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This web site is dedicated to my professor Stacy Israel, who taught all her students about the importance of being creative, and not just a consumer.

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Reversible Knitted Holiday Scarf


I love patterns for scarves that are reversible, because they look beautiful on both sides. The pattern that I am sharing with you today is just that - same on both sides. On top of being identical on both sides, it is also very easy to knit. It is perfect even for advanced (or talented) beginners. All you need to know is how to cast on, how to do a knit stitch, how to do a purl stitch and how to bind off. That is all. Easy. Simple. Beautiful. If you are a novice knitter try to knit a washcloth, a scarf or a shrug. If you are and adventurer use this pattern for a blanket.

Knitters who would like to look at a quick visual video for reference (for lefties and righties), CLICK HERE to see my HandMade-Rukodelky Facebook Page - and then click on videos located in menu bar. Or here are direct links for this 4 minute visual videos: RIGHTIES CLICK HERE and LEFTIES CLICK HERE

Knitters who would like to see video of a narrated long version of this project (which is uploaded on YouTube) click on either link below:

RIGHTIES CLICK HERE
LEFTIES CLICK HERE

And lastly - my free written pattern is below.

Note: If you knit for people you may sell your product made from any of my patterns, but please do not claim my pattern as yours. And all I ask you - please reference me. I work hard for all of you - without a pay, so play nice :-)
Enjoy.

Size:
Make your own size

Materials:
Yarn: Use any yarn of your choice. I used 3 balls of Cascade Yarns, Bollicine, Holiday; a blend of 70% merino wool & 30% acrylic; color 22 - red; 50 gr/1.76 oz; 125m/136 yd.
Knitting Needles: Use a size recommended by a manufacturer. I used US 7/4.50 mm

Gauge (2k/2p ribbing with Cascade Yarns):
38 sts = unstretched 6", stretched 9"
Note: Thinner yarn will be narrower, thicker yarn will be wider

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
BO - bind of
st, sts - stitch, stitches



Step-by-Step:

Foundation: 
Cast On multiples of 4 sts (plus 2 sts - optional). I casted on 38 stitches - (9 x 4 sts) + 2 sts for edges (1 st for each edge). For wider items you'll need lot more stitches.
Note: You can cast on ANY multiple of 4 stitches - use this pattern for shrugs or blankets too.

Row 1-2          K3, *[P2, K2]* - repeat to last 3 sts, P3
Row 3-4          K 38

Repeat rows as many times as needed for desired length.

Last Row - BO all stitches and weave in ends.

Note: You see how easy this pattern is? Told you so.


If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

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Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:


"Summer Rain" Halter Top (M size)
Cerulean Hat
Poncho
Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)

"Summer Rain" Halter Top

My family and I (understand my dear husband and daughter, and my 2 feisty Jack Russell Terriers Toyen and Yoda) visited beautiful Emerald Isle this Summer. Our family really needed it.
I brought knitting with me - a halter top I started for my daughter in the winter that I never finished; plus a second project (a garter stitch baby overalls - simpler than the BABY JUMPER in my LATEST VIDEO I videotaped for both, righties and lefties) - just in case I wouldn't have anything else to do when everyone is relaxing after a walk around nearby towns on a hot day, or after time spent at the peaceful, but windy beach.

When I was researching the area on "Google Maps", I noticed that there is a "Salty Sheep Yarn Shop" in Swansboro. On one of our local trips I my family and I drove to this town. My husband and daughter enjoyed sitting on a comfy couch while I browsed this yarn store on West Church Street. I totally enjoyed being surrounded by so many skeins of fabulous yarns, and of course, I had to spend few dollars there. Would you expect me to do otherwise? After all I supported our economy. But I will write about that later.

After I came "home" from the store, I decided to finish the halter top. However,  I miscalculated the size of the top, so when I was finished, it fit me instead of my daughter. Now she has to wait for her tank top that I will knit from the yarn she picked at the "Salty Sheep Yarn Shop".
And me? I have to do many sit ups, because my belly just doesn't look good while wearing this top.
(FYI - I sucked my belly in as much as possible, so it looks good in the pictures 😂 ).

Below is free pattern for the "Summer Rain" halter top. Enjoy. Happy knitting.




Size:
Medium - about 30" around the rib cage (below the chest), 15" top to bottom in the front, 5" top to bottom in the back.

