HAND MADE - RUKODELKY

SOCKS FOR 9 INCH LONG FOOT - WITH CAST ON 56 STITCHES

This is my standard, simple sock pattern, where I knit the heel and the toe area with a complementary color. For my complimentary color, I use usually a leftover sock yarn of the same thickness. In these socks, I also added a stripe in my ribbing for an extra effect.

I love my sock cuff to be knitted long, and stretchy all the way down to my ankles - to keep my leg warm.

If you would like to watch my sock musings - HERE IS THE VIDEO that I recorded for my New Year 2022. In it, I talk about these particular socks as well.

I also have SOCK playlists:

For RIGHT HANDED-KNITTERS HERE

and for LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS HERE

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

Material:

Approximately 400 m of any combination sock yarn; I used one ball of MC - Mayflower 1 Class, 75% Wool/25% Nylon, 210 m, 50 grams; for CC I used leftovers of ONline, Supersocke 100, Color - Savanne, Fingering, 75% Wool/25% Polyamide - about 140 m (total 420 m/100 grams in the ball)
DPNs, or long Circulars Knitting Needles #2 (2.75 mm) - if you knit loosely then 2.5mm needles
Scissors
Yarn Needle (for Kitchener Stitch & for weaving in the tails)

Size:

Shoe size: ~ US size 7-8
Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is 5"(unstretched) to ~10" (stretched)
Ribbing (Cuff) Height: 6.75” or make your preferred height
Heel Flap: 2.25" (reinforced flap - 28 rows)
Sole width: 4” flat; (circumference is ~ 8”)
Length of the sole heel to toe: 9” (you can make it longer if you chose so)

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 2"x2" = 15 sts x 21 rows

Make 2 identical socks.

Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 56 stitches

The Cuff

Rnd 1 *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle, start knitting in the round

Rnd 2-70 *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff really tall, about 7.5" tall

Do not cut off MC - you will continue working with it on the gusset and part of your sock after you are finished with Turning The Heel.

The Heel Flap

NOTE: For the Heel Flap & Turning The Heel I used CC.

If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needle #1 -28 sts, needles #2 and #3 - 14 sts each. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided to 28 + 28 between your magic loops. Work on your first 28 sts (needle #1) only, back and forth (NOT in the round) as such:

Row 1 (RS) *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end, turn
Row 2 (WS) *[K1, wyb-slPst]* - repeat to last 2 sts, then K1, P1

Repeat these 2 rows thirteen more times (total 14x = 28 rows)

Turning The Heel (row by row)

Keep working your sock with CC back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.

Row 1     (RS) sl. 1st st, K15, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2        (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 3     (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4        (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5        (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6        (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7        (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8        (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9        (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10       (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11       (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK, (0 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12       (WS) sl. 1st st, P14, P2tog, (0 sts left on the needle), fasten off yarn (16 sts)

The Gusset (in the round)

Note: For the gusset and the part of the foot (excluding the toe area), use MC color.
You will work from now on RS only in the round.

You should have 16 sts on your needle #1, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. Note: If you are knitting on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you are using circular needles insert markers between the 17-16-17-28 sts (while you're picking up your stitches on the side) to keep track of your sections.

You will proceed as such:

N1 - turn your sock sideways and pick up 17 stitches with MC along the first side - distribute these 17 sts evenly, making sure there are no "holes" between the needles; (this will be the BEGINNING of the row now)
N2 - then knit 16 sts; (the "turning the heel stitches")
N3 - turn your sock sideways and pick up 17 stitches along the second side - distribute these 17 sts evenly; (second side of the flap)
N4 - then K28; (top of the foot - combined needles #2 & #3);

Note: You should have 78 sts total. Now, we have to decrease stitches on both sides of your flap to get back to 56 sts total on all four needles (or on your circular needles). Do it as such:

Rnd 1           (N1) SSK, K15; (N2) K16; (N3) K15, K2tog; (N4) K28 (76 sts)
Rnd 2   (N1) SSK, K14; (N2) K16; (N3) K14, K2tog; (N4) K28 (74 sts)
Rnd 3   (N1) SSK, K13; (N2) K16; (N3) K13, K2tog; (N4) K28 (72 sts)
Rnd 4   (N1) SSK, K12; (N2) K16; (N3) K12, K2tog; (N4) K28 (70 sts)
Rnd 5   (N1) SSK, K11; (N2) K16; (N3) K11, K2tog; (N4) K28 (68 sts)
Rnd 6        (N1) SSK, K10; (N2) K16; (N3) K10, K2tog; (N4) K28 (66 sts)
Rnd 7   (N1) SSK, K9; (N2) K16; (N3) K9, K2tog; (N4) K28 (64 sts)
Rnd 8   (N1) SSK, K8; (N2) K16; (N3) K8, K2tog; (N4) K28 (62 sts)
Rnd 9        (N1) SSK, K7; (N2) K16; (N3) K7, K2tog; (N4) K28 (60 sts)
Rnd 10   (N1) SSK, K6; (N2) K16; (N3) K6, K2tog; (N4) K28 (58 sts)
Rnd 11   (N1) SSK, K5; (N2) K16; (N3) K5, K2tog; (N4) K28 (56 sts)

The Foot Part

Note: If you need to, reshuffle your stitches on your DPNs for ease of knitting. Each of my DPN had 14 sts. If you are knitting on circular needles, put a marker in the beginning and after 28th st. Knit as many rows as needed - for US foot size 7.5 I knitted 50 rows.

