PASTEL STRIPES - Socks US Size 5/6

Finding well-fitting socks for small feet (in this case for shoe sizes 5/6) can be a struggle in store-bought options. Hand-knitted socks can ensure a perfect fit that hugs small feet comfortably without excess bulk. 

With less surface area to knit, socks for size 5 feet knit up quicker than larger sizes (see another pattern for socks size 11). This translates to less knitting time for you, which means you can gift your creation sooner or whip up a pair on short notice for a birthday or special occasion.
A smaller project allows you to experiment with luxurious yarns you might hesitate to use for a larger project. Making socks for smaller feet can be very rewarding. Also, quality sock yarn guarantees wonderfully breathable socks.

Tips for Knitting Socks for Size 5 Feet:

• Choose the Right Needles: Since you'll be working with sock yarn, you'll need needles appropriate for the yarn weight you select. Double-pointed needles (DPNs) are the most common choice for sock knitting, so look for sizes in the 2.25mm (US 1) to 2.75mm (US 2) range. With thicker yarn, you may need the 3.25mm knitting needles.

• Check Your Gauge: It's even more important to swatch (knit a small sample) for gauge when knitting for a small size. This ensures you achieve the correct stitch definition and fit for the recipient's foot. If you knit tight, choose needles in a bigger size, and if you are a loose knitter, choose a smaller size.

• Pattern Selection: Many sock knitting patterns are sized for a range of foot circumferences. Look for patterns that include a size small or a child's size, and follow the stitch counts for the appropriate size. Or follow my pattern below. 

For my project, I used a sock yarn from my stash. It is a self-striping yarn, so I opted for a simple pattern. Unfortunately, this sock yarn has been discontinued, but I am sure you can find yarn of similar quality that has a beautiful color. Here is a website that can be very helpful with your substitution.

Materials Used: 

Sock Yarn - Cascade Yarns, Sassy Stripes; 218 yards (199 m); 50 gr (1.76 oz); 75% Superwash Merino wool, 25% Nylon/Polyamide (discontinued)
Knitting Needles - 2.75 mm (DPNs or Circular)
Yarn Needle For Kitchener Stitch
Scissors

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

• on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 8 sts x 11 rows

Size:

• Shoe size: ~ US size 6
• Ankle Area: ~ 6-7” circumference
• Ribbing Height: 6.5”
• Sole width: 3.5” (circumference is ~ 7”)
• Length of the sole: 8” 

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively

Pattern:

Knit in the round.

Rnd 1-4         *[P4, K4]* - 3x, P4
Rnd 5-8         K28

Rnd 9-12       *[K4, P4]* - 3x, P4
Rnd 13-16     K28

Step-by-Step Directions:

We will work in sections (the cuff, the flap, the turning heel, the gusset, the foot, the toe part), and each of these sections will start with Row 1.

Make 2 identical socks.

The Cuff

Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 58 stitches

Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to the end of the row, then distribute the stitches among 4 DPNs (15-15-14-14), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle, and start knitting in the round. If you use circular needles, divide your stitches into 2 parts (30-28); with long circulars use a magic loop.

Rnd 2-?      *[K1, P1]* - to the end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff about 7.5"tall (about 70 rows)


The Heel Flap

If knitting on DPNs, divide your stitches as such: needle #1 - 30 sts (heel), needles #2 and #3 - 14 sts each (instep).

Work on your first 30 sts only, back and forth (NOT in the round)

Row 1-20            *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end, turn

I knitted a total of 20 rows.

Turning The Heel (row by row)

Keep working your sock back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.

Row 1         (RS) sl. 1st st, K15, SSK, K1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2         (WS) sl. 1st st, P3, P2tog, P1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 3         (RS) sl. 1st st, K4, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4         (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5         (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6         (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7         (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8         (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9         (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10       (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11       (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12       (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 13       (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK (0 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 14       (WS) sl. 1st st, P14, P2tog (0 sts left on the needle), turn

The Gusset 

Note: From now on, you will work on RS only, in the round. 

