund my future projects TXS):
Michaels on line store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

Afghan yarn, worsted #4 (ie. Loops & Threads "Impeccable" - I used Soft Taupe color for the soles and off-white for the top and heel)
hook - US size G,  4 mm
scissors
sewing/yarn needle for weaving the ends in


Size:
Length of the espadrilles is 4"


Step-by-Step:

Soles: make 4

color #1 (light brown)

Foundation: ch8

Row 1         3 hdc into 3rd chain st from hook, 1 hdc into next 4 ch st, 6 hdc into next st; next crochet 1 hdc in the next 4sts on the opposite side of initial foundation chain, 3 hdc in next st, join
Row 2         ch 2, 2 hdc in each of next 3 st, 1 sc into each of next 5 sts, 2 sc into each of next 4 sts, 1 sc into each of next 5 sts, 2 hdc into each of next 3 sts, join
Row 3          ch2, *[2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next st]* - 3x; 1 sc into each of next 6 sts, 2 sc into each of next 6 sts, 1 sc into each of next 6 sts,  *[1 hdc into next st, 2 hdc int next st]* - 3x; join

Place 2 soles with wrong side on top of each other and slip stitch them together with light brown yarn (insert your hook between two stitch of both soles at the same time and pull yarn through, then insert the hook between two stitches of both soles and pull yarn through soles and the stitch - repeat all around the perimeter. Do the same with the other pair. Weave in all the ends.

Top of the espadrilles

color #2 (cream)

With the right side up, and the tip part toward you find the center of the front. Count 10 stitches to the left from the center and place the marker. Then count 10 stitches to the right (from the center) and place the marker. You should have total 20 stitches.

Row 1 (RS)            Starting at the stitch where you placed your right marker (heel pointed to the right, tip of the sole to the left) crochet 1 sc in each stitch 20x. Turn.
Row 2 (WS)           1 sc in each st - 20x
Row 3 (RS)            2scTog - 2x, *[skip st, puff st]* - 5x, skip st, 2scTog - 2x, sl st into last st
Row 4 (WS)           1 sc in each of next 10 sts
Row 5 (RS)            2scTog, *[skip st, puff st]* - 2x, skip st,  2scTog, sl st into last st
Row 6 (WS)           1 sc in each of 4 sts, sl st along the edge and into the sole
Row 7 (RS)            *[crochet 3 chain picot, make 3 sl st along the edge]* - 5x, finish with 3 chain picot, sl stitch into the sole.


Heel

color #2 (cream)

With the right side up, and heel part facing away from you find the center of the heel. Count 8 stitches to the left from the center and place the marker. Then count 9 stitches to the right (from the center) and place the marker. You should have total 17 stitches.

Row 1 (RS)            Starting at the stitch where you placed your left marker (heel pointed to the left, tip of the sole to the right) crochet 1 sc in each of the 17 sts. Turn.
Row 2 (WS)           1 sc in each of 17 sts
Row 3 (RS)            1 sc in each of 7 sts, 3scTog, 1 sc in each of 7 sts (total 15 sts)
Row 4 (WS)           1 sc in each of 15 sts
Row 5 (RS)             1 sc in each of 6 sts, 3scTog, 1 sc in each of 6 sts (total 13 sts)

After you are finished with the row continue to crochet ch45 (= 45 chain sts). This will be your string tie. Cut your yarn off. make another string yarn (ch45) to the other side of the corner.

Weave in all ends.


***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Knitted Daily Sky Scarf

Hello, my fellow knitters. I am starting an ongoing project. I will be recording a daily sky in my approximately 72" long scarf. Every day, I will be posting my progress on THIS particular page. If you would like to join me in this knit-along project then save this page and return to it for day-by-day short narratives updates, including images, charts, links to other pages, and videos of this pattern. (I would like to do a live recording too, but I need to learn how to set up my computer. So, that idea is still in the air. Not sure if that will happen though. But it would be nice, right?)

Please, note that the scarf will be knitted length-wise because I would like to use each "new daily yarn strand" for a fringe - that way I do not have to weave in the tails. Smart idea, right?

Today, I will share with you:

  • some tables and charts I made for you (see below)
  • for the CHART of this scarf's "cable pattern" CLICK HERE
  • see what materials I will be using
If you would like to print any of the charts, you can click on the image to make it bigger and then print it. About the materials - you can substitute with your own choice of yarn - a scarf doesn't need to be exact, it can be a little narrower/wider or shorter/longer. Your knitting needles should correspond with a manufacturer's recommendation that is printed on the label. So let's do it.