Rnd 1-44 K56

Note: Before you will start your toe part knit 6 rows with CC color (or a few more if you need your socks a tad longer). Then keep knitting the Toe Part with CC.

Rnd 45-50 (CC) K56

The Toe Part

Rnd 1                 *[K2, K2tog, K20, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 2-3     K52
Rnd 4       *[K2, K2tog, K18, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 5-6      K48
Rnd 7                *[K2, K2tog, K16, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 8-9        K44
Rnd 10               *[K2, K2tog, K14, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 11-12       K40
Rnd 13       *[K2, K2tog, K12, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 14              K36
Rnd 15       *[K2, K2tog, K10, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 16           K32
Rnd 17           *[K2, K2tog, K8, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 18           *[K2, K2tog, K6, SSK, K2]* - 2x (24 sts)

To Finish Each Sock:

Move the first 12 sts onto one DPN, then move the last 12 sts onto another DPN, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. Then wear it or gift it.

My Other Project:

TINY HAT AND SOCKS FOR NEWBORN TWINS

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

SOCKS FOR 10 PLUS INCH FOOT - WITH CAST ON 64 STITCHES

My daughter asked me for another pair of socks for a friend. I decided to use my leftover sock yarn - all in all, the leftovers came up to about a little less than 2 balls (2 different kinds of yarn).
My daughter told me that the shoe size of this young lady is 11. Since they are living very far from me and didn't have measurements of my daughter's friend's feet, I had to do some research on how approximately long these socks need to be. And I just second-guessed how wide the socks could most likely be. After much of thinking and poking around the internet, I decided to start socks on 64 sts. The socks are knitted like the "Simple Socks For Gentlemen - Shoe Size 13" - however, I tweaked the number of rows and decreases a bit, and changed the decreases in the toe area a little (made it more round instead of angular.)
Oh yes and don't forget to check my YouTube Channel also - plenty of other detailed videos there.

In the meantime knit some socks for your daughters, sons, other family members, friends... If you need help, see the video for reference. More videos will be posted on my Youtube channel in the future.
(If you see any error on this page - contact me via social media on the left - txs)

SOME HELPFUL VIDEOS:

RIGHT HANDED-KNITTERS HERE
LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS HERE

Material:

MC - 1 & 1/4 leftover ball of Patons, KROY Socks; 75% Washable Wool - 25% Nylon; 166 yds (152 m); 1.75 oz (50 gr), color: Blue Striped Rag - total yarn usage approx 200 m
CC - A leftover ball of Drops Design, FABEL Uni Colour, Superwash Treated Sock Wool; 75% Wool - 25% Polyamide; 224 yds (205 m); 1.8 oz (50 gr), color: medium blue #103
DPNs, or long Circulars Knitting Needles #2 (2.75 mm) - if you knit loosely then 2.5mm needles
Scissors
Yarn Needle (for Kitchener Stitch & for weaving in the tails)

Size:

Shoe size: ~ US size 10-11
Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is ~4.5"(unstretched) to ~10" (stretched)
Ribbing (Cuff) Height: 5.5”
Heel Flap: ~2.25"
Sole width: 4” flat; (circumference is ~ 8”)
Length of the sole heel to toe: ~10” (you can make it longer if you chose so)

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 8 sts x 11 rows

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively

Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2.

Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 64 stitches

The Cuff

I knitted the initial 7 rows with CC yarn, then I switched to MC yarn.

Rnd 1-7 (CC) *[K1, P1]* - to the end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle

Rnd 8-50 (MC) *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff about 5.5" long.
Note: Do not cut off your MC yarn, you will continue with it after you are finished with your heel flap and turning heel.

The Heel Flap

For the heel flap, I used CC yarn.
If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needle #1 -32 sts, needles #2 and #3 - 16 sts each. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided into 32 + 32 between your magic loops. Use markers if needed.

Row 1-20 Work on your first 32 sts only back and forth (NOT in the round) - *[K1, P1]* - to the end (of each row)

Note: This heel is not reinforced with slip stitches thus only 20 rows.

Turning The Heel (row by row)

Keep working your sock back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.

Row 1 (RS) sl. 1st st, K17, SSK, K1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2 (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn

Row 3 (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4 (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5 (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6 (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7 (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8 (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9 (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10 (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11 (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12 (WS) sl. 1st st, P15, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn

Row 13 (RS) sl. 1st st, K16, SSK, turn
Row 14 (WS) sl. 1st st, P16 to last 2 sts , P2tog, (total 18 sts on the needle)

The Gusset (round by round)

Note: you will work from now on RS only in the round. Use MC from now on until the toe area.

You should finish with 18 sts on your needle, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. You will proceed as such:

turn your sock sideways and pick up 13 stitches along the first side using a knitting needle and your MC color yarn;
then K18 (the "turning the heel stitches")
pick up another 13 sts along the other side of the flap
then K32 sts - you should have now 76 stitches on your needles, distributed as such: N1(this will be the BEGINNING of the row) - 13 sts (= first side of the flap); N2 - 18 sts (from turning the heel); N3 - 13 sts (= second side of the flap); N4 - 36 sts (top of the foot)

Note: If you are knitting on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you are using circular needles insert markers between the 13-18-13-36 sts to keep track of your work.