You will proceed as such:

• first, knit 16 sts (the "turning the heel stitches")
• turn your sock sideways and pick up 12 stitches along the first side - I added extra stitches because I didn't want to end up with a big space between the needles, so distribute these 12 sts evenly; 
• then K28
• pick up another 12 sts along the other side of the flap (same as the first side) - you should have 68 stitches on your needles, distributed as such: N1 (the BEGINNING of the row) - 16 sts (from turning the heel); N2 - 12 sts (= first side of the flap); N3 - 28 sts (top of the foot/instep and the pattern part); N4 - 12 sts (= second side of the flap)
  
  

Note: If you knit on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you use circular needles insert markers between the 16-12-28-12 sts to keep track of your work. You also need to pay attention to your pattern on the instep needle (N3)

Rnd 1            (N1) K16; (N2) K10, K2tog;  (N3) Pattern Row 1; (N4) SSK, K10 (66 sts)
Rnd 2            (N1) K16; (N2) K11; (N3) Pattern Row 2; (N4) K11 (66 sts)
Rnd 3            (N1) K16; (N2) K9, K2tog;(N3) Pattern Row 3; (N4) SSK, K9 (64 sts)
Rnd 4            (N1) K16; (N2) K10; (N3) Pattern Row 4; (N4) K10 (64 sts)

Rnd 5            (N1) K16; (N2) K8, K2tog; (N3) Pattern Row 5; (N4) SSK, K8 (62 sts)
Rnd 6            (N1) K16; (N2) K9; (N3) Pattern Row 6; (N4) K9 (62 sts)
Rnd 7            (N1) K16; (N2) K7, K2tog; (N3) Pattern Row 7; (N4) SSK, K7 (60 sts)
Rnd 8            (N1) K16; (N2) K8; (N3) Pattern Row 8; (N4) K8 (60 sts)

Rnd 9            (N1) K16; (N2) K6, K2tog; (N3) Pattern Row 9; (N4) SSK, K6 (58 sts)

The Foot Part

Rnd 10          (N1) K16; (N2) K7; (N3) Pattern Row 10; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 11          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 11; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 12          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 12; (N4) K7 (58 sts)

Rnd 13          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 13; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 14          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 14; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 15          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 15; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 16          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 16; (N4) K7 (58 sts)

Knit Rnd 17-32 below two times (Rnd 17-48)

Rnd 17          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 1; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 18          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 2; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 19          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 3; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 20          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 4; (N4) K7 (58 sts)

Rnd 21          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 5; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 22          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 6; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 23          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 7; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 24          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 8; (N4) K7 (58 sts)

Rnd 25          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 9; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 26          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 10; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 27          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 11;(N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 28          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 12; (N4) K7 (58 sts)

Rnd 29          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 13; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 30          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 14; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 31          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 15; (N4) K7 (58 sts)
Rnd 32          (N1) K16; (N2) K7;  (N3) Pattern Row 16; (N4) K7 (58 sts)

Then knit Rnd 17-24 again, before decreasing for the toes. Total 56 rows for the foot part.

The Toe Part

Rnd 1               K2, K2tog, K22, SSK, K2, K28 (56 sts)
Rnd 2               K56
Rnd 3               *[K2, K2tog, K20, SSK, K2]* - 2x (52 sts)
Rnd 4                K52
Rnd 5               *[K2, K2tog, K18, SSK, K2]* - 2x (48 sts)
Rnd 6                K48
Rnd 7               *[K2, K2tog, K16, SSK, K2]* - 2x (44 sts)
Rnd 8               K44
Rnd 9               *[K2, K2tog, K14, SSK, K2]* - 2x (40 sts)
Rnd 10             *[K2, K2tog, K12, SSK, K2]* - 2x (36 sts)
Rnd 11             *[K2, K2tog, K10, SSK, K2]* - 2x (32 sts)
Rnd 12             *[K2, K2tog, K8, SSK, K2]* - 2x (28 sts)
Rnd 13             *[K2, K2tog, K6, SSK, K2]* - 2x (24 sts)

To Finish Each Sock:

Move the first 12 sts onto one DPN, then move the last 12 sts onto another DPN, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. 