*PRINTABLE WRITTEN PATTERN COMING SOON

VIDEO TUTORIALS (only for right-handed knitters):

FOR VIDEO "INTRO TO THIS PROJECT" CLICK HERE

VIDEO #2 - Per WRITTEN PATTERN Rows 7-10;  (Per CHART Rows 1-4)

VIDEO #3 - Per WRITTEN PATTERN Rows 11-16; (Per CHART Rows 5-10)

VIDEO #4 - Per WRITTEN PATTERN Rows 17-22; (Per CHART Rows 11-16)

VIDEO #5 - Per WRITTEN PATTERN Rows 23-26; (Per CHART Rows 17-20)

Keep track of your yarn (next to each sky image), date and what # of the daily sky (in the empty rectangles)

In the image below I am showing how I calculated my stitches for the scarf. I will make either two to three (and possibly even four) 20-row repeats - I am not sure just yet.
  1. In a first step, I figured out total stitches I will need for 72" long scarf (I like them long). If there are ~20 stitches in 4", then in 72" there are 360 sts (if you want a shorter scarf, you need to figure out how many stitches will fit into your inches, then you will have to figure out how many repeats will fit into your total stitches)
  2. My pattern calls for 16-stitch repeats, I figured that I will need about 21 repeats + extra stitches for each to get as close to 360 sts. With 21 repeats of 16-stitch pattern plus 10 sts for both 

This chart will help you figure out stitches for the length of your scarf


Materials (if you shop online via my affiliate links below, I would get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
Michaels online store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

Yarn - any yarn of medium weight (#4, worsted) - your choice;
In the video I am using: Cascade Yarns, Cascade 220, worsted weight #4, 100g/3.5 oz; 220 yds/200 m; Colors:  8905 (light blue), 8505 (white), 9559 (light gray), 9325 (medium blue), 9567 (dark blue), 8400 (dark gray)
Circular knitting needles -  US #8 (5.00 mm)
Scissors

These are my Yarn Samples paired with different types of skies


Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
sts - stitches
M - place marker between the stitches
CR(K2/K2) - right-leaning cable with K2/K2 sts = slip 2 sts on the cable needle and place the cable needle in the back of your work, knit next 2 sts, then knit 2 sts from cable needle
CL(K2/K2) - left-leaning cable with K2/K2 sts = slip 2 sts on the cable needle and place the cable needle in the front of your work, knit next 2 sts, then knit 2 sts from cable needle
CR(K2/P2) - right-leaning cable with K2/P2 sts = slip 2 sts on the cable needle and place the cable needle in the back of your work, knit next 2 sts, then purl 2 sts  from cable needle
CL(P2/K2) - left-leaning cable with P2/K2 sts = slip 2 sts on the cable needle and place  the cable needle in the front of your work, purl next 2 sts, then knit 2 sts from cable needle
BO - bind off

Gauge:
My gauge corresponds to a manufacturer's gauge on the yarn label, however, it is not as important in this project

Size:
Lenght: ~72"
Width: undecided (per my likeness)


Step-by-Step:

CO 346 sts on circular needles (5.00 mm)
Please, note that day = row, ie. Day 1 = Row 1 or Day 23 = Row 23

Day 1-5           K346
Day 6              K5, M, *[K16, M]* - repeat until your last 5 sts, K5


  • Update #1 - February 11, 2018

Today I finished my 5 rows. Tomorow I have to knit one more row of knit stitches. As I will be knitting the row I will be inserting markers between the stitches for my next row, that is for row 7 - I made a change to my pattern above. And below are my skies in the last 5 days 😊

YARN COLORS BY DAILY SKY:  Day 1 - #2, Day 2 - #3, Day 3 - #3, Day 4 - #2, Day 5 - #4



  • Update #2 - February 14, 2018 (HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY, BTW πŸ’ )

    Now we are getting into cables. You will have to pay big attention to right-leaning and left_leaning cables, PLUS if you will be knitting all four sts of your cable, or purling2/knitting2 OR knitting2/purling2. It is very important to concentrate on your knitting (no distractions!!) so you get that beautiful 3D pattern. You do not want to frog anything, right?
Day 7                   K-edge, M, *[P4, CR(K2/K2)CL(K2/K2), P4, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 8 (Feb14th)  K-edge, M, *[P16, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 9                   K-edge, M, *[P2, CR(K2/P2),  K4,  CL(P2/K2), P2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge

    • Update #3 - February 16, 2018

    Link to the finished VIDEO #2 (for righties) is mentioned above. But I must warn you - I made a big "booboo" which I am explaining somewhere toward the end of the video (on day 10) - so pay attention to what happened. It is not affecting the pattern if you did it right - unlike me πŸ™„. Luckily I didn't have to re-record the rows again - but the number of stitches in my scarf's edge are different now, so I altered "K5" to "K-edge" in the written pattern.
    As you see it is turning into an adventure πŸ˜€. By the time I am finished with this scarf, we should have this pattern written without mistakes. Hopefully πŸ˜.
Day 10                 K-edge, M, *[P4, K2, P4, K2, P4, M]* - repeat; then K-edge

  • Update #4 - February 22, 2018
    Link to the finished VIDEO #3 (for righties) is mentioned above.