Now we have to decrease some stitches on both sides of your flap to get back to 64 sts total on our needles - we will do that by decreasing while working on our gusset.

Let's start with Rnd 1 on the side using MC (from the cuff)

Rnd 1      (N1) SSK, K11; (N2) K18; (N3) K11, K2tog; (N4) K32 (74)
Rnd 2        K74
Rnd 3      (N1) SSK, K10; (N2) K18; (N3) K10, K2tog; (N4) K32 (72)
Rnd 4     K72
Rnd 5      (N1) SSK, K9; (N2) K18; (N3) K9, K2tog; (N4) K32 (70)
Rnd 6     K70
Rnd 7      (N1) SSK, K8; (N2) K18; (N3) K8, K2tog; (N4) K32 (68)
Rnd 8     K68
Rnd 9      (N1) SSK, K7; (N2) K18; (N3) K7, K2tog; (N4) K32 (66)
Rnd 10     K66
Rnd 11      (N1) SSK, K6; (N2) K18; (N3) K6, K2tog; (N4) K32 (64)

The Foot Part

Let's start with Rnd 1 again for ease of counting.

Rnd 1-60 K64

The Toe Part

Switch yarn color to CC. Let's start with Rnd 1

Rnd 1 *[K2tog, K28, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 2 K60
Rnd 3 *[K2tog, K26, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 4 K56
Rnd 5 *[K2tog, K24, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 6 K52
Rnd 7 *[K2tog, K22, SSK]* - 2x; (48 sts)
Rnd 8 *[K2tog, K20, SSK]* - 2x; (44 sts)
Rnd 9 *[K2tog, K18, SSK]* - 2x; (40 sts)
Rnd 10 *[K2tog, K16, SSK]* - 2x; (36 sts)
Rnd 11 *[K2tog, K14, SSK]* - 2x; (32 sts)
Rnd 12 *[K2tog, K12, SSK]* - 2x; (28 sts)
Rnd 13 *[K2tog, K10, SSK]* - 2x; (24 sts)

To Finish Each Sock:

Combine the first 12 sts on one needle, then combine the last 12 sts on another needle, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. Then wear it or gift it.

My Other Project:

TINY HAT AND SOCKS FOR NEWBORN TWINS

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

BEEHIVE SWEATER

I knew this project would take a long time to finish when I started it at the end of Spring. Not only because knitting cables is more time-consuming than just simple knitting, but I tend to start other projects as well. So, if you want to knit this "Beehive Sweater," give yourself ample time to finish it on time. If you want to knit the sweater, you need to know how to cast on, how to knit "knit" and "purl" stitches, C4F and C4B stitches, and how to bind off.

If you are attempting to knit cables for the first time, do not despair. I have several videos grouped into a playlist for this project. Yes, my videos can be lengthy at times. But if you feel you understand what I am demonstrating, skip those parts. And if you don't understand, what is happening, play the video again. I hope you will find these videos helpful.

I knitted this sweater in a rectangle way. (See the diagram below). Sleeves can be knitted as rectangles or tapered. You decide if you want them wide, or more narrow around the wrist area.

I also would like to talk about how you can size this sweater. It seems that 12 rows and 16 stitches both measure three inches (3"). So, from this knowledge, draw a plan of how wide and long your sweater should be. Don't forget to consider that if you wash your finished sweater, it may stretch - my small size turned into nearly a medium size. However, my daughter loves this oversized and cozy gift. The sleeves are longer than I anticipated. I suggested to my daughter that I would shorten them - it would be no problem since they are knitted from the shoulder down toward the wrist. However, she refused me to fix "the problem." So with this knowledge, you can decide how many repeat cables in rows and stitches you prefer. Also, consider having the sweater dry cleaned.

Now, let me talk a little about the head opening. In the video, I am demonstrating the binding off 44 stitches. You can also see that I had to rip it because the head opening was too big (it would, most likely, work better for a larger person). Instead, the second time around, I bound off 36 stitches. (See the image above of how it looks after I washed the sweater). I feel it would be even better if I bound off 28 stitches, but my daughter loves it as it is. The binding off 28 stitches, few shoulder rows, and casting on 28 stitches would make the head opening hug the neck area, yet it would have enough space to pull the sweater over the head. So again, using this information, you can tailor your project to any person's body and what the person prefers.