Materials:
Yarn: Worsted (#4 weight) - I used 2 balls of Classic Elite Yarns, Verde Collection, Seedling, color 4575 - Summer Rain, 50 g, 110 yd, organic cotton, machine wash on cold gentle cycle
Knitting Needles: 5.00 mm
Hook: 3.50 mm

Gauge (2k/2p ribbing):
4" x 4" = 14 sts x 21 rows

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
P2tog - purl 2 stitches together
ssk - slip, slip, knit two stitches together
BO - bind of
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
st, sts - stitch, stitches


Step-by-Step:

BACK  PART

Foundation - CO 60 sts
For pattern work K2/P2 ribbing

Row 1-30          work ribbing: *[K2, P2]* - repeat to end
Row 31              BO all stitches.

Note: For short halter top I knitted 30 rows, if you want your halter top longer add more rows (ie 40, or 50, or 60....)
Leave a long tail for either sewing (or crocheting) both pieces together.


FRONT  PART

Foundation - use a very long tail to CO 60 sts (this long tail will be used for sewing or crocheting front and back together)

Row 1-30           same as "BACK PART"

Note: For short halter top back I knitted 30 rows, if you want your halter top longer add more rows  - your front rows must correspond with your back rows.

Row 31              BO 2 sts, work ribbing to end (total 58 sts)
Row 32              BO 2 sts, work ribbing to end (total 56 sts)
Row 33              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 55 sts)
Row 34              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 54 sts)
Row 35              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 53 sts)
Row 36              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 52 sts)

Row 37              work ribbing
Row 38              work ribbing
Row 39              work ribbing
Row 40              work ribbing
Row 41              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 51 sts)
Row 42              BO 1 sts, work ribbing to end (total 50  sts)

Work Rows 37 through 42 - until you have 36 sts on your needle (you should end up with total 84 rows). Then BO all sts. Do not cut your yarn off - you will use your uncut yarn to finish your top.

Note: For short "halter top" front I knitted 30 rows, then continued shaping the rest of the top. If you want your halter top longer add more rows  (ie 40, or 50, or 60....)

Crochet or sew sides of both pieces together.


FINISHING



Starting at your corner, where is your last BO stitch (1), crochet about 70 chain sts as your foundation. Then skip one chain stitch and make 1 sc into each chain stitch - this will be your first strap (2). When you get back to your corner where you started, continue making sc sts all along the edge of the halter top - distribute stitches evenly (3), (4), (5). When you get to the next corner of your front piece, crochet again 70 chain sts (6), and again crochet 1 sc st into each chain st on the way back to the corner (7). Then continue crocheting 1 sc st into each st along the top edge of your front part (8) finishing at the start (1). Fasten off and weave in all the tails.


If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

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Free knitting patterns/videos you may enjoy checking out:


Cerulean Hat
Poncho
Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)

Crocheted Boobies a.k.a. Knockers

Crocheted boobies/prostetics
I have seen many articles on the Internet with knitted and crocheted boobies - in other words breast prosthetics. There are many ladies in the world that have to have their breast(s) removed, but either they cannot afford a reconstructive surgery or they just do not want one. Breast prosthetics is one way to solve the boobie situation.

As a daughter of a mother who had mastectomy and later died from a cancer, I decided to make a video of crocheted boobie/prosthetic. This is one way to give my fellow crocheters a tool, which means a free pattern, so they can help their friends, family members, or any organization of their choice. 

See the free pattern further down below, OR if you would like to watch video instead, see 2 links just below:

Material:
Any WORSTED yarn  (#4 weight) (such as Impeccable or Vanna's Choice); 2 different colors = for example pink and light brown
Hook - 4 mm
polyfill
Scissors
Yarn needle

Gauge (double crochet stitches):
1"x1" = 4 st x 2 rows

Size:
approximately "C" cup

Abbreviations:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet
join - join with a slip stitch
prev. - previous
incl. - including
2dctog - 2 double crochet stitches together (decrease)
2hdctog - 2 half double crochet stitches together (decrease)
MC - main color (in my case pink)
CC - complimentary color (in my case light brown)
st, sts - stitch, stitches


Step-by-Step:

Make 1 or 2 boobies

BASE PART

Foundation: with CC create a magic circle

Row 1          into the magic circle - ch3, 12 dc, join (total ch3 + 12 sts)
Row 2          ch3, 2 dc in each consecutive stitch from prev row, join (total ch3 + 24 sts)
Row 3          ch3, *[1 dc in first st, 2 dc in second]* - repeat from * to *, join (total ch3 + 36 sts)
Row 4          ch3, *[2 dc into first st, 1 dc in each of 2 consecutive sts]* - repeat from * to *, join (total ch3 + 48 sts)


TOP PART

Foundation: with MC crochet 48 chain sts, join (do not twist!!)