Day 11                  K-edge, M, *[CR(K2/P2), P2, K4,  P2, CL(P2/K2), M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 12                  K-edge, M, *[P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 13                  K-edge, M, *[K2, P2, CR(K2/P2), CL(P2/K2), P2, K2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 14                  K-edge, M, *[P2, K2, P8, K2, P2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 15                  K-edge, M, *[K2, CR(K2/P2),  P4, CL(P2/K2), K2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 16                  K-edge, M, *[P16, M]* - repeat; then K-edge


  • Update #4 - March 2, 2018
    Link to the finished VIDEO #4 (for righties) is mentioned above.

Day 17                 K-edge, M, *[CL(K2/K2), P8, CR(K2/K2), M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 18                 K-edge, M, *[P16, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 19                 K-edge, M, *[K2, CL(P2/K2),  P4, CR(K2/P2)K2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 20                 K-edge, M, *[P2, K2, P8, K2, P2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 21                 K-edge, M, *[K2, P2 CL(P2/K2), CR(K2/P2), P2K2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 22                 K-edge, M, *[P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge

  • Update #5 - March 7, 2018
    Link to the finished VIDEO #5 (for righties) is mentioned above.

Day 23                 K-edge, M, *[CL(P2/K2), P8, CR(K2/P2), M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 24                 K-edge, M, *[P4, K2, P4, K2, P4, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 25                 K-edge, M, *[P2, CL(P2/K2),  K4, CR(K2/P2)P2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 26                 K-edge, M, *[P16, M]* - repeat; then K-edge


REPEAT ROWS 7-26 TWO TO THREE MORE TIMES (DEPENDING ON HOW WIDE YOU WANT YOUR SCARF. 

Then knit 6 rows of knit stitches only and when finished with your second edge BO all the stitches. Leave the tail long enough for a fringe

TIGHTEN UP ALL THE TAILS (IF YOU DIDN'T DO IT ALREADY) AND MAKE KNOTS USING 2 YARN TAILS (1 TAIL FROM EACH OF THE ADJACENT ROWS) AS CLOSE TO YOUR KNIT AS POSSIBLE. WHEN FINISHED TIE-ING ALL THE KNOTS MAKE ANOTHER ROW OF KNOTS BY SEPARATING EACH PAIR AND PAIR STRINGS AGAIN WITH EACH YARN TAIL FROM THE OTHER PAIR - MAKE KNOTS IN A STRAIGHT LINE. EVEN OUT YOUR FRINGE BY CUTTING IT STRAIGHT ACROSS IN THE DESIRED LENGTH.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Little Hats Big Hearts Project - Red Hat 4 Newborns


A couple of months ago, my friend (fabulous and talented Iris) shared a link to the "LITTLE HATS BIG HEARTS" project with me. In it, the AMERICAN HEART ASSOCIATION asked knitters and crocheters in the US to make red hats for NEWBORN BABIES to raise awareness for "Congenital Heart Defects."
The requested specifics are that yarn needs to be: red, cotton or acrylic, medium to heavy weight, and machine washable and dryable.
I got excited about this project and decided not only to make these hats, but also to write two patterns for my followers (one for hat knitted in the round, and one for hat knitted on straight knitting needles), and make three videos of hats - one knitted with DPNs, one knitted with circulars and one knitted on straight needles. And on top of that, these three videos for right-handed edit also for left-handed knitters (total six videos).
Although I am not very strong in the English style of knitting, I included few times both versions - the Continental style of knitting and English too.

For the two hats knitted either with DPNs or circular needles, you need to know how to knit in the round. The hat knitted on straight needles is more comfortable to knit, but then you have to deal with a seam. However, all you need to know, to knit these hats, is how to cast on, how to knit and purl, how to bind off, and for hat knitted flat also how to sew or crochet the two side seams together.

I know it is already February, and hospitals may not accept hats anymore (please check either with your local hospital OR with American Heart Association if they are still accepting hats in your area). However, you could make a newborn hat with hearts for Valentine's baby, or for your family member or a friend that will be Mom soon.

This hat is not only great about spreading the awareness about "Congenital Heart Defects," but also just for giving a hat with heart - also a meaning for LOVE. And while you are reading this, please, check out my "SHAKEN BABY SYNDROME PURPLE HAT" post - which I wrote awhile back about another so much needed awareness. There is a free written pattern, plus links to videos for right-handed and left-handed knitters. Spread the love, and spread the wisdom you learn from reading educational articles online (click on the provided links throughout this article).

Thank you all.