I doubled the strands because I didn't have any chunky yarn at hand. However, I had nearly 2 kilos of Knit Picks DK Merino. You may replace it with chunky yarn if you wish. Perhaps you would love to use light and fluffy (chunky) yarn instead of merino. Then all you have to do is a swatch to make sure you will size your work correctly.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS

"BEEHIVE SWEATER" - PLAYLIST 4 LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS

STAY TUNED for the "Half-Balls" pattern (you can see them on the model in the design above). The remaining videos will be added as I finish editing them. ENJOY and share your work 😉🙂🌸

Size: Small (oversized), or Medium (more fitting)

Material:

Yarn - 16 skeins of KNIT PICKS, Bare - DOUBLED; Colors: Natural; DK (#3); 100% Merino; 246 yds/100g; (12 skeins for a sweater, and 4 skeins for 1/2 balls)
Knitting needles (straights, circulars, DPNs) #11 (8 mm)
Markers
Hook 6 mm
Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

st, sts - stitch, stitches
M - marker

C4F - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in front of your knitting

C4B - make 2/2 cable while holding 2 sts on the cable needle in the back of your knitting

CCO - cable cast-on

BO - bind off

Cable Stitch Pattern Repeat

Gauge (cable):

3"x 3" = 16 sts x 12 rows

Step-by-Step Directions:

FRONT PART

CO 108 sts

Row 1 *[K4, P4]* - 13x, K4, turn
Row 2 *[P4, K4]* - 13x, P4, turn

Repeat Row 1 & 2 two more times (Row 3-6)

Note: From now on use knit sts only for the cables (knit sts on the right side, purl sts on the wrong side)

Row 7          K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #1)
Row 8          P108
Row 9          K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11         K108
Row 12         P108

Row 13     K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2 (CABLE ROW #2)
Row 14         P108
Row 15         K108
Row 16         P108
Row 17         K108
Row 18         P108

Repeat Rows 7-18 as many times as needed. I repeated these twelve rows 7x in total before starting my shoulder area. If you would like your sweater longer repeat Rows 7-18 one or more extra times.

Then repeat rows 7-13 again as such:

Row 7          K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 8          P108
Row 9          K108
Row 10          P108
Row 11         K108
Row 12         P108

Row 13 K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 13x, K2

Then continue your front as such (NECK AREA RIBBING):

Row 14        K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x, P4, K36, turn
Row 15        P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x, K4, P36, turn
Row 16       K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x, P4, K36, turn
Row 17        P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x, K4, P36, turn
Row 18       K36, *[P4, K4]* - 4x, P4, K36, turn
Row 19        P36, *[K4, P4]* - 4x, K4, P36, turn

Work on the head opening = BO stitches in the middle as such:

Row 1 K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, next C4F - BUT knit only the 2 back (purl) sts !! and BO 2 knit sts; then BO 32 sts, THEN start your C4B - but BO 2 knit sts, then BO 1 purl st and knit 1 back (purl) sts (these two sts will be part of your shoulder, 36 sts); finish the row with *[C4F, C4B]* - 4x, and K2, turn

At this point, you will turn your work around and work on the first shoulder part.

SHOULDER #1

Row 2         P36
Row 3        K36
Row 4         P36
Row 5 K36
Row 6 P36
Row 7           K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8         P36
Row 9        K36

DO NOT FASTEN OFF (don't cut off your yarn).

With a different skein work on the second shoulder.

SHOULDER #2

Row 2         start working on the wrong side - attach a different skein; P36
Row 3        K36
Row 4         P36
Row 5 K36
Row 6 P36
Row 7           K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 4x, K2
Row 8         P36
Row 9        K36

BACK PART

Continue working on your back part starting with the yarn on Shoulder #1:

Row 10 P36, CCO 36 sts, P36 sts from Shoulder #2 (Note: put a marker in this row on each side - this will be the middle mark for your future sleeves.)
Row 11 K108
Row 12 P108

Starting with Row 13 - repeat Cable Rows 7-18 (= "12-Row Repeat") from FRONT PART eight times (8x) in total.
(If you knitted your front longer than the written pattern for the front, knit as many EXTRA "row repeats" as you did for the front part.)

After you knit your last "12-Row Repeat" finish your BACK PART with the last cable row and then 4/4 ribbing as such:

Row 1         K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 13x, K2
Row 2         *[K4, P4]* - 13x, K4, turn
Row 3         *[P4, K4]* - 13x, P4, turn
Row 4         *[K4, P4]* - 13x, K4, turn
Row 5         *[P4, K4]* - 13x, P4, turn
Row 6         *[K4, P4]* - 13x, K4, turn
Row 7         BO all sts, fasten off

SLEEVES - make 2 (one on each side of the sweater)

There are 4 ways to make your sleeves.

Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them in the round (use either DPNs or circulars)
Cast your stitches directly onto your front and back parts, then knit them back and forth
Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a knitting needle and knit them back and forth
Knit them separately - cast your 78 stitches onto a circular needle (or DPN) and knit them in the round

If you choose to work back and forth (as in #2 & #3 ways), you will follow all odd rows (1, 3, 5.... etc) as written below. All your even rows (2, 4, 6... etc.) will be worked on the wrong side, which means you will purl every even row, except the 4/4 ribbing.

Cast on 78 stitches along the side of your front/back part. The middle of the sleeve width should correspond with the row where you casted-on for the back part and where you put your marker. You should CO 39 sts from the front and 39 sts from the back into EVERY row. (The tightness of the cable pattern makes the cast on nicely even and flat. There is no need to skip or add stitches. The seam should not be warped or pulling.)

This sleeve pattern is for knitting in the round. Sleeves come out long. If you want them shorter you may adjust your rows.