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

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CROCHETED SIMPLE BUCKET HAT FROM RAFFIA

I would like to share a free pattern for my bucket hat from Raffia I made this summer. Raffia is a material, that is a little difficult to deal with, but if you take it in small steps, you could persevere in a few days.

Crocheting (or knitting) a bucket hat (or actually any hat) is a creative endeavor that allows you to express yourself, develop new skills, and enjoy the process of making something uniquely fashionable. What do you get out of it?

    1. Customization: Crocheting a bucket hat allows you to make a unique gift. You can choose your favorite colors, patterns, and yarn materials to design a hat that perfectly matches your or someone else's taste. 

    2. Handmade and Personal Touch: Making a bucket hat can be a thoughtful gift for someone special or a way to express your creativity and individuality. 

    3. Skill Development: Crocheting a bucket hat enhances your crocheting skills. You can learn new stitches, techniques, and patterns while working on the project, improving your abilities and expanding your repertoire of crochet skills. 

    4. Practicality and Versatility: Bucket hats are practical. They provide sun protection for your face and neck, making them suitable for outdoor activities such as gardening, beach outings, or picnics. Your imagination can offer a unique and stylish twist to this functional accessory.

    5. Relaxation and Mindfulness: Crocheting is known for its therapeutic benefits. It can help reduce stress, promote relaxation, and increase mindfulness. The repetitive motions and focus required in crocheting can be soothing, allowing you to unwind and enjoy the process.

    6. Cost-Effective: Crocheting your bucket hat can be a cost-effective alternative to buying one. Yarn and crochet hooks can be inexpensive, and you can create multiple hats from a single skein of yarn. You have the added self-satisfaction of making a unique gift using your hands.

    7. Connection and Community: People enjoy crocheting as a hobby. By joining crochet communities, online forums, or local knitting and crocheting groups, you can connect with fellow crafters, share your projects, and learn from others' experiences. 

Materials used:

2 cones of raffia, one in pink and one in black, which I purchased via AMAZON (by clicking on the link and purchasing Raffia, I will get a few pennies, which will support more of your free patterns.)

Abbreviations:

MC - main color (black)

CC - complimentary color (pink)

sc - single crochet stitch

st(s) - stitch(es)

incr - increase by crocheting 2 sc stitches in the same stitch

How To Measure For The Hat:

Measurements:

I usually make my hat a little smaller in diameter because it stretches. I did the same with Raffia material. So for example a head that has a circumference of 21 inches I would use 19 or 20 inches to calculate my diameter. Here I used 19".

Diameter of the top part: 6"

Height: 3.5"

Note: the total hat height is 6.5" without the brim

Brim width: 3" (but you can make the width any size you would like by decreasing or increasing rows)

TOP OF THE HAT

Use CC raffia 

Rnd 1            Into magic ring make 7 sc; (7) 

Note: place a marker (I use a string of yarn) between the first and last st and continue in the spiral way to keep track of the row beginning.

Rnd 2            incr (= 2 sc) in each st to end; (14)

Rnd 3            *[1 sc, incr]* - 7x; (21)

Rnd 4            *[1 sc in next 2 sts, incr]* - 7x; (28)

Rnd 5            *[1 sc in next 3 sts, incr]* - 7x; (35)

Rnd 6            *[1 sc in next 4 sts, incr]* - 7x; (42)

Rnd 7            *[1 sc in next 5 sts, incr]* - 7x; (49)

Rnd 8            *[1 sc in next 6 sts, incr]* - 7x; (56)

Rnd 9            *[1 sc in next 7 sts, incr]* - 7x; (63)

Rnd 10          *[1 sc in next 8 sts, incr]* - 7x; (70)

Rnd 11          *[1 sc in next 9 sts, incr]* - 7x; (77)

Rnd 12          *[1 sc in next 10 sts, incr]* - 7x; (84)

BODY OF THE HAT

Change the color - use MC raffia.