Row 1          ch3, 1 dc into each chain sts, starting in the ch3, join (total  ch3 + 48 sts)
Row 2          ch3, *[1 dc in in each of 6 consecutive sts, 2 dctog]* - repeat from * to *, join (total ch3 + 42 sts)
Row 3          ch3, 1 dc in in each of 42 consecutive sts, join (total ch3 + 42 sts)
Row 4          ch3, *[2dctog, 1 dc in each of 2 consecutive sts]* - repeat from * to * until last 2 sts, then 2dctog, join (total ch3 + 31 sts)
Row 5          ch3, *[1 dc, 2dctog]* - repeat from * to * until last st, then 1 dc, join (total ch3 + 21)

Continue with CC

Row 6          ch1, *[2hdctog]* - repeat from * to * until last st, then make one more 2hdctog into last AND the base of first st, join (total ch1 + 11 sts)
Row 7          ch1, *[2hdctog]* - repeat from * to * 5x total, join (total ch1 + 5 sts)
Row 8          ch1, 1 sc st in each of 5 consecutive st, join

First weave in all the tails of both pieces. Then crochet or sew both pieces together 3/4 way. Fill it with polyfill and finish crocheting or sewing it. Weave in your last tail(s).

If you would like to make a smaller "B" cup size - use DK yarn (#3 weight) - see smaller boobies in the image below.

"C" cup prosthetics in the top part of the image
& difference between "B" cup and "C" cup in the lower part of the image 

************************************************************************

Other Crocheted Items you may want to check out

Crocheted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Three Summer Crocheted Hats For Babies
Crocheted Spring Hat (youth/adult)
Crocheted Hat With Raised Design (Youth)
Chicken Placemat For Kids
Simple Crocheted Headband
Simple Crocheted Coasters

Knits you may enjoy checking out:


Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

Knitting Project - Baby Jumper

Baby Jumper - knitting a leg part (see video tutorial)
I have been working on several projects at the same time. Recently I finished my three video tutorials for each -  right-handed and left handed crocheters:

Click on the links above to see these videos OR click on the these 2 links to see my "Granny Squares Video Playlist - 4 righties"  or "Granny Squares Video Playlist - 4 lefties" with several granny squares videos that I posted in my YouTube Channel.

Today I would like to tell you about my newest video (for lefties and righties) that I just posted on YouTube. This video will teach you a new pattern for a baby jumper and how to start knitting a leg part. So, if you are an advanced knitter and you have or know a baby that is three months old you may want to watch this video and perhaps knit along. I am demonstrating my knitting in both - Continental and English style ways.

Here are links to my compiled videos in PLAYLIST:

RIGHTIES, CLICK HERE, PLEASE

LEFTIES, CLICK HERE, PLEASE


And lastly - as I am working on the "baby jumper video",  I am also filming "how to crochet girl's summer dress", "how to knit bralette like blouse" and "a very simple brioche baby hat" as well. Plus I would like to "turn my crocheted Victorian Granny Squares into a long vest".

So, stay tuned for more videos that you can knit or crochet along with me. Thank you for your support and happy knitting and crocheting.


32B - Bralette

Sandy Beach Bralette - video tutorial
At the end of winter I asked my daughter: "What should I crochet for my video next?"
She respond it: "A bralette".
"What is a bralette?" I asked her. 
She responded: "Google it."

Well, when I googled it realized it is just a bra with the little bit of "fabric" around the body. Basically a bra for the beach.
I liked her idea very much. 

I looked at several images on the Internet to get some inspiration. The cups are usually done in a very similar style. So I sort of "copied" the cups for my bra that other people made. But I wanted to make the rest of the bra that is a little bit different than everybody else's. Yet I wanted to make it as simple as possible for my video. I went through my pattern books. Slept on it. Made few sketches. Did some math. 

Then I got to work - and I got very involved when I was videotaping it. I  made this Bralette as I was crocheting and videotaping it - kind of like a free form crochet - combination of my ideas penned on the paper and ideas from my head. If you want to make bralette and would like to crochet along my video, click on THIS LINK FOR IF YOU ARE A RIGHTIE, or you can click on THIS LINK IF YOU ARE A LEFTIE. It will keep you very cool in the summer. Maybe you will even make yourself a bottom and a skirt to go with it.

I didn't write the entire pattern - only for the bra cup part (see below).

If any one of my readers would like to write the "body part" down according to my video (as I am very busy and no time to do it) - I will give you a credit on my blog with a link to your blog (if you have one) or your Etsy store (if you have one) or credit your name - your choice.