After you CO your 78 sts, start knitting in the round (on DPNs or Circular needles) as such:

Rnd 1-3 K78

Rnd 4                   K3, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 5-9                K78
Rnd 10              K3, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K3
Rnd 11-14         K78
Rnd 15              (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K72, SSK, K1 (76 sts)

Rnd 16                K2, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 17-21           K76
Rnd 22             K2, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K2
Rnd 23-26         K76
Rnd 27             (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K70, SSK, K1 (74 sts)

Rnd 28                 K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 29-33             K74
Rnd 34            K1, *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 35-39 K74
Rnd 40 K1, *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x, K1
Rnd 41-44 K74
Rnd 45 (decrease row) K1, K2tog, K68, SSK, K1(72 sts)

Rnd 46 *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 47-51 K72

Rnd 52                  *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 53-57             K72
Rnd 58            *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 59-63         K72

Rnd 64              *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 65-69             K72
Rnd 70              *[C4F, C4B]* - 9x
Rnd 71-75         K72

Rnd 76 *[C4B, C4F]* - 9x
Rnd 77-83 *[K2, P4, K2]* - 9x

Rnd 84 BO

Finishing:

Sew/crochet sides (= back to front) together, and weave in all the ends. If you desire, you could crochet half-balls (video coming soon), or buy acrylic pom-poms, and sew/tie them into the "dimples" between the cables.

CROCHETED HALF BALLS

Double the yarn.

To start: leave about 1 foot long tail, then wrap yarn around your index and middle finger (make magic loop) and croche into the loop as such: ch2, then make 7 (or eight) unfinished dc (only half way through) - you shoud have 8 (or nine) loops on your hook; then pull yarn through all 8 (9) loops, and make last chain (or rather knot). Pull on the yarn tight. Leaving second tail about 1 foot.

To finish - either color the "half balls" while still flat, OR pull on the first tail (the magic loop tail) to form the half ball and color then.

As soon as I have this video edited you will be able to see it in the playlist above.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

QUICK KNITTED CAPLET

Capelet - a small cape covering the shoulders and part of the arms.

I decided to knit a capelet for myself to cover my shoulders and arms when I feel chilly - such as when I am dining in very cold restaurants, or sitting outside on our deck during the cold nights, or walking along the beach on a windy cool evening. I am sure there will be other situations/places where I can wear my capelet. If you use a very fine yarn you could knit it even as a cover over a wedding gown, and/or have capelets made for your bridesmaids over their dresses to keep them warm in a church.

The length of your capelet will depend on how much of your arms you would like to cover. My capelet reaches to elbows, but you could also alter rows between the patterns "A" and "B" and make the capelet longer or shorter. You can also decide on a different pattern that fits the number of stitches after you are finished with increases, however before you will start any pattern of your choice, you may have to add few extra (1+) stitches to accommodate the number of needed stitches for your repeats.

For my capelet I used worsted yarn and a bigger size knitting needles than recommended by the manufacturer. My yarn is Casablanka by Cascade Yarns - a blend of wool, silk and mohair. I used this yarn for my husband's sweater which he loves and wears often. You can see my husband's raglan sweater in the video as well. I had two skeins left over from my husband's sweater project and wanted to make a good use of it. Although it is a little itchy, so you may have to substitute this yarn for a different, softer yarn.

Beware: I used both 2 skeins in their entirety. If you are loose knitter you may either use 5.5 mm knitting needles, or make 1-2 row less between the patterns, or purchase one extra skein.

FOR A VIDEO CLICK HERE (it will be published 7-14-21 @ 8am EST)

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

Materials:

2 skeins of Cascade Yarns, Casablanca;
Fiber Content: 60% Wool, 25% Silk, 15% Mohair;
Color: 10, Seaside;
Weight: Medium / Worsted / Aran (4);
Weight/Yardage: 100g / 218 yards;
Care: Hand Wash, Dry Flat;
Circular Knitting Needles (or DPNs) Size: #10 (6 mm)
Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

M1R - pick a leading strand between the stitches by inserting a needle back to front and knit a stitch leaning to the right

YO - yarn over

K2tog - knit 2 stitches together

BO - bind off

Gauge (stockinette st):

4" x 4" = 16 sts x 20 rows

Measurements (measured flat):

Step-by-Step Directions:

This caplet is knitted top-down. CO 78 sts.

Row 1 *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end, join without twisting
Row 2-6 *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end

Rnd 7 *[K7, M1R]* - 10x, K8 (Note: do not increase after last 8 sts, as you already have 1 extra stitch for the repeat)

Rnd 8 K88

Rnd 9 *[K8, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 10 K99

Rnd 11 *[K9, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 12 K110
Rnd 13 K110

Rnd 14 *[K10, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 15    K121
Rnd 16    K121
Rnd 17    K121

Rnd 18 *[K11, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 19    K132
Rnd 20    K132
Rnd 21    K132

Rnd 22 K132

Rnd 23 *[K12, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 24    K143
Rnd 25    K143
Rnd 26    K143

Rnd 27 K143

Note: Keep increasing in this manner (increase in one row, knit 4 rows with no increases) until you have 187 sts on your needles (Rows 28-47). Then:

Rnd 48 *[K17, M1R]* - 11x

Rnd 49-53 K198

PATTERN "A"

Rnd 54 P198

Rnd 55 *[K2tog, YO, K4] - 33x
Rnd 56 K198
Rnd 57 P198

Rnd 58-62 K198

Rnd 63-71 Repeat your last 9 rows again (as in Rnd 54 - 62)