Rnd 13-?          1 sc in each st to end; (84)

Crochet as many rows as you need to achieve the height of your hat. I crocheted 15 rows (Rnds 13-27), which reached the top of my eyebrows. I could have done just 13 rows.

BRIM OF THE HAT

Continue with MC of your raffia.

Rnd 28          *[1 sc in next 11 sts, incr]* - 7x; (91)

Rnd 29          *[1 sc in next 12 sts, incr]* - 7x; (98)

Rnd 30          *[1 sc in next 13 sts, incr]* - 7x; (105)

Rnd 31          *[1 sc in next 14 sts, incr]* - 7x; (112)

Rnd 32          *[1 sc in next 15 sts, incr]* - 7x; (119)

Rnd 33          *[1 sc in next 16 sts, incr]* - 7x; (126)

Rnd 34          *[1 sc in next 17 sts, incr]* - 7x; (133)

Rnd 35          *[1 sc in next 18 sts, incr]* - 7x; (140)

Rnd 36          *[1 sc in next 19 sts, incr]* - 7x; (147)

Rnd 37          *[1 sc in next 20 sts, incr]* - 7x; (154)

FINISH

Rnd 38            Crochet one row without any increases in CC of your raffia.

When you are finished, weave your ends into the stitches. You can sew a ribbon on the inside. You could decorate your hat per your desire. 

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

CROCHETED WOOL BOOTS WITH RUBBER SOLES

I crocheted boots before, but never a pair with rubber soles. And let me tell you, this was a challenge. I had to pull a thick yarn through a very tight cotton string base on the rubber soles. 

I started first with a yarn needle. That didn't work, so II switched to a 1.65 mm stainless steel hook. That worked, but I destroyed it after working on my first boot. I tossed it and went rummaging into my hook box. I found another stainless steel hook, this time a 2 mm one. This hook worked out fine, but it was harder to push it through and then pull it out with the yarn. I worked slowly to distribute all slip stitches (my base) evenly. I pulled 51 slip stitches on my first boot but 52 on my second. I solved my problem by crocheting two single crochet stitches together in the second row in order to have both my boots sized identically.

When I was attaching the top part (instep), I made sure I achieved the same number of stitches for both ankles. Each boot took me one day to finish. I think these boots would make a great gift. 

You may not be able to find the same yarn (I bought it a while ago) - I pulled it out of my considerable stash. I would suggest using any ribbon type of yarn because my yarn is in a shape of a ribbon.

ALSO:

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra and I will get a tiny portion of the sale. 💛

Material:

• 7+ balls (depending on the size of the shoe) of ARTFUL YARNS, Palace, Super Bulky Weight; 48% wool,45% acrylic, 7% nylon; 50g; approx. 27 yards. OR any ribbon-like yarn.
• Hooks: 2 mm stainless steel (for the foundation around the rubber sole's perimeter) and 6 mm to crochet the boot
• Rubber soles (I bought mine from Etsy, which was shipped to me from Spain)
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:
Women's shoe EU 35 (US size 5; 22 cm foot length)

Height of the boot - 7"

Circumference at the top of the boot 11"

However, you can adjust your rows to different sizes and heights of your boots.

Gouge:
2" = 8 sts
1.5" = 3 double crochet rows

Abbreviations:
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
2 sctog - two single crochet together
st, sts - stitch, stitches
prev - previous

Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2 of each: Sole Inserts, Instep Pieces, and Boots.

SOLE INSERTS - Make 2 identical, but use one on the right side and the other on wrong side. 

I used my sole as a template for my increases and decreases

I made my sole inserts a little bigger than the rubber soles so I could connect them together with the first row while crocheting the boot.
I used my rubber soles as my template in order to crochet the shape of the sole, which means I increased or decreased according to the shape, checking in each row. In order to make an identical sole I penned down all my rows - this is how I proceeded:

Foundation - ch5

Row 1                 (RS) insert hook into 2nd ch from hook - make 1 sc, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (total 4 sc), turn
Row 2                 (WS) 2 sc in first st, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (5 sc), turn
Row 3                 2 sc in first st, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (6 sc), turn
Row 4                 1 sc in each of 3 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 2 stitches, turn
Row 5                 1 sc in each of 3 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches  (8 sc), turn
Row 6                 1 sc in each of 4 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches  (9 sc), turn
Row 7-9              1 sc in each of 9 stitches (9 sc), turn
Row 10               1 sc in each of 4 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (8 sc), turn
Row 11               1 sc in each of 8 stitches (8 sc), turn
Row 12               1 sc in each of 3 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (7 sc), turn
Row 13-19          1 sc in each of 7 stitches (7 sc), turn
Row 20               1 sc in each of 2 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (6 sc), turn
Row 21-22          1 sc in each of 6 stitches (6 sc), turn
Row 23               *[1 sc, next 2 sctog]* - 2x,  (4 sc),  fasten off

INSTEP - TOP OF THE BOOT

The bottom piece is my INSTEP piece (top of the boot)

Foundation - ch5

Row 1                1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch st to end, turn (total 4 sts)
Row 2                2 sc into 1st st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into last st to, turn (6 sts)
Row 3                1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, turn (6 sts)
Row 4                2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn (8 sts)
Row 5-8            1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, turn (8 sts)
Row 9                1 sc into in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, turn (9 sts)
Row 10              1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, turn (9 sts)
Row 11              1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, turn (10 sts)
Row 12              1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, turn (10 sts)

Fasten off your yarn

BOOT

Note: My starting point was at the back (heel) of the rubber sole.

Prep your rubber sole by crocheting slip stitches around the entire perimeter of the sole. For this hard job I used a 1.65 mm hook, which I inserted under each thread (on the side of the rubber sole) and pulled a loop big enough to make a slip stitch, I skipped the next thread, and then I made another slip stitch. I continued this way around, which means each time I skipped one thread and made a slip stitch in the next one.

I was able to make 51 stitches slip stitches around. Place your SOLE INSERT inside the rubber sole - you will crochet both together. Make sure the SOLE INSERT is placed correctly

    The Foot Area

Rnd 1                1 hdc into each slip st and to the side of the crocheted SOLE INSERT (to end)
                          Note: don't use slip st, just continue crocheting in a spiral pattern

This is how finished Rnd 1 looks like

Rnd 2                1 sc into each hdc (to end)
Rnd 3                1 sc into each sc from prev row (to end)

Place the INSTEP (see above) over the front part of the shoe and pin it so it doesn't shift. Make sure it is not crooked. Make sure that you will place the second INSTEP on the other boot exactly the same way.

Instep before & after crocheted together with the boot

Rnd 4                1 sc into each sc from prev row until you reach the INSTEP part, then crochet around 1 sc into sc and the side of the crocheted INSTEP, then continue with 1 sc into each sc from prev row to last st before the row ends

    The Ankle Area

Rnd 5                Decrease by crocheting the last sc and 1st sc stitches together (= 2 sctog), then 1 sc into each stitch until you have one stitch before the INSTEP part (corner),  decrease again by crocheting last sc st on the side and the first sc Instep stitch together, then crochet across to last Instep sc st and decrease in that corner again with 2 sctog, finish the row with 1 sc into each sc from prev row (to end)

The green arrows represent the ankle ("tube") part,
the yellow arrows point to the 2 sctog in Rnd 5

Rnd 6-11           1 sc into each sc from prev row (I ended up with 26 ankle stitches)
Rnd 12              2 sc in first st, then 1 sc into each sc from prev row (27 sts)
Rnd 13              1 sc into each sc from prev row  (27 sts)
Rnd 14              2 sc in first st, then 1 sc into each sc from prev row (28 sts)
Rnd 15-17        1 sc into each sc from prev row (28 sts)
Rnd 18             1 sc into each sc from prev row until 5 sts from end, then do 1 sl st into each sc from prev row, fasten off (23 sts + 5 sl sts), weave in all tails

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

COTTON CANDY ELF BABY HAT

In 2015  I visited one small town in New York State. Since I am an artist and an avid knitter and a crocheter I obviously had to stop at a local yarn store. OMG. This lady owner supplies her knitting community with the most gorgeous selection of yarns from many artisan spinners. Most of her yarns are VERY expensive, but these yarns are a pure art form. I wanted to take a thousand dollars and spent it there. Unfortunately, I could not do it. I have a budget and that is just it. So I settled for ONE skein of the most beautiful "pinkiest" and softest yarn I saw in the store. In my mind, I saw a beautiful princess in a beautiful hat! And so did my husband. If I would be younger I would try to have another baby just because of this softest skein of yarn. But... I just bought the yarn. Actually, my husband made me buy it. 