Send me a message via my FB or via Google Plus


BRA CUP PATTERN ONLY

Material:
Any cotton/linen DK yarn  (#3 weight)
Hook #C - 2.75mm
Scissors

Gauge (half double crochet stitches):
1"x1" = 5 st x 3 rows

Size:
32B cup


Step-by-Step:

Make 2.
Foundation: crochet 14 chain stitches

Row 1          make 1 hdc into 3rd chain stitch; then 1 hdc into each of 10 stitches; make (2 hdc, ch1, 2hdc) into 12th stitch; make 1 hdc into each of 11 stitches on the other (opposite) side of the chain; turn
Row 2          make 1 hdc into each of next 13 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 13 stitches on the opposite side; turn
Row 3          make 1 hdc into each of next 15 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 15 stitches on the opposite side; turn
Row 4          make 1 hdc into each of next 17 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 17 stitches on the opposite side; turn
Row 5          make 1 hdc into each of next 19 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 19 stitches on the opposite side; turn
Row 6          make 1 hdc into each of next 21 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 21 stitches on the opposite side; turn
Row 7          make 1 hdc into each of next 23 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 23 stitches on the opposite side; turn
Row 8          make 1 hdc into each of next 25 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 25 stitches on the opposite side; turn
Row 9          make 1 hdc into each of next 27 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 27 stitches on the opposite side; turn
Row 10         make 1 hdc into each of next 29 stitches, make (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) into ch1 from previous row; continue making 1 hdc into each of 29 stitches on the opposite side


Crocheted Autumn Boots - Soles Up - Size 8-9

 New England in the Fall is enchanting. For about three weeks when leaves are changing and before they all fall to the ground it is an enormous pleasure to drive on any road. Anywhere you turn there is another gorgeously colored tree... Who would not like many shades of orange color, weaved in with yellows, evergreen greens, oak browns and maple reds. Thus the color choice for my "Autumn Boots".

For this project I chose an acrylic yarn, which is mostly used for afghans. See the free pattern below, and if you cannot follow the pattern you can follow my videos:






NOTE: I didn't check for any errors due to lack of time - if you find any, PLEASE LET ME KNOW SO I CAN FIX IT. It will be much appreciated. THANK YOU.

Materials:
Yarn - 3 skeins (1 brown = CC, 1 orange = MC) +Loops&Threads , Impeccable; medium weight #4; 268 yds (245 m);
Crochet Hook - G (4 mm)
scissors
sewing/yarn needle for weaving the ends in

Abbreviations:
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color
pm - place marker
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc incr - 2 double crochet sts in the same stitch
sc2tog - 2 single crochet together
dc2tog - 2 double crochets together
dc3tog - 3 double crochets together
hdc3tog - 3 half double crochet together
join - join into 3rd chain with slip stitch

Size:
Women's Size 8/9
the length of the espadrilles is 10", the widest part is 4.5"



Step-by-Step:

Make 2 boots

Soles: make 2 for each boot (total 4 soles)

color CC (brown)

Foundation: ch20 with CC

Rnd 1         ch3, 3 dc into 4th chain st from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch sts, 7 dc into next st; next crochet 1 dc in the next 18 sts on the opposite side of initial foundation chain, 3 dc in next st, join (total 50 sts)

Rnd 2         (crochet in rounds) ch 3, 1 dc, dc incr, 1 dc, dc incr, 1 dc in next 16 sts, dc incr, 1 dc, dc incr - 5x, 1 dc, dc incr, 1 dc in next 16 sts, dc incr, 1 dc, dc incr, 1 dc, 1 dc into same st as ch3, join (total 62 sts)

Rnd 3          ch3,  dc incr,  1 dc, dc incr,  1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, 1 dc in next 5 sts, *[dc incr,  1 dc]* - 3x; dc incr -2x,  *[1 dc, dc incr]* - 3x;  1 dc in next 5 sts, 1 hdc in next 12 sts, 1 dc in next 3 sts, dc incr, 1 dc, dc incr - 2x, 1 dc into same st as ch3,  join (total 76 sts)

Rnd 4         ch3, *[dc incr, 1 dc]* - 2x; 4 dc (1 in each sts), 15 hdc (1 in each sts), 4 dc (1 in each sts), *[dc incr,  1 dc]* - 4x;  2 dc (1 in each sts), *[1 dc, dc incr]* - 4x, 4 dc (1 in each sts), 15 hdc (1 in each sts), 4 dc (1 in each sts), *[1 dc, dc incr]* - 2x; 3 dc (1 in each sts),  join (total 88 sts)
join

Slip stitch two soles together - this will be a base for your boot:

  1. Place 2 soles with wrong side toward of each other, both right sides exposed
  2. Line up the stitches so they correspond with the middle
  3. With the same yarn from last finished sole and facing you, insert your hook through two stitches (that are above each other) of both soles, pull yarn through and make a slip stitch, then insert the hook through two stitches of both soles and pull yarn through and make another sl st - repeat all around the perimeter 
Note: you should have 88 slip stitches