PATTERN "B"

Rnd 72 P198

Rnd 73 *[K2tog, YO] - to end
Rnd 74 K198
Rnd 75 P198

Rnd 76-78 K198

Rnd 79-85 Repeat your last 7 rows again (as in Rnd 72 - 78)

Rnd 86 BO with purl stitch

Weave in all the ends.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

PINK HEAVEN - GIRLS TOP DOWN SUMMER DRESS

Hello, my virtual knitting friends. Not too long ago, I received yarn from "ICE YARNS" (a yarn company in Turkey) in support of my dress design for a two-year-old girl. The yarn is called "Baby Merino." It is a combination of merino, acrylic, and polyamide yarns. The materials in this yarn make it easy to take care of the finished product. Wash it on a gentle cycle in cool water with like items and lay it flat to dry.

As the name of the yarn suggests, the company developed it for baby knits. I just adore the combination of pink-gray-white colors, and so these were the colors I picked to use for knitting this girl's dress.

I carried the dress idea in my head for a while - finally, today I finished it, which I can publish another free written pattern for you.

While knitting this dress, you need to know how to do these stitches: Knit, purl, m1R, m1L, m1P, bobble, YO, and knit below 4 stitches. No worries if you do not know how to do some of the stitches - I show my viewers how to knit these stitches in my video (for right-handed knitters and left-handed knitters also.)

If you would like to knit this dress, you will have to buy the yarn online. One way is to contact the ICE YARNS company (however, they sell their yarns in bulk), or visit THIS WEBSITE, or find your yarn via eBay, or Etsy.

Also, according to measurements, it is for a 2-year-old toddler. If you want to make it for a 3-year-old you may increase strap stitches from 30 sts to 36 sts (make it wider around the body), so instead of 36-30-36-30 stitches, you would have 36-36-36-36 sts. For a 4-year-old girl, I would increase the front, back, and strap stitches to 42-36-42-36, where 42 sts would represent the straps and 36 sts would represent the back/front parts. However, you need to use your judgment. Of course with more stitches in your body area, the number count would change accordingly.

If you'd love to knit along with me - click on either link below (depending on if you are rightie or leftie).

VIDEO "PINK HEAVEN" FOR RIGHTIES

VIDEO "PINK HEAVEN" FOR LEFTIES

SOON THERE WILL BE A CROCHET VERSION OF THIS DRESS.

ENJOY.

Material:

Yarn - ICE YARNS, Baby Merino; Colors: 2 balls of Salmon, 1 ball of White, and 1 ball of Gray; Sport (#2); 40% Merino, 40% Acrylic, 20% Polyamide; 1.76 oz/50g; 218 yds/200 m;
Knitting needles #3 (3.25 mm)
Markers
Hook 2.75 mm
Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl
M - marker

m1L - pick a leading strand between the stitches by inserting a needle front to back and knit a stitch leaning to the left
m1R - pick a leading strand between the stitches by inserting a needle back to front and knit a stitch leaning to the right

m1P - using the m1R technique (insert a needle back to front) purl the stitch instead of knitting it

B - bobble: with a knitting needle or a hook pull yarn through the stitch to the desired height of the bobble (keep it on the needle, do not drop it just yet), then YO and pull yarn through the same stitch - do this 3 times (7 loops on your needle or hook), then pull yarn through all the seven loops, and pull yarn again through the stitch you just made, then pull yarn through the stitch right below the stitch you were working your bobble in, and lastly pull the yarn through the two loops. If you used a hook, place the stitch on your working needle and continue knitting (see the video)

YO - yarn over

K4b - insert your knitting needle through your 4th stitch below the next stitch (keep it on your needle) and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle (see the video)

BO - bind off

Gauge (stockinette st):

4" x 4" = 22 sts x 30 rows

Measurements (measured flat):

Step-by-Step Directions:

This dress is knitted top-down. CO 132 sts with Salmon color yarn.

Knit with Salmon color yarn:

Row 1 P132, join into a circle

Note: if you are knitting on DPNs, distribute stitches among 4 DPNs as such: 36-30-36-30; if you are knitting on circular needles, place a marker between the above-mentioned stitches.
Rnd 2         P132
Rnd 3 *[K1, m1L, K34, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K28, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 4          K140
Rnd 5          *[K1, m1L; *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 6x; m1R, K1; M, K1, m1L;  *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 5x ; m1R, K1; M, ]* - repeat everything in square [ ] 2x

Rnd 6 K148

Rnd 7 *[P1, m1P, P38, m1P, P1; M ; P1, m1P, P32, m1P, P1; M ; ]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 8 P156

Knit with White color yarn:

Rnd 9             *[K1, m1L, K40, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K34, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 10          K164
Rnd 11          *[K1, m1L, K42, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K36, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x
Rnd 12         K172

Knit with Gray color yarn:

Rnd 13 *[K1, m1L, K44, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K38, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x

Rnd 14 P180
Rnd 15 *[P1, m1P, P46, m1P, P1; M ; P1, m1P, P40, m1P, P1; M ; ]* - repeat 2x

Rnd 16 K188
Rnd 17 *[K1, m1L, K48, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K42, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x