BELOW ARE LINKS FOR THE SIX VIDEOS - FOR RIGHTIES AND LEFTIES: 

CLICK HERE FOR HAT #1 KNITTED ON DPNs FOR RIGHTIES
CLICK HERE FOR HAT #1 KNITTED ON DPNs FOR LEFTIES

CLICK HERE FOR HAT #2 KNITTED ON CIRCULARS FOR RIGHTIES
CLICK HERE FOR HAT #2 KNITTED ON CIRCULARS FOR LEFTIES
In these two videos, you will see a good demonstration of using a so-called "magic loop" while knitting with circular needles.

CLICK HERE FOR HAT #3 KNITTED ON STRAIGHT NEEDLES FOR RIGHTIES
CLICK HERE FOR HAT #3 KNITTED ON STRAIGHT NEEDLES FOR LEFTIES


Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
DPN - double pointed needles
K - knit
P - purl
M - marker
K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
BO - bind off by pulling yarn through remaining sts
sl sts - slip stitches

Gauge:
My gauge corresponds to a manufacturer's gauge on any yarn label

Materials (if you shop online via my affiliated links below, I would get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
Michaels online store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 
Yarn - any washable red, acrylic, medium weight (#4, worsted) - see below which ones I used
Knitting needles - all these hats were knitted on same sized needles: US #7 (4.5mm)
Hook - I used 4mm hook
Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tail, optional)
Scissors

Size:
Circumference: 12"-13"
Height: 5"


HAT #1 - KNITTED ON DPNs - about 1/4 ball of yarn by Loops & Threads, Impeccable; medium worsted #4; color Cherry; 100% acrylic
&
HAT #2 - KNITTED ON CIRCULARS - about 1/4 ball of yarn by Red Heart, Super Saver; medium worsted #4; color Hot Red; 100% acrylic

HAT #1

HAT #2


Step-by-Step:

CO 54 sts on long needles (4.5 mm)

Row 1              knit the first row of ribbing as such: *(K1, P1)* - repeat to end; then distribute stitches evenly among 3 DPNs (18-18-18 sts on each needle), OR move your sts onto your circular knitting needles; then join into circle (make sure stitches are not twisted when joining)
Rnd 2-8           *(K1, P1)* - repeat 27x in each row
Rnd 9-11          K54, in 11th round place M every 9 sts
Rnd 12-13        *[K4, P1, K4]* - 6x
Rnd 14-15        *[K3, P3, K3]* - 6x
Rnd 16-17        *[K2, P5, K2]* - 6x
Rnd 18-19        *[K1, P7, K1]* - 6x
Rnd 20-21        *[K1, P3, K1, P3, K1]* - 6x
Rnd 22             *[K2, P1, K3, P1, K2]* - 6x
Rnd 23-26         K54 - remove your M
Rnd 27              *[K4, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 28              K45
Rnd 29              *[K3, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 30              K36
Rnd 31              *[K2, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 32              K27
Rnd 33              *[K1, K2tog]* - 9x

You will have 18 sts left on your needles - elongate your last knitted stitch by pulling it and pull it through remaining stitches with a hook. Make a knot, and weave in your tails on the inside of your hat.


HAT #3 - KNITTED ON STRAIGHT KNITTING NEEDLES - about 1/4 ball of yarn by Caron, Simply Soft; medium worsted #4; color Autumn Red; 100% acrylic

HAT #3


Step-by-Step:

CO 54 sts on long needles (4.5 mm)

Row 1-8           *(K1, P1)* - repeat 27x in each row
Rnd 9               K54
Rnd 10             P 54
Rnd 11             K54
Rnd 12             P 54
Rnd 13            *[K4, P1, K4]* - 6x
Rnd 14            *[P4, K1, P4]* - 6x
Rnd 15            *[K3, P3, K3]* - 6x
Rnd 16            *[P3, K3, P3]* - 6x
Rnd 17            *[K2, P5, K2]* - 6x
Rnd 18            *[P2, K5, P2]* - 6x
Rnd 19            *[K1, P7, K1]* - 6x
Rnd 20            *[P1, K7, P1]* - 6x
Rnd 21            *[K1, P3, K1, P3, K1]* - 6x
Rnd 22            *[P1, K3, P1, K3, P1]* - 6x
Rnd 23             *[K2, P1, K3, P1, K2]* - 6x
Rnd 24             P 54 - remove your M
Rnd 25             K54
Rnd 26             P 54
Rnd 27             *[K4, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 28             P45
Rnd 29             *[K3, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 30             P36
Rnd 31             *[K2, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 32             P27
Rnd 33             *[K1, K2tog]* - 9x

You will have 18 sts left on your needles - elongate your last knitted stitch by pulling it and pull it through remaining stitches with a hook. Make a knot, sew or crochet your sides together and weave in your tails on the inside of your hat. If you will crochet your sides (see the video knitting with straight needles) use sl sts - do not crochet with single crochet stitches, it would be too thick.

Donated hats - thank you Iris for the idea and hats!


***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.