Turn your work as to crochet in the opposite direction & crochet the boot part


Rnd 1           (MC) ch1, 85 sc, sc2tog, join (total 86 sc sts)
Rnd 2           (CC) ch1, 38 sc, sc2tog - 5x, 38 sc,  join (total 81 sc sts)

Note: from now on work with MC

Rnd 3            ch1, 30 sc, 5 hdc, 2 sc tog - 5x, 5 hdc, 30 sc, 2sctog, join (total 76 sts)
Rnd 4            ch1, 27 sc, 5 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 6 hdc, 27 sc, join (total 69 sts)
Rnd 5            ch1, 24 sc, 5 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 5 hdc, 24 sc, join (total 64 sts)
Rnd 6            ch1, 22 sc, 5 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 5 hdc, 22 sc, join (total 59 sts)
Rnd 7            ch1, 18 sc, 7 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 7 hdc, 18 sc, join (total 54 sts)
Rnd 8            ch1, 15 sc, 7 hdc, 2 dc tog - 5x, 7 hdc, 15 sc, join (total 49 sts)
Rnd 9            ch1, 12 sc, 6 hdc, 2 hdc tog, 2 dc tog - 5x, 2 hdc tog, 6 hdc, 12 sc, join (total 43 sts)
Rnd 10          ch1, 15 sc, 4 hdc, 2 hdc tog - 3x, 4 hdc, 15 sc, join (total 41 sts)
Rnd 11          ch1, 18 sc, 5 hdc, 18 sc, join (total 41 sts)

Use one or any combination of these four designs to build up the height of your boot - remember (or write down) the order of your designs, so you could crochet them in exactly same order on your second boot:

Design 1
Rnd 1          turn to work in the opposite direction (WS): ch2, 41 hdc, join (total 41 sts)
Rnd 2          turn to work in the opposite direction (RS): ch1, 41 extended sc, join (total 41 sts)

Design 2
Row 1         work on the RS: ch1, 41 sc, join
Row 2         turn to work in the opposite direction (WS): ch1, 41 sc, join (total 41 sts)
Row 3         keep working on the WS: ch2, 41 hdc, join

Design 3
Row 1         work on the RS: ch1, 41 sc, join
Row 2         turn to work in the opposite direction (WS): ch1, ch2, 41 hdc, join (total 41 sts)

Design 4
Row 1         work on the RS: ch2, 41 hdc, join
Row 2         work on the RS: ch2, 41 hdc, join
Row 3         turn to work in the opposite direction (WS): ch2, 41 hdc, join (total 41 sts)

Last two rows of boot - work with CC:

Row 1         work on the RS: ch1, 41 sc, join
Row 2         work on the RS: *[crochet 7 dc into 3rd, sl st into 3rd st]* - 7x; join - weave in all your ends

Straps - make either a long strap OR 2 short ones and 2 longer ones

Long Strap
With MC make as many chain sts as needed to wrap 2 times around the body of the boot. Starting at the 4th ch st make 1 dc into each chain st. When finished crochet around with back sc st using CC.

OR

Short Straps (make 2):
Foundation - ch23

Row 1          (MC) RS - 1 hdc into third st, 20 hdc, turn
Row 2-3       (MC) WS - ch2, 20 hdc, turn
Row 4           (CC) RS - ch1, crochet along the long side: 19 sc, 3 sc into 20th st (corner); crochet along the short side: 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc; continue working along the other long side: 3 sc into corner st, 20 sc
Row 5           (CC) RS - do not turn: work 21 back sc sts; turn - working on WS make 7 dc into 2ch st from prev row, turn;  work on RS 21 back sc sts
  
Longer Straps (make 2):
Foundation - ch26

Row 1          (MC) RS - 1 hdc into third st, 23 hdc, turn
Row 2-3       (MC) WS - ch2, 23 hdc, turn
Row 4           (CC) RS - ch1, crochet along the long side: 33 sc, 3 sc into 20th st (corner); crochet along the short side: 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc; continue working along the other long side: 3 sc into corner st, 23 sc
Row 5           (CC) RS - do not turn: work 24 back sc sts; turn - working on WS make 7 dc into 2ch st from prev row, turn;  work on RS 24 back sc sts

Finishing:

Wrap around With the RS facing you, sew the short straps on the inside of the boot right below the fan, then sew the longer one right below the short strap. Sew on buttons. Do the same for the other boot. Weave in the rest ot the ends.