Rnd 18 *[K2, *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 8x; K2; M, K2, *(K3, B, K2)* - repeat sts in ( ) 7x ; K2; M, ]* - repeat everything in square [ ] 2x (196 sts)

Rnd 19 *[K1, m1L, K50, m1R, K1; M ; K1, m1L, K44, m1R, K1; M ;]* - repeat 2x (204 sts)

Rnd 20 P204
Rnd 21 BO purl-wise 54 sts, P48 (front), BO purl-wise 54 sts, P48 (back)

Start knitting with Salmon color on your front as such:

Rnd 22 *[K2, YO]* - repeat to last 2 sts, K2, cable CO 5 sts, attach front to back: *[K2, YO]* - repeat to last 2 sts, K2, cable CO 5 sts

Note: you should have 71 sts for the front, 5 sts for underarm, 71 sts for the back, 5 sts for underarm - a total of 152 sts.

Rnd 23-42 K152

Find the 36th stitch on your front part and put a marker on the 4th stitch BELOW it. You will increase into that stitch 6x as such:

Rnd 43 K33, insert your knitting needle through your marked stitch and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle, *[K1, K4b]* - repeat 5x (total 6 sts increased); K the rest of the stitches (114) to the end (total 158 sts)

Rnd 44-53 K158

Rnd 54 K36, insert your knitting needle through your marked stitch and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle, *[K1, K4b ]* - repeat 5x in the same stitch (total 6 sts increased); K the rest of the stitches (117) to the end (total 164 sts)

Rnd 55-64 K164

Rnd 65 K39, insert your knitting needle through your marked stitch and pull yarn to the height of the stitches on the needle, *[K1, K4b]* - repeat 5x (total 6 sts increased); K the rest of the stitches (120) to the end (total 170 sts)

Rnd 66 K170

Note: Increase by 4 stitches so you have multiple of 6 sts (174:6= 29 repeats)

Rnd 67 K89, m1R, K5, m1L, K71, m1R, K5, m1L (total 174 sts)
Rnd 68-117 K174 sts

Knit with Gray color yarn:

Rnd 118            K174
Rnd 119-120     P174
Rnd 121-122     K174

Rnd 123 *[K3, B, K2]* - repeat to end (29x)

Rnd 124 K1174

Rnd 125-6 P174

Knit with White color yarn:

Rnd 127-130 K174

Knit with Salmon color yarn:

Rnd 131 K174
Rnd 132-3 P174

Rnd 134-5 K174

Rnd 136 *[K3, B, K2]* - repeat to end (29x)
Rnd 137 K174

Rnd 138 P174

Rnd 139 BO purlwise all sts, weave in the ends

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

CROCHETED SEA FOAM BEACH BLOUSE AND SKIRT

I have a passion for knitting and crocheting, and thus I love to browse all different websites and marvel at all the beautiful and "yummy" yarns people spin and color. However, since I am on a budget, I tend to buy yarns when there is a good buy (sale, clearance). If the yarn has a great content (alpaca, merino, silk...) then that is an added bonus.

Italy is well known for its wonderful products - by design and by quality, so when I saw LANA GROSSA at such a great price on "Yarn website", I bought several balls. As I was looking at different colors, I was at the same time designing and knitting or crocheting in my head. I looked at the yarn and was thinking: "I could make myself a nice blouse from this color. And maybe crochet something cool from this color. I could use this color for my YouTube channel.

So today, let me present to you my crocheted blouse and skirt for the beach I designed for myself (and my virtual crochet friends). I will wear this set with a camisole and tights while having my evening walks on the beach.

This set is for a women's size medium, but you can size it very easily to any width by increasing or decreasing 8-stitch repeats. Each of my "8-stitch repeat" is 2 inches wide. Therefore, if you need let's say an increase of 6 inches, you would add 24 extra chain stitches [(6/2) x 8] to my initial chain count (the skirt - 149 sts, or the blouse - 77 sts). If you need to make the set for someone small and you need to make it let's say 2 inches narrower (blouse or skirt) you just need to deduct 8 sts from my initial chain count.

The length (of either a blouse or skirt) can be controlled by crocheting number of rows. Crochet yourselves a mini-, midi- or maxidress. Your imagination is the limit. Make it your size and your style.

Do you prefer crocheting along my videos? No problem:

VIDEO FOR RIGHTIES - CLICK HERE

VIDEO FOR LEFTIES: CLICK HERE

PLEASE BE ADVISED - IF SOMETHING IN MY WRITTEN PATTERN IS NOT RIGHT CONTACT ME VIA SOCIAL MEDIA - I DIDN'T HAVE ANYONE TO DO A "TEST DRIVE" - I MAY HAVE OVERLOOKED SOME OF MY WRITTEN NOTES - I HAVE NO TIME TO DO A VERY DETAILED CHECK UP FOR ERROR. I AM WORKING ON ANOTHER PROJECT AS THIS IS BEING PUBLISHED. THANK YOU!!!
ALSO,YOU CAN ALWAYS COMMENT UNDER THE VIDEOS (LINKS ARE ABOVE).