And I decided to write a pattern for this hat as I knit. Just a simple, plushy, soft, gorgeous, pointy elf hat. For a little princess.

This yarn is thick and thin. Very textured. And gorgeously pink. I am sure the computer image will not do justice to the color of my fluffy yarn.

I decided to use 9mm knitting needles and knit a simple pointy hat on DPNs. As I am knitting (and writing this post) I already LOVE how the hat is turning out (and I am wishing I would have a 6-12 month-old baby). So, here is the pattern:

September 2022 update: Yippie,  I have someone to gift this hat to. I decided to make a short "show and tell" video to share with you - you can CLICK HERE (coming soon).

ALSO:

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra.


MATERIALS:

• A Very Bulky Thick and Thin Yarn (any comparable very bulky yarn you can find and love)
• Knitting Needles #13 (9mm)
• Scissors
• Yarn needle

SIZE:

Step-by-Step:

CO 36 sts and distribute sts evenly among 3 DPNs

Row 1-16          K36
Row 17             *[K4, k2tog]* - 6x
Row 18-21        K30
Row 22             *[K3, k2tog]* - 6x
Row 23-27        K24
Row 28             *[K2, k2tog]* - 6x
Row 29-34        K18
Row 35             *[K1, k2tog]* - 6x
Row 36-42       K12
Row 43             *[k2tog]* - 6x
Row 44-51       K6
Row 52             *[k2tog]* - 3x
Row 53-60       K3

BO by pulling yarn through all 3 stitches. Make ch2. Attach a pom-pom. Sell the hat. Or give it away.

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any item) made by you. Credit me, please.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

KNITTED SLEEVELESS LACE BLOUSE - Size Medium

I find myself often looking at all different yarns, thick and thin, colorful or natural, single color, hand painted. I find the artistry behind yarn-making fascinating. I also love variegated yarns - the ones that appeal to my eye and style.

About half a year ago I was scrolling through some websites with yarns and came across Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno. There were several very pretty variegated balls on display. So I bought 4 different skeins. Among them, I added to my cart one that was semi-neutral, in a sage/gray color.

Unfortunately, this yarn is now discontinued (what else is new), but you may still find it somewhere on the world wide web. 

If it is out of your reach, you could substitute this yarn with another one - but make sure it is #2 weight (sock yarn thickness). You could use THIS link to find a similar yarn. Or see THIS sparkly yarn from Amazon (an affiliate link).

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra.

Material:

• Approximately 200g of Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno; color 003; 70% Cotton, 19% Merino, 11% Alpaca; 570m/150 g per ball
• DPNs, Circulars Knitting Needles, Long Knitting Needles - US size #5 (3.75 mm)
• Hook 3.75 mm 
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:

• Women US Medium

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

• on US knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 6 sts x 8 rows

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
m1 - increase by making one stitch (I used m1R; you could also increase by knitting below your next stitch)
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
K2tog - knit two stitches together
M - stitch marker
eM - edge marker
bobble = 2hdc bobble - with crochet hook pull a loose loop through the next stitch, YO, pull a 2nd loop, YO, pull a 3rd loop (5 loops on the hook), pull yarn through all 5 loops; bring the hook behind your bobble and pick up the stitch just below the bobble and pull this stitch through the stitch on the hook; lastly, transfer the stitch from the hook onto the working needle
CDD - slip the next two stitches from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to knit; knit the next stitch; insert the left knitting needle into the two slipped stitches and pull them over the knitted stitch
KTBL - knit through the back loop
SLS - slip last stitch purl-wise with yarn in front
m1R - make one right (increase)
m1L - make one left (increase)
CCO - cable cast-on
RS - right side
WS - wrong side

NOTE:
While knitting this blouse I used 3 types of knitting needles - long needles, DPNs, and circular needles, each time switching to the best type to knit with.