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To SUBSCRIBE To My Video Channel and scroll through many videos

Click HERE

Other Crocheted Items you may want to check out

Crocheted Hat for AGD Or Preemie Baby - Be My Valentine
Crocheted Slippers (adult)
Crocheted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Three Summer Crocheted Hats For Babies
Crocheted Spring Hat (youth/adult)
Crocheted Hat With Raised Design (Youth)
Chicken Placemat For Kids
Simple Crocheted Headband
Simple Crocheted Coasters

Knits you may enjoy checking out:


Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

"Jaded" Diaper Cover For Newborn Boys - Easy Project

Just an idea how diaper cover may look like
with small "manly" buttons
In the past I have knitted couple of diaper covers/soakers. One such diaper cover can be found HERE (including a video) and the other can be found HERE. Both include a free written pattern.

But today, I would like to share with all of my crochet virtual friends another free written pattern - my newest (and fairly easy) diaper cover project (plus two videos - one for right-handed and one for left-handed crochet artisans).

As you see, I worked with a yarn in the color that resembles a stone Jade, which is an emperor's gem. I love the idea that it represents benevolence, honesty, wisdom, integrity and bravery - great iconographics about it HERE - which is actually quite interesting. I would like to mention also that the yarn is soft and I love the fact that it is a blend of two natural fibers - cotton and merino wool.

This pattern is textured, yet simple enough for someone that is seasoned beginner. My video will help those that are slightly inexperienced but have courage to push themselves a little further. As for the experienced ones - it is a very easy and fast project.

You can make it in any color to accommodate both genders. You could also "play" with two colors to make it even more interesting, such as crochet around with an off white yarn. This pattern could be unisex - if you make it in a different color with a different style edging - even girls could wear it.






Size:
Newborn

Measurements:
Waist - 14.5” (buttons can be moved to accommodate a larger waist)
Rise - 14” (measured from the top of the diaper in front all the way to the top of the diaper in back)


Material:
Brown Sheep Co., Cotton Fleece, Color "Jubilant Jade", 215 yds/197 m, 80% cotton/20% Merino
Hook size G (4 mm)
Small Buttons
Scissors
Yarn Needle
Sewing Needle




Abbreviations:
ch - chain
hdc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
st(s) - stitch(es)
sl st - slip stitch
prev. - previous

Gauge:
single crochet stitches
4" x 4" = 18 st x 10 rows



Step-by-Step:

Foundation: ch60

Row 1               1 hdc into 3rd ch, then 1 hdc into each ch to end
Row 2               ch2, 1 hdc through the front loop of the each st from prev. row (total ch2 + 58 hdc)
Row 3               ch2, 1 hdc in next st, *[1 dc around front post of hdc below next st, 1 hdc into next 2 consecutive sts]* - repeat to end

Repeat Rows 2 & 3  three (3) more times (Rows 4-9)

Row 10              same as Row 2, fasten off your yarn

Place marker into each 18th st counted from each end. You will work in the middle. Working on the RIGHT SIDE of the diaper cover start at the 19th st with ch2. This will be your Row 11. You will work with 23 sts, ending with 2 hdc sts, in which last hdc st will be placed in the place of second marker.

Place markers as shown in the image


Row 11              same as Row 3
Row 12              same as Row 2

Repeat Rows 11 & 12  eleven (11) more times (Rows 13-34)

Finish crocheting around the perimeter of the entire diaper cover with a back single crochet stitch. (Watch my video how to do it). Weave in the ends. Sow on small buttons that can fit into the spaces where the double first double crochet stitches are.

The right side of the diaper cover - crocheted around with back single crochet stitches

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To SUBSCRIBE To My Video Channel and scroll through many videos

Click HERE

Other Crocheted Items you may want to check out

Crocheted Hat for AGD Or Preemie Baby - Be My Valentine
Crocheted Slippers (adult)
Crocheted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Three Summer Crocheted Hats For Babies
Crocheted Spring Hat (youth/adult)
Crocheted Hat With Raised Design (Youth)
Chicken Placemat For Kids
Simple Crocheted Headband
Simple Crocheted Coasters

Knits you may enjoy checking out:


Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE


Knitted Vest - Size S/M


Making a vest doesn't have to be hard. It can be done in a simple way and it can be a quick project too. All you have to do is buy a very thick yarn - that way you can cast on less stitches and you will knit less rows - a quite fast project, don't you think so? Also a very good project for people who just recently started to knit and know how to cast on, knit 2 stitches together, slip stitches, bind off and know what i-cord is.

If you will work on this project get a yarn that has an interesting color or texture. And then all you have to do is knit it with a knit stitch only (garter stitch).