Material:

2 balls of Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno; color 001; 70% Cotton, 19% Merino, 11% Alpaca; 570m/150 g per ball for both garments (one ball for each) - FOR YARN REVIEW CLICK HERE
Hook 5 mm
Scissors
Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:
Women US Medium (chest 36")

Gouge:
2" = 8 sts
1.5" = 3 double crochet rows

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sc - single crochet
3dctog - 3 double crochet stitches together (decrease)
ch1sp - chain 1 space
ch3sp - chain 3 space
ch5sp - chain 5 space
fpdc - front post double crochet stitch
bpdc - back post double crochet stitch

Step-by-Step Directions:

BLOUSE - make 2 panels

Foundation: 77 chain stitches - these will produce 75 sts you will work with

3 ROW PATTERN:
Row 1 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then 1 dc in each ch to end
Row 2 ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]* - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 3 ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

4 ROW PATTERN:
Row 4 ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]* - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 5          ch2, 1 sc in ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp); *[in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in next ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp)]* - repeat 8x, then in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in last ch1sp, 1 sc in last st (total 9 "V" shaped dc sts)
Row 6         ch3, 1 dc in next st, skip ch3sp, *[7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in sc st, skip ch3sp]* - repeat 8x, finish with 7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, and 1 dc in each of last 2 sts
Row 7            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]* - to last st, 1 dc in last st

Crochet 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 8-10

5 ROW PATTERN:
Row 11 ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat total 18x, 1 dc in last st
Row 12          ch6, skip 1 st, *[3dctog, ch5, skip 1 st]* - repeat 17x, then 3dctog, ch3, skip 1 st, 1 dc in last st
Row 13          ch5, 1 sc in ch3sp, *[ch5, 1 sc in ch5sp]* - repeat 17x, ch5, 1 sc in ch2sp, ch2, 1 dc in last st
Row 14          ch4; work in each 3rd ch of ch5sp: *[3 dc, ch1]* - repeat 18x, 1 dc in last st
Row 15         ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 18x, 1 dc in last st

Repeat Rows 1-15 one more time (Row 16-30)

Continue to Crochet

3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 31-33
and then 4 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 4-7 above) = Rows 34-37

Row 36 ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

Shoulder Part

Row 37 ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]* - 9x, 1 dc in last st, turn
Row 38 ch3, 1 dc in each st to end

Repeat Row 37 & 38 on the other side of the shoulder.

Finishing:
Either sew back a front shoulders together, or connnect them togheter with a cable joint (see my video for that joint - link for right handed crocheters and for left handed crocheters is above). Weave in the ends. Crochet long strings (use 2 strands of yarn) - one for your waist and 2 for your tie of the blouse sides - and then attach to each end a tassel (total 6 tassels).

My waist string is aprox. 56" long. My sting for each side of my blouse is aprox. 22" long.

SKIRT

Foundation: 149 chain stitches - these will produce 147 sts

4 ROW PATTERN:
Row 4 ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]* - to last st, 1 dc in last st
Row 5          ch2, 1 sc in ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp); *[in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in next ch1sp, ch3, skip 3 sts (including ch1sp)]* - repeat 17x, then in next ch1sp: (1dc, ch1, 1dc), ch3, then skip 3 sts (including ch1sp), 1 sc in last ch1sp, 1 sc in last st (total 18 "V" shaped dc sts)
Row 6         ch3, 1 dc in next st, skip ch3sp, *[7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in sc st, skip ch3sp]* - repeat 17x, finish with 7 dc in ch1sp, skip ch3sp, 1 dc in each of last 2 sts
Row 7            ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts]* - to last st, 1 dc in last st

Crochet 3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 8-10

5 ROW PATTERN:
Row 11 ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st
Row 12          ch6, skip 1 st, *[3dctog, ch5, skip 1 st]* - repeat 35x, then 3dctog, ch3, skip 1 st, 1 dc in last st
Row 13          ch5, 1 sc in ch3sp, *[ch5, 1 sc in ch5sp]* - repeat 35x, ch5, 1 sc in ch2sp, ch2, 1 dc in last st
Row 14          ch4; work in each 3rd ch of ch5sp: *[3 dc, ch1]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st
Row 15         ch4, skip 1 st, *[1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch1, skip 1 st]* - repeat 36x, 1 dc in last st

Repeat Rows 1-15 one more time (Row 16-30)

Continue to Crochet

3 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 1-3 above) = Rows 31-33
and then 4 ROW PATTERN (see Rows 4-7 above) = Rows 34-37

Row 35 ch3, 1 dc in each st to end
Row 36 ch3, *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - repeat to end, last st will be 1 dc

Repeat Row 36 as many times as needed (front post dc stitches into fpdc, and back post dc stitches into bpdc) for your waistband.

Finishing:

Row 1 Crochet along the side as many single crochet stitches as needed (I usually crochet 2 sc sts into each of dc or ch3, and 1 sc into sc)
Row 2 ch1, *[skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st]* - repeat to end, finish with sl st in the last st (you may skip an extra stitch or two at the end to fit your last shell or two sts well)

Lastly, make 2 tassels, then crochet a long string (crochet a long chain from doubled or tripled strands), attach the first tassel to one end, weave the other end through the waistband, then attach the second tassel. Weave in all the ends and wear your beutiful garment.

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Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product made by you, BUT you HAVE TO GIVE me a credit.

Thank you.

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DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

HAND MADE - RUKODELKY

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