Step-by-Step Directions:

SECTION #1

Foundation: to start knitting yoke cast on 112 stitches

Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, join needles into a circle
Rnd 2-6       *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row
Rnd 7          *[K7, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 8-9       K128
Rnd 10        *[K8, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 11-12    K144
Rnd 13        *[K9, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 14-16   K160
Rnd 17        *[K10, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 176 sts

SECTION #2 - PATTERN PART

Work the "8 stitch/10 rows" pattern (the bobble could be substituted with K1 instead):

Rnd 1        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 2        K176
Rnd 3        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 4        K176
Rnd 5        *[YO, SSK, K1, bobble, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 6        K176
Rnd 7        *[K1, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, M]* - 22x
Rnd 8        K176
Rnd 9        *[K2, YO, CDD, YO, K3, M]* - 22x
Rnd 10       K176; remove your markers

SECTION #3

Continue working the yoke; start counting from 1

Rnd 1        *[K11, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 192 sts
Rnd 2-4     K192
Rnd 5        *[K12, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 208 sts
Rnd 6-7     K208

SECTION #4

At this point organize your stitches by placing markers as such:

Rnd 8        (back part) K10, eM, K44, eM, K10, M; (first sleeve) K43, M; (front part) K10, eM, K38, eM, K10, M; (the second sleeve) K43, M (end of the row)

Rnd 9      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K38, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

Rnd 10      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K16, increase in each of next 6 sts as such: *[K1, YO, K1]*, K16, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M (total 220 sts)

Rnd 11-13  (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

In the next row bind off your sleeves, and place your front part on the holder (a thick string of yarn); when finished with your 14th round start working on your back part

Rnd 14       (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x; BO 43 sleeve sts; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; BO 43 sleeve sts; do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BACK PART

Keep working back and forth - odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side, start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K44, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (64 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 44, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K44, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (66 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K46, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K46, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (68 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K48, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K48, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 90 sts total. Fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - FRONT PART

Work back and forth just like you worked "the back part" starting on the right side (odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side), and start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K52, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K52, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (74 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K54, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K54, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (76 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K56, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K56, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (78 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P58, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 96 sts total. Do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BODY

From now on work in the round on the right side, and start counting from 1

Rnd 1       (front part) KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K76, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS and to join the back part: *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, m1R, K70, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS; join your knit to work in the round (204 sts)

Rnd 2-6     (front part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K78, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (back part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K72, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x;  (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (204 sts)

Rnd 7-?     K204 (remove all eMs) - after you knit your desired length, finish your blouse with a few rows of *[K1, P1]* edging, and then weave in all your ends.

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any item) made by you. Credit me, please.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!

Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************

Copyright page - click HERE

PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

TANGERINE TOP

ENJOY MY LATEST PROJECT - AN AIRY TOP (BLOUSE OR SWEATER) KNITTED FROM A LACY FUZZY YARN WITH LARGER-SIZED KNITTING NEEDLES, WITH 3D SLEEVES.

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.

Material:

• Yarn - DIABLO; Colors: 4 balls of Yellow Ochre (#18); Lace (#1); 30% Mohair, 30% Nylon, 40% Acrylic; 0.9 oz/25g; 246 yds/225 m; 
• Knitting needles #9 (5.5 mm)
• Markers
• Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
• Scissors

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on

K - knit
P - purl

st/sts - stitch/stitches
K2tog - knit two stitches together (decrease)
SSK - slip 2 stitches (one at a time), place them back on the needle and knit them through the back loop (decrease)

CO extra st - cast on an extra stitch between short rows to close the hole

PM - place marker

K1B - increase by knitting 1 stitch below the next stitch (then knit next st)

YO - yarn over

BO - bind off

Gauge (stockinette st):

4" x 4" = 16 sts x 22 rows

Size:

Oversized small, or regular medium women's size

Measurements (measured flat): 

Step-by-Step Directions:

This blouse is knitted from bottom to top. 