If you have a yarn with a nice color or texture you do not need fancy design. The color or texture will give your vest an interesting look. After you sew pieces together add a nice edge. You will get a lots of compliments on your stylish outfit. I sure do wherever I go. People ask me: "Did you make that great looking vest?"

Below is a FREE pattern for you OR you can watch my playlist how to knit this vest - it has 5 videos.

If you are a RIGHT-handed knitter CLICK ON THIS LINK
If you are a LEFT-handed knitter CLICK ON THIS LINK

Material:
Very bulky yarn #6 - 4-5 skeins for the vest, 1/2-1 skein for the edging
Knitting needles #15, 10mm
Scissors

Gouge (garter stitch):
4"x4" = 8 sts x 16 rows

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
k2tog - knit two stitches together
ssk - slip slip & then knit two stitches together through the back loop
sts - stitches
BO - bind off




Step-by-Step Directions:

Back Part

Row 1-50          K40
Row 51              BO 2 sts; K
Row 52              BO 2 sts; K
Row 53-90         K36
Row 91               BO 6 sts, K29
Row 92               BO 6 sts, K11

Make two front parts - Front A & Front B

Front A Part

Foundation: cast on 20 stitches.

Row 1-50           K20
Row 51              BO 2 sts; K14 (or until last 3 sts), ssk, K1,
Row 52-56         K17
Row 57              K14, ssk, K1
Row 58-62         K16
Row 63              K13, ssk, K1
Row 64-68         K15
Row 69              K12, ssk, K1
Row 70-74         K14
Row 75              K11, ssk, K1
Row 76-80         K13
Row 81              K10, ssk, K1
Row 82-90         K12

Shape the shoulder area

Row 91                BO 6 sts, K5
Row 92                K6
Row 93                BO 6 sts

Front B Part

Foundation: cast on 20 stitches.

Row 1-50           K20
Row 51              K1, k2tog, K17
Row 52              BO 2 sts, K16
Row 53-56         K17
Row 57               K1, k2tog, K14
Row 58-62          K16
Row 63               K1, k2tog, K13
Row 64-68          K15
Row 69               K1, k2tog, K12
Row 70-74          K14
Row 75               K1, k2tog, K11
Row 76-80          K13
Row 81               K1, k2tog, K10
Row 82-91          K12

Shape the shoulder area

Row 92                BO 6 sts, K5
Row 93                K6
Row 94                BO 6 sts

Knit an i-cord around the entire edge and around the arm holes. See my video if you do not know how to do that.


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Knits you may enjoy checking out:


Cerulean Hat
Poncho
Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)


If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE


Emerald Isle Socks - size US 7-8

Simple Socks With Short Rows Heel
When I was a teenager my mother taught me how to knit socks. The socks that I made had knitted heels that were made with short rows.
My socks were made from a thicker yarn. It was easy to learn on a yarn that was meant to be for sweaters. I did not have to knit as many stitches yet I was able to learn how to knit the heel part and the toe part. They were not perfect at first but I was very proud of how the shaping came out. After that I made many socks for friends and family.
After I came to the United States I realized that there are different ways, more complex,  to knit the sock heels.
However, I still go back to the way my mom taught me. It seems much easier than other types of heels. It is one of the best ways to learn to knit socks. When a person accomplishes the easy way then he/she can progress onto more complex ways and designs.
Below you will find a  simple, free and very detailed pattern for medium sized socks, which would fit feet approximately 8.5" - 9.5" long. This pattern is very simple - great for anyone who wants to learn how to knit socks. I made a video (it has 3 parts - the cuff, the heel and the toe) for Righties and Lefties.








Material:
  • Brown Sheep Co., Wildfoote, Luxury Sock Yarn; 75% Washable Wool/25% Nylon; 215 yds (197 m); 1.75 oz (50 gr) 
  • Knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm) and #2 (2.75 mm)
  • Scissors

Gouge (stockinette stitch):
  • on knitting needles #1 (2.25 mm) - 1"x1" = 7 sts x 10 rows
  • on knitting needles #2 (2.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 6 sts x 9 rows

Size:

These socks are approximately for ankles that are about 8" around. Each 4 extra stitches will add 0.75". Therefore, if your ankles are thicker than 8", add 4 or 8 or 12 extra stitches when casting on. Which should produce socks with ankle measurements of 8.75" or 9.5" or 10.25".

Abbreviation:

CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
K2tog - knit two stitches together

SSK - slip slip and then knit them together through the back loop

RS - right side

WS - wrong side

st(s) - stitch(es)

Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2.