BODY PART

CO 140 sts. Knit in the round.

Row 1-12             *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end of row (70x)

Row 13-80            K140

Divide 140 stitches into 2 halves - 70 sts for your back, and 70 sts for the front. Knit back and forth. Work your back first, then the front. 

BACK PART OF THE BODY

Row 81               K68

Row 82               P66, put the first 2 sts and last 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, they will be part of the sleeves
Row 83               K66

Row 84               P66

Repeat Rows 83 & 84 thirteen more times, up to Row 110.

Row 111              BO 7 sts, K to end

Row 112              BO 7 sts, P to end

Repeat Rows 111 & 112 two more times, up to Row 116.

Row 117              K24
Row 118              P24

FRONT PART OF THE BODY

Row 81               put the first 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, start the new ball, and K66; put the last 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, they will be part of the sleeves

Row 82               P66
Row 83               K66

Row 84               P66

Repeat Rows 83 & 84 nine more times, up to Row 102.

We will make a "U" shaped neck area, and then BO for the shoulders. Start on the first side of the front on the RIGHT (KNIT) side.

FIRST HALF OF THE UPPER FRONT

Row 103              K28, do not work with the last 38 sts on the needle (you may put them on the stitch holder)

Row 104              P28

Row 105              K25, three stitches left on the needle

Row 106              P25

Row 107              K23, three + two stitches left on the needle

Row 108              P23

Row 109              K21, three + two + two stitches left on the needle

Row 110              P21

Row 111              K21

Row 112              P21

Row 113              BO 7 sts, K13

Row 114              P14

Row 115              BO 7 sts, K6

Row 116              P7

Row 117              BO 7 sts, leave a long tail for sewing the shoulder area together

SECOND HALF OF THE UPPER FRONT

Start on the second side of the front on the RIGHT (KNIT) side; from the middle.

Row 103              Leave the first 10 sts on the stitch holder, then K28 to end

Row 104              P25, three stitches left on the needle

Row 105              K25

Row 106              P23, three + two stitches left on the needle (total 5 sts)

Row 107              K23

Row 108              P21, three + two + two stitches left on the needle  (total 7 sts)

Row 109              K21

Row 110              P21

Row 111              K21

Row 112              BO 7 sts, P13

Row 113              K14

Row 114              BO 7 sts, P6

Row 115              K 7

Row 116              BO 7 sts, do not fasten off the yarn, use it for knitting the edge

Sew the front and back shoulder areas together (on both sides). Knit a neckband/edge in the round as such:

Row 1                  Starting at your back part and on the RIGHT side of the knit, K24; CO 8 sts along straight side; K2; CO extra st; K2; CO extra st; K3; CO extra st; K10; CO extra st; K3;  CO extra st; K2;  CO extra st; K2; CO 8 sts along straight side; (total 70 sts = 24+8+2+1+2+1+3+1+10+1+3+1+2+1+2+8)
Row 2-6               *[K1, P1]* - to end (35x)
Row 7                   BO

SLEEVES - make two

Start in the underarm area. 

Row 1                    CO 24 stitches along the front (or back) arm area, then CO 24 stitches along the back (or front) area, and K4 (stitchers that are on your stitch holder) - make sure there are no holes between the CO stitches and 4 underarm stitches, PM

Row 2                    K2tog, K44, SSK, K4 (50 sts total)

Row 3-10               *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Row 11                   *[K1; then increase by K1B & K1 regularly - 5x; K1, P3]* - 5x (total 75 sts)

Row 12-19             *[K12, P3]* - 5x (total 75 sts)
Row 20                  *[K1; then decrease by K2tog - 5x; K1, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)
Row 21-30             *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Repeat Rows 11-30 three more times (90 rows more)

Finish with 10 more rows (or as many as you need)

Row 121-130        *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Row 131                BO all sts

When you knit both sleeves, weave in all the ends. 

Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (sweater/blouse/top) made by you.

Thank you.

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Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.