Foundation: on knitting needles # 2 (2.75 mm) cast on 52 stitches

The Cuff

Row 1          *[K2, P2]* - 13x, then move your stitches onto knitting needles # 1 (2.25 mm) and distribute the stitches evenly, among all three DPNs, without twisting your knitt connect them into a circle
I worked my cuff on knitting needles # 1 (2.25 mm). Make your cuff as long as you want.
I knitted my cuff 3" long in K2/P2 ribbing.

Row 2-30      *[K2, P2]* - 13x

Start knitting with knitting needles # 2 (2.75 mm)
Then I knitted 1/2" in stockinette stitch.

Row 31-45      K52

Forming The Heel

Before you start knitting 46th row move 26 stitches on the needle #1, 13 stitches on the needle #2 and 13 stitches on the needle #3. To form your heel you will work with 26 stitches on the needle #1 and you will use also a knitting needle #4, therefore you will work with two knitting needles, leaving needles #2 and #3 alone.

Row 46           (RS) K8, pm, K10, pm, K7 (you knitted 25 sts), leave 26th stitch on your left needle and  turn your work to knit on wrong side
Row 47           (WS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 25 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P23 (to 1 st before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 48           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 25 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K22 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 49           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 24 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P21 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 50           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 24 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K20 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 51           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P19 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 52           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K18 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 53           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P17 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 54           (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K16 (to 5 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 55           (WS - now you have 5 sts on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P15 (to 5 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 56           (RS - now you have 5 st on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K14 (to 6 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 57           (WS - now you have 6 sts on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P13 (to 6 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 58           (RS - now you have 6 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K12 (to 7 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 59           (WS - now you have 7 sts on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P11 (to 7 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side

Now we will start adding stitches on both,  the right and wrong, sides back again

Row 1           (RS - now you have 7 st on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K10 (to 8 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 18th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 19th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 19th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 2           (WS - now you have 7 sts on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P10 (to 8 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 18th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 19th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 19th st together;
turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 3           (RS - now you have 7 st on the right needle and 19 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K11 (to 7 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 19th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 20th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 20th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 4           (WS - now you have 6 sts on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P12 (to 7 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 19th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 20th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 20th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 5           (RS - now you have 6 st on the right needle and 20 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K13 (to 6 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 20th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 21th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 21st st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 6           (WS - now you have 5 sts on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P14 (to 6 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 20th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 21st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 21th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 7           (RS - now you have 5 st on the right needle and 21 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K15 (to 5 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 21st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 22nd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 22nd st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 8           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P16 (to 5 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 21st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 22nd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 22nd st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 9           (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 22 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K17 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 22st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 23rd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 23rd st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 10           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P18 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 22nd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 23rd st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 23rd st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 11           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 23 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K19 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 23rd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 24th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 23rd st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 12           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 24 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P20 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 23rd stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 24th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 24th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 13           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 24 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K21 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 24th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 25th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 25th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 14           (WS - now you have 1 sts on the right needle and 25 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P22 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 24th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 25th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 25th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
Row 15           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 25 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K23 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a horizontal strand between your 25th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 26th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 26th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
Row 16           (WS - now you have all 26 sts on one needle only) With yarn in front sl st first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P24 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch  - pick a horizontal strand between your 25th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 26th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 25th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side

The Foot Area

From now on you will work on the right side in the round again

Row 1            sl st first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, K25; now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your 26th and 27th stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 27th st together; K25

Row 2           now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your last knitted  and your 1st stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 1st st together, K51

Row 3-40    K52

Toe Area

Row 41       *[K2tog, K22, SSK]* - 2x
Row 42       K48
Row 43       *[K2tog, K20, SSK]* - 2x
Row 44       K44
Row 45       *[K2tog, K18, SSK]* - 2x
Row 46       K40
Row 47       *[K2tog, K14, SSK]* - 2x
Row 48       K36
Row 49       *[K2tog, K10, SSK]* - 2x
Row 50       K32
Row 51       *[K2tog, K8, SSK]* - 2x
Row 52       K28
Row 53       *[K2tog, K6, SSK]* - 2x
Row 55       K24
Row 55       *[K2tog, K4, SSK]* - 2x
Row 56       K20

Move stitches from a needle #2 onto needle #1 and stitches from a needle #3 onto needle #4. Use Kitchener stitch to seam two sets of live stitches (10 sts & 10 sts) invisibly. See my detailed video how to do the Kitchener stitch.

If you find any errors, please let me know - click HERE

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Knits you may enjoy checking out:


Cerulean Hat
Poncho
Knitted Long Basic Mittens (adult)
Basic Knitted Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Knitted Striped Fingerless Gloves (adult)
Charcoal Hat With Rolled Up Edge (youth/adult)
Spring To Fall Lacy Hat (youth/